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I used to have an 850 and I loved that car! It saved my life when I was involved in an accident by a drunk driver. I needed a car asap, as I am a student in college and I am working full time this summer. I told my parents that I wouldn't settle for anything less than a Volvo (I used to think they were boxy, but after a very comfortable 16 hour ride to Florida last year combined with the tank-like inside after the accident [someone's spark plugs were on the ground], I completely changed my mind.) We tried to find something as reliable as the 850 within the amount of money I received from the insurance company. I wanted an 850, but we (my 'rents and I) jumped on the chance when we saw an S70 in the paper. We ended up paying $5,100 for it. It has ~113,000 miles (my 850 had almost 116,000.) The engine runs smoothly and the transmission feels good. The only catch was that the engine light was on because it needs a new air pump (the price was thus lowered from $6,000). (The carfax report said it failed emissions and the air pump issue has been confirmed at the dealership were the car was serviced.) My dad is a car guru, so I am lucky about that. I know the air pump is pricey, but I'm more worried about other parts, since it is fairly easy to replace yourself. That and I have a little money left over from the insurance, which leaves me room for repairs. (I apologize this is so long-winded!) I've heard good stories and horror stories about the S70. I'm hoping once the car is 'refreshed', just like the 850 was, I won't have much trouble out it for a long time. (I'm replacing the fuel, air and cabin filter, with an oil change and transmission flush & filter asap. I also wanted to replace the spark plugs, just so it's 'new.') (Timing belt was already replaced.) Here are a few things I have questions on:
1. The rear door on the driver's side: the door lock will not pop-up when I use the remote, it jumps a little, but doesn't make it all the way - what could this possibly be? Could it be fixed without buying any parts?
2. The radio/cd player - works fine, but the tiny lights in behind are all out (the lcd lights up though.) Is that possible for ALL of them to be out, or does this signify a bigger underlying electrical problem, which brings me to the most annoying:
3. The light-out indicator -> My dad and I replaced all the "bad-looking" bulbs in the tail lights (there were a couple). When I would press down on the brake pedal (slowy/softly) the light-out light on the dash would flicker until the pedal was pressed all the way. We changed out the bulbs and this went away...naturally until on my way home, it is flickering again - it's not the front lights or the third brake light. It's the brake lights on the trunk, but they're new! Would a little filing and electrical grease do the trick here? What kind of problem is this (a recall that hasn't been performed perhaps?) If it's a recall, how would I go about taking it to a dealer - would they actually look at it to see if all the recall work was completed on it?
4. My most worrysome: All I can think of is either too thick of oil or faulty oil pump. When I start the car, sometimes it's rough (and scary) - and the low oil pressure light comes on for about 2 secs, then it goes away and the engine runs fine. Scary.
I know this model is controversial, and I did not find that out until after I bought it, but I hope it will be my best car yet, it just needs a little lovin'! If anyone has had any problems like this or if you know what a fix is (no smarty coments please!) please let me know! I would like the car to be in tip-top shape, if it means replacing bulbs every couple months or so, I'm willing to make that sacrifice for the safety part! If anyone has any comments or advice about this model, please let me know!
For the rough starting, I usually find replacing the plugs cures this. So definitely do your full tune-up first, then see how it is.
definitely play with those bulb sockets a bit. Clean them up and make sure the bulbs are sitting securely in their seats. There was a TSB on S70s to replace certain light sockets. You could always check with the dealer to see if this was done on your car. But it just might need an adjustment on your part ... i had this same thing on mine when I first got it, but a good cleaning and some slight bending of the sockets to hold the bulbs tighter has resulted in no problems over the past few years.
I'm not sure about the lights on the stereo. I guess its possible they could have all gone out ... but I don't think its likely. I'm pretty sure this isn't a dedicated fuse for just the radio lights. Are you sure everything else is working. Maybe check the fuses just in case. If nothing else, try replacing a bulb or 2 and see what happens.
Have no clue on the lock problem.
good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
2 If the radio button lights are out there isn't anything you can do, except replace the radio. Its not hard, its just plug and play.
3 Oil is not getting to the valaves and lifters which is what is making the noise.
Some noise at startup is normal, but a low oil pressure light isn't.
Look into that.
Radio button lights can be replaced. Folks have even replaced with different colored bulbs to change overall lighting scheme in the car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
- are they easy to fix yourself? (My husband is pretty handy with our vehicles -an avalon, an infiniti J30, and a taurus)
-should I consider buying an extended warranty? (I got a quote for 25,000miles or 25 months for 1900 bucks)
-are certified volvos really worth the extra cost?
-Is there another more recent model that has similar styling?
Thanks very much for any information!
I'm leary of extended warranties from third parties. I wouldn't toss $1,900 bucks at a warranty company...just keep that money in a "car repair" savings account instead, if you're worried about possible large expenditures.
Take a look around here and see what we've been saying about common issues with these vehicles. They DO tend to be a little on the maintenance-intensive side, especially as they age. The payoff, of course, is Volvo safety and a supremely comfortable car for not a lot of money. If you and your husband are comfortable doing repairs yourselves, parts prices aren't really out of line with other makes (I've sometimes found that a part for my S70 can be cheaper than the corresponding part on my '98 Accord.)
Good luck, and let us know what you find!
Also, any ideas about the tranny in the 2000 s70? Our taurtise (as I refer to it) has been a great car, all except for the tranny- skips constantly and we had it rebuilt, but again- a problem that was a constant with the car.
Thanks again for the info-looks like you were up late last night!
s70wannabe - Since your hubby has experience with various cars, I'm sure he'll be able to adapt to the S70. If you get a non-turbo model, it would be even easier still. A turbo isn't a big deal or anything, but it makes it a little tougher to do some jobs and does add one common failure in the form of a oil return line seal (but its a pretty easy fix). And if you are looking for something fun (as you mentioned), then I STRONGLY suggest getting the T5, preferrably with the sport suspension option (not required, but just suggested).
The timing belt change interval varies by year .... I BELIEVE the '00 model is a 90K interval (my '98 is a 70K interval). HOWEVER, a site I strongly suggest your hubby become familiar with is volvospeed.com. If you go there and click on the maintenance section, he can read up on all the common maintenance and other issues. On that site, they suggest, regardless of miles, to not let the timing belt go past 5 years. So it sounds like you should change the belt no matter what since you'll be buying a car that is almost 6 years old. And this really isn't something you should be lax about changing. A timing belt failure is quite catastrophic in these cars.
One problem you are pretty much guarateed to face at some point is the failure of the ABS controller. And if you scroll up a few posts, you can read our recent discussion on this.
Oh, and the transmission - I started experiencing problems with mine at around 50K miles. The dealer could not tell me what the problem was and even refused to believe there was a problem at all (i would get vibrations/slipping when the tranny would shift into high gear). After some research and reading, I decided to have the dealership flush and fill the tranny. After that, even the tech admitted "jeez, i thought i was fine before, but now that i see how it SHOULD feel, i see you were right and there was a problem. it feels GREAT now." And he was right. It was a whole new car. ANYWAY, moral of the story is that I now change the tranny fluid every 30K miles without fail.
Good luck. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Mine is now almost 8 years old and I wouldn't trade it for anything (i recently thought about trading and drove a bunch of much more expensive cars and NOTHING enticed me to trade the volvo in - that says alot to me).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
ah, did a search and found it. Its the throttle controle module. I can't post a link, since its on another forum... but here is the most descriptive post from there (i've edited it a little for clarity and brevity):
The ETS light is a warning indicator on your dash light cluster that warns of problems in the Electronic Throttle System. The 99+ have electronic throttles vs. the manual "wire" system in older cars. The core of the ETS system is the Throttle Module and this is usally the culprit when the light comes on. The module is either damaged or dirty and fuel is not being fed into the engine as required. (Thus various performance issues - hard starts, stalling, acceleration problems and sometimes...no performance issues at all, just the light comes on.)
The dealers seem to alway say "REPLACE" the module whenever there's a problem..Cost is about 1000-1200 depending on dealer. The part is about 600 and the labor about the same. However, I had the problem and my mechanic simply cleaned the module and it's run fine ever since (about a year ago). Seems others are learning to at least try to clean the module first rather than spend 1200 on replacement. If you replace a dealer must do it. There is software involved and only someone with a VADIS system can download.
The module is hard to get to. It took my mechanic who has about 30 years experience with Volvos 2 hours to do the cleaning. It's not a job I'd try myself but there are a lot of very savy guys on this board that could do it themselves. The cleaning isn't the problem. It's getting to the module in the first place and reinstalling it that takes time.
This is a very common problem on first gen S/V70s 99-00 (as the 98 didn't have the Electronic Throttle) and most here would view it as a defect that Volvo should have repaired as such issuing a recall to replace the modules which all tend to have this issue at some time or another.
Bottom line is try to get it cleaned before you replace. Risk is that it won't work and you'll be out the cost of cleaning PLUS the need to replace at 1200. Hope this helps.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Edit to my previous: My Accord's a '94, not a '98.
About the radio lights: I asked the dealership and (naturally) they said I would have to replace the entire radio to fix that. (Go figure - it' a dealership) I've taken off the front plate and KNOW that the lights come out. So, does anyone know where can I find replacements? Especially if people change the colors, etc. I love music and I'm happy with the sound in the car / I don't want to fool around with putting a new radio in, because I've seen how much trouble my cousin went through when his radio ended up being too long to fit in the radio "bay" properly. That and a new "Volvo" radio costs a little over $400... a hefty price tag to a college student that just wants 5 light bulbs. Thanks again everyone for your input!
:confuse:
As far as an aftermarket radio fitting properly, don't worry; the opening is standard DIN depth (DIN is the standard aftermarket radio size...the Volvo has a double DIN opening, which means an installation kit would be needed to fit an aftermarket stereo.) It's plenty deep enough, though. Let me guess...your cousin has a GM or a Chrysler.
I will be sure to post what kind of deal I evenutally strike- I am trying to find something in my area (Rochester NY) and its difficult. But I cant wait till I can get one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks again!!!!!!!!!! SO INCREDIBLY HELPFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
As far as transmissions go, I haven't heard of high failure rates with these, either...just keep them serviced as qbrozen has mentioned.
There are some components on S70s that seem to have a high failure rate, but the basic drivetrain is a very solid, proven design that essentially dates back to 1993's 850 model.
My cousin's car is a 99 Oldsmobile Alero. He hates it ('cause it's an Oldsmobile), but he's here as an exchange student for the summer, so that's all he could find for the amount of money he had (He wanted a BMW, but for $2500, it was difficult to find one that didn't need repairs or that was a newer year. The Alero's nice, though, just has high miles - 107K and some minor body work.) Anyways, I should ask him what he ended up doing with the radio... hmmm. That's nice to know that Volvo's DIN depth is for real people! (Just makes me love the car even more!) Heh, I probably should tell my cousin to further sway his opinion towards owning a Volvo!!
Thanks again lancerfixer!!! This place is awesome!
p.s. - I almost forgot -> I need opinions. Parts place at the dealership said that Volvo's only do well with "Volvo" spark plugs. This is difficult for me to believe. What is everyone's take on this? (A good Bosch set from Autozone ought to be good, even if not better?) Thanks again, everyone!
Oh, as far as the colors ... i don't have the info handy ... but I do remember, for instance, one person used permanent marker to change the color on his. Haha. He went with red, by the way.
For plugs... well, I'm almost inclined to believe it. I went ahead and bought expensive plugs a couple of changes ago (ummm... what are they? titanium or something I think ... i knew when i was shopping, but forget at the moment.) Anyway, those didn't last NEARLY as long as the OEM plugs. I found I had the rough starting again after about 15K miles. So then I just went with good ole platinum plugs from Napa (can't remember brand), and now, after about 20K miles, I'm thinking they need to be replaced again soon. SO, I will be getting OEM plugs, personally. I have seen them time and again on Ebay. Not cheap, but cheaper than buying at the dealer.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
At my last checkup in the shop the mechanic had told me that my car battery needed replacement as it was giving out slightly lower voltage (12.5v i think) than required.
But do you think this is a battery problem? I always thought your car wouldnt start if your battery was low, but once it started the battery shouldnt matter.
Anybody else facing this problem?
I think your problem could be so many things. Really, my only thought after reading the description thus far is that its some sort of loose connection. If it always runs fine and starts fine, then I have to assume something is loosing connection at random times and killing the car's juice. And, really, that could be any NUMBER of connections and it could be electrical, a sensor, or a vacuum line.
first thing I would do is start the car and leave it idling while you pop the hood and start jiggling things around (gently). Make sure all the wires are good and secure and none of the insulation on the wires is worn away. Jiggle as many vacuum lines as you can, etc, etc.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
As for the radio lights, I went to radio shack, but either the bulbs/leds they had were too small or big. And the colors were off (that guy who painted his bulbs with permanent marker should've visited the Radio Shack I went to!) So that leaves me to ask another question! (Sorry, guys/gals!) Please correct me if I'm wrong - the size of the radio LEDs is 4mm?? And also I was wondering if anyone out there knew a part number or perhaps a website that had these (or at least a gigantic selection.) Another tid bit of curiosity - the leds I found seemed to have the connectors too big to fit in the black "socket" that goes into the back of the radio...or do I buy the led already in the socket since the way the conectors are wrapped around it seems a bit complicated? I'm out of ideas. I won't die without radio lights, but it would look so nice!
Its on the S90 listings, but says its for the SC-816 radio, so it should work for you.
Yes you have a couple of bulbs burnt out. To change here is what it takes. Remove your radio by pushing the little tabs on each side,a dime will get them pushed back enough to make them releace. Un plug the unit from the back side
Oh Yea make sure you have your radio code handy when replacing the system or she won't come on, you will at that time enter you code # then hit auto and she will start working.
After taking the unit out remove the screws on the sides that hold the face on, the knobs on the front of unit will pry off and then a few snap connects around the unit will let the front cover off. now you should be looking at the circut board holding the bulbs, there are three or four little metal tabs spaced out around the board that are bent sideways holding this board to the units frame. Take needle nose and straighten these tabs up and the circut board will release. Now you can get to the back of the board and give the bulb holders a 1/4 turn and they will release. Now the fun starts
I had to get my good reading glasses out for this,you take the bulbs out of the holders by unwinding the wire on the holders then reversing this procedure when installing the new bulbs back. You will also have to cut the ends of these bulbs on reinstalling the new parts. Bulbs came from Radio Shack
Part # 272-1092 micro lamp 12 volt. Good luck about an hour and a half.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Here is a class action lawsuit against Volvo with more information of the warranty coverage of this problem : http://www.fazmiclaw.com/Volvo.html
I will contact my dealer and see what he says. Will keep this thread updated.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Regarding the timing belt mentioned in earlier messages, the one in my vehicle was changed at 75000 miles due to cracks and wear in the belt. From what I saw, trying to get to the Volvo recommended change frequency of 115000 miles would have been a risk.
but, the big question is, where did it leak from? is it a hose or from the unit itself?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Good luck to kamsvolvo and let us know how you make out with vehicle.
Good independent repair place I go to- they could have charged me the whole amount, but they didn't (and why I keep going back to them!).
A couple weekends ago, my dad and i decided it was time to fix the instrument cluster lights... this entailed disconnecting the battery (well, one of the wires...) The battery was so nasty and dirty, that I decided that it might be a good idea to clean the engine compartment as well - at least a light cleaning, for now. My dad and I wiped all the sludge and dirt off of the battery and then he sanded the prongs and connectors, sealing them off with vaseline. All while telling me that dirt like that can short-circuit a car and cause problems. We changed out the lights in the instrument cluster, which really was surprisingly easy to get to (I love Volvos!!!!!). But, alas, my family is cursed with forgetfulness; I think I forgot to properly connect the bulb on the left side of the clock display and now it's out while all the others work..that and I have two left-over screws! Ah, I'll leave it for this upcoming weekend and figure that out!
BUT what's interesting, is that the check engine light has been off ever since the battery was cleaned. (The light was on, because the air pump needed to be replaced, so the dealer said - and the car had failed emissions last year.) The thought has crossed my mind that it could be a bulb not lighting up or connected right, but I thought I had made sure to put them in correctly, but I will check this this upcoming weekend. But my dad said it was very possible that the bad battery connection could have made the air pump not work properly, thus turning on the light. Some comments would be appreciated!!
Also, we gave her an oil change and changed the fuel filter, which was still the original after 113k miles (bad previous owners, bad!!) And I was able to finally put in the shifter light, which looks so pretty lit up at night! :shades: ::sigh:: I haven't had a chance to order those radio lights, yet, but that's next - along with a transmission flush, which brings me to:
1. Does the transmission have a filter and
2. If so, is it one of those things that you have to take apart everything to get to?
Thanks again everyone for helping - I don't know what I could do without you! I'm so happy that everything is coming together (and I'm hoping the engine light is really off, because the price of the car was lowered $900 when we were buying it because of the air pump that needed replacement.)
Also - does anyone know where I can find a cool cargo net for my trunk for a good price and also how would I attach it inside? Just curious, because I love those things!
thanks!!!
k.
I always have my transmission serviced at the shop (for $79, I'm certainly not going through the trouble myself), so I can't help you with that.
I've never seen anything available for the trunk. Personally, I have one of those adjustable bars with rubber feet on the ends. Its designed for pickup trucks, but works just fine in the trunk of my car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Now, this morning, when I went into the car to start it, nothing happened. Nothing. Not like before, when the key would just continue to go in circles. No, the steering wheel was not locked. It went to where it should, but nothing happened. Frustrated, I investigated further. Turns out, the electricity is out in the entire car. Nothing will work, no seat adjustments, no power doors, power locks, remote keyless entry, and especially no ignition. So now we're stuck with a lifeless hunk of junk occupying space in our garage. The car is in park, and there is no way to get it out of the garage that I could think of. After looking in the manual, I tried to use the Override control to shift it into neutral in order to move it at least into the driveway so it could be towed. Well, override must have been electrical, too, because it isn't working. We've played phone tag with a nearby dealearship (not the one who sold us it, but a better one), but, frankly, I have no clue how it can even leave the garage.
Has this ever happened to you, and, if so, how did you fix it? I've ran out of ideas, and am wondering if you've got any.
1.) Your ignition lock has failed. Time for a new one.
2.) What was "the expensive computer chip" that was replaced? ABS/TRACS controller? ETS?
3.) Sounds like you simply have a dead battery. Throw a new one in there and see what happens.
I have a big ETS problem and I don't want to spend $1500 at dealer.! Anybody knows a good Volvo mechanic in Toronto, Richmond Hill or waterloo area.
Thanks
Thanks again
Jen
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I read in different web sites that the problems with Electronic Throttle Body in S70
1998 – 2000, is well known by VOLVO and they compensate for the repair / replace cost.
Is it true? Does anybody know how to do it. I am at the point to replace / Clean the ETS on my 99 S70.
Thanks
i haven't heard of Volvo stepping up regarding the problem before. We have discussed it here in the past and posted some information.... or maybe the problems & solutions board.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
In the time that I have owned this car (my third Volvo), I have been to the dealer 4 times regarding this problem. Car cranks, catches and dies immediately. Have had the battery replaced, antenna ring, immobilizer, new keys remade (twice) and now dealer is suggesting replacing the ECU ( car is currently at the dealer) .
The symptoms start out with an occasional no start (crank, catch, immediately die). Subsequent attempts are usually just a crank. This no start condition gradually progresses - happening once a week to two or three times a week to two, three, up to ten times a day. The number of attempts at starting gradually worsening as well sometimes taking 10 to 15 fruitless cranks. Intervals between dealer visits are also becoming shorter.
This has happened four times in the last 13 months. So it is intermittent and progressive which this last time stranded me and car had to be towed to the dealer where it sits today.
I have known the service manager there for over fifteen years and he say's he has never seen a problem like this. He is asking me to be patient and this can be solved, but I'm so frustrated.
Any advice (I hope)?
Has your mechanic looked into that?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
After prior post, I checked Edmonds.com to look up service bulletins and found that improper diagnostic software packages may have been put in 2000 S70's. Have been wondering why dealer has been unable to get codes clear enough to guide him to my problem...another thing to discuss with him...I'll also mention the electronic throttle problem...fun
I am not sure your problem is .
I have s70 1998 tons of problems , lucky we bought extend warranty , but now the warranty is over , we go to that guy to do the repair..
I am going to replace the ETS next week, but I have more stuffs that have to be done. in near future.
How can I get hold of him?
Further to this problem and as written in previous messages from others, there is a special software download that must accompany the change of the Electronic Throttle Module. To my knowledge, only the dealer can do this. My local mechanic actually ordered and received the ETM from a Volvo dealer, installed it, but could not make it work since he did not have the download software. (Neither one of us was happy about that). And, oh by the way, the download is $39.00, in addition to the $550.00 for the ETM.
As for cleaning, it makes good sense to clean the throttle body when the ETM is changed, but it would be a mistake to believe that cleaning alone will cure the ETS light and problems with the ETM. Good luck">link title