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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
Good luck,
Mark
They don't cost much, so I think I'll put some new rotors on.
Seems rotors can't be re surfaced like they could 20 years ago.
I see two Torx bolts on the back of the calipers.
My question is: what is holding on the rotor?
Do I need to remove the wheel bearing bolt?
Any advice appreciated, I don't have a manual for the van.
2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition at least 6 times within 10 seconds to enter the programming mode. The parking lamps will flash to indicate that the programming mode has been entered.
3) Turn the key to the accessory position. All previous key codes will now be erased.
4) Press any button on the remote transmitter once. The parking lamps will flash twice to acknowledge acceptance.
5) to enter additional remote transmitters, unlock and then lock the driver side door using the master window/door lock/unlock switch.
6) Press any button on the additional transmitters. The parking lamps will flash twice to acknowledge acceptance.
7) Open the driver door to exit the programming mode; the parking lamps will flash twice to confirm exiting the programming mode.
Good luck! Report back if this works.
Most rotors can still be turned once I think, but it may not be cost effective.
Try a Search This Discussion in here too.
Steve, Host
attaches to the proportioning valve that senses the weight of the load I'm carrying and adjusts rear braking accordingly. The mechanic at Mercury dealer saw that part was broken and probabily assumed I had no rear brakes.
For $21.50 brakes plus cleaned up the brake dust, adjusted the rear brakes, and saved me $360.00.
on the cost of parts and labor for a new proportional valve.
Thank you brakes plus!!!
John
Sopman
I purchased a new lock cylinder assembly that comes with 2 keys which appears to be just the thing I need.
Problem is I'm not sure how to remove the old one to replace it. I can easily remove the lower part of the steering column plastic housing cover, But I'm not clear on how to remove the upper part which actually surrounds the ignition. Also not sure if this even needs to be removed as there is a small notch in the housing that may allow removal of the lock cylinder.
Can anyone provide the tip needed to remove/release the old one from the steering column? Is a special tool required?
Thanks in advance..
Might be related to the "key paralysis" problem reported in thread above. Might also be related to the ten pounds of keys I have dangling from the ignition...
The photos in the book show this being done without the steering wheel but that may have been just to get better shots of the procedure.
I have never done this so I can't tell you for sure it will work. But Haynes is usually right : )
Good luck!
More specifically, do they all have the same seat slots in the floor? Will the bench seat line up correctly?
Any info would be GREATLY appreciated since I'm in the process of buying a Quest and I really need that 2nd row bench, but I really want all the features of the SE/SEL model.
FWIW, I've got a 2000 Estate with captain's charis, and I can tell you what the supports look like... I'm almost certain they're different from the bench -- which I haven't seen -- but they may be compatible if you can scare up a two-seater bench from another car.
-Mathias
I have researched extensively and I begun shopping at dealerships but so far haven't found one with both models to compare side by side. These vans sell so fast in the New York metro area that by the time they post the ads online, the vehicles are gone!
So I figured if anyone knows for sure, it could save me a lot of trouble.
Sopman, both cigar (hey, that's what my manual calls them ) outlets are 20A fuses. The front one should be fuse #6 in the cabin fuse block that has 32 terminals - the fuse block underneath and to the left of the steering wheel.
Jmarch, doesn't sound normal to me. Search for throttle body in here just to rule that out before you investigate the tranny or idle further.
I just did 900 miles to Reno and back to Boise and got 24 mph on one tank, less on the others (A/C and ~75 most of the way). Also rolled over 105,800 miles. I accidently put $3 worth of premium in at one station - that high test gallon and a half of gas will probably throw the whole van off-kilter!
Steve, Host
Here is a picture of the slots for an '00 SE with captain's chairs:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jreisner3/album?.dir=/d486&.src=ph&.tok=ph8akZDBobHiuuRY">
Does it look like your bench seat would fit in there?
Thanks for the help
(I just looked at the slots since I threw my second row bench away back in '99 :shades: ).
Steve, Host
FYI, I was at a Nissan Dealership last night comparing two different Quests, one with captain's chairs and one with the 2nd row bench.
I guess the guy really wanted to make a sale, since he offered to try switching it for me.
So at my mechanic's advice I measured first (it was 27" from one latch slot to the other) and when it looked like it would fit, I helped him and lo and behold - it worked!
He offered to sell me either one, but I told him I only wanted the SE and he's going to try to get one in for me. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
As far as the slots for the bench not going so close to the door, Nissan compensated for this (and in the process making them cheaper to produce both body styles - since they would only need to add 4 more additional slots in the captain's models) by making the seat posts/latches off center towards the left side of the vehicle, to allow space to walk through the seats to the back. Notably, Chrysler also adds a lift forward mechanism for their captain's seats which is useful for access to the back when the van is full. I think the Odyssey and Sienna have a slide-forward mechanism for access to the back, which would have been nice on the Quest.
So now hopefully I'll wind up with a new van with one bench and two captain's seats to save for the future! :shades:
I did swap seats around between two different trim lines of a Voyager and Caravan back in the late 80's so I guess I shouldn't be that surprised. I definitely don't have enough extra slots to add a captain's chair in my '99 GXE though .
Nice detective work!
Steve, Host
Question is......if we leave the light on and try to trade it in, are we going to see only pennies on the trade in? Would it be better to get the light turned off, and then trade it in?
SirMaverick
I have had this a few times. My van dies if I drive it for more than 30 minutes at 5000 feet at 100º or at 9000 feet and 80º. My first guess is that it a vapor lock problem but no one that I have talked to locally (Denver) has any clue about this.
I'm thinking of replacing the fuel pump, but would like to know if it would really make any difference before I pull it out. I know it's inside the fuel tank so that has to come out first.
Has anybody else come up with a solution to this???
Also the owner claims he got some water in the gas once that causeed the injector problem, it has been parked since then.
I checked the alternator and found that it goes up to 14.5 and down to 13.5 rate.
I took to the dealership again asking them to check it. They want me to install new battary cables, which I have done few month ago.
can anyone tell me what should it be......
cmadiga
I would be most concerned about the injector problem. Can you work on it before you purchase it? Two things to try. First of all, do a compression check on all cylinders. If you have good compression, everything else can be fixed fairly cheaply. The major concern here is that all that fuel dumping into that cylinder washes away the oil from the cylinder wall and the rings in that one going bad. Doing it for just a little while shouldn't hurt it, but if it's been driven that way for a while, definitely check compression.
The second thing to try is to swap the injector with another one from another cylinder. Don't know how those rear injectors are to get out, but it's worth a try. Maybe even pick up a junk yard part just to try. Can't cost too much, I wouldn't think.
Good luck.
I've even heard of people hot wiring the light to the oil pressure light. That way it comes on when the key is on, and goes off when the engine starts.
Proceed at your own risk.
I had the same problem with my nissan sentra.
It took me around 6 months to figure it out. Check the button on your Keyless fob.
not from outside from inside. you will see a small switch with a miniature button it, if it pops up after you depress it then you have another problem.
but if you cannot depress it you probably need to change that.
Any help would be appreciated.
http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/
http://home.earthlink.net/~vqfaq/
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jreisner3/detail?.dir=/88a6&.dnm=2848.jpg&.src=ph
It looks like it's on the back side of the engine closer to the windshield.
I've had the '93-'98 manual for years, but since I just bought a new '02 Quest, I just ordered the '93-'01 version for about $20 with shipping. If you're interested, I'll post the link.
Anyone have a clue?
Thanks
bploe