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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008
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I did try to find another dealer. As the story goes, I called my Ford Dealer where we bought our Windstar, and ask if they work on Sables and that I had ESP coverage.... They said sure bring it in... Well I brought it in and told them I had an oil leak. They took my VIN # ran it through the computer, and they saw that I had a new engine put in it about 5K miles ago. They said they wouldn't work on it for the oil leak, as they don't want to get involved with Ford and the Mercury Dealer who I bought the car from and who I have dealt with since I bought it. I sat there and said but this is a new leak! It has nothing to do with the oil pump ect. They said they have been in between to many of these situations and would not work on it. At that point I brought it back to my Mercury Dealer and told the Service Manager No one wants to work on my car. It's black listed. He laughed. He and I are on good terms. They did stand behind me during the original pissing wars with the dealer & Ford ESP. They supplied me with a loaner for almost a month, during the engine reinstall. That is when they did the dye test, couldn't pin point the leak, and called Ford for help. I guess they asked Ford if they should pull the engine. When I picked it up they said Ford said some leaking is "normal". Hmmmm Wonder if the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) considers some oil leaking is normal. BTW the engine has a 3 year 36K new warrantee on it.
Steve
Some leakage is not normal, especially since you apparently have a warranty, unless there is some fine print that excludes oil leaks!
Some leakage at 80-100k might be considered acceptable, but not as young as this replacement engine is.
PS: Don't even think about installing 180 t-stat. You engine has problems and you should get those things fixed first and settle. Tehn later you can isntall it. If you do it now they may blame you and you may loose your edge on the case.
Nope not planning on doing the 180 degree fix for the ping until the oil leak is fixed. God I wish this was a lease vehicle.. I would of dropped it on their doorstep 2 years ago and laughed all the way home. As it is this is going to be gruelling and I'm not going to let up. My ESP plan is good till August 2005. Wish I had a friend who was a lawyer, bet one letter with a attorneys letterhead would do wonders. May have to call the local Bar Assoc. and ask for names.
Just think, this car will be all mine in 4 more payments. The more I think about it, the less likely I will buy that Freestar / Montaray. Only problem is I need to tow a pop-up trailer less then 1500lbs. Will the Toyota or Honda tow that? I may have to go back to the GMC Safari. Rear wheel drive, 4.3 engine, damn dog house and only 3 doors, or maybe a DC T&C.
We will see what Ford does..
Steve
Ah the saga continues. You know my secretary asked what I want out of this, I said just want my oil leak fixed, she then asked if they can't do that then what, I told her I just want a reliable car just like the one I own that doesn't leak oil, & runs with out knocking on 87 octane. Don't want my money back don't want them to buy it back. I just want a car that I can drive for the next 5 years with out major problems. I expect to change tires, shocks breaks, ball joints etc, real normal items, but not engines and transmissions and continue to have oil leaks.
Is that to much to ask.
THe ping will be there no matter what you do, use 93 octane meanwhile, b/c it is very harmful to engine.
What is the nature of your oil leak, where it is leaking?
I know how disgusted you probably are at Ford for not getting your oil leak fixed. You paid good money for your car and want it to work right - as it should.
On the other hand, I assume that the car runs fine and that other than the oil leak it's a great car. Keep that in mind.
Say it out loud - it's just an oil leak ! Nothing major.
My 19 year old Corvette also leaks a drop of oil every time I park it but I think of it as a great car. Maybe you should just accept the fact that your car leaks oil or pay a mechanic to change some of the seals.
Life is too short to get all worked up over an oil leak.
It's not the end of the world !
"I did experience one peculiarity for which I took it back to the dealer: a prominent tapping noise from the engine when it's warmed up. The service writer told me that there is a technical service bulletin on that for 03s with the Duratec and mine was the third he had seen like that. According to the bulletin, the cause is camshaft bolts that were not torqued properly. They re torqued the bolts on mine and it's been fine since. If you notice tapping, get it back to the dealer while it's still under warranty, ASAP!"
My car is Sable 2002 with Duratec. I also noticed tapping noice when engine was at idle, the period of tapping is equal to rpm. At 20,000 service I asked dealer to fix the noice. They couldn't figure out the origin of noice. Yesterday I had a 30,000 miles service (pretty expensive one) at the same dealership and asked them again to fix the problem. This time they discovered before mentioned technical service bulletin (using hot line with Ford) and retorqued the camshaft. They told me that there was no damage to the engine. But who knows. Anyway, I have extended warranty up to 100,000 miles.
As a loaner they gave me '03 Ford Taurus with Duratec, rear spoiler and sunroof. It had a firmer suspention than my Sable LS Premium and behaved better on turns. Sirius sattelite radio sucks, so I turned off it after a while and turned on AM/FM. Interior looks and feels pretty cheap after my Sable. Esp leather substitute and dashboard plastic.
You might have to do some research here on what is included for each Taurus/Sable model. Check out the standard equipment here on Edmunds for each of the models. The cars are pretty similar. My GS plus included some extra options - power drivers seat, alloys, heated mirrors, CD, and a light-dimming rear-view mirror with a digital compass.
By the way, I love my car - looks great and it's very comfortable.
Yupper been running 93 octane...
I got the form from AG office but decided to wait a few months, before I head down that road.
For the past 3 - 4 weeks I decided ok lets see, I'll try to call it "normal also. During lunch today I stopped by a Ford Dealer and looked at vans. I mentioned I just got done looking at Toyota Sienna's as I was very disappointed with Ford MC service The sales person said we'll take care of you.. Our service department is top notch. He directed me to the service department... I told the service rep about my situation / new engine/ and other Ford Dealer who wouldn't even look at it after he printed out the report. This service manager said no problem, we'll take the car in like there is no replacement engine, and I'll give it to a mechanic and he'll check for a leak. The original Mercury dealer I bought the car from was small 3 mechanics and a couple body shop guys. This is a large Ford Dealer.
Well I have an appointment for Wednesday morning, we'll see what happens.
It’s true, jasmith52, if it was a 19 year old Corvette, I wouldn’t [non-permissible content removed] either. My fave car would be a 75-76 vette. I think a lot of it is this car is still our newest car. Yes, I have 3 months left on the loan. Our other car is the 96 Windstar, which is the one we’ll be getting rid of in the next few months. If the Sable was 8 years old and 80,000 miles I wouldn’t [non-permissible content removed] either, but when you pay $700 for extended warrantee (it paid for it self with the new engine) and about 5 years old with 33K miles, that small oil leak will be a large oil leak about 3-6 months after all the warrantees have expired. We live in the North East and by the time the rust starts to show (about 7-8 years) that’s when the car can have a small normal oil leak.
I’ll keep you all informed
Diagnosis: Replace oxygen sensors and EGR valve.
Since I try to do most of my own repairs, I replaced the upstream oxygen sensor, both downstream oxygen sensors and the EGR valve. Disconnected the battery to reset the service engine light-- light went out. 26 miles later that nasty engine light came back on.
Stopped at Auto Zone and they put the tester on for free, said it had an error code of P0401 and P1131. After a little discussion with the parts desk attendant I bought an EGR switch and bought something to put in the fuel.
Poured the gas additive in before I left, came home happy because I had more ammunition to fight that nasty engine light with-- and proceeded to replace the EGR switch. Disconnected battery terminal-- light went out. Drove car several times-- engine light came on-- screamed a few expletives-- came to edmunds.com.
Looking for suggestions and also to find out what the codes P0401 and P1131 might indicate is wrong with my vehichle.
99 Mercury Sable, 3.0 V6 DOHC
I think Taurus has 4 O2 sensors and each is around $50. Depending your mileage, you may need to replace them too. Their life span is around 90K.
On my 2002 SES, I've recently had trouble with my (front) windshield defogger. My windshield, while driving in rainy-type weather, will develop a flower like pattern of fog, even with the defogger on a high setting. Has anybody else had trouble with theirs or found it inadequate? It's not just insufficient in my opinion, but actually basically not working at all-- and a hazard in driving situations where I need it. I am taking my car in this week for some other warranty work, mainly a defunct CD player, so I was curious how I could convince them to replace it if it is defective, since they probably won't be able to "duplicate the problem." Any thoughts/ideas/similar problems? Also, if you have an '00-'03 and find it working much better than this, it would be helpful to know so that I am able to gauge whether it is a problem or typical of this defogger.
1. What type of stock speakers brand and watts did Ford use front and rear for the 97 GL models?
2. Did Ford offer any hidden Subwoofer or AMP or just 6 speakers in the GL?
THANKS IN ADVANCE!
~Allen/16/m/ms
Does the cooler t-stat affect performance in any way? I am enjoying the quiet and improved throttle response of 93 octane, but it's a little expensive.
The other thing that can happen and DID to me was the brake lights remain on no matter what you do to try to turn them off. I had to learn how to disconnect the brake light device from the top of the brake pedal. Not fun when you're dressed up and have to crawl under the wheel!
Anyone else have theirs done?
As usual my dealer had me in and out in fairly quick order, 45 minutes, and I didn't need an appointment, but I called them in advance to make sure they had the parts. Got it done on my way home from work. Their extended hours are great all weekday evenings and most of Saturday.
Otherwise the Taurus is running great. I really enojy that DOHC Duratec. I am getting close to turning 40k on it and it is as tight and solid as when new. No rattles, squeaks or creaks. No issues except two recalls and three fairly minor warranty covered repairs. Plan on keeping it another 6 years, just like my last Taurus.
No problems whatsoever...took them a little under 2 hours to get the car finished and back to me.
I have had this car for a little over three months, and its just turned over 34,500 miles (I bought it used). Absolutely awesome car, with enough power to make it fun to drive.
AS
comments/issues:
- I had the duratec knock problem that started
about 4 months/2000 miles. The dealer tweaked
the computer unit and it's much diminished, but
hasn't gone away entirely. It's bad at 30-40mph
at ~1200 RPM on a slight upgrade.
- The tilt lever keeps working loose. I'm tempted
to put some Thread-Lok on it, but it's in at
such an odd angle, that I'd be afraid to take
it out all the way.
- Anyone else getting these wierd fuzzballs under
the hood? They appear to be made up of stray
fibers from the fire pad.
- Recently the hood latch has begun to rattle.
I looked at it, so did the dealer and nothing
seems wrong. I tightened the rubber bumper
stalks, but that didn't help.
- Twice in three years when I started the engine,
the trunk popped open, wierd!
- The seat belt inertial locks are too sensitive.
If I'm coming out of a cloverleaf and try to
do a "blind spot stretch", the dang seat belt
won't let me! This is a safety issue that I've
never had with any of the 5 other vehicles I've
owned. Blind spot mirrors help, but still I'd
like to be able to stretch in order to see.
- The controls are sometimes aggravating. When
I want to shut off the heat, sometimes I miss
and hit MaxAC or the useless outside temp
button. There ought to be a law about certain
buttons all having a tactile feel to them
across all models and mfrs.
- Both airbag crash sensors went bad within the
first six months. Dealer made warranty
replacements.
- The left rear light assembly leaked and filled
with water. Dealer replaced under warranty.
Aside from these relatively minor things I'm
satisfied with the car, it's value, safety
features, etc.
I'm getting around 22mpg in a mixed local/hwy
commute.
Also, can you give me a quick lesson on how to change the bulb for the headlamps (and tail lamps). I don't have a manual. There appears to be a little tab near the lamp assembly, and it looks like you pull it (or push it) to release something (the headlamp cover maybe?). Any way, all lights are working OK now, but on my 1993 and 1995 Taurus, it seemed like headlamp and tail lamp bulbs went out every 6 months or so. How have the bulbs lived on your 2000 and 2002 Taurus? Any instructions on how to replace is appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks,
Four
At this stage, I don't think Ford is liable to do anything about it. However you should do something, and that is get it replaced.
My 2000 Taurus has nearly 40k on it and no bulbs of any kind have burned out, so I have not attempted to replace headlights. Usually in modern cars you have to replace the bulb from the back as the lense and reflector assembly are all sealed up to keep moisture out.
To replace the tail light bulbs, you need to drop the tail light assemblies out of the car - really stupid way to set the car up but my 2000 Mustang does the same thing so it must be the "Ford Way".
On my wife's car, the sun roof will not go into the next mode unless you release the switch. If the roof is open and you hold the button to close, even if you continue after the roof has shut, the roof will stay closed. To go into the ventilation mode you must release the button and then push it again.
I have the Vulcan engine with 88k on the clock.
This last week while on the road, I had the cruise on and noticed about every 20 seconds the tach would move up about 700 RPM and lasts about 1-2 seconds (it happens with the cruise on and off). I could feel it a bit as well. Sort of like a gust of a headwind.
I checked the tranny fluid...it is dark red and needs changed. The car shifts normal in all gears. I was far away from home when this developed and traveled back 1000 miles without the symptons becomming worse.
I am taking it to the dealer soon but would like any info anyone would have.
Thanks! Jim
Dealer diagnosis was "sticking temperature blend door". Anyone experience this problem?
During the diagnosis procedure the dealer was able to get the A/C to work, claiming to have "unstuck" the blend door. They said it may be one or two weeks and it WILL stick again.
The dealer said Ford "redesigned" the blend door on latter models to correct warping which leads to sticking. Is this true? Another "major" dealer said they have never had a car with this problem, and the proposed solution (see below) was not consistent with the make of the car. I don't know who to believe.
The dealer quoted me $435+tax to replace the blend door, which costs $5. They said they have to remove the entire dashboard to access the part.
Is this a bad diagnosis? If so, how might the A/C have been made to work during a "diagnosis" procedure? Are there other possibilities for an A/C system that quit one day and now works okay following a "diagnosis" procedure?
You are in an unsafe condition. If your air-bag light is flashing something is wrong with the safety system. The air bag MAY NOT deploy in a crash. Do you want to risk your safety over what could be as little as a $100.00 air bag sensor located in the front of the vehicle?
In addition to that, if you sell and/or trade in the vehicle, and do not disclose this, you are LIABLE for anything that happens to the occupants of that car because of this repair you knew about-but did not act on. IS IT WORTH IT??????
Normally I hang out in the Accord forum since that is what I drive. I just purchased a 2002 SES with 31K miles on it. The couple I purchased it from is leaving the country next week and sold it to me for $6600 (a steal). There aren't any dents, or any other body damage, and the car was fairly clean. The Carfax was totally clean. The car has the Flex Fuel Vulcan Engine. Below are my questions to this experienced group (Yes, I will search the boards for the answers as well but thought one of you could save me some time) -
1. Are there any major concerns (Mechanical problems, etc.) with this engine and vehicle that I should be aware of?
2. I was planning on dumping the tranny fluid, Fuel filter, oil and air cleaner, just to be safe. Any other suggestions?
3. With Honda one can buy genuine honda accessories at HandAaccessories.com for 60% of the Honda dealership price. I'd like to buy a deck lid spoiler for this Spruce Taurus. Where would you recommend I go?
4. How are the Continental tires on this rig? I have Michelins on the 2004 Accord but they are noisy.
5. What else should I know but are not smart enough to ask?
Thanks a bunch! If you have an Accord, I could answer any questions you all may have!
Thanks,
Todd
I picked up a 2002 SES with Vulcan Engine. I've also driven the Duratec. While the Duratec does pull harder, I've found the Vulcan to do just fine. The Vulcan is an older design (Push rod engine) but is rock solid and reliable (tried and true). Folks say that the Vulcan engine will go on for 200K. I was looking at a 2001 SEL (Duratec) for $9000 but found this 2002 SES Vulcan (in perfect condition) for $6600. I have no regrets purchasing the 2002 SES Vulcan. Runs great!
I'm not overly concerned especially since I drove cars before they even HAD seatbelts and was principal driver of two cars for 32 years that never had airbags. If I think about it someday I'll ask the dealer what he thinks. But thanks for your concern!
My Sable was declared a total loss but I was able to walk out with a sore neck and same minor burns to my arms.
We don't think about air bags and seat belts until something happens, and things do happen.
What did you replace it with, or haven't you yet?
Let me just say 3 things about these cars (Tauri and Sable. They're damn strong and safe. While reporting the accident to my insurance company, the rep told me right off the bat that the car would probably be totaled as the cost of repairing it would exceed the value of it. I argued with him that my station wagon was a top of line and very well equipped. Well, the adjustor who actually came to check it out say confirmed that it was a total loss. The guy noted that replacing airbags would be $1500 + other components on the steering wheel. Then replacing other parts was going to cost a bundle, he said. He couldn't give me a value right there and then but promised to call me that afternoon.
He did and said that the company that tabulated the value of the car came up with a very surprising figure of $12200. They took into account the equipment and mileage and other issues. So the adjustor told me that, on second thought, they could have the car repaired if I wanted.
The third thing about the Sable/Tauri is value. This experience disproves the notions and stereotypes about not holding their value well.
So I was all of the sudden faced with a dilemma. The number they gave me was what I'd have to pay for the exact same car, 2000 Mercury Sable station wagon Premium LS with low mileage. So after discussing the issue with my wife, we began to see the chance of a brand new Taurus of Sable. We felt that buying a 2004 in the Summer with cash rebates would be easy. I know that in the past I bitched and complained about my station wagon, but I really loved it. So it was very difficult to let it go.