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Ford Aerostar
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Comments
Thanks,
Brendon
Portland Oregon
Stuck in Clairemont
thank you
Thanks for your help!
Next issue: My water temp guage fluctuates between the the letters of the word NORMAL...from O/R up to the beginning of the M and back down...almost as if my thermostat is opening and closing while I'm watching it...I recently put some stop leak in it because of a tiny little leak. Is the stop leak gummying up my thermostat? Any ideas?
With limited funds and limited experience with a voltmeter...how can I figure out what is wrong? This just suddenly appeared and put a cloud on my week.
Anyone who can help me on my stumbling problem and fluctuating temp guage problem...please respond.
Help me!
If it is the wrap-around amber/clear light lens then go to a junk yard. If it is the actual little bulb you need then go to auro parts place...go to the bulbs section and look it up in the book they have...it is a very inexpensive and common part.
KenCinFL
Last time this happened, I took the car to a mechanic he told me he only checked the fuel pump pressure. It was fine. The problem went away for 18 months for no known reason we can pinpoint. Now it is back.
If I turn off overdrive and put the gas pedal nearly to the floor to rev up the engine on the freeway, it runs fine. It almost seems like the engine is flooding.
Are there any sensors that sense whether the van is level? I can't tell if the car is flooding or starving.
A FORD Dealer mechanic wanted to change the plugs for $500.00. I had just changed them.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
HIH,
Mariot
Mariot
HIH,
Mariot
Happy shopping,
Mariot
HIH,
Mariot
I heard the Freestars are kind of junky. My friends son worked for Visteon and had problems assembling them when they first came out.
Not too impressed with the quality of new cars in general.
Any thought on how to get the speedometer working again?
Thanks
the a/c for this model.What should air temp be at the vent? The compressor is a remanufactured part from Carquest. Is there a more powerful compressor they could have used? I paid a pretty penny for this job so I want to make sure they got it right while the fix is still under warranty.
jwoll
Anyone know what combination of buttons to use to set the time?
Over the past seven years, I have kept my Aerostar in near new condition. Even replaced the axles and rebuilt the 8.5 differential. Installed two new Bosch O2 sensors, EGR valve, and many sensors before I traveled in it for two years. Installed 3/4 ton air shocks and pulled a small trailer through BAJA for over a year. The van runs great. Just seems starved for gas going up hill at 60 mph. In just the past few days it has started to starve for gas at idle so I am going to my friend's shop and put it on a dynotuner and a OBD II computer.
Once again thanks for the input.
Insidentally, should you decide to repair, I suggest that you look a little deeper into why it failed in the first place. The Ford compressor of this vintage has a bad rep for failure, but my experience has shown them very dependable. My '93 has 184,000 miles on it, still running R12. The system has not been open since '98 when I replaced a leaking O ring. From what I've read from others, I surmise that inadequate air flow accross the condensor (in front of radiator) is more likely the problem. Low air flow results in increased head pressures that the compressor has to overcome and can significantly shorten it's life. Check to see that the cavity between the radiator and condensor is still sealed. Is the rubber seal between the radiator and crossmember still there? Is the gap between the radiator and condensor still seaked underneath? If these are missing, a trip to Home Depot or such for a window A/C weatherstrip kit will get you some square foam strips with which to seal the openings. Also, invest in a new fan clutch. I was amazed at the difference when I replaced mine. Even though I was experiencing no real engine cooling problems at the time, the A/C output was significantly better, especially around town. Good luck!
The ECT code is probably just computer telling you that it has seen the coolant temperature outside the range it was expecting. You already told me that your thermostat is acting up. Probably not the stop leak but who knows? Spend a couple of bucks and get a new one. Sounds like you're right on target with your diagnosis, Good luck!
It stalled out and wouldn’t start. It starts now but the engine runs really
Rich. Black smoke out the exhaust. Does anyone know if there is a common?
Problem like this out there, that usually turns out to be the oxygen sensor or throttle position sensor etc. Like to norrow it down if possible thanks
stalls. mech looked at it,hooked up a computer but couldn't determine what was
causing the problem. It was developing this problem for two months. when I started
it, the engine would surge from almost stalling to idle. If i gave it gas for 10 seconds
it would run great the rest of the day. Last sunday it stalled after I started in the
morning and now runs bad with black smoke and will not Idle. I know
its one on the sensors just don't know which one. Have you had any engine
problems like this. Need to figure out best place to start. the van only
has 90k on it. thanks for any info
i have found my Ford Aerostar XLT (1987 - 3.0). in addition looks for I spare parts (steering wheel ect.) and accessories around the car to adorn know someone addresses of the accessory trade. does someone have information to a aerostar bodykit for me (source of supply)?
-> like this:
http://www.arcor.de/palb/alben/30/242530/1024_3333366532353562.jpg
http://www.arcor.de/palb/alben/30/242530/1024_6366663438616134.jpg
Thank you!
Greeting Peter
TIA,
Glenn
At the heater core they were a knuckle busting process, very hard to get to but not impossible after other stuff is moved out of the way. As I could not reach them to properly disconnect them I broke / cut them to get them off. I replaced the 'Y' hoses most cheaply by buying a straight hose from the parts store with the large quick disconnect for the heater core end and making up a 'new' 'Y' hose by using 3 pieces of straight hose connected by a commercially available in-line 'Y' connector and hose clips from the parts store. I cut up the old 'Y' hose and re-used the piece with the smaller connector that connects to the metal pipes above the engine. Best to leave that end in place on the engine so as to not disturb the seal.
Good luck!