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Thanks
Ck
The problem I am having is with the rear window water sprayer. It does not spray water anymore. I tried cleaning out the tiny water outlet with a water hose, but it did not solve the problem.
Does anyone know how to fix (troubleshoot) these types of problems?
V/R
Ray
That sure is first time poster. Thank goodness your under warrantee.
So now I'm looking for a insturment cluster form a junk yard. if that doesn't work, then I'll try replacing the Body Control Module, then ?? hate to be just a part changer but unsure how to diagnose whjich it is with out access to another one.
I am wondering if you can help me out. I am having the same start and stop problem only it happens at infrequent intervals of between once every 2-4 months. The dealer cannot figure this out and told him about this article. He is looking into it, but would like more information on what was actually replaced. I also have a 1998 t&c lxi with 133,000 and this is the only problem i have had. It is a pesky one however. Help please!
For those of you that have your van cutting in and out or the engine quitting and restarting later. I had a 1993 Eagle Vision that did that. At first the dealer couldn't find anything wrong. When it got worse, it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. I believe that was the name of it. It wasn't that expensive to replace.
Also, the check engine light has been coming on and off, took to Auto Zone twice and both time the computer said everything was OK. My horn will not work and the air bag light stays on all of the time.
I don't know if all of this is connected or many different problems. I have had my fuses checked many time and they are all fine, also alternater checked out fine.
Can any one help???!!!???
Just recently I have had my blower control switch stop working except for the highest setting. Can that be fixed without going to a garage?
Last fall I was traveling in Northern Wisconsin. Just about dark I drove out of a wooded area and fifteen miles to a town of 150 people to get gas (Saturday evening). I filled up my tank and when I tried to start the car, it didn't! The lights on my dashboard started flashing and the headlights seemed to work for a bit. To make a long story short, I had to buy a new battery. Most of my driving is on the highway and I do not have ALL the power dodads that some vans have. This seems to be a problem with 2001 Chrysler T&C's. Is there any recalls out on this???
Batteries go bad no matter how little dodads you have on them. I have read many posts of the Dodge/Chrysler vans doing the same thing. It might be programed to work that way in order to warn owners that their batteries are about to give out or that they are corroded enough that the van is not getting enough power. I would think this is a good thing. I have had batteries go dead on cars with no warning at all. Like on the 2001 Dodge truck I use to own.
Thanks !
Dusty
After reading everything I could find on the Web, I went home and attacked the problem. I started with the battery, which did not fix anything. Then, following something '5bucks' put in a forum, I decided to try the plug on the back of the instrument panel.
As soon as I touched the panel to pull it out, everything came alive! There was one connector that I reseated and a ribbon cable at the bottom. Both were easy to reach from the back of the panel.
I recommend only taking the top half of the dash board off to access the panel. If you remove the air vent, that supplies the drivers side door, from the dash then you only have a few screws holding the dash in place. There is a plastic panel over the top of the stearing wheel that has to come off. After that it's mostly metal pressure clips holding the dash on. Just start wiggling the plastic and they will slide out. I was done in about an hour.
Hope this helps!
Glenn
After reading these forums, I went home and pulled the dash to check the plug on the instrument panel. As soon as I touched the panel it came to life!. I pulled the plug off and reseated it, along with the ribbon cable at the bottom of the panel. Everything is working again!
THANKS!
Glenn
Its impressive that you were able to go 290K miles. Can you tell us what you did to prolong the life that long? Also, pls. note if the stuff you did were something that you did yourself or if you had to go to a mechanic to have it done.
I think this would be very interesting to other members as well.
Thanks
In addition to the brake issue, we had brought our van in (2003) for a leak in the tranny(along with the brake prob), which the dealer fixed at a $550 charge for replacing the solenoid and oil gaskets and refilling the fluid. Now once again at our recent check we were told that the tranny and lines were leaking and they replaced the transmission solenoid pack, valve body and lines. In addition, I was told that the serpentine drive belt was frozen so they also replaced that along with the tensioner. (a quick internet search revealed that it is an extremely common occurance for the serp belt to slip off or shred, no mention of freezing (in fact there is an entire website dedicated to this issue with over 3000 complaints)). This time it cost us $1800 for repairs. At least they didn't charge us to fix the recalled clock spring issue.
My question is, am I being screwed????? Seems like the same problems keep getting repaired and the costs just keep going up. BTW here is a link to a website dedicated to dodge tranny problems http://www.aei.ca/~gregoire/claude.html
I've run across this problem in the past (not on a Chrysler mini-van) and found that some shops that lathe cut rotors sometimes either ran the cutting speed too high or had a dull cutter. Factory supplied and most aftermarket "new" have the surfaces ground with a stone as opposed to cutting with a lathe tool. I've heard these be noisy for a while until the pad smooths the really rough parts out.
Pads can sometimes be noisy depending on their composition. Some full metallic pads are noisy.
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Finally, as a permanent solution you should shut off the AC about 5 min before you reach your destination (every time) and just run the fresh circulate.
Any suggestion is very appreciated.
Could be something wasn't reassembled correctly.
Regards,
Dusty
In a recent posting I failed to mention that after I arrived back home, I took my car to the Chrysler dealership. I had them check it out. They said the computer was malfunction probably. They would have to put a new one in. That they did. I drove the care for a couple of days and that one crashed. They then had to put a second computer in. That one worked. I only paid for the one and that was around $850.00. In addition to the battery! Has anyone else out there experienced a similar problem?
In short, I have a 2003 grand caravan, bought used in Dec. 2003, with about 9300 miles on it, in good condition. Now, it's July 2005, mileage is about 47500, and I'm looking at getting my 3rd set of brakes, 3rd set of rotors, and perhaps calipers, hoses, etc., as well. First brake change at 30747 miles, involved pads and rotors. About 10000 miles later, I end up needing a second change at 40460 miles, which involved calipers, hoses, and pads; the left hand caliper seized intermittently before the change, creating a grinding noise. I average 2100 miles per month, mostly in local driving.
I previously owned a new 2001 Subaru Outback, put about 53000 miles on it in approximately 24 months [about 2200 miles/month], changed brakes 2 times, never changed rotors or calipers or anything else. My driving habits are no different between the two vehicles.
Question: Do the 2003 grand caravans have problems with their brakes? Maybe I have a clunker as far as the brakes are concerned? Beyond the brake issue, the van is essentially satisfactory.
Thank you,
Frank
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I am so frustrated with the dealer. I called another service dept. and they said that had not had any problems with those. Any comments?
C.B.
so of course i floor it. (usually happens in the middle of an intersection) it will do that until i get home. start the van back up, then it will run fine for a couple more days. i did a visual inspection of motor. everything looks o.k. (air filter, vaccum lines, fluids.) though maybe bad gas. put in fuel injection cleaner. nothing different. also when it happens it will lose power. rpm guage will go between 100-200 and then go back to normal. oil guage does same thing. especially when i put it in park after driving. not all the time (most) when this all happens i won't even get a CHECK ENGINE light if anyone can help me i would appreciate it vry much. thanks