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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems
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Comments
Also will the bench seat safety belt still work???
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanx Steve
Steve, Host
Nope, haven't changed the timing belt or the plugs for that matter. I'm slow. :-)
Actually I may just ignore the belt until it breaks.
Steve, Host
Also are the bucket seats model or year specific. Would Nissan Quest Bucket seats work?
Thanx Steve
My other car is a VW Passat and ugly things happen when that timing belt breaks so I intend to change it as soon as the 60K power train warranty is up even though it calls for 105k change interval.
Steve, Host
Solution: warm up the car before you drive... :shades:
Sometime I found it hard to crank the van. The rmp drop to 500 right after the crank, then i must press the gas pedal in order to keep it going. If i dont press the gas pedal, I have to crank it again with pressing the gas pedal, any idea how to solve this?
I am having a problem with my throttle body senser I know that is what it is because I had a test ran on it and the reason why my check engine light is on is because of something to do with the throttle body senser. The problem Im having is when driving it loses power. Secondly, when at a complete stop and i apply gas to it when going from 1st gear to 2nd it shifts hard almost like im getting hit from behind. Now, when you look under the hood the sensor that is hooked up to the throttle body just hangs there and im not sure where it goes its just dangling however when you life up the sensor you hear it idle higher. Is there anyone that could help please..thanks in advance.
Can be expensive.... I was lucky when I purchased the car, I bouth the extended warranty
I HAVE A 1997 OLDS SILHOUETTE.BOTH OF MY FRONT POWER SEATS QUIT
WORKING AT THE SAME TIME. FUSES -CIRCUIT BRAKERS GOOD.
EVEN HAVE POWER TO THE SWITCHES. BUT SEATS DO NOTHING, LIKE THEY ARE GETTING NO POWER??ALSO THE POWER DOOR JUST MAKES A CLICKING SOUND IN THE REAR, NO MOVEMENT?
ANYONE KNOW WHAT I CAN CHECK FOR???
THANKS
I checked with Nissan and they couldn't tell me anything about those plugs. I'm about to install a new radiator and solve both problems at once.
The coolant leak at the throttle body is at the cold/high idle valve portion of the throttle body. If you look on the forward side of the throttle body just below the intake boot hose clamp, you will see a small coolant line going into a brass housing bolted to the throttle body itself. This brass housing and the actuator sticking out of it is what gives you your cold/high idle and subsequent idle down when the engine is warmed up.
As the engine/coolant warms up, this actuator extends and allows the throttle butterfly to "come down" off the cam plate connected to the brass actuator and the engine idles normally.
When the engine cools down, the actuator retracts and the throttle butterfly rides back up higher onto the cam, opening the butterfly slightly, and causing your desired higher idle when cold.
Additionally, there has been much discussion about the timing belt on these engines. You don't want it to break. They are indeed "interference" engines. Also, while you are in there for the timing belt change, go ahead and change your cam and crank seals. A small leak on any of these seals can go undetected for quite some time. The problem is when they do leak, the oil goes right onto your timing belt, causing reduced life expectancy. Not good.
Steve Cutchen's FAQ
We're talking about the older Quests btw; not the new ones made in Canton. I don't know anything about their engines after 2003.
Steve, Host
My take on the interference engine issue is that both the VG & VQ series of engines are interference. Granted, that doesn't necessarily mean there WILL be engine damage when the timing belt breaks, just a good chance (!).
Back in the 70's/80's, as engines became smaller, the OEM's moved towards timing belts, and away from timing chains - for a number of reasons. Over this 20-odd year use of belts, we are now seeing timing chains become more widespread once again. I believe the major reason for this is consumer driven: people simply don't want to fork out ~ $1k every 60k/90k miles for a new timing belt, and all of the other expensive "while you're in there" stuff. This anxiety (and lack of preventative maintenance in the first place) has led to many folks experiencing broken timing belts and even larger repair bills. This is even more true for those of us running interference engines.
As I said a few posts above, I don't have much time around here on the Quest/Villager forum, but I am more familiar with the 300ZX VGDE/TT engine and it's idiosyncrasies. This engine is known for ugly aftermath when a timing belt breaks. Not true 100% of the time, but it usually bends valves when the belt breaks, or worse...depending on the RPM when the failure occurred.
I had the timing belt changed on our '97 Quest at about 90k. It is now due for another one (187k). Technically "early" according to the manual on each count, but I've had the mis-fortune of a broken timing belt on an Acura Integra, and got off lucky - don't think I'll have good luck a 2nd time. It is now no later than the recommended interval for me when it comes to timing belts.
Keep in mind that that the recommended intervals also have a "time" element to them - even if the OEM doesn't specify one. As an example...a 10 yr old Quest with 20k miles on it...I sure wouldn't wait until it had 105k on the clock before changing the timing belt. A timing belt is a rubber product, subject to environmental effects, etc, all which negatively impact its useful life.
Oh, I've had a lot of the standard Q/V problems too...exhaust studs, throttle body coolant leak, funky door locks, and an HVAC control panel meltdown last winter. Still chuggin' along though!
Thanks for the info. I also have a small coolant leak under the throttle body of my 97 Mercury villager. What do I need to do? Mechanic suggested a whole throttle body. Thanks
Farid
Steve, Host
mozeydozey, "Forums Discussion Finder: Get Directions Here" #5231, 23 Nov 2005 5:38 pm
Steve, Host
I've had the same thing happen on our Quest twice now. It's an easy repair, it's the blower motor resistor. It's located under the dash on the passenger side, secured by a couple of hex head screws. The part is about $20 US I think, takes just a few minutes to replace if you are into that kind of thing.
Dave