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Thanks
Unfortunately I can't get a definitive answer on what makes up the towing package for that year (1998).
I don't know what else I can do besides calling the dealer. But I get a different answer from each dealer ...which proves they don't really know the true answer.
Boy am I frustrated.
Well, today I had a long-awaited call returned from a dealer that has a good repuation. It took 6 days for them to call me back and they're answer was "We have no information on the components of the 1998 Venture towing package."
Whatta joke. Isn't the dealer the final authority on this stuff? Even when I called the Chevrolet Company itself, they said the dealer is the one with this info.
Any other advise on where I could find the answer?
Thanks everyone.
I sell hitches and it sounds like you have enough information to be dangerous (to yourself).
The answer to your question depends upon the terrain you drive, the load you are going to pull, and how often you are pulling it and duration.
Going all aftermarket I would go with everything you have mentioned. Put the hitch, wiring harness on your van and see how it does. I would then go with the trans cooler and a thermostat that opened just a little sooner than stock. I would then push you into getting a pusher fan on the front of the stock rad. As for the load, I would go ahead and get a set of load leveler air baffles.
I want to know to not ruin my van towing 3200-3500 pounds.
Please note that I already have the load-levelers, hitch, and harness.
Thanks!
I have Traction Contral and it is INVALUABLE in the winter, here in PA. When you pull out from a stop, the whells will not slip. Some folks get stuck going up slight hills in icy weather but TC will not.
Also, pulling out into heavy traffic with snow or ice will be much much safer.
The funny thing is that I never gave TC a thought before it came as a bonus on my Venture. Now I will never buy another vehicle without it. Its use comes up more than I ever thought.
I can only assume that wintery condition in NY for you is even more of a reason to insist on having it.
Don't settle for somethign without it if you have a choice!
Similarly on front struts any info would useful.
Thanks
Second quote was over $1000
Has any one experienced this noise?
My feeling is that the self leveling device needs some WD 40 on the bushes which probably dried out a little. I suspect that when the tank is filled up to the 25 gallons the weight of the fuel forces it to move and because it has been "under pressure" creates the noise.
Blower motor resistor assembly replacement:
1. Remove the right side I/P insulator.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor.
3. Remove the blower motor mounting screws.
4. Remove the blower motor from the HVAC module assembly.
5. Disconnecte the electrical connector from the blower motor resistor.
Important. Only loosen both of the forward blower motor resistor mounting scrrews. The blower motor resistor mounting holes are slotted.
6. Loosen the forward blower motor resistor mounting screws.
7. Remove the rearward blower motor resistor mounting screw. Remove the blower motor resistor from the HVAC module assembly.
Install in reverse order.
This is from the factory manual. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of these instructions.
This isn't the air filter to the engine is it?
I hope not becuase mine was horrendous!
If these are to the air conditioning/heating, I wonder if they're available at autoparts stores.
The manual for the 2000 version, makes it all seem quite simple, but you need the strength of a gorilla to get the cover back enough to get the old one out and the new one in without disconnecting any of the hoses.
Last time I found it beneficial to remove coolant recovery tank and the bar it is clipped onto. This bolts to the frame at the front and rear of the engine compartment. On the 2000 there is a cylindrical attachment which gets in the way if you do not.
This gives a good working area from the top of the air cleaner box and then you are free to push the cover back. I have also removed the air intake hose from the engine end to relieve the pressure.
One way or the other it is about an hour or so.
Always welcome for any other ideas
Ok.
Purchase a K&N filter and only have to clean it half a much. Plus better filtering with better air flow in.
Rgds
Steve, Host
I have already got the Fram Filter for the next go around, but will check it out further.
Like I always tell people interested: You cant force more air in if you cant get more air out.
After all, the less resistance your engine has the quicker it will give you power.
zmartha
7,380 miles: Belt squeal, serpentine belt replaced.
12,130 Miles: Pass. Rear door motor assembly replaced, door opens while driving (recall), Driver side rear door latch replaced, Serpentine belt and tensioner replaced (belt squeal), Rear brakes replaced, Rough idle, can’t duplicate. Front suspension bushing replaced(noise) alignment checked.
14,473 miles, Serpentine belt replaced(squeal,chirping).
14,990 miles, Water leaking at rear hatch, Rear intake leaking oil( oil pan bolts, oil filter, drain plug tightened) Questioned fix and was told that’s how they fix Honda’s., Front alignment( Paid by me)
17,578 miles, Serpentine belt squealing and chirping( belt replaced) Water in LR taillight(replaced)
19,696 miles, AC pressure valve blew out.(replaced) AC air is warm and spitting water out vents. This is Aug. 2003
19,826 miles, Told AC is working Fine, use recirculate to cool Vehicle. Water coming out of vents normal. Was told no problem with serpentine belt, tensioners, pulleys etc. Belt squealing and chirping normal. Some belts do this(This is 4th belt since new) At this time I made the mistake to contact GM Customer Service, then the BBB. Both said they would help me neither did. All I have ever got is to be told to take it in for repairs. Dah! That’s what I have been doing.
20,752 miles, AC recharged, Vents stopped spitting water, Air cool at times but not close to what it was, mostly warm and humid. Belt squeal was used on belt many times and did not fix. Belt noise to be fixed for last time Per area Service Manager. Dealer saturated the belt with belt lube, then told me they could not duplicate problem. Belt still squealing and chirping. E-brake not holding, brakes not stopping van. Rear brake parts fell apart.
21,380 miles, Belt problem addressed again, pulleys not lined up properly, seems to fix. AC still not working right, told cannot fix unless hot outside. Begged them to fix so I could travel to Arizona and Florida, they refused. Pleaded with them to compare to other like vans( I did) they refused. 60 degrees outside, drive all day long will AC full blast and not be cold.
Arbitration Hearing, IMPARTIAL Tech. Determines AC is working properly( 35 Degrees outside) Failed to mention noise in vent for which there is a TSB on. Offered extended warranty, Told GM I couldn’t get it fixed with the one I had.
23,296 miles, Loss of power, bad gas mileage, Oil leak, anti-freeze in oil, rough Idle( intake gasket replaced) engine oil overfilled 3/4 Qt. AC checked(warm outside) No Problem found. Although dealer claims they did not work on AC, works a little better.
24,000 miles to current 25,600 miles, Oil leak continues, Oil dripping from engine since May 2003. Engine stumbles or bucking while driving, Transmission slams into gear and slips. Driver window slow or almost stops midway. AC Blows warm humid air with moldy smell. Before AC was repaired you could have made ice-cream and van smelled new. I had to turn rear unit off cause kids were too cold. Dealers have never driven Van more than 2-3 miles. Vehicle never wrecked or abused and serviced above normal.
25,848 miles, Engine problem caused by spark plug wires not attached properly when intake was done. Bracket not connected and wires shorted out on egr tube. Had AC checked by a private tech. To confirm AC was not working properly. Then had GM dealer check again. Both agreed it was not right and has low charge. After 3 last chance to repair and 5 attempts to get fixed in almost a year I had an attorney file for repurchase under lemon law. GM refused my claim on that primary concerns have been fixed and AC problem cannot be duplicated. GM has flat out refused to fix the AC and properly diagnose problem since Aug. 03. At times AC vents look like a steam iron and now Recirculate/outside air switch will not work. I have gone to different dealers. Yes this is a true story, I wish it wasn’t.
29,000 miles After AC not right for over a year, 3 Last chance for repair notices, BBB hearing, and lemon law Attorney saying I had a weak case to do anything I put my tail between my legs and took Van in to be fixed again. The Van was there for 3 weeks. Driver window regulator replaced after a year of refusal. Oil leaking for over a year: Rear engine main oil seal replaced. Interior panel clips replaced. Since wires were replaced mpg on highway has dropped by 5 mpg, no problems found. Dealer claims AC had low charge and leak. Could not find leak and charged system and claims it is working fine. As soon as I got Van back I noticed AC is almost as bad as it was before just a little colder at times. I drove 30 miles from the dealer to my house with AC on full and was not cold. When I got home rear air was 75- 80 degrees, front was 50-55 degrees. Gm has spent more money on repair attempts and fighting to prove there is nothing wrong with AC than it would cost to replaced the whole system. It has not worked properly since Aug. 03. Last response from GM is there is no issue with AC problem. This is short version of my ownership of this Van.
Too bad. I'll bet you won't buy another.
;-)
If you are getting the same "clicking" noise, then I would check the "negative" cable for a good ground after checking the battery voltage.
Thanks!
Secondly in the overhead switches as well as the rear washer and TC switches the lights have gone. Can the bulbs in th switches be replaced or would it be a case of new switches all round?
Will crank up the dealer tomorrow to see what they have.
Rgds
Thanks
Steve, Host
The dealer has been paying dumb all week. Left the AllData info in their drop box this am and will test them on this before they shake me down for a new alternator.
Will get it back Thursday, currently in the body shop after (1) being hit by a flying mail box and (2) backing out the garage without the hatch not securely locked. In this case it crept up and KO'd the garage door off its tracks, broke the two lift gate supports (fitted these my self $35 each) and new rear tail light assembly from Rock Auto $35.
If there is any consolation it was a 2 for 1 on the tailgate
If the drivers seat is power operated, move it to the most forward position and then to its most lowest position. Same should apply for a non powered version and you may want to do same with passenger seat.
Then raise the seat back to the normal driving position. This generally has been found to re set the air bag display.
Restart the engine and the air bag light should flash for 6 or 7 times then go out.