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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • Hi guyz..
    I have a 96 villager LS with 86K on it now.. It drives well but does have some of the problems mentioned by others..
    At speeds above 65- 75, it starts shaking.. you can feel strong vibrations in steering.tried balancing tires, didn't work.. any thoughts?
    The captain seats in the middle row make pretty loud rattling sound.. looked into the clamps and fixtures, can't figure out how to get rid of this..
    now the biggest one is the sticky pedal.. always after idling the pedal gets stuck and after pressing hard i have to take those jerky starts.. the other day i hit my friend's car doing this.. tried oiling the cables etc, didn't work...
    please let me know if others also are having similar problems and whats the solution you found.. Thanks
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Maybe an alignment in addition to the balancing you've done?

    The sticky pedal sounds like the old throttle body needs cleaning. That's a common issue. Try an Advanced Search (linked on the left) for throttle body and you'll find a lot of messages with cleaning info. It's easy enough to do-it-yourself if you don't want to take it to a mechanic.

    Some people also have the vibration problem (ditto on the search recommendation), but I don't recall seeing a solution.

    Steve, Host
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    With two different Quests, I've experienced vibration problems, and in both cases I was able to fix to my satisfaction. Sorry if I haven't shared this here before, but here are my experiences:

    - My 2002 Se Quest had some vibration, when I first purchased it. I was told this was probably due to tires being out of round, and I should just drive out the flat spots....

    However, being that I have little patience, I took it directly Goodyear tire shop the day after purchased; and after diagnosing that two of the tires had flats spots, they switched them out at no charge. All covered on the warranty. No vibrations since then.

    - With my first Quest (94 GXE), I once experienced a very bad vibration problem(at speeds over 45 mph) immediately after having my brakes pads replaced. It turned out the rear brakes had been improperly adjusted.

    I took it right back to the dealer and they adjusted the brakes. This resolved the problem immediately. I've heard it's a little tricky adjusting the rear brakes on the older model Quest. So you may want to take it to a certified Nissan tech if you think you need a rear brake adjustment.

    - Lastly there's the issue of the middle row seat vibration. I've noticed the upper part of my captain chairs vibrate a little when going over bumps, although, have to say this personally has not been a problem for me.

    Mercury actually has a tsb out on it for the Villager, and my dealer offered to use that solution, but I declined because it involves putting weights into the seats. I prefer to keep my van seats as light as possible. I'll post the details I have of the Mercury Villager TSB in my next message. Hope this is helpful.

  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    00-24-7 001127 Second Row Seat - Vibrates/Rattles

    MERCURY: 1999-2000 VILLAGER

    ISSUE: The second row two-passenger bench or second row bucket seats on some vehicles may shake or vibrate noticeably while driving on rough roads or over bumps. This condition may be due to the inability of the vibration damper inside the seat back to adequately dampen seat shake

    ACTION: On bucket seats, replace the production vibration damper in the seat back with a revised damper. On 2-passenger bench seats, replace the single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in the repair kit. The revised damper(s) will reduce the amount of seat vibration or shake on rough roads or over bumps.


    1. Fold seat back down flat, remove four (4) fasteners securing seat back tray and remove tray.
    2. Unhook trim cover J-hooks and pull cover back to access vibration damper located near top of seat back frame.
    3. Raise headrest, remove four (4) bolts that secure damper, push down on foam padding to provide clearance and remove damper.


    4. Install revised Damper YF5Z-12110A00-AA (2 required per vehicle) using the original attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 7-12 Nm (62-106 lb-in) making sure damper is fully seated.
    5. Reposition plastic film, trim cover and attach J-hooks.
    6. Reinstall seat back tray and fasteners.
    7. Repeat above steps on remaining second row bucket seat.

    Replace single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in Damper Kit XF5Z-12110A00-HA.
    XF5Z-12110A00-HA Damper Kit includes:
    ^ One (1) Vibration Damper (RH)
    ^ One (1) Vibration Damper (LH)
    ^ Six (6) Attaching Bolts
    ^ One (1) Instruction Sheet


    002407A Replace Second Row Seat 0.5 Hr. Vibration Dampers

    Part numbers

    YF52- 12110A00-AA Damper (Bucket Seat) (2 required per vehicle)

    XF5Z-12110A00-HA Kit - Damper (Bench Seat)


    Also, to throw in my usual disclaimer. It's possible that this procedure may have been updated/changed since this was published.

    So not a bad idea to check with your Mercury dealer service, to make sure this information still applies.... Okay? Good luck.

    Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Thanks Revka!

    Steve, Host
  • Can anyone tell me, do you have to take your vehicle to the dealer where you bought it for warranty work?

    The dealer that has my van, and has had it for 3 weeks now, is terrible. I'm not the first to say that, I've been hearing it alot lately. There is another dealer close to me and wanted to take it there, could I do that?
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    You are not required to take your vehicle to the dealer where you purchased it to have warranty work completed. Pick the one that takes care of you best.

    That said, the dealer who sold you the vehicle is more likely to provide a loaner car or other perks than is someone who did not make any money on the sale of the vehicle.
  • #1225: If your "brake" red light on the dash is on, or comes on when hard cornering or hard braking, immediately check the level of your brake fluid. Fill it up to the full line, or very slightly over the line. There seems to be a sensor in the reservoir that gets active when the level is about half way down between full and minimum.
    #1230: As others have said, it's likely the tires. Have you rotated them lately, and then the shaking or vibrating started? Regardless, you may need to purchase new tires. To help ease the pain, sell the old tires to a used tire dealer, if there is usable tread left.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    what do you mean by the common exhaust manifold problem? I heard that earlier models, 93-95, had exhaust manifold bolt problems. Are you saying this was done to your 98?
  • Thanks for the info on the dealer fixing something. I didn't think I had to take it to the one I bought it from, if I ever get it back from them, then I'll probably try that the next time. And I understand about the perk thing...hehe.

    The brake light and battery light issue i asked about on post #1225, no the lights came on and stayed on after there was a water leak of sorts into the passenger side floor. I'd say the wiring harness was full of water or the like and it's shorting or there's a ground problem, but they can't seem to find it. I just wondered if anyone had experienced that, so I could tell the "professionals" how to fix it! :) thanks for the help.
  • pda97pda97 Posts: 91
    Does anyone know why Mercury charges over $12 for an oil filter for a 99 Villager compared to $6 that Nissan charges for a 99 Quest ? This is what I found out when I called around. What's going on at Ford ?
  • flynn4flynn4 Posts: 7
    I usually keep the passenger side seat folded flat. This eliminates the noise. It isn't bad in the driver side 2nd row seat. I will have to check with our dealer on the fix, however. Thanks for the information.
  • I finally got my Villager back from the dealer. I had to get stern and make a few threats but they managed to get it back to me with a diagnosis the next day. They say that they found a wire in the driver's side in the bumper that had a nick in it that had corroded and caused the short. They replaced and said the lights immediately went out. I spoke with them concerning the vibration. If I pushed the issue, which I will before my 36,000 miles are up and the extended warranty kicks in and I have to pay the $50 deductible, they will do the necessary fix with the TSB posted above. Their answer to it was that because vehicles are made so much more lighter now than they were that the vibration has to go somewhere. When vehicles were made out of heavier material it absorbed more of the vibration. Who knows.... but that's the scoop on the vibration issue.

    I will say one more thing that most current Villager owners might already know, but the service manager said that they rarely get a Villager in to be worked on. He said they are very reliable vehicles and rarely have any problems. He said with proper maintenance it should last you for a long time. The nicked wire was just a fluke thing that happened when the vehicle was built.
  • desaljsdesaljs Posts: 24
    I took my 99 Quest SE to an independent mechanic to see if the rough idle/exhaust popping could be solved. They felt it was a vacume leak and listened carefully with an automotive stethoscope and felt it was near the intake plenum. There are 2 hoses behind it and felt that would be the problem. They discovered that the intake plenum itelf was warped and the gasket was leaking. The hoses in that location were OK. They have ordered a replacement part (it is made from plastic) from Nissan and expect to have it in several days. They will re-assemble and see if this solves the problem. Will keep you posted. I feel I am close to resolving this issue.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Thanks for the update. I hope this works... and look forward to hearing the details.

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • desaljsdesaljs Posts: 24
    The independent shop I took my '99 Quest SE to for the rough idle problem might have it fixed !! They replaced the plastic intake plenum that was warped and causing a vacuum leak. They also relaced a bunch of gaskets with this repair. As far as I can tell, the problem is solved. When in Drive and stopped, the idle is smooth and RPM's about 500 to 700 and even. In Park at idle, the RPM's are just under 1000 and not as smooth, but still seems OK. I need to spend more time driving it to be sure.

    Can anyone tell me what RPM should be in Park? A little under 1000 seems high to me and it would be nice to hear from other owners what their RPM's are in Park.

    Will post again after I have some time to drive it and further evaluate how it runs.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    My '99 GXE is almost always right at 850 rpm at idle in park. I used to think that was high....

    Steve, Host
  • desaljsdesaljs Posts: 24
    Thanks for the reply. Do you know if idle can be adjusted on these vans. With all the computer control in today's vehicles, a simple adjustment like this can be difficult to perform. By the way, the shop that fixed my van told me that when he called the Nissan parts distributer and asked if they had the intake plenum in stock, they told him they had 35 on hand. What does that mean?? I was always a little concerned about plastic parts in the engine compartments of motor vehicles..........
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I recall asking my service guy about my idle when my van was brand new, and was basically told not to worry about it.

    I'm reluctant to hazard a guess for you since I'm not much of a motorhead. There are a lot of sensors that may affect the idle, not just an adjustment screw somewhere.

    The well-supplied plentum stock may just mean they never break! I used to go through a "rubber bellows" (really plastic) every six months on a 74 Volvo I had. It would crack and leave me stranded, and I've hated Volvos ever since (I hold long grudges, LOL).

    Cars are so much more dependable now I wouldn't worry about the plastic stuff around the engine compartment.

    Steve, Host
  • Hi All,

    I just got my 98 Villager GS for 2 months and problems starting to come up. The villager only have about 50k miles.

    The first problem is the light on the dash where PRND12 doesn't work. The rest of the dash works (Speedometer, Tachometer, Gas, Temp, etc...).

    The second problem that I have is the front blower is not working. the last time that work was a week ago and I haven't drive my minivan for a week, and now the blower doesn't work, I've try AC, Heat, Fan, nothing comes out, but the rear blower still works. I've check the fuse panel under the Hood Release and all the fuse are ok. Can anyone give me any suggestions as to what can cause these problems and the solution. Thanks in Advance. btw, I am in the NYC area and we just had a SNOW Storm about a week ago.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Check out the 5 or 6 posts starting here:

    mokyde Aug 20, 2002 12:09pm

    and here's one about dash lights:

    steve_ Nov 11, 2002 8:41pm

    Steve, Host
  • Thanks for the links Steve, I will see if I will check out the resistor tomorrow and hopefully they I can pickup it up from autozone. Do they have aftermarket ones or should I wait till weekday and get it from the dealership? As for the bulb on the dash, I hit my dash real hard once and it did light back up and then it went out again. Hopefully its just something loose. Once again, Thank You for your help.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Ah, that I don't know. Worth a shot at the parts store since it'll be cheaper there I'd guess. A couple of phone calls should do it. If you go tugging on wires underneath the dash, be careful you don't set off the airbag. Most of those wires should be bright yellow, from what I hear.

    Steve, Host
  • fallenwfallenw Posts: 1
    I am not getting any hot air from the rear blower in my 1999 villager sport (just bought it last week), only cold air at all 4 speeds.
    Hot air is coming from the front blower at all 4 speeds (now that I replaced the front blower resistor).
    Is the rear blower for cold air/AC only or is it supposed to have hot air also ?
    Any ideas ?


    this forum is great, I found 2 problems with the van, sticking gas pedal and front fan only working on number 4 speed, typed both problems into this forum and found the solutions, did the fixes and now both problems are gone.
    Keep up the good work everybody.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,733
    the overhead ducts are only for AC. There are other ducts (somewhere down lower) for heat.

    2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • 107main107main Posts: 33
    pda97 asked why Nissan oil filters are half of those a Merc dealer. I do not know, but I needed a very small part for my Villager and priced it at Merc around $17 bucks, got it a Nissan for $10. Same piece in box marked differently. Pays to shop around. On the other hand, I got my Villager for $4500 off sticker, could not match that at Nissan last year.
  • yespadsyespads Posts: 8
    I purhcased 2000 mercury villager sport van 4 months back. I had the below problems.

    1) At speed 70+ on highways, I get the vibration. Service person asked me to change the tires and I did it. The problem still exist. Took the vehicle three times to the dealer shop and still it is not fixed.

    2) Getting very poor milage. In city it is like 12 to 13 and on high ways it is 15-16. When I compared the same with Nissan Quest owner, he mentioned that he is getting around 15-16 in town and 20+ on high ways. Dealer mentioned that there is no problem with the van.

    What could be the problem?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Where is the vibration? Some have problems with the middle row vibrating that's been hard to fix. Other guesses could include dragging brakes or a bent wheel.

    How many miles on your van?

    Steve, Host
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    The cruise control on my 1999 Villager Estate quit working last fall. The light on the dash comes on when the cruise is activated and goes off when de-activated (either by the control switch or the brake pedal), but the control does not hold the current speed.

    Has anyone had similar issues or have an idea where I should begin to look?

    As to mileage and vibration, we get about 15-16 MPG in town and 20-22 on the highway. Vibration is greater than in our 1993 Villager, but not unbearable. I do think that there are too many squeeks and rattles for a vehicle of this price.

    We currently have about 55,000 miles on the odometer.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Not sure if this is related, but I had a similar problem with my Quest cruise control not engaging. Turned out to be due to a burned out brake light. Once the brake light was replaced, the cruise control worked fine.

    One other thing, it also turned out there was an actual short in the brake light switch... and it eventually had to be replaced. Everything (both cruise/brake lights) have been working fine, since the brake light switch was replaced. Have you checked your brake lights lately? ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
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