Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

jrct9454 · September 2002

...I don't think the original message mentioned that it was raining. In that case, I too suspect the windshield, OR the drainage that should occur from the plastic apron at the base of the windshield...

altair4 · September 2002

Do I understand you correctly...all parts of the replacement exhaust system are covered for the duration of ownership? Not just the muffler, like at Midas, et al? Thanks.

bburton1 · September 2002

That is what I was told and just happened to look in my owners manual and it states the same thing. Course if this one lasts as long as the orig that will mean at least 280K before replacement-and that is a lot of miles to avoid getting whacked.

Only a slight rattle in the exhaust-suspect it is one of those built in heat shields-will get some AL clothesline wire and that will fix it.

Again if u do it right-replacing the exhaust on one of these puppies is a 2 hour job

asm0721 · September 2002

Should I pissed about that problem?? Is it something that can be fixed easily or should I demand a new car?? I mean I just got the car and it shouldn't have these problems...I had a 96 Accord that had similar problems and the car developed a musty smell..and after a year of fighting with Honda they took it back as a LEMON....Should I give them a shot to fix it?

bodydouble · September 2002

Seeing how the car is only literally a few days old, I would raise hell with the manager of the dealer and try to get a new one. But be prepared for EXTREME resistance. Since the problem is caught early enough, if they reset the windshield properly (assuming that is the problem) and dried out the carpet, you should be OK. But I empathize with you. Something like that does take away a bit the new car lustre.

maltbie · September 2002

You had a 96 Accord that leaked and you bought another Accord with the same problem! What are the odds of this happening? You must feel jinxed with Honda. I'd be pulling my hair out if this happened to me. I'd demand my money back and buy Toyotas from now on.

auburn63 · September 2002

Probably all you need is a main fuel relay as that sounds like the best possibility to me. Good luck..

martye320 · September 2002

I haven't written in a long while since I've been in Thailand all summer (still enjoying this side of paradise. I found good internet access and wanted to thank AUBURN63 for his expertise. This is what happened. I posted my message on the idle problem and before I read the response, I was off to a dealer, Honda of Pasadena (far, but they figured out and fixed my transmission). After I got off the 110 freeway, I put the car into park and grabbed my manual from the glove compartment. When I put it back into drive, the check engine light came on and the car was literally about to die from the idle shaking. It sputtered all the way to Honda, in which the tech guys were surprised to see it 'dying' at in Park. Well, the checked it and it was the idle control valve or something like that. it was fixed under my extended warranty for Honda care. Hopefully, this time that it's running like new, it will stay that way for another 50,000 miles, at least. Yes, it's at 85,000 miles now. My baby's getting a 3 month vacation.

martye320 · September 2002

I bought a 2002 CIVIC when it came right out. On the way of driving to Santa Barbara, it says I was driving 160 mph and other cars were passing me. Then at idle, it says it was at 40 mph. To the gent with the new 2003 accord, no way no how am I going to be a test mouse for Honda Motors. I'll buy the LAST model they pump out. That basically goes for any car.

jrct9454 · September 2002

You can try to get them to replace the car, but in the absence of at least ONE attempt to fix it, I doubt seriously if anyone will step up to the plate.

There is no reason this should have lingering effects if the car is properly repaired. However, that is a big "if" - you need to make it clear to them what your expectations are, and I would hold out for an extended warranty on any items related to the incident, including long-tern corrosion/odors/etc.

dfwk2500 · September 2002

Tell the dealer and Honda that you are concerned that with all the water in the car mold may develop. Lately that has been sufficient to spend 100k to eliminate all traces of moisture and mold in a house. Why not carry it over to a car. At a minimum, after they have assured you it is been fixed and all inside water issues have been resolved, ask them to pay for a mold test. If it comes back positive tell them you want a new car as your health is at risk. Unless you have severe allergies, I don't think mold will be a health issue for you, it does seem to have everyone's attention these days, and just the mention of it creates unnecessary hysteria. You might as well let it work for you.

sukal · September 2002

Hello,

I have a 1992 Accord EX with 107k on board. Lately, whenever I am turning over a dip or a bump (e.g. parking on uphill roadside) the suspension makes some noise. Is the normal or could this be the sign of smthg more dangerous? The noise is less if the steering wheel is straight.
-Sukal

timadams · September 2002

Mold grows where there is continuous moisture, not a one-time leak. If the car is fixed and the carpet dries out, there will be no mold.

The mold issue is being blown way out of proportion with houses, let's not extend the hysteria to cars.

vamoodys · September 2002

The interior driver's side door handle on my 92 Accord needs to be replaced. The plastic molding around the handle is cracked and falling off, and the handle itself is very loose as a result.

I bought the replacement door handle assembly from my local Honda dealer, in the hopes that it would be a simple repair, and I could figure it out myself. (This was a very optimistic hope - I am not really that handy.) I got as far as removing the screw that keeps the door handle assembly permanently attached, and wiggling out the door handle a little bit. I cannot seem to get the plastic moulding out though. I tried levering it out with a screwdriver, and that didn't work.

Does anyone have any tips for me on how to do this repair myself? Or is it harder than it looks, and I should just go ahead and take it to the dealer or a local repair shop?

Thanks!

maxhonda99 · September 2002

vamoodys, You may want to remove the whole door panel. Which is relatively easy.

There should be a couple of screws holding the plastic door panel to the metal frame underneath, and about 7 or 8 plastic pop-off screws around the rim of the door panel. Once you get the panel off, you'll see it's pretty easy.

maxhonda99 · September 2002

vamoodys,

Here's some links to check out:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/instal/instal.htm

They have some picture illustrations on the site. If you surf around a bit, you may be able to get a better idea of how to fix your door.

They don't have info. for the 92 model, but essentially, the door panels should be attached in similar locations to the door frame and should have similar retaining clips, etc.

Also, you may want to ask on superhonda.com.

I'm sure on there someone can give you much better step by step instructions of how to repair your problem.

mwcarlso · September 2002

I have a 93 Accord EX Auto and have replaced both front door handles, and you don't necessarily have to remove the inner door panel. On the new handle you will see there is a plastic clip welded to the back of the handle which keeps it in the door panel. You have to shift the door handle forward in the door panel and really pry hard to get it to come free. It took me a few minutes so keep trying. After it comes loose you will need to detach the rod which connects the inner door handle to the outer door handle, and the handle should finally come out. If you have power locks, the handle I think just slips right over the lock actuator. Put the new door handle in, in the reverse order. I think if you just look at the new handle more closely, then removing the old one will be easier. Hope this helps.

asm0721 · September 2002

Well the service department called me at about noon today to say that the windshield was not sealed properly and that a drainage house for the AC was clogged...Not sure how it was clogged when the vehicle only had 50 miles on it...Needless to say they had to remove the carpet and the seats of the vehicle to dry everything out...They did say the vehicle was fixed, but Honda was actually stepping up to the plate and taking the vehicle back...I was shocked...I thought I was going to have to fight for everything. Murray's Honda in Dubois did a great job...They contacted Honda...Honda agreed to take the vehicle back and they are in the process of locating a new V6 Accord for me...Hopefully everything works out with the new one!!! I will keep my fingers crossed...

auburn63 · October 2002

martye320
Sounds like you had a good time this summer, glad to have been of some help.

sukal
Depending on what kind of a noise it is and how severe it sounds. If it is like a dry rubber sound/ bed creak like sound then it could be bad sway bar bushing. If it is nore of a clunk then it could be a bad ball joint. If it is a click then possibly an axle. What does the noise sound like and feel like if you can feel it.

sukal · October 2002

It is not a dry rubber sound and I can not feel it. It is more of a clunk, the thing is that I hear more when I go over dips rather than bumps and it is also more pronounced when the steering wheel is turned. Should I take it to a service station ? One more thing is that both the sides (right and left) make exactly the same sound.

I also wanted to ask you 1 more thing. I am a student and do not have much cash to spare, however I am very interested in keeping my car in good condition. My car (1992 Accord EX) has 107000 miles on it, I bought it used and do not know the maintenance history. However, I am sure that the timing belt has not been changed ?
How important is it to get it replaced right now ? Can I put if off, say till 115000 miles ?

Along with the timing belt, should I also get other things replaced (water pump?) I have already done a transmission flush, changed spark plugs and brake fluid. I also change oil/filter at 3000 miles, sometimes even less.

Thanks in advance...

vamoodys · October 2002

Thanks for all your help. It was a team effort between me and my husband, but we got the new door handle put in. Thanks again!!

mack20 · October 2002

Thanks Spokane and Auburn63 for the quick replies to my message.

It seems like the Temperature button (dial) is cracked/broken on my 94 Accord. Is there a way to buy this dial from the dealer? Might have to go to a junkyard.

To take it out. Do you just pull it out?

Thanks again

vamoodys · October 2002

mack20,
We have had to replace the temp dial more than once on our 92 Accord. (Yes, the same one with the broken door handle. I swear, the car will just fall to pieces before the engine ever calls it quits!) We bought the dial from the dealer - no problem, and it was cheap. Just pull off the old one, and stick the new one on. (Or, if you're lazy, you can do what my husband did, and just pull off the climate mode dial and use that one to adjust the heat.)

auburn63 · October 2002

sukal
Ok sounds like possibly an upper ball joint or a strut but it should be atleast checked to make sure it is not dangerous. ..As for the t-belt, they are supposed to be changed at 90,000 so I would do it as soon as possible but if that means rolling the dice till you can come up with the cash then thats the way it is. Should also do the water pump and external belts at the same time. Good luck

mack20
A dealer will sell that and yes it pulls right off. The only thing is to make sure the little metal clip comes off also with the old knob or the new one will not want to go on.

sukal · October 2002

I will get the struts checked.
Thanks again
-Sukal

bodydouble · October 2002

That's great! Never in my wildest dreams (and I've had some wild ones!) did I expect Honda to offer to replace the vehicle without a dragged out fight.

Maybe there was more to the problem than they let on....

bodydouble · October 2002

My question is actually in reference to my CL-S but you're the most helpful guy I know of on TH and the CL's V6 should be a close enough cousin to the Honda V6. Assuming mild ambient temperature (say, 60 - 65 degree F), after parking overnight, how much driving time is sufficient to get the engine adequately warmed up and the oil flowing properly before it is safe to start hitting the high part (vtec range) of the tach? A couple of miles? More? And would you have to consistently gun a less than warm engine to do long-term damage.

I'm asking because sometimes you don't have the luxury of driving sedately for awhile to get the engine warmed up. For example, if you have to hit a highway on-ramp right away and merge into traffic.

auburn63 · October 2002

When I am trying to complete a trip on the computer for diag purposes I have to get onto a highway and set a steady speed before the tw sensor hits operating temp. Usally before I can make it through a few traffic lights I am getting close to temp. So without checking time and miles I would have to say probably within 2 miles or about 5 min. of around town. After about a minuite the engine is warmed up enough for an occasional full throttle. Hope that helps some..

bodydouble · October 2002

It's reassuring to know that I'm not doing any permanent damage to the engine.

sflora · October 2002

Asked this awhile back but no response, thought I'd try again. The little green indicator light on the cruise control on/off button on the dashboard is out on my 2000 Accord. I assume it's the bulb; how do I get at it? Thanks.

auburn63 · October 2002

can you pop out the switch and check it for external bulbs? I have not had to replace one so I dont know but I will try and check on it tomorrow if I can remember..

marcinandula · October 2002

I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6 Coupe. After getting the 36000 km service I was informed that my rear rotors need machining and pads need to be replaced. How is it possible that the rear pads used up faster than the front.

They told me it could be my driving style?????

sflora · October 2002

Thanks! I haven't tried to pop it out, didn't want to break anything. I'll take a closer look.

tanveerm · October 2002

Hi all,

just bought a 2002 EX V6 last week. Have a problem and wondering if anyone has ideas. Driver side window...when I close it I hear a buzzing noise that gets distinctly louder as it gets closer to the closed position. Sort of like there is increased friction as the glass nears the closing point. No problems on the other side windows.

Intend to take it in for service next week, but was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and if it was an easy fix or not.

Thanks in advance.

bodydouble · October 2002

If you never hit the curb or big potholes, and are not in the habit of putting your car into a Starsky and Hutch 4-wheel drift, can the alignment still go "off" specs just thru normal driving?

sukal · October 2002

Auburn,

I took your advise and got the timing belt, water pump and the drive belts replaced. It set me back by $525. Also got the coolant flushed and replaced; and rotated the tires.
Regarding the noise, the dealer told me that the sway bar bushings need to be replaced. Parts and labor add up to $170 :-( Isnt it too much? I am going broke. Should I shop around or is this a good quote ? I do not know whether the dealer is ripping me off or if this is a genuine cost. Any suggestions?
-Sukal

alcan · October 2002

Look at a protractor. It measures in degrees. See how close the increments are? 1/4 of 1 increment (1/4 degree) difference in camber from side to side can cause a pull. As vehicles age and springs sag, camber changes toward negative. That's the good news. The bad news is that as camber changes, it causes a change in toe. Toe is the #1 tire wear alignment factor.

wolverine_x · October 2002

My friend let me borrow his accord 2000 exl last night for a couple of days since my problematic audi has to be in service again.

I have noticed that when reversing it is making a high pitched sound (screeching) and very loud for a few seconds which i thought is coming from the rear left wheels. Also, when turning to the left it makes a lower pitched and less louder sound on the front left tire. I was not applying any brakes to produce this sound just to make sure it is not because of the brakes.

I am little bit worried because I may have caused this. I have no way of knowing if this problem has been there before because my friend is out of the country.

Could somebody tell me what could possibly be wrong?

bodydouble · October 2002

I wonder if the change in toe over time it's the reason that the steering wheel will become slightly off-centred after a couple of years even though I never hit curbs or anything. They adust the toe setting to centre the wheel, do they not?

And another by-product of the change in toe is the car will not track as well.

auburn63 · October 2002

sukal
You may be able to just lube the bushings to get the noise to stop unless they are all cracked up or broken. If you are not able to do so yourself then you could go and get another quote for referance.

wolverine_x
Sounds like the brake sensors are hitting. Usally when they first start hitting they will make a noise that goes away when you hit the brakes. If it is a 4 wheel disc brake car then it probably will be the rears because they sound more like you described than the front.Good luck

mwcarlso · October 2002

I had the same problem with my 93 Accord EX a couple yeays ago at around 130,000 miles. The Honda dealer just lubed the bushings and installed a tape kit to make the noise go away. I think they charged me about $40 to do it.

tintinn · October 2002

My 92 Accord (Auto) runs well till lately I notice it becomes hard to pull gear from parking to reverse or the other way. Other shifts are just normal. Am I so unlucky to get a transmission breakdown? I know it will cost me a fortune to replace it if that is the case.... Any advice will be highly appreciated.. Thanks so much

wolverine_x · October 2002

thanks auburn. I have to duplicate over and over again the problem hoping that it will go away. But instead of going away, now when I am applying the brakes the sound becomes louder than ever for a couple of seconds more than usual. Another thing that I have noticed when i rolled the windows down while driving 65-70 mph, I could also hear a somewhat muted high-pitched sound coming from the front left wheels. It sounds more like two metals rubbing or grinding each other, it comes for 15-20 seconds and then somewhat disappears and then resurface again- it is high-pitched but not as loud as the one when I am applying the brakes. I do not know if these two sounds are related.

I will be returning the car tomorrow but I need to update my friend about his car. I may probably bring in for check before I return. Sounds like the right thing to do, if indeed I caused this.

Now that the sound is duplicated when brakes are applied, could it be on the brakes? The car is having 40,000 miles on the odo. Seems pretty early for brakes to wear that soon, Dont you think?

Auburn, many thanks for the quick reply and for the others too.

th83 · October 2002

I'm sure some (immature, like me) people will think that title is funny. I digress. I was recently hit in the rear by a Jeep Grand Cherokee that was going about 35mph. Needless to say my car doesn't look pretty. One muffler is hanging to the ground, the bumper is crumpled like paper, and the left taillight is shattered. What really concerns me is that my car is putting out white smoke. It got hit Wednesday and I hadn't started it until last night. I let it run for about 5 minutes(until it warmed up)and I noticed that white smoke was puffing out of both tailpipes. At first I believed that it was condensation but, condensation steam only travels a few inches before it tapers off. This smoke rose above the car in steady 5-foot streams. It wasn't thick but it didn't look like something a car with 2,539 miles should be emitting. Was something damaged in the collision that could cause it to smoke like that? I don't see how considering the normal source of smoke is the engine burning oil or coolant(impossible in a new car). Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Tom

kw_carman · October 2002

Hi

We just bought a 1998 Accord LX. On the dash under the far-left air vent, is the cruise control button. On it there is a space for a light, however, since we have bought it there has never been a light there. Did it, at one time, ever light up?

auburn63 · October 2002

tintinn
Your problem is not all that bad, not dirt cheap but not diamond expensive either. Sound like the shift cable is in need of replacement. They tend to bind as they get old going into and out of park.

wolverine_x
Still sounds like it is going to be a brake problem to me. 40k is about right for rear disc and or front disc depending on braking habbits. Rear shoes on these cars last forever.

th83
White smoke out the tail pipe is almost always coolant getting into the cylynders. Did you over heat or run the car hot after the accident? Was there any loss of coolant in the accident? Are you sure that it is white smoke and not just the normal condensation smoke on a cold motor? Good luck

bburton1 · October 2002

If you suspect you are loosing coolant or see white smoke, one way to see if you are getting exhaust into your cooling system is when the motor is cold, take off the radiator cap-if the rad is not full of fluid-fill it up to the top, start the engine and if you see rad juice jumping up - this usually means u are getting exhaust gas into the cooling system. Generally means a warped heat and bad head gasket-these things are hard to fix-usually people temp fix them and sell the beast. AL heads are great till they warp and then PITA

tanveerm · October 2002

Had similar problem on my '93 Accord 2 years ago and it was the shift cable. Cheap part to replace (less than $100 from what I remember).

maxhonda99 · October 2002

kw_carmen, Yes. a little green light is supposed to come on when you press the cruise control button under the far left vent. Does your cruise control work? It may be that the bulb burned out.

sukal · October 2002

Auburn and others;

I live in a small town and there are not many mechanics who deal with imports here but I will anyway try to get a second quote.
According to the dealer here, I have lost my right sway bar bushing (Is that possible ???) and the left one is all cracked up. If that is indeed the case; what is a reasonable price for parts and labor for putting a new pair in ?
I also seem to have lost wheel alignment, after I got the tires rotated. The car is pulling to the right. (missing bush ???). I swapped the right and left tires but still it is pulling to the right. Funny thing is it was fine till I got the tires rotated.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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