From what I can remeber, it was a few years ago, I took the hub off and then placed a large socket on the bearing and hammered it out. I tried the same to get it back in, and had no luck. I ended up taking up to work and using a shop press to press the new one in. IF you run into this problem some times parts stores will have a press in the back room, if not take it to a machine shop or tool and die shop and they could do it for 10 or 20 bucks I would think.
Thanks! I just bought this little car as a "Maui Cruiser" for $1,600, but I'm really starting to like it, and thinking a few well placed rehab dollars could make it a really fun ride.
Hi, my 2000 zx2 has 125,000 miles on it and 2 months ago the "check engine" light came on for the first time since I got it at 80K miles. Autozone's computer said it was my o2 sensor, so I changed it and the light went off. Then I noticed out of nowhere that my coolant reservoir was completely empty, so I filled it up. My car has never leaked or anything so I had no idea how this happened, until I found a few weeks ago that the big water tube from the radiator to the engine block, where it connected to the engine, was wet with anti-freeze residue where the temp. sensor connected to the tube. And now the check engine light is back on and my temperature gauge is not working and is stuck between "cold" and "hot", even when the engine is cold as ice. Someone told me that my head gasket may be beginning to warp which could cause a loss of pressure in the water tube and mess up the o2 sensor. HELP PLEASE!!!
I have a 2001 ZX2 with 80K that I have owned since new. Only since last month have I noticed some odd noises coming from the car. When I hit 40 mph, there is a very odd rubbing/humming noise that comes from the right side of the car. I'm thinking it just must be the tread from my Michelin Harmony tires, since the noise is still present, though far less pronounced, at lower speeds. However.....I also notice that when I am driving from 40 mph on up, when I let off the gas the car slows down too fast.......it is almost as though I am driving with the overdrive disengaged, though that is not the case. The car drives fine otherwise, and I have had no mechanical problems to speak of in the 7 years I have owned it.
I have taken the car into CarX who couldn't figure out what the problem was, though they did note a slightly out-of-round rim. We swapped rims out and it didn't solve the problem. They also thought it could be the wheel bearings.....I took the car to Ford for a more definitive answer. They could find nothing wrong, other than bad wheel bearings on the driver front-side wheel (which is NOT where all the noise is coming from, and definitely would not cause the massive slow-down in driving at faster speeds). I hope I'm not looking at a transmission issue....?
I am at a complete loss....no one ..not even the folks atmy local ford dealer have any ideas...anyone out there who may know??? thanks in advance for your help!!
Symptoms: 1) Temperature gauge constantly goes back and forth from cold to extremely over heating.
2) The heater produces no heat.
Procedures:
Flushed heater core (3 times)
Flushed radiator hoses
Flushed radiator
New thermostat
New radiator cap
New Radiator
New radiator hoses
New thermostat
Tested for hole in head gasket – test negative
Heater core flushed again, this time at the dealer who explained to my mechanic that the heater core in the 2000 Ford Escort is positioned above the radiator and requires a special device to flush it properly.
After each procedure, the heat and temperature worked for a period of 20 to 100 miles, the latter distance with the most recent procedure (heater core flushed by Ford dealer); however, while the heat worked and the temperature gauge did not fluctuate so dramatically, it did continually fluctuate between cold and warm, and the temperature level fluctuated as well, but never quit working until yesterday afternoon. This morning, the car produced no heat and the gauge fluctuated from hot to cold.
The fluctuating gauge problem may be a bad temp gauge or sensor. You could replace those. Won't help the heat though. I had to replace the heater motor on my 00zx2 when I had problems. That seemed to take care of everything. Since you've already taken everything else out, you might try this.
I have the same problem with my 1998 ZX2 stuck in park and am wondering if you would explain how you did the manual override with the screwdriver? Thanks.
I have an automatic 1998 ZX2 and the shifter is stuck in park. The button on the shfter doesn't depress so the shifter won't move. The brake lights go on.
Someone else said they did a manual override it with a screwdriver and was wondering what that might be and if it might work in this case. Thanks.
That should work if your car has that feature. There's a little solenoid in there under the console that is probably sticking and locking the lever, even if it got the proper signal from the brake pedal. If the emergency release doesn't work, then you have either a linkage or internal problem.
don't know. I think it's something you slide back. Hang tight on this board, some other ZX2 owner must have done this. Or go ask the parts counter guy at Ford, he may know. You might have to buy a part from him anyway if it's the shift lock solenoid. Tell him/her you need to know so you can bring the car in.
okay, first of all I let some dumbass jump his car with mine. At first nothing happened but a dead battery. Then I went on a two hour trip and my battery sort of exploded...So i had to replace the alternator and battery..now its running just fine, its just that none of my lights work except the dash lights. Signal lights, headlights, and all my back lights just dont work..I really need help!!!
I will not be much help. But, I jump my sister's 98 ZX2 with a 94 Lincoln Continental and she drove a short while. Then, it died. Jumping it kill the electrical system and blew the computer in it.
Thanks so much for the info and advice. I'll call the parts guy and keep an eye on this board. I'm just a girl trying to figure this out, so I appreciate the help.
If you look directly to the right of the shifter knob while it's in park, you'll see a small, square plastic piece. Just pry that off and stick a screwdriver down through the hole and it should release the shifter.
I really don't know a permanent fix, maybe someone else could chime in? I haven't had the time to deal with it, I just ended up putting a 3/16 x 3" bolt through the hole as it looks better than the screwdriver. The downside is that the car can be shifted out of park without depressing the brake, even when it's not running.
I have a 99zx2 and had the same problem. Check all your signal lamps. The fast signal is usually indicative of a blown light bulb. Check the front and rear signals and make sure all is working. Put the flasher on and make sure the flashers are flashing. Check the brake lamps as well by applying the brake.
unfortunately there is thousands of things that could have happened. i jumped my zx alot because my batter sucked. nothing ever happened. if the dash lights are still working thhan the back lights probably need a new fuse (in fuse box) normally, the dash lights wont work if the back lights are not working. if the fuses are good.. than the only thing u can do is take it to a shop and get their opinion
when i get on the gas (flooring it) the car will sputter in third gear while accelerating at. this doesn't happen all the time. anyone one have any ideas. could it be a fuel problem? like its not getting enough or something else. this is a 1999 automatic and the car sat for about 5 mos.
On my 2000 ZX2 . Going down the road and it just quit. I replaced the motor about 6 months ago, so I don't think that's it. It was working just great. The haynes book shows a resistor, but I don't think my model has that. Any ideas on how to test it?
Hello all. I have a ZX2 automatic 2 door with a little more than 195, 000 miles on it. This car has been nothing but a series of breakdowns and or problems since I bought it but it is all I have to work with for now. Most recently the AC stopped working. It was fine last summer but when I turned it on for the first time this year nothing but hot air blew out. The AC went out before within a year of purchase so the dealer repaired it at no charge. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I'm thinking it needs an AC recharge. Roughly how much should I expect to pay. I live in the Baltimore metro area. Thanks in advance for all replies.
It turns out the blower got wet in a rainstorm because the drainholes under the hood got plugged up. The water had nowhere togo and got sucked into the blower. So clean your drainholes, boys. Keep all holes clean.
My 98 ZX2 has been nothing but great. All AC's go at one time or another ... no matter what car you have. When mine went 2 years ago it was a relay that had to be replaced ... a $300.00 item ... my mechanic said 20 years ago this would have been a $10.00 item.
I recently inherited a 2002 ZX2 with an unbelievable 8000 miles. I think it would make a great convertible. Anyone know where I might get the conversion? I am in the Chicago area.
Probably not a good idea on a unibody car. Think of what happens to a pyramid if you cut the point of it off. Massive job and you won't like the results IMO.
Don't know about the conversion kit, but if you are new to the ZX2 remember to always get your oil filters from the dealer and only use a good quality 5W-30. The oil filters have a special check valve in them to maintain the proper oil pressure. The dual overhead cam requires a constant and very specific oil pressure in order to operate most efficiently. If you use any old oil filter from the auto shop it will cause the rough idling that I'm sure you have read about in a thousand threads on this site. My wifes' ZX2 had a horribly rough idle until I met a mechanic who used to work at a Ford dealership. He flushed the motor with new 5W-30 and put the correct oil filter on it and it smoothed right out.
I own a 2000 ZX2 with an automatic transmission that has about 35k miles on it. I purchased it used from a Mercury dealership back in 2003 and have had virtually no problems over the last five years.
I don't put on a lot of mileage, as most of my driving is usually limited to running errands around town. I take pretty good care of it, perform regular maintenance, use synthetic oil and try to drive as smoothly as possible to maximize fuel economy/minimize wear and tear.
Recently, I took a trip out of state that required me to get on the highway for a couple of hours. There was very little traffic, so I was trying to coast between 55 and 60 mph. The car drove fine while on level stretches with the engine speed hovering at about 2400 RPM most of the way. It wasn't until I got to some hills that I noticed something odd.
I would depress the gas pedal slightly to maintain my speed while going uphill. Then, after reaching the top, I would try to very smoothly ease off the throttle a little so that I wouldn't speed up too much while descending the other side of the hill (I figured I could do this to improve my fuel economy while maintaining about the same speed).
Whenever I tried to slowly back off of the gas pedal, the engine would abruptly slow down by about 400 to 500 rpm and the vehicle's speed would be reduced by more than I had intended. It almost felt like a downshift, but the transmission was still in overdrive. The opposite would occur as I tried to gently get back onto the gas pedal, making the car lurch forward a little. This made the ride rather annoying (at least through sections with a lot of hills).
At first, I thought that maybe my inputs were not smooth enough, but the same thing took place even when I was using cruise control. In fact, it was probably more pronounced whenever I used cruise control. In the end, I settled on trying to compensate for some of the effect by applying a little extra pressure to the gas pedal while descending hills (as long as there weren't any cars in front of me).
I'm not a mechanic, so I'm not really sure what could be causing this. I've never had a problem like this in any of the other cars I've owned, so it feels very abnormal. I don't think I'm doing any damage driving it like this, but it's very difficult to operate smoothly.
As I mentioned, it only happens at highway speeds. I've already had the throttle position sensor and transmission fluid changed, but the problem persists. I went to two different transmission shops to see if they could diagnose the problem, but both times I was told everything was running properly and that they were unable to reproduce the glitch. I'm starting to wonder if perhaps this is some kind of "fuel delivery problem" with the engine.
This is my first time contributing to this forum. I reviewed the other messages before posting to see if anyone had encountered similar issues, but I didn't see anything that appeared relevant. I was hoping that someone might have an idea as to what might be causing this. At this point, most of the mechanics I've talked to seem to think that the car's fine and that it's all just in my head. :confuse:
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
:surprise: I have a 1999 ford escort zx2 and I was told that my tension needs replacing. I was quoted a price of $300 for parts and the same for labor. I feel like they think I am stupid. Question is this price outrageous or what?
:shades: Also I had a module replace because my air cond wasn't working the total job cost me 249. Please I need advice.
There are some pulleys that are recommended to be replaced after so many miles. How many miles are on it? They replace the serpentine belt at the same time. If you are going to the dealer its more expensive of course. Here in st. louis I know where it can be done for about a half to three fourths of your estimate. Just let me know.
I have a 1999 ZX2 AT with almost 200,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on so I had it checked at my oil change place. The car leaks a lot of oil so I get it topped off once a week. I was told the code said that the fuel was too lean so I needed to get a gas additive. The car started idling really rough at stop lights and would cut off if I did not put it in neutral and gun the engine. I put in the gas additive (octane booster) but it still ran really rough. I got the oil topped off again and on the way out of the service center the brakes went out for a period and then worked. I pulled into the next shopping center and called my mechanic. I had planned on taking it to him on Monday anyway because that was when he could work on it. Then the car would not start again. I had AAA tow it and am now without a vehicle. Does anyone have any idea what this could be?
I have had so much trouble with this car since buying it new. It has required major repairs since the beginning. What a :lemon:
After a 300 mile drive in 90 degree weather, my check engine light came on and flickered for a while then went off. Car seems to be running ok. Is there something I should check?
I have a 2002 ZX2. This morning on my way to work, I filled up my gas tank and then took off on the freeway. As soon as I turned on my AC unit, a weird smell started coming from the vents--almost like burning rubber or a "sweet" smell--I tried all the settings (i.e. vent, air conditioning, heat, defrost), and the smell didn't dissipate. I am about 2,000 miles over my oil change mileage. Could this be related to the smell? Any suggestions?
Hi Robert. This is an old thread I know, but allow me to add my $00.02 worth.Last spring my '01 ZX2 with, at that time <70,000 miles developed an intermittent screeeching/squealing sound similiar to a bad belt/pulley/or bearing. It was due for a timing belt change so I took it in to a trusted local shop who installed a new timimg belt, tensioner and idler pulleys. The noise stopped for a while but then returned sporadically. I returned a few weeks ago and this time they replaced the serpentine accessory drive belt but the sound continued. My mechanic removed the timing cover and inspected the timing belt and then removed the serpentine belt and ran the car without, effecitvely eliminating the water pump and alternator as sources, and the sound persisted. He listened with his stethoscope through the valve cover and determined it was the exhaust cam making the noise. The diagnosis was a bad variable camshaft timimg assembly and it was recommended I take it to a Ford dealer. The Ford dealer informed that it was a common problem with the ZX2's and would run anywhere from $500 to $1500. His recommendation was that I drive it until the noise was constant and then return for the repair.
Last Friday I was in the local shop again for an unrelated issue. A different tech, who was unaware of the history, worked on the car. He heard the squealing noise and investigated on his own. With the engine idling he pulled out the oil dipstick which was accompanied by a whoooshing sound like vacuum escaping and the squealing ceased. The problem? The crankcase breather filter! I picked up Motorcraft Part #FA-1661 from the Ford dealer for $15.93 plus tax. As my local tech explained it to me when the crankcase breather filter is obstructed the engine vacuum is not allowed to escape and it sucks oil down from the top of the engine effectively starving the camshafts for oil and hence the squealing noise. I also gathered from talking to him that not all zetec engines came equipped with the breather filter, some apparently just had a straight hose from the valve cover to the air intake case.
My experience led me to google the topic which brought up this thread. Nice job in spreading the word about this issue Robert.
I am really disappointed in Ford Motor Company for failing to awaken to what is obviously a known problem and issue a technical service bulletin or some statement on the issue. The dealer service departments don't seem to be aware of this.
When my sister had the car the e-brake got stuck up so a mechanic detached the wire so it wouldn't stay on. i need to fix it for inspection time and was wondering what could have caused it to stick and if it would be an easy fix. its a 99 zx2 manual
A sweet smell is usually antifreeze. If the smell is in the interior of the car it could be the heater core (up under dash somewhere) to a leaking hose. A decent A/C shop should be able to rectify that for you.
2000 Ford Escort ZX2...after changing the factory radio with a Sony Xplod CD Radio (which works), now the airbag light is flashing. Checked for loose wiring or connections, no luck. Any ideas? I have seen some posts on disconnecting battery cable for 30 min and another on getting dealer to reset for you, but wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas. Thanks.
Comments
I just bought this little car as a "Maui Cruiser" for $1,600, but I'm really starting to like it, and thinking a few well placed rehab dollars could make it a really fun ride.
I have taken the car into CarX who couldn't figure out what the problem was, though they did note a slightly out-of-round rim. We swapped rims out and it didn't solve the problem. They also thought it could be the wheel bearings.....I took the car to Ford for a more definitive answer. They could find nothing wrong, other than bad wheel bearings on the driver front-side wheel (which is NOT where all the noise is coming from, and definitely would not cause the massive slow-down in driving at faster speeds). I hope I'm not looking at a transmission issue....?
has spent basically 3 1/2 years of it's life in the shop.
THe transmission was completely re-done,know for the last 1 1/2 years 5th will fail to stay in gear at anytime.
My question is: Has this model allways been defective ?
Symptoms: 1) Temperature gauge constantly goes back and forth from cold to extremely over heating.
2) The heater produces no heat.
Procedures:
Flushed heater core (3 times)
Flushed radiator hoses
Flushed radiator
New thermostat
New radiator cap
New Radiator
New radiator hoses
New thermostat
Tested for hole in head gasket – test negative
Heater core flushed again, this time at the dealer who explained to my mechanic that the heater core in the 2000 Ford Escort is positioned above the radiator and requires a special device to flush it properly.
After each procedure, the heat and temperature worked for a period of 20 to 100 miles, the latter distance with the most recent procedure (heater core flushed by Ford dealer); however, while the heat worked and the temperature gauge did not fluctuate so dramatically, it did continually fluctuate between cold and warm, and the temperature level fluctuated as well, but never quit working until yesterday afternoon. This morning, the car produced no heat and the gauge fluctuated from hot to cold.
Someone else said they did a manual override it with a screwdriver and was wondering what that might be and if it might work in this case. Thanks.
PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
and the car sat for about 5 mos.
Any ideas on how to test it?
So clean your drainholes, boys. Keep all holes clean.
Thanks
I own a 2000 ZX2 with an automatic transmission that has about 35k miles on it. I purchased it used from a Mercury dealership back in 2003 and have had virtually no problems over the last five years.
I don't put on a lot of mileage, as most of my driving is usually limited to running errands around town. I take pretty good care of it, perform regular maintenance, use synthetic oil and try to drive as smoothly as possible to maximize fuel economy/minimize wear and tear.
Recently, I took a trip out of state that required me to get on the highway for a couple of hours. There was very little traffic, so I was trying to coast between 55 and 60 mph. The car drove fine while on level stretches with the engine speed hovering at about 2400 RPM most of the way. It wasn't until I got to some hills that I noticed something odd.
I would depress the gas pedal slightly to maintain my speed while going uphill. Then, after reaching the top, I would try to very smoothly ease off the throttle a little so that I wouldn't speed up too much while descending the other side of the hill (I figured I could do this to improve my fuel economy while maintaining about the same speed).
Whenever I tried to slowly back off of the gas pedal, the engine would abruptly slow down by about 400 to 500 rpm and the vehicle's speed would be reduced by more than I had intended. It almost felt like a downshift, but the transmission was still in overdrive. The opposite would occur as I tried to gently get back onto the gas pedal, making the car lurch forward a little. This made the ride rather annoying (at least through sections with a lot of hills).
At first, I thought that maybe my inputs were not smooth enough, but the same thing took place even when I was using cruise control. In fact, it was probably more pronounced whenever I used cruise control. In the end, I settled on trying to compensate for some of the effect by applying a little extra pressure to the gas pedal while descending hills (as long as there weren't any cars in front of me).
I'm not a mechanic, so I'm not really sure what could be causing this. I've never had a problem like this in any of the other cars I've owned, so it feels very abnormal. I don't think I'm doing any damage driving it like this, but it's very difficult to operate smoothly.
As I mentioned, it only happens at highway speeds. I've already had the throttle position sensor and transmission fluid changed, but the problem persists. I went to two different transmission shops to see if they could diagnose the problem, but both times I was told everything was running properly and that they were unable to reproduce the glitch. I'm starting to wonder if perhaps this is some kind of "fuel delivery problem" with the engine.
This is my first time contributing to this forum. I reviewed the other messages before posting to see if anyone had encountered similar issues, but I didn't see anything that appeared relevant. I was hoping that someone might have an idea as to what might be causing this. At this point, most of the mechanics I've talked to seem to think that the car's fine and that it's all just in my head. :confuse:
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
:shades: Also I had a module replace because my air cond wasn't working the total job cost me 249. Please I need advice.
They replace the serpentine belt at the same time. If you are going to the dealer its more expensive of course.
Here in st. louis I know where it can be done for about a half to three fourths of your estimate.
Just let me know.
I have had so much trouble with this car since buying it new. It has required major repairs since the beginning. What a :lemon:
Car seems to be running ok.
Is there something I should check?
I have a 2002 ZX2.
This morning on my way to work, I filled up my gas tank and then took off on the freeway. As soon as I turned on my AC unit, a weird smell started coming from the vents--almost like burning rubber or a "sweet" smell--I tried all the settings (i.e. vent, air conditioning, heat, defrost), and the smell didn't dissipate. I am about 2,000 miles over my oil change mileage. Could this be related to the smell? Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Last Friday I was in the local shop again for an unrelated issue. A different tech, who was unaware of the history, worked on the car. He heard the squealing noise and investigated on his own. With the engine idling he pulled out the oil dipstick which was accompanied by a whoooshing sound like vacuum escaping and the squealing ceased. The problem? The crankcase breather filter! I picked up Motorcraft Part #FA-1661 from the Ford dealer for $15.93 plus tax. As my local tech explained it to me when the crankcase breather filter is obstructed the engine vacuum is not allowed to escape and it sucks oil down from the top of the engine effectively starving the camshafts for oil and hence the squealing noise. I also gathered from talking to him that not all zetec engines came equipped with the breather filter, some apparently just had a straight hose from the valve cover to the air intake case.
My experience led me to google the topic which brought up this thread. Nice job in spreading the word about this issue Robert.
I am really disappointed in Ford Motor Company for failing to awaken to what is obviously a known problem and issue a technical service bulletin or some statement on the issue. The dealer service departments don't seem to be aware of this.
Jon