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Ford Aerostar

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Comments

  • aeroman1aeroman1 Member Posts: 6
    Found the problem. Under the hood on the L/H side there is a black plastic cooling connector block, which also has a divertor valve, (which looks like a mini butterfly valve if your conversant with parts of a carburetter) to regulate the coolant (heat) flow in the heater core/rad.There are 4 hoses connected to it & there is a bell shaped valve attached to it with a plastic pipe plugged into one end of this valve.
    I just bridged this block (effectively removing & bypassing this little refinement). No leaks now & the heater runs fine without it. The valve is probably there ( I'm only guessing this) to reduce flow in the heater core & prevent cavitation or un-necessary flow from gradually damaging the heater core & eventually leaking.

    ATB Aeroman1 :shades: :):)
  • taurus1234taurus1234 Member Posts: 7
    and the speedometer moves wildly.

    I replaced the ABS/speed sensor in the differential. that helped for the first start engine stop engine cycle and then the problem returned after the next time I start the car and travel faster than 60 mph.
  • gbcatgbcat Member Posts: 1
    '91 Aero V6-4.0L, 140K mi - stalls both while idling and cruising; replaced all sensors(MAP, O2, throttle position switch, etc). Also replaced ignition control module, coil, fuel pump, spray cleaned injectors, and complete tune-up. No luck. As stalling is usually preceded by AM/FM cutting out for one or two seconds --- beginning to focus on electrical cause. Understand electrical issues are difficult and expensive to diagnose. Would appreciate any suggestions to help save this old family friend.
  • taurus1234taurus1234 Member Posts: 7
    I found the problem, it was the speedometer module in the instrument cluster. I got one from a wrecking yard for 16 and the car works fine.

    the mod must take the signal from the speed sensor and convert into MPH. It must then take that info and send it to the eec which uses it to shift the transmission and adjust inputs for the engine.
  • taurus1234taurus1234 Member Posts: 7
    If you haven't already I suggest you get a copy of a good detailed wiring diagram and then find out what the radio and the engine have in common. I ordered a manual on cd from someone on ebay 2weeks ago and it has yet to arrive in the mail, so I am reluctant to suggest ebay as a source. If I get the manual I will look and see if I can determine the connection between the radio and the engine.

    If I find something out I will post.

    good luck.
  • whitbmawhitbma Member Posts: 1
    Mark,
    Check the radiator fan clutch. It is supposed to "engage"
    when the air coming from the radiator is too hot. It engages and drives the fan at the same speed as the water pump. When it is not engaged, it just spins freely. When the engine is at idle and the a/c is running, the fan clutch should engage after a few minutes. When it does, the amount of air blowing through the radiator fan shroud should greatly increase. You can even hear more of a roar as it engages. When you shut off the engine when it is really hot, the fan should be hard to turn. A bad clutch will allow the fan to spin quite freely. The clutches tend to leak the fluid out on the radiator side. I think my clutch failed about 140,000 miles. The engine temp would increase when at a stoplight with the a/c going full blast.
    Not a hard job. By the way, is the fans shroud still intact? A partially clogged radiator could cause a similar problem.
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Member Posts: 17
    I had this problem on my Pontiac and was able to trace the problem to burned/corroded contact points on a firewall-mounted relay. Those dropping resistors (that look like springs) get more blame than they deserve. 99 times out of 100, if the "springs" aren't physically broken, they're fine. The relay I mentioned was in the electrical line just BEFORE the resistors: Power source/battery>fusebox>switch(s)>RELAY>resistors>fan motor. I removed the relay, removed the cover, then used 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to clean/polish the obviously-charred contact points. Reassembled & good as new!
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Member Posts: 17
    The problem began as intermittent. It would go for weeks/months with no problem. One day, no start - ignition/spark absent. A few hours later it might start & run fine - for days. One day it would start fine to run several stop-and-shop-and-go errands, then 2 hours later no go. Hot-vs-cold makes no apparent difference. I'm pretty good tracing electrical problems, but I'm not so hot at making myself smaller, into an undersized oriental, so I can reach into all the nooks and crannys Ford so GENEROUSLY allowed access to! (Think: inside access panel) My next move appears to be to remove the distributor so I can bench-test the ignition module it contains, because the problem has now become permanent. So far it appears that I losing more voltage than I should in tracing from point to point. The instructions I'm following say the reading should be no less than 10% of the MEASURED battery voltage. This leads me to believe I'm faced with a loose or corroded connection, or maybe a wire that's been partially worn through. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=processModel&P- arameters=026

    Thanks in advance.
    Jim
  • dunedunedunedune Member Posts: 1
    Hi also still have a 94 aerostar and love it/ Have never had any major problems except some electrical. Horn went out,, cruise went out and airbag lite flashes but I can live with that. Only replsced a heater hose and thermosta so far.

    But the big problem is my slidingside door. Had to replace the latch assembly and have done this but can not get it to engage the pin so the latches will close. works when I have it off the door and have reinsatlled it 2x with no luck

    any help would be appreciated.
  • taurus1234taurus1234 Member Posts: 7
    Another reason could be that the blades on the impeller for the water pump have worn away. This is what happened to me after my Aerostar had 180,000 miles on it. I changed the fluids, flushed the radiator, changed the clutch and thermostat and the car still over heated. Then I removed the water pump and found that the impeller was nothing more than a disk.
  • popatoppopatop Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Aerostar with a 3.0L engine, it has been running rough for some time now so I finally decided to replace the plugs and wires. Bad idea!!!! I started the engine when done and it sounded like a VW Bug. Checked the wires and remembered why you are supposed to do them one at a time. Put them on right, it will not start. Put them back the way I did it originally, it will not start. I decided to put my timing light on it but my timing light doesn't seem to work either----BAD LUCK. Can someone tell me if they know how to check the static timing without pulling the front cover, as this is a distributorless engine? The engine has over 200k miles on it.
  • bugaloobugaloo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 xlt with a 4.0, 2 times now when starting the motor it made a "poof" sound and blew the vaccum hose's off on the back drivers side of the motor. it happen's about once a month. what could be causing this ?
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Member Posts: 17
    Go to the AutoZone helpsite:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=processModel&P- arameters=026

    It's as good a place to find free, detailed info as I've found. It includes step-by-step procedures and has more (and far better) diagrams than any of the Clymer or Haynes manuals.

    Good luck, and please report back what you find.
  • butchybutchbutchybutch Member Posts: 1
    I have 245,000 miles so far with no major problems. I run my vehicles pretty hard and the 1995 AWD Ext van takes everything I can dish out and comes back for more. The gas mileage is kinda bad to me ,but it could be the way I drive it. I have dual exhausts, 18" wheels and in dash TV/DVD. I get only 12mpg most of the time. Out of town trips are about 18 - 20 mpg. :shades:
  • aero91staraero91star Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 91 aerostar, it is elect. 4WD, extended cab. But my antilock break light stays on (sometimes), also my 4wheel drive light keeps blinking, it will blink three times in a row and sometimes four times in a row. Does someone know what this means?

    :confuse: :confuse:
  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    Why pay when you can get it free? Go to:
    http://www.fordcds.com/
    I understand that it is suspended at this moment (Run up to it quota limit) but next month.
    HIH
  • jason76jason76 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Aerostar with 135,000 miles on it and I'm having this problem with it. The other day it ran fine then I decided to clean the engine. I've always kept my engine clean but I don't clean it all the time. Like once every few months or so I would clean the engine.

    This time after I cleaned it, It wont start up just by turning the ignition switch. I would have to step down on the pedal and then turn the ignition switch. After that it starts up and idles fine like nothing has happened. But thats not all. I noticed the it wont go into overdrive unless I floor it and it will stay in overdrive as long as I keep climbing speed. And while all of this is going on the Check Engine light keeps turning on and off.

    I unhooked the battery to maybe reset the computer but I don't think it will do any good. I have it unhooked now and haven't tried it yet.

    Anybody knows what could be the problem? Thanks.

    Jason
  • dfreeborndfreeborn Member Posts: 1
    I had the same issue on my 96. I tried adjusting the latch and replacing the pin to no avail.
    Had the dealer check it and they did the same.
    On the return to the dealership they found that the top track had cracked and required replacment. After replacement it works fine.
  • joeirish15joeirish15 Member Posts: 3
    For all of us Ford Aerowstar owners I have a website to go to and possibly discover solutions to your problems:
    www.AutoZone.com
    Click on the year and follow the directions to the place you need....ie: engine, electrical, etc.
    Good luck.....
  • fredewahlfredewahl Member Posts: 1
    Could someone advice me on where to get drivers side internal panel trim piece for the electric window controls?
    Part shows HP 1342 F29B-14A563 on inside. This hold the
    electric window switches and the door lock switches.

    just to add to the forum: I found a source of push-pins
    for the Ford door interiors: Imperial part 37035. box
    of 50 for about $19. www.imperialsupplies.com

    thanks for any help.
    Fred E Wahl
  • my1992darkbluemy1992darkblue Member Posts: 2
  • my1992darkbluemy1992darkblue Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1992 aerostar and I believe it has about 175,000 miles. When driving my sliding door rattles and sounds like it's going to come off any minute but it never does and it does shut flush. Has anyone had this problem? I love my van but fed up with the noise. Any suggestions/solutions would be great.
    Thanks
  • overloadedjc88overloadedjc88 Member Posts: 4
    I owned a 91 Aerostar that was wrecked in 1999. Let me say it was real clean with high mileage and was a better truck than the 94 that replaced it. But the 94 has been a good one. I still own it has a second car.
  • spud7spud7 Member Posts: 2
    Discovered the leak is coming from where the steering shaft connects to the Rack & Pinion. The leak is seeping out from between the shaft and the rack and pinion seal.

    Question: Can I remove the Shaft from the rack and pinion and move it aside and simply replace the seal and re-attach the shaft.

    Feedback greatly appreciated. :)
  • spud7spud7 Member Posts: 2
    I thought I saw a reply to my Questions regarding : FORD AEROSTAR 1993 3.0L, 6CYL, but now I can't seem to locate it. Someone please help get me back on track with how to locate responses to our questions.

    Question put a little differently: Pwr Str Fluid leaks where the steering column and the rack and pinion are are connected by a bolt. The fluid leaks out from between the Shaft and the seal.

    Big Question: Do I replace the seal or do I have to replace the Rack & Pinion Unit itself. I'm sure I can do the project I just need a little guidance.

    Thanks in Advance for any advice of any kind. :)

    Spud7
    Charles Ogle
  • aero91staraero91star Member Posts: 2
    My 91 ford aerostar awd van is having big problems. My van started to clunk, it felt just like I had a flat tire. At first it was when I would turn the wheels, now it is all the time. It mostly happens when you accelerate. We have already changed the front cv joints, but it did not help. What could it be? Has anyone else had problems like this, also at the stores, we can only buy a repair manual for 2wd models. Does anyone know where I can get one for my awd or are there even one for it? Please anyone help. :sick: :sick: :confuse:
  • joeirish15joeirish15 Member Posts: 3
    Go to this website: www.autozone.com
    There you can log in and find almost everything about ALL
    vehicles.
  • garbadeegarbadee Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem. It occurs even without the AC on but it does generally happen when the engine is hot and at low RPM (idle). Tried cleaning the Mass Airflow Detector wire with no luck. Took the intake off to bypass the filter, Mass Airflow Detector, and the entire plastic air intake hose. Still had the whine until the engine stalled (apparently if the Mass Airflow Detector is bypased the engine will not run). Any thoughts would be apprecaited because thie is very loud and annoying. Still runs great other than noise. 97 Aerostar 4.0L w/93k mlies.
  • blue81elcaminoblue81elcamino Member Posts: 1
    Is there a External band adjustment on a 1996 Ford Aerostar.
  • lewylewy Member Posts: 1
    My 95 Aerostar extended 4.0 L All wheel drive seems to be locked on. It has just finished snowing and the 4 wheel drive has been working great. But now it seems to be still in 4 wheel drive. Any suggestions?

    The heat sucks too. The temp gauge never raises above "C" except for on hills.

    The van is great you can pack in lots of crap in the back and still fit the wife, kids, dog cat etc.
  • konas_hutkonas_hut Member Posts: 1
    idk what kind of engine i have or trans... its an 89, base modle i think and v6 standard 5 speed. i just wanted to know what engine fits with the trans or what kind of other ford engine fits casue i would like to make it run strong again and use it. right now its weak but still runs... the odometer spun around back to 0's 4 times and its time for a new engine...... plz if anyone could help...
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    yes, two.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The Aerostar AWD system is always "on".

    30/70 torque split F/R normally and then 50/50 torque split once (rear, most likely) wheelslip/spin occurs. Will revert back to 30/70 within several seconds provided there is no wheelspin/slip in 50/50 mode.

    My guess is that some one has removed your thermostat, or it has failed "open", it happens.

    There is a recall for most Aerostars, check your VIN with the dealer.
  • raymond4raymond4 Member Posts: 1
    hi my name is raymond. i have a 93 ford aerostar and i believe that you have a 3.0L engine. if you look on the air cleaner housing it should tell you. if not there is a dealer tag somewhere on the engine compartment that will tell you what kind of engine you have.
  • bigharleybigharley Member Posts: 2
    You seem to be very knowledgable about Aerostars. I have rebuilt my 3.0 lt engine and have a question for you. The 1988 Aerostar I have is looking at it's 3rd transmission. It is the A4LD type. It is junk. My question is is there another Ford tranny that will fit my 3 lt engine. I know the Ranger has 3.0 lt engines and are rear wheel drive. Is there an other tranny that will fit the 3.0 lt block and go into my Aerostar witihout too much modifacation. I don't mind minor stuff like shorting the drive line and such. Can you be of any help or forward me to someone that can be of help.
    Thanks
  • bigharleybigharley Member Posts: 2
    The vacuum line are need to make the transmission shift correctly. When you step on the peddle, you are increasing the vacuum until thereis anough to work. Check your Vacum Lines.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The '97 AWD/4WD Aerostar has a 5 speed automatic transmission, but you'll probably need the engine/transmission ECU if you swap up to that.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Thinking seriously about putting together a short body AWD with the 3L but the '97 5 speed automatic to tow a TT. In the process of selling our 27' Four Winds MH, Ford E350 Super-Duty chasis and moving "down" to a lightweight. 16-18' Travel trailer.

    I was sort of considering a manual transmission since some of the early Aerostars came that way. Was there ever an Aerostar AWD with the manual tranny?
  • bonnie28bonnie28 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 ford aerostar electronic all-wheel drive 4.0L One of the fuel lines popped of the engine and I am not sure where it goes. the line comes down in the back of the motor and connects to a rubber elbow and hose the hose popped of and I can not find where it connects for the life of me. Please if anyone knows what I am talking about get back to me I'm kinda in a hurry. I have to take children home on saturday, so it is very important to fix my van.
  • waltchanwaltchan Member Posts: 124
    We have an excellent experience with our 1996 Ford Aerostar XLT 2WD with the 4.0L engine. Reliability is incredible (now 140,000), and it hasn't been into the repair shop for any engine work since 1999. It's still on the original engine and transmission. It's even more reliable than our 1995 Honda Accord LX (not a joke) that we already sold last month. Anybody has this same experience we are having? A trouble-free Aerostar for 8 years (excluding oil changes and tires).
  • jonzeejonzee Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 aerostar that won't start. Do you have the owner's guide? It says under the hood that it could be a reset button for the fuel pump, and the info for it is in the owner's guide. If you could look for it that would be great. thanks. Jon Zee.
  • jonzeejonzee Member Posts: 2
    The transmission fluid is added thru the tube where the trans dipstick is.
  • bladekunbladekun Member Posts: 2
    Hello. I have a 1989 Aerostar Eddie Bauer with about 135K on it. The original engine and transmission are still working great. This van actually runs a lot better then my other 1990 Toyota corolla DX wagon! :P However, I was wondering. One day while driving it, the transmission started to slip from a stop. The engine would race for a second, but then there was this sudden jerk. It was like if someone had kicked it forward. It had also slipped from 2nd to 3ed gear for a while. But now, it semens to run normal now. I checked the AT fluid, and it was full.

    My basic point here is, since this van has passed 120K miles, should I be worried about the transmission? How would I know when it would be signs for a overhaul? Can it fail at any time? :sick:

    Thanks!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    There are two transmission "brake band" adjustments external to the transmission.....at that mileage they will definitely need adjusting.
  • mathews1mathews1 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with the fuel system in the van. Apparently Ford designed the van so that the excess fuel dumps into the oil pan. When the van is driven for about a half hour the oil thins due to fuel/oil mixture and the oil pressure drops to zero when you come to a stop. Only by reving the engine will the pressure rise. If any one has experienced a similar problem with their Van I would appreciate knowing what the solution is.
  • knighton2knighton2 Member Posts: 1
    I need to know could I put a size smaller on a 1995 aerostar. Would it hurt anything? Tires, a size smaller than what came on them.
  • zabrezabre Member Posts: 2
    :sick: I have an aerostar mod 86 motos 2.8 I want to know if there is somebody that I can send the plans or guides of the motor or they can tell me to all precion the bomb of oil of the motor should be :cry:
  • pure1pure1 Member Posts: 4
    Hello. first let me say I have had Two aerostars the First one was great but my wife didn't understand that when the guages and lights say check engine thats what they mean. The only thing that went wrong initially was a busted water hose. I installed a new engine and she did the same thing again I guess I should have changed all the water hoses too. I traded it for a dodge caravan kept that crap for about a year and I had to have another aerostar. I have had it now for nine years and it is still going strong. I only wish to find and Eddie Bauer to get the seats out if it.
  • pure1pure1 Member Posts: 4
    have a 1994 Aerostar Extended XLT W/3.0 engine are there any off the shelf parts to get more H/P from then engine? Like intake manifolds or headers for this van. I have heard of of performance Chips. Also my vehicle has the two bench seats, does anyone know if the two captains chairs like in the Eddie Bauer will fit where the first bench seat is in mine using the same mounting holes in the floor?
  • jamcjamc Member Posts: 11
    Hi there, I have 93 Aerostar 3.0l with 207,000 miles with original engine and tranny. Great van no major problems just routine maintenance every 3,000 miles. The thing is, it is starting to overheat with apparently reason. A friend of mine told that maybe it needs to be put on time, but I really don't what it could be. Any suggestions?
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