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I also wonder if the sockets are OK but electrical continuity for the bulbs to battery ground is via ground wire to the frame in the vicinity of the lamp assembly, and the grounds have gone flaky due to rust.
I currently have my glove box removed trying to locate the resistors.
Take the door finisher off, using a razor blade peel of the clear plastic sheeting and the using the razor to cut the black goo is easier that pulling. save to re-apply.
Loosen all nuts on the window track and after you take the screw out apply Green LOCTITE the refasten. Make sure the original marks in the paint are covered by the bolt. This this way you know your putting everything back in the same position.
The track grease is usually dry, re-spread new SILICONE plumbers grease to all moving parts.
HERE'S THE TRICK
The electric motor is dirty! The electric motor is covered in a housing holding its rare earth magnets. Its Black, held on with 2 screws. remove the 2 screws pull of the cover. Mind the Rubber O ring. You will see the armiture and the 2 brushes. You can remove the armiture BUT be very careful not to damage the bushes/ bearing area on gear end of the unit. you have to clean the brush surface and re-lube the bearing so it may be easier to take it out...Putting it back in can be a pain but I thought it worth the try. it was, Mark the armature with a paint pen that way you know what position to put it back in.
You now have to clean the front bearing area, brush contact area and the rear thrust bushing.
I use an eraser to clean the contacts and electroinc parts cleaner to wash it off. The coils on the armiture can be rusty clean that off and wipe down with WD-40.
Oil the bearing surface with LIGHT OIL. 3&1 or something like that ONLY.
Put the armiture back in, the brushes will give you trouble, patience is a virtue.
Clean the inside of the cover make the sure the magnets are good and strong. clean out all rust, coat w/ WD-40. AND add a drop or 2 of the Light oil to the bearing seat!
put it back on Mind the O-ring smear some sicone grease on that to keep everything good and water tight.
I have done this for EVEY car I have owned, all but my old honda with cranks!
IT DOES WORK and is free...if you can do it!
You could call a GM service center and ask them about $ to fix, or try a Pep Boys.
Haynes manual does not seem to cover AWD issues. The middle torque shaft has 6 hex head bolts at either end. They are amazingly small and fit a 8mm socket, and the socket needs to be 1/4 inch drive (or the socket will be too thick to get onto the bolt head due to clearance). Does anybody know, will that middle torque shaft drop out easily if I remove those bolts, and upon reinstallation of the torque shaft what is the torque for those 12 bolts.
See it Here diagram position 1.
Go to hardware store or locksmith and have it cut.
1. Insert the first original key into ignition, turn to on, but don't start engine.
2. Leave on for about 5 seconds.
3. Remove
4. Insert second original key. Turn to on, but don't start engine.
5. Leave on for about 5 seconds.
6. Remove
7. Insert new pk3 key into ignition, turn to on, but don't start engine.
Leave on for about 15 seconds. Start engine.
I am not sure but if you have three keys you may have to insert it into repeat steps 1 -3 before if you have to step 7.
I have successfully programmed my pk3 in my 2002 Pontiac Montana, using steps 1 through 7.
Just pushed the dangling hoses up and over the electrical wires which are running along with the rubber hose.
What is the line for and where does it connect in the back and further forward?
Have a CATALYST MONITOR setting for emissions not ready.
99 Montana. What do I have to do to get this setting ready?
Battery was disconnected and all other monitors have become ready but not the Catalyst Monitor. Have driven 100 miles and still not ready.
No MIL or check engine light. EGR and evap are ready.