-Ignition position I -Press and hold in the reset button for the trip odometer -Ignition position II within 2 seconds. -Hold the reset button for the trip meter pressed in until the original value has been reset. -Release the reset button for the trip odometer within 4 seconds. The instrument gives an audible signal when resetting has succeeded -If the trip meter is already reset the reset button should be held in for a minimum of 10 seconds and a maximum of 14 seconds. If the reset button for the trip odometer is not released within 4 seconds, the service reminder indicator (SRI) is not reset.
Hi all, i enjoy my 2000 S80,2.9. it has 156k miles. no major problems. but for now. my check engine light is on and the message engine service required. It rides rough and the engine hesitates when i step on the gas. it is as if the engine is grasping for air. What do i need to do to get rid of this problem. i would like to service it myself. thanks.
there is absolutely no way anybody can tell you what is wrong without at least reading the codes that are making your lights come on. If I were you, I'd be visiting the dealer or a dedicated volvo mechanic ASAP.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 2005 S80 and recently looked at the BMW 5 series as a second car. The Volvo gives you more value for your money. THe ride and handling on my T6 is smoother and not as firm as the BMW and prefer the Volvo. Also looked at the Jaguar XJ8 and that is a fantastic riding car. Wish I could afford it.
I am in the market for a pre-owned and would really like to go with a Volvo. Thinking S80 AWD 2.5 04, 05 or 06. Also thinking S60 same years. Opinions? Is premium gas a must for all? Also, I understand the T6 is not as reliable as the 2.5?
T6 wasn't available as an AWD for one thing. Engine to engine, they are both reliable. The issue w/ the T6 is that the transmission on the T6 isn't the optimal one for the car. You are limited in 1st and 2nd gear w/ the T6, Which makes the car feel slower than it should. Some T6's had transmission issues,although most are fine. Personally, I prefer the AWD setup because I don't like torque steer. So, I would probably go w/ the S80 AWD over the T6.
I have had two T6's, a "99 and a "04. Both were fantastic cars. But I never had a transmission problem, which was seen as I understand it only in the early "99's. The "04 had the high end chassis, can't remember whether is was the "3C" or "4C" and that was very nice since you had good control over the level of tightness of the ride and also automatic leveling which I now insist on in a vehicle. Now I have an '07 V8 which of course has AWD with leveling and control over the ride, and I have found that to be very good with added control when doing mountain driving. With the V8 there is excellent pickup and response as was also the case with the T6. But the 4 speed transmission in the latter became clearly less than what was desirable with a modern high end vehicle..
All in all, the "07 V8 is everything I need in a car--luxury and performance at a price that is reasonable. Features found in a high end MB or Jaguar or BMW at much more buyable price.
Hi, Just had to have my fuel pump replaced to the tune of well over a thousand dollars. Cost and problem fall in to the "unreal" category. Hard to believe that something as simple as a fuel pump has evolved into a piece of equipment that apparently as complicated as something that is vital to the launch of the Shuttle. Oh for the days when a fuel pump was activated by the cam shaft, held on to the engine with two bolts, cost five dollars, took about ten minutes to replace and seldom failed. According to the Stealership that did my work, in order to get to the fuel pump, they had to remove the rear seat to get to the fuel pump? I haven't had time to survey the total amount of damage they did in doing this, but do know that the headliner and steering wheel are covered with greasy hand prints and after three days there is still a strong odor of gasoline in the car. My Volvo is an 03 S80 with only 45000 miles on it. Is this typical of Volvo dependability and excellence? Guess i'm going to have to go Japanese. Comments please.
Seriously though. Modern fuel injected engines require fule to be pumped at much higher pressure levels than an antique engine driven pump. Hence, the electric fuel pump. BTW, modern fuel pumps are place INSIDE the fuel tank. So, when they break(and they do) you either have to remove the gas tank or, do as some motor comapnies do and go in from under the rear seat. After you remove a plate in the chassis.
Before you start castigating the people who fixed your car, I'd learn a little more about cars in general.
I have driven Volvo's for years, and if you are implying that I'm old you are correct. I have experience with diesel engines, no doubt before you were born, and know that mechanical pumps deliver pressure in the thousands of pounds. I am also aware of the fact that the fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. I have done my own service and repair work, again for years, one of the reasons I own Volvos. Unfortunately this failure happened in the parking lot of a Cardiac hospital where I was being prepared for heart surgery, so I was unable to perform the repair myself. As I noted in my earlier post, I have driven Volvos because of their reputation for dependability and safety. I don't think that a fuel pump failure at an odometer reading of 45,506 miles is indicative of dependability. The "castigating" I did was not as an opinion of anyone's mechanical ability, but a comment on the type of person that would leave greasy hand prints on the steering wheel, headliner, and car exterior. That type of careless behavior does not indicate someone with mechanical skill and pride. I resent your arrogance in assuming that I am a novice in things mechanical. I made my living, and a damn good one, in that field for over forty years. :mad:
Well, if thats the case, then the only thing about your post that made any sense was the part about the handprints on the steering wheel. The post was written as if the poster had no knowledge of electric fuel pumps, their location or servicing. As for the 45,000 miles, that is immaterial. Anything man made can and does break. If cars were supposed to be perfect, they wouldn't come with a warranty, would they?
My 2002 S80 T6 hit 107,000 and a regular maintenance message came up. Called the dealer who said it will cost $1500 and that the schedule calls for replacing the water pump and serpentine belt. I don't know much about cars, but the car seems to be running well. Are these replacements necessary? The car is well maintained; I had (and used) the 100,000 mi extended warranty. Thanks for the advice.
It's not the serpentine belt that needs replacing, its the timing belt. It is absolutely necessary to replace the timing belt,and a good idea to do the water pump at the same time.
Will I have any warning before either of those break and leave me stranded? I'm considering purchasing a new car within the next 6 months and don't know if it's worth the cost if I'll be trading it in soon. Thanks
I was constantly replacing my coolant. One day I noticed it on the driver side carpeting running along the side of the dashboard carpet, near the gas pedal. The dealer had to replace the head gasket. I hope it help someone else with a similar problem.
I have a 99 Volvo S80 T6 with about 90K. Last year at about 75 K, I noticed antifreeze behind the passanger's front tire. I had to have the thermost replaced. It cost about 400 bucks.
Price is roughly the same, would you buy a 2002 S80 T6 with 92,000 miles or a 2002 2.9 with 76,000 miles.
I'm primarily concerned about safety as this is for my new driving teenager. The T6 has the Dynamic Stability Traction Control (DSTC) which the 2.9 does not.
Did you ever find out how to get that annoying service message permanently erased from your 2007 (keyless) S80? I, too, don't want to drive 120 miles to my nearest Volvo dealer!
No, sadly, not so far. Message persists and is still annoying.
Someone out there (at Volvo NA!??) should know how to do it, or maybe its one of those that must have the attention of the expensive computer only volvo dealers can afford.
This problem need to be reported to the NHTSA National highway Traffic Safety Administration. This is how recalls are generated, because I filed on July 16, 2008 concerning the 2000 s80 ABS module. Please call 1-888-327-4236
i have an 2002 volvo s80, the car stalled and engine performancce reduced light came on, car wouldn't move. i waited a few minutes and then it started and acted as it was no problem, the engine performance reduced light went off and now running normal i would like to know if anyone had this problem if so what was the problem
I am having much trouble getting the timing set for this car. I had to replace the flywheel, which required the removal of the engine/trans/cradle, so I thought it good to change the timing belt while I have lots of access to it. After doing this and getting it all back together, it will not start. Got gas&spark, but no compression (30-50 pounds). How is the vvt set? When setting the timing marks I marked all sprockets and put them back exactly, but did not know about the vvt until now. How can that be remedied? Sincerely, Brad Owen aka bcon415
Please does anyone have experience with replacement tires for the 2007 (or I expect the 2008) S80 AWD . It comes with Pirellis with the no flat or run flat "feature" but I would prefer to get back to Michelin's and not pay the enormous premium for new Pirellis. Please, any help or suggestions will be appreciated. doctor dick.
I have a 2002 S-80 w/102,000 miles on it. I took it in to my dealer for an oil change today & found out that I need to have the inner ty-rods, lower control arm bushings and the rt rear sway bar link(?) replaced. Is this normal? I have always done the recommended maintenence at the dealer & do not drive on bad roads (they said this was due to bad road conditions???).
I have a 99 S80T6 and my alt went out last weekend and rear brakes were toast also. It cost me a grand. They also told me my ball joint was loose. I had new struts at 70K.
Did you ever get a response to your issue? I am having the exact same situation, and I'm hoping the 5,000 cost to have the mechanic deagnose and fix it is not my only solution.
I am considering an '06 S80 and want to know what the fuel economy is. I do hwy driving 90% of the time. i live in the countryside. Local dealer asking $26000 for it with 18k on odometer. Certified Volvo used car good to 100k mi or 2012 whichever comes first. my alternate choice is an '08 Taurus for $16,500, clearly more affordable for me. Volvo dealer will not budge on price. Any info on "real world" mpg? thanx Jonathan
Comments
-Press and hold in the reset button for the trip odometer
-Ignition position II within 2 seconds.
-Hold the reset button for the trip meter pressed in until the original value has been reset.
-Release the reset button for the trip odometer within 4 seconds. The instrument gives an audible signal when resetting has succeeded
-If the trip meter is already reset the reset button should be held in for a minimum of 10 seconds and a maximum of 14 seconds. If the reset button for the trip odometer is not released within 4 seconds, the service reminder indicator (SRI) is not reset.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Get a "162" in the cluster where messages appear, but the same reminder persists when I restart.
Appreciate any other help you can give me! Thanks, doctor dick.
Thanks.
How can I turn it off....just reset it.
HELP!
Get the car fixed fer cryin out loud.
Actually, you can't reset it.
Has to be done via a VADIS or VIDA hookup.
Might be able to read the code w/ an OBD reader.
Is premium gas a must for all?
Also, I understand the T6 is not as reliable as the 2.5?
However, the car does run better on it,and is quicker.
The S60 and S80 AWD's are essentially the same car.
S80 is just bigger.
Engine to engine, they are both reliable.
The issue w/ the T6 is that the transmission on the T6 isn't the optimal one for the car.
You are limited in 1st and 2nd gear w/ the T6,
Which makes the car feel slower than it should.
Some T6's had transmission issues,although most are fine.
Personally, I prefer the AWD setup because I don't like torque steer.
So, I would probably go w/ the S80 AWD over the T6.
All in all, the "07 V8 is everything I need in a car--luxury and performance at a price that is reasonable. Features found in a high end MB or Jaguar or BMW at much more buyable price.
Good luck! doctor dick
Comments please.
Seriously though. Modern fuel injected engines require fule to be pumped at much higher pressure levels than an antique engine driven pump.
Hence, the electric fuel pump.
BTW, modern fuel pumps are place INSIDE the fuel tank.
So, when they break(and they do) you either have to remove the gas tank or, do as some motor comapnies do and go in from under the rear seat. After you remove a plate in the chassis.
Before you start castigating the people who fixed your car, I'd learn a little more about cars in general.
Unfortunately this failure happened in the parking lot of a Cardiac hospital where I was being prepared for heart surgery, so I was unable to perform the repair myself. As I noted in my earlier post, I have driven Volvos because of their reputation for dependability and safety. I don't think that a fuel pump failure at an odometer reading of 45,506 miles is indicative of dependability. The "castigating" I did was not as an opinion of anyone's mechanical ability, but a comment on the type of person that would leave greasy hand prints on the steering wheel, headliner, and car exterior. That type of careless behavior does not indicate someone with mechanical skill and pride.
I resent your arrogance in assuming that I am a novice in things mechanical. I made my living, and a damn good one, in that field for over forty years. :mad:
The post was written as if the poster had no knowledge of electric fuel pumps, their location or servicing.
As for the 45,000 miles, that is immaterial.
Anything man made can and does break.
If cars were supposed to be perfect, they wouldn't come with a warranty, would they?
It is absolutely necessary to replace the timing belt,and a good idea to do the water pump at the same time.
GET IT DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm primarily concerned about safety as this is for my new driving teenager. The T6 has the Dynamic Stability Traction Control (DSTC) which the 2.9 does not.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
It's much more likely to need the DSTC.
I'd go w/ the 2.9.
Thanks! MP
Someone out there (at Volvo NA!??) should know how to do it, or maybe its one of those that must have the attention of the expensive computer only volvo dealers can afford.
I can, annoyed, live with it. doctor dick.
Try ebay.
Sincerely,
Brad Owen aka bcon415
You can replace the Pirelli's with any tire.
however, did you complain of any problems? if you don't feel anything wrong, or if your tires are not wearing unevenly, then i would leave it alone.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
rear brakes were toast also. It cost me a grand. They also told me my ball joint was loose. I had new struts at 70K.
Local dealer asking $26000 for it with 18k on odometer. Certified Volvo used car good to 100k mi or 2012 whichever comes first.
my alternate choice is an '08 Taurus for $16,500, clearly more affordable for me. Volvo dealer will not budge on price.
Any info on "real world" mpg?
thanx
Jonathan
You should avg mid 20's on the highway.
Combined in the low 20's.