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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    The Integra is geared pretty short, so as to get maximum power out of the small engine. You're not hurting it at all by cruising at 4,000 rpms; however, I once did take my '92 Integra on a cross country (Rapid City, SD to Boston, MA) trip and found the noise got a little annoying. As long as you keep the car out of the redline, and cruise in the highest gear you feel comfortable in, you'll be fine.
  • sionsion Posts: 14
    Lancer fixer I don't agree with you about high raving it during cruising. 4k RAMs is still allot and stresses more on all the belts, the injectors, and pretty much everything else. Now, I am not saying that one cannot run 4k RAMs for hundreds of miles per day. What I am saying is that I think it hurts the engine on the long term in the following:

    timing belt, power steering pump, water pump, valves (if clearance is not o.), spark plugs (if not the hight speed temp. ones), even the engine structure (cyls, rings), etc.

    Also, driving at 4k RPM gives you around 87mph on a G2 integra (mine) and you're a little bit over the speed limit, especially for long cruises, you increase the likelihood to get tickets ;)

    Another thing: high revs do *NOT* bring about low consumption. The consumption/RPM curve is not liniar and if you start going over 3900-4200 RPM (G2 integra) the consumption goes up faster than the road speed ... especially if your last injection,valve,sparks,distributor tune-up is not very recent.

    my 2c.
  • sionsion Posts: 14
    I'd like to hear your opinions on reving the (G2) integra engine. I have a stick and i am changing gears as follows (in case of nice, safe, city driving):

    1st->2nd: 3500RPM
    2nd->3rd: 3000RPM
    4th->5th: 4000RPM

    I tend never to go over the 4k limit. I know that guys with VTEC don't even think about going under that if feeling the vtec kick in is important ;) ... but i was wondering what your city driving practice is. Also on the highway i cruise at 3500RPM with around 85mph. I am not going above that.

    any impressions welcome.


    ps. i am student and right now any car problems due to high revving or any other cause are very much unwelcome ;)
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    Into which gear, after fifth, do you propose brekke shifts in order to get his revs down at highway speeds? Should he instead drive at 60 mph on the interstate? Also, even cruising at 85 mph in MY G2 Integra (non-VTEC) I still got about 35 mpg. Not bad. Doesn't matter now, anyway; I moved up to the more family-friendly Accord.
  • brekkebrekke Posts: 304
    My (G1?) manual says to shift
    1st->2nd 14mph (I shift at 10mph around 3000 rpms)
    2nd->3rd 25mph
    3rd->4th 40mph
    4th->5th 49mph

    I usually shift around 3250-3500 rpms. At 4000 my engine is too loud for me. I tried downshifting to 4th to pass someone and all I got was a lot of noise and no power. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, a month of shifting makes me no expert, of course.

    I agree with you, Sion, about keeping it under 4Krpms. It's a 13 yr old engine with 210K miles and I don't want to buy a new car til next year. Plus my engine is smaller than yours (1.6L)
    The funny thing is the tire guy told me the car requires a speed-rated tire.
  • brekkebrekke Posts: 304
    lancerfixer, not to nitpick, but I'm a she ;)
    And yes, that's me tooling along in the right lane @ 65mph on the highways.

  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    Sorry about the gender mixup. :-)
    At least you're doing 65 in the RIGHT lane, unlike so many drivers around here...
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    on g1 & g2 non-VTEC Integras 4K RPM may be a little too high for cruising or at prolonged periods of time. On g3 Integras though I don't think it would cause much more wear & tear.
    I have a little '97 Civic DX and cruise at 80-90mph on the highway which is about 4K RPM. My commute is 80mi each way! I drive the car relatively hard.. I changed the timing belt at 91k mi. and didn't do my 1st tune-up till 83k mi. My spark plugs looked almost like new and so did the distrib. cap & rotor that I replaced. The wires were just a little dirty but I replaced them.. The motor burns almost no oil at all (maybe 1-2 ounces) at 3K mi, etc. etc. The car now has 118k mi. and knock on wood everything is going fine.
    BTW, I have friends that work in Honda & Acura dealerships and they told me that it's very rear that a water pump goes bad on Hondas/Acuras. So did my mechanic.. This is why they want to replace your water pump when you go in for a timing belt.. they have too many of them sitting on the shelves in the parts dept. plus they make extra money.
    In any case, on VTEC Integras 4K RPM is nothing. In my GSR I always cruise at 4K or higher (speed limit is usually 65mph and almost everyone averages 80mph). I have many friends with GSRs with over 100k mi. and they 've been racing them for several years/seasons.
    The VTEC B18C motor and the B18B (g3 Integra non-VTEC) are well built with parts to specifically sustain high RPMs and compression ratios.

    Now if you were talking sustaining 6K-7K RPM for long periods of time, that's a different story..
    Enjoy your cars and rev them freely. That is why I bought an Integra. To experience the high RPM whine, have fun, and auto-x race with it on weekends.
  • I got a '94 GSR last year, and I absolutely love my car. I put a racing exhaust on it and it can tool many of my friends Z28's and Stang GT's (but they have older ones). I put a system in it already, which is taking up the majority of my free cash, but I looked into headers and intake systems. Unfortunately, like Sion pointed out, you don't get much power from headers. I mean 8 hp isn't a whole lot. I hear that intakes are about the same if not less. Both together will run about 500 plus instalation. That's a lot of money for 16 hp in my opinion. Turbo's are the best, but I will never have 3000 to blow on my car all at once. What is everyone's thoughts on that?
  • When I asked the dealer how much it cost to change the timing belt he told me about $450 because he HAD to change the water pump too and he wouldn't do it unless he did both. I took the car to Goodyear instead and it cost $225. I drove at 35k miles after that with no problems.
  • RonaHRonaH Posts: 12
    Would appreciate some feedback on the Integra S. I recently tried the Honda Accord, both the 4 cylinder and the 6 cylinder. Is the 4 cylinder at all comparable to the engine in the Integra? I found the 4 cylinder Honda noisy and rough even though there was plenty of power for the car. Thanks.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I assume you mean the Integra LS? (or GS?). The Integra with a 5-sp. is much faster than the 4cyl. Accord but it's not any smoother or more quite than the Accord. I 've driven my friend's '98 Accord EX (5-sp), and have been in a '99 Accord LX auto, and the Accord is definitely more quite than the Integra. The Integra is more sporty and handles better than the Accord which seems to have a lot of body roll. The Accord did seem to have decent acceleration though for a mid-size almost 3,000lb 4cyl. sedan, but the Integra is still faster with a manual tranny. Although the Integra is 140hp vs. Accord's 150, it's much lighter (400lbs) than the Accord and its drivetrain (tranny, clutch, shifter) is built for quick shifting and quick transitions. They are really 2 different cars. The Integra LS offers more excitement where I found the Accord EX 4cyl. on my 4 hour drive back from Atlantic City a bit boring at best, although very comfortable. I didn't think its engine was buzzy at all. I actually thought it was very smooth (averaging 75mph) and the ride was very cushy and soft. If that's what you 're looking for get an Accord. The Integra is the opposite because it's more sporty. You don't seek comfort and smoothness/quiet in sporty cars..
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    A cold air intake such as AEM is maybe $199 at the most and can add 11-15hp to your GSR as well as another 7-9 ft-lbs of torque. you will not get these power gains with anything else without spending hundreds or thousands more.
    So instead of spending an extra $400-500 + labor on a header, get an AEM CAI and you will feel the extra power and enjoy a nice deep sound when you floor it..
    The intake is not hard to install yourself or you can pay someone $30 like I did to install it (I was at the shop already getting sports springs and performance sway bar installed so what the hek..). The only problem with it is that you have to be very careful not to drive into puddles of water because you can suck in water and blow your engine or seriously damage it. I don't drive my GSR in heavy rain although I 've been caught in a couple of "unforseen by metereologists" downpours and I didn't have any problems. Many roads were flooded with 1" of water or more but I just drove slower than normal and avoided bigger puddles. There have been people that hydrolocked their engines though in just 4" puddles but most of these Integras were also lowered..
    I agree with you, I wouldn't replace the header just for the performance gains (avg. is 4hp), wait till it gets rusty a little.. Especially when a header provides the best gains in the mid to high range which means you 'd have to rev it pretty high every time to take advantage of the extra power. Headers also improve your top end/top speed and most likely you won't be driving at 140mph.
    My AEM cold air intake (I dyno'd my car the same day before & after) gives me about 10hp right from 1,000rpm and around 2K RPM provides a 12.5hp gain consistently thoughout till 8K RPM redline.
  • Only1harry,
    Thanks for the advice. I'll have to look into the AEM intake.
  • I am looking at buying a 94-97 Integra LS/GS-R sedan with a manual transmission. My question is how is the Integra on pulling, has anyone tried it? Not that I am pulling anything heavy, I have a Yamaha Waverunner PWC that, according to them weighs around 600-750 pounds, plus an aluminium trailer, it would probably weigh somewhere near 800-1000 pounds.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I wouldn't pull anything over 500-600lbs. I believe 800-1,000lbs is a lot or over the recommended weight. I 'd have to look in my manual.
    Integras don't have a lot of torque: 127ft-lbs (LS) and 128 GSR. You want good low end torque and pulling stuff and the Integras don't achieve their peak torque until they get into the high RPMs. This much weight will put a lot of strain the engine and tranny and it will be very slow to get moving off the line. You should look into a 6cyl. car or maybe the Prelude that has 154ft-lbs of torque due to its larger displacement. VW 1.8T also has 150 torque and at much lower RPMs which would be more suited for pulling a trailer and stuff..
  • Thanks for the advice,

    I'm looking at a '96 model so the GTI is a definate no, but I do know that Preludes can pull becuase I've seen 4-cyl Accords pulling pop-up campers and ski boats (not at the same time).

    My tastes run toward the pure coupe lines of the '97-present Prelude anyway.
  • hey all you g2 teg owners, check out this site..

    all your questions about g2 tegs(90-93) will be answer here..
  • The engine in my '91 Acura Integra occasionally cuts off suddenly. The battery light comes on, there is a clicking noise, and the engine dies. This has always happened at 20-40 MPH, but I don't know if it is speed related. I can get it started again pretty easily, but it is annoying and of course potentially dangerous. My mechanic replaced the fuel pump switch, to no avail. Another guy suggested an ignition coil but had no firm clue. Any similar experiences or ideas out there?
  • Rickslick, will you please look at message #80, also from me, and tell me if the "Igniter" problem you mentioned in your '93 Integra gave anything like the symptoms I described? Thanks.
  • I have a 1996 Integra LSS, and sometime last year received a notice from Acura involving a settlement with the EPA about some emissions equipment not functioning properly. As part of the settlement, some services would be given free by Acura dealers. I think I lost this paper, but I assume if you make the dealer aware, they would have to still offer the services. Can someone else who got this notice tell me the exact details?
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    You will find several problems and probably the "emissions" (I assume it's an emissions problem since you mentioned EPA) one at this link:

    This is the National Highway & Transportation Safety Administration. Click on the recalls and also the Technical Service Bulletins (TSB). The TSBs are tricky. If your car is over the warranty they may not do the work for free. But sometimes yelling and screaming works, especially if you tell them the car had this particular problem before the warranty expired. Always call the Acura helpline/customer service too. They would have the information you 're looking for and they can send someone to resolve problems between you and a dealership.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Edmund's (as well as many other sites) have pictures and a brief article on the '02 Integra called the Acura RSX from the Detroit Auto show on Jan. 8th.
    Check it out. has a few more pictures of it where you can see the front of the car. It has a 2.0L i-VTEC with approximately 200hp. This displacement increase also means more torque. I would imagine around 140-150. Looks a little funky but the interior is cool with Recaro seats. This is a concept car though with 18" wheels and it's probably what the Type-R will get/look like. The article off also said that the RSX's sticker will range between $15-20K! They probably plan to release a base model with much less than 200hp I would imagine. There 's no way they could offer a 200hp sports car for $15K, I can't imagine the new base model RSX having less than 150hp. It would also directly compete with the Civic EX. Why would anyone buy an EX coupe with less HP for $16K when they can get a base RSX/Integra? I 'm very skeptical about that price range that was mentioned.. It's possible the base RSX will be a stripper like the base Celica and once you 're done adding A/C, ABS, alloys, moonroof, CD, whatever, it 'd be up to $18K or more like the Celica. The base Celica starts at $17K and I 'm pretty sure that's where Acura has their cross hairs on..
  • jnncrpjnncrp Posts: 1
    I have a 91 acura rs when it rains water leaks onto the floor on the right side. I had the cowl panel replaced but it still leaks. the water is coming thou the heater blower and the seal between the a/c core and the blower. any suggestions
  • sionsion Posts: 14
    You guys/gals know what kind of equipment i need to interface the G2 computer with a normal PC ? I want to be able to set the gas-cutoff etc.

    I am interested in something i can get myself ... i don't want to go to Acura or Honda to do this ...

  • Actually, I found the document in my glove box. This one is a little hard to find info on. On the EPA site, they mention it, but without details. A website called Lemon-Aid mentions it in their "secret warranties" section. It covers all Integras from 96-97 (except Type-R). In case anyone isn't aware of this, or didn't get Acura's notification, here's a link to the details:
  • I recently had my '96 GS-R stolen from my driveway, and I will be purchasing a new GS-R from my dealer with a nice State Farm check. I have thought about helping my new GS-R breath better, and have considered a CAI and possibly exhaust mods. I want to keep the external appearance of the car almost completely intact, since some people obviously feel they need my cars more than I do.

    Can anyone help me with the pros and cons of these mods, b/c I have been somewhat concerned with the engine H20 aspiration problems of CAI's?

    Also, I think I plan on driving this car only until the RSX or whatever they plan to call it comes out. Does anyone else have the same ideas?
  • I wanted to ask someone what the difference is between cat back systems and rear sections. I assume that rear sections are just that, the end of an entire cat back system. But I think I may be overlooking something. Anyway, if someone can help set me straight I would appreciate it.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Don't get a '01 GSR now if you plan on buying the new RSX!! You will loose a lot of money. You 'll probably pay $20K + tax for the '01 GSR and in a year or less when the RSX is out you will probably get about $18K if you sell it on your own or about $16-17K from the dealer trade-in
    The RSX is supposed to be out this year. The production model will be introduced at the New York auto show in April according to Acura. This definitely means the RSX will be out as a '02 model and some say it may even be realeased in late spring/early summer as an early '02. It just doesn't make sense buying a new car now, put mods on it and selling it within a year for the RSX.. You will loose at least $5K if you take in consideration the mods and tax that you would have paid..
    BTW, how much did the insurance company give you for your '96 GSR? and how many miles did it have?
  • I actually attempted to post you a response when I first saw your message but I accidentally erased it. My dad worked for a Ford dealership and one day I stopped in to visit. While driving on the lot I heard this awful ticking or scrubbing noise. I just knew it was one of those CRAPPY Fords but when I opened the door I was surprised to c that it was my beloved Integra. It did make a ticking noise but I don't remember if the battery lite came on because I shut the car off immediately and left the car over nite. I believe it mite be the same problem. If you call Honda/Acura cust serv and give them the VIN they might be able to tell you if they have records of your car being serviced. Good luck!!!!
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