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but yet i still get garbage mileage.....any ideas guys?? the guy at the dealership said that during the winter time i should see a drop to about 450km to the tank
i laughed! i cant even break 350 with warm weather
i dont know what else to do guys
Even a car rated at 30-40 mpg will get poor mileage if you are, for example, only driving 2-3 miles at a time, expecially in the winter. I think my kid got as low as 15 mpg in an old Nissan Sentra...for which new adjusted EPA rating is 23/33. This was beacuse he was driving 3 miles to school and 2 miles to work in winter.
For the Jetta III ('99 could be either III or IV, I believe), CR measured 17 mpg in their city test back in Nov. 1994. So if your driving is similar to their test and you put in about 13 gal when you fill it back up, 350 km could happen. What did you drive before and what mpg did you get for this same type of driving?
Sure it can, if the problem was caused by hitting something. For example, if you are in a collision and you need a new engine as a result that would be covered by insurance.
You could just report the truth to insurance company, that you do not recall hitting anything, but VW tech is saying there is damage from hitting something and let the insurance company and VW sort it out from there. If you have a low deductible that would probably be the easiest route.
i've owned the car for about a year now, i bought it used and have been having this problem ever since, i DO do alot of city driving, i drive to and from work and its not that far of a distance and bomb around with friends. i just filled up right now and my trip meter was at about 320km that was with some hwy, some city, but mostly city, its hard for me to judge now, cause there are, like you said, alot of varibles to consider, alot more now i think then when i was driving in the summer time (using the heat, defroster, revving the engine if i get stuck in a pile of snow, colder weather etc.)
the guy at the dealership said that i should easily break more then 400 in this type of weather....
Even if it does, it would likely not be all that much, since the full premium for the comprehensive is pretty small to begin with.
But of course, the better option would be to get it fixed for free under the warranty.
It may be difficult to know if your result is accurate based on such a short drive. If you go 60 miles, lets assume you actually use 2 gallons. If you are potentially off by even a quart when you refill, this would mean instead of 2 gallons your refill could show 1.75 to 2.25 gallons...resulting in a calculation of anywhere from 27-34 mpg, when actual was 30 mpg.
Thanks for your input... a concerned mom... cj
Some say that you can flush all the old coolant out and then put the cheap stuff in. If it were me, I would not go that route for 2 reasons...how can you be sure all the G12 is really out? and why would I want to switch to an inferior product?
Again, thanks. cj
Is it worth it? I don't think I could get as much in a used car for the money it costs to fix it. Does this seem too expensive?
$2K seems excessive, to me, for a clutch. It would seem if you are driving the same, you should be needing that again. If so, I'd look for a better price.
If Edmunds is to be believed, your car is likely worth more that the current repair cost of $3-5K, unless it is in poor condition.
If you wanted to save some money, you might see if you can get a used engine installed. Another option would be a rebuilt engine...no idea what that cost would be for your car. I once checked on this for a completely different vehicle and engine and rebuilt cost was just under $3K from a local operation that specializes in that sort of thing...that came with 3 year warranty (12 months on seals/gaskets).
1)Model year
2)manual/Automatic xmission
The older models had a lower-milage replacement interval and the newer models had a modified TB and associated pullies which allowed for longer duration between changes. ALWAYS READ THE OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR SPECIFIC VOLKSWAGEN.
Here's some more background on the timing belt issue:
A breaking timing belt is usually the final sequence in a chain of events leading to the breakage.
1) The original factory Water pump - Usually the #1 culprit if it hasn't been changed by 60-65K. The factory water pump (in VW's infinite wisdom) has an impeller made of plastic which usually starts to disintegrate around 60K. Chances are, pieces of the water pump broke off - which results in the jamming of the belt driven gear section of the waterpump. And since the belt is still moving - that resulted in the shearing and eventual breakage of the timing belt. I had the timing belts changed on my 2003 1.8T Jetta (@ 73,000 miles) and my wife's 2003Passat 1.8T (@65,000 miles), and in both cases, the timing belt had plenty of life left in it (The current timing belts are rated for 100,000 miles) - but the waterpumps were on the verge of disintegration.
I ordered a complete timing belt kit for each car, which includes the timing belt, serpentine belt, tensioners, and an upgraded Beru waterpump with the metal impeller - which will last at least 100,000 miles (unlike the factory plastic water pump).
NOTE: As bpeebles mentioned before, the earlier 1.8T models (1998-2002) came with the timing belts with earlier change intervals (usually 60,000 miles). The newer timing belts are rated higher (100,000 miles) - provided the water pump has been changed to the upgraded metal one. In this case, I never go beyond 90,000 miles between timing belt changes.
2) Sludge. If the motor oil hasn't been changed at the proper 5,000 mile intervals with a minimum VW 502.00 spec oil (NOTE: Every oil on the list is synthetic), or better yet a motor oil that has been approved by VW for the newer 503.01 specification (Mobil 1 0w40, the German-made Castrol Syntec 0w30, etc.), the following events have more than likely happened:
- Sludge builds up over time, clogging the narrow oil passages
- The cylinder head quickly wears due to lack of proper lubrication
- The timing gear tensioner fails - resulting in the timing gears seizing
- As the timing belt is still moving, it shears (similar to what occurs when the water pump fails) and eventually breaks - leading to the expensive union of pistons and valves.
I have a network of VW mechanics who consistently described to me the two scenarios above that are the main culprits of timing belt failure. In their experiences, it is VERY rare that the timing belt fails on its own without another component failing beforehand.
The dealer will tell you that the timing belt broke first, but that is less than likely once you experienced inspecting a timing belt. The belt itself is very thick and of robust construction.
HTH.
B.T.W. - A complete timing belt kit (with the metal water pumps), tensioners, serpentine belt, etc. can be purchased for just under $300 at VW sites such as germanautoparts.com or ngpracing.com (as well as other VW-related websites).
Good Luck..
I just recently bought a used 2002 jetta and the radio does not play. The radio will cut on and cut off, it shows me the volume going up and down, when I put in a cd, I see everything functioning as if its reading the cd but no other buttons on the radio works besides the power/volume button. I get no sound and cant change channels, scan, or anything. When I turn the volume all the way down to 0 or minimum, I hear a beep come from the speakers so I think the speakers are hooked up,(but even if the speakers weren't hooked up that still wouldn't explain why no other buttons work) I've read some other forums and topic and keep reading about a safe mode, but my radio is not saying anything about being in a safe mode. Is this possibly another form of the safe mode. Has anyone had or heard of this happening before. If anyone has any info on this please let me know before I go tearing out the radio
My dilemma is I have to get my emissions done this year to renew my tabs, and they only test off the computer, which is faulty. Is there a code I can use to trip the computer and clear it myself without a diagnostics computer? I've heard of some vehicles having a trip code where if you hold the odometer clear button for 10 seconds, then turn the ignition on and hold the odometer button again, that it will clear the computer? Is this possible...I need to get me tabs!
I already had my computer cleared at my service center, but at the emissions they said they couldnt get a reading because the code hadn't been cleared. Then the light came back on after 20 miles.
It sounds like they probably were getting a "not ready" reading. When you reset the light, it takes some time to go through everything and decide if it should turn back on. If they will not pass you when the light says "not ready" reseting light by any method is not going to help. You will have to fix whatever is causing the light to go on (or sell the car to someone in an area that does not have emissions testing).
In my state if your car says not ready they put you on the dynamometer and test actual emissions. However, if you already went for the test and failed based on CEL light, then they will not do that when you go back for retest. This happened to my kid, his CEL light in Jetta came on between the time he got out of the car and the test station tech plugged it in. Then when he went back after fixing the problem car said "not ready" and they said he had to drive it until it was ready...they would not do the dynamometer thing.
Sometimes bearing noise will get worse when you turn one way and better when you turn the other.
That is what a warantee is for.... to cover manufacturer defects.
Some of the items that were covered under warantee for me;
*)numbers on manual-xmission shift-knob were becoming smudged with use.
*)Water droplets forming inside headlight-housing
*)Oil leaking from trunk-opener pistons.
*)Poor radio reception (turns out that water was leaking around antenna)
thanks
Have done the following repairs:
1) Replaced the vacuum hose between Combi valve and Solenoid Valve.
2) Replaced hose between secondary air pump and combi valve.
3) Replaced the combi valve
The only other parts remaining to be replaced for the Secondary Air Malfunction seems to be the solenoid valve and the Secondary air pump.
Any ideas/thoughts?
Thanks
JTF
Are you sure that you understand what the "Secondary Air Injection System" is supposed to be doing? It is best to fully understand WHY a system exists and HOW it is supposed to work. Also, do you know how the computer is "sensing" the flow?
Once you understand the system better, It may be easier to isolate the failure.
You asked for ideas.... my idea is VagCom With a VagCom, you should be able to actually MONITOR the "Secondary Air Injection System" Flow against the desired setpoint. (VagCom can draw a graph as you accellerate thru the gears.)
I don't know if it's the emergency brake cable or not, but when I drove off this morning it happened again like yesterday, and my brakes were burning. I don't know what could be causing this specifically, but have some ideas. It is only the rear driver's side. I put new calipers, pads, and rotors on the rear. When I went to pull it in my garage this morning, however, it wasn't seized. My e-brake also needs to be pulled pretty high, and isn't very strong. Any help is much appreciated and if you need any more info I'll do my best to provide details.
Can you please explain.
And once I have the VAG tool, you said monitor it in diff gears - so will that be while moving and how would I know what exactly is the problem? Like is it the vacuum hose that connects from air pump to Combi valve or the one from Combi valve to Solenoid ..
As you can tell, am very new to internals of cars
Any help would be appreciated.
This tool has saved me $$$$ in diagnostic charges. After running the tool to obtain the particular code(s), I print the results to have handy in the event I have to take the car to my mechanic (on issues that I do not have the tools or equipment to resolve myself).
I was able to pinpoint and swap out a faulty #3 fuel injector on my 2003 Jetta 1.8T.
It is well worth the cost.
I have a 2005 Jetta 2.5L engine. I would like to change the air filter but cannot seem to find its location in the engine.
Can anyone help me?
Ken
Thanks for the help.
My gas mileage has dropped from 34 to 9 in a matter of 1 tank of gas.
The engine idles rough and hesitates, almost stutters when accelerating sometimes. When going 70 on the highway at times she will begin to shake- like she's coughing...other times it runs normally. The engine temperature doesn't reach it's normal 190 degrees. The exhaust smells like gasoline and the exhaust is thick and dark in color. When it coughs, the CHECK ENGINE light will blink and then stop. When it stops blinking, the car SEEMS to return to normal operation.
I thought it was maybe a gasoline problem and immediately filled up with premium but it ate the premium just as fast as the 87 octane. Are we looking at a Cat Converter problem? I have no idea.
I would really appreciate some help...?
The only thing in common with alternator and power-steering is the serpintine belt. If this belt slips (perhaps due to water splashed from front-right wheel), both the power-steering and the alternator will be affected for a few seconds.
This morning, when starting the car, the oil light came on on the dash and then it told me to "STOP" cause my coolant was low. I checked it and it is the lowest it has ever been-about a cm in the pan. It has never been this low, do you guys know what the heck is going on? It's a bummer cause over the past year, I have had 2 major repairs and do not want to put anymore money into this car, especially for something I thought got fixed. Plus, I'm no longer in California where I got it fixed. Thanks! :confuse:
I have a 2002 2.0.
My problem is that my back locks will not Unlock or lock with my remote or when i press the lock button in the main driver console. the only way to unlock them is to open the door from the inside and the only way to lock them is to push the lock manually. Sometimes the back left one works , most of the time not..
This is very annoying due to the fact that if i dont remeber to lock them manually the the alarm will not arm and lock them when im walking away. ... any solutions to this problem?
Thanks in advance!!!!!
Krystian
Krystian
Hang in here - we'll try to help.