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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • chan1chan1 Posts: 5
    I have 2001 Chrysler Voyager. Everytime I turn my steering wheel the air bag light comes on. I took it to the dealer and they could find out why. Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Please help..... :cry:
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I haven't had this problem, but it could be related to a failure of the "clockspring" in the steering wheel assembly, which I believe feeds power to the airbag as the wheel is rotated. There was a recall on this part for a number of model years, so you may even be covered under a recall. Check with your dealer.
  • chan1chan1 Posts: 5
    I went into the NTSB and Chrysler website and didn't see anything on the clockspring. Should I ask the dealer again? Thank you for your assistance.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I would think your dealer would have some experience with the clockspring and what problems it causes, I know there was a recall and replacement for earlier year Caravans as our 1996 was subject to this recall, so I would talk to the service adviser specifically about your symptoms and suggest that you think it might be related to the clock spring, especially since the airbag light going on and off is related to turning the steering wheel.
  • chan1chan1 Posts: 5
    I just spoke to the dealer and they are telling me there was a recall between 1998 through 2000 vehicles. Well my van is 2001. Their attitude is it's your problem not our. I guess I have to pay for this myself. I also emailed the Chrysler Corp and explain my problem and my dissatisfaction. I hate to say this but what happens after the sale is customers problem. I probably never buy another Chrysler again. :mad: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    Clockspring is not that big of a deal. Part is not expensive, and you can install it yourself if you're handy.
  • chan1chan1 Posts: 5
    Well I talked to the dearler and it's going to cost $150. I want to thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.
  • slowhandslowhand Posts: 2
    I've searched for this problem and not found it exactly, so apologies up front if I'm repeating someone else's post.

    My 1998 T&C yesterday started, ran and quit after 5 seconds. It repeated the stunt. Then, it displayed no LED display for the odometer, trip meter, transmission function, no overhead console display and will not engage the starter at all. Nothing. Depressing the two outer buttons on the overhead console displays "ccd", then a dim flashing all display grid of the display. All upper dash lights operate nominally, (alarm, airbag, ABS, etc). I've checked the obvious (battery terminals, contacts etc.) Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a know 'issue' The T&C has 175000KM (Canadian) on it - well maintained and has been operating nominally. Suggestions are most welcomed. Regards and thanks for your expertise, everyone.
  • dennisctcdennisctc Posts: 1,168
    Well I talked to the dearler and it's going to cost $150. I want to thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.

    what I rip off!!!!! My company manufactures Clocksprings, we've quoted them to DCX. We charge about $10-$15 for one!!! talk about markup!!! We don't supply this specific Clockspring to DCX, and they're all soo very different or I'd send you one for free!!!

    I think a company by the name of Methode makes them for DCX.
  • johnbenderjohnbender Posts: 17
    It could be something as serious as a blown head. If you have a lot of miles on the engine the engine may need to be replaced. Usually loss of power and popping noises in the engine signals that the engine is about to go out. I had that same thing happen on a vehicle before, not a minivan, but the vehicle had over 200,000 miles on it. It started putting out and making a popping noise in the engine. I would take it to the shop for a diagnosis asap. You may also want to check and see if you are losing oil. If you are losing oil or the oil has water in it then you may have a blown head.
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    This is about the clockspring and what it controls. I hope it helps you. :sick:

    http://dodgeram.info/tsb/recalls/982.htm
  • ctocto Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Caravan. It appears that I have blown the fuse in the outlet that has permanent power (not the switched one above). The two outlets are located to the left of the storage area in the center console. The fuse for the switched outlet is in the relay/fuse box next to the battery but the one I am trying to locate is nowhere to be found. The Edmunds book for this year does not show the power outlets in the wiring diagram... Any suggestions?
  • :) oil levels are perfect. always have. it only does it for a few seconds. (less than five) but i will bring it to the shop to be hooked up. could it be the oxygen sensor? also it only has 100k on it. not bragging but is in showroom condition. sharp!? if you dont reply, thank you for your time.
  • johnbenderjohnbender Posts: 17
    I don't know if it could be the oxygen sensor or not, but I think you should definitely take it into the shop for a diagnosis. A blown head can occur at any mileage, but if you only have 100,000 miles on it, chances are your engine is still o.k. Although, I did see someone on these forums that was complaining they had to replace their engine on their caravan after about 80,000. All I know is the popping sound followed by a loss of power is a symptom of a blown head or a weak engine. Like I said you may want to check to see if there is water in the oil. Just pull out the dipstick and check to see if there are any tiny water droplets sticking to the oil on the dipstick. If you do see water, then that is not a good sign. If you do not see any water, then you probably do not have a blown head. Your best bet is to take in to the shop and have them look at it, at least then you'll know for sure what the problem is.
  • My dad has an '02 Grand Caravan and has had 2 A/C compressors installed already, both under warranty. Warranty is now off and he is concerned about future failures as these are not a cheap part. Are there any TSB's or other notices out about this. His van has the 3.3l engine if that matters. Any info is appreciated.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    The power for the powered outlet on the front console comes from a component named PTC7 is listed as a 13 amp fuse. I cannot locate it on my van either. PTC stands for positive temperature coefficients, and I suspect it is a circuit breaker relay type.
  • no water. taking it in on tuesday. wish me luck. thanks for everything....

    scamper225
  • daz1daz1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chrysler Voyager and recently went to start the engine and nothing no dash lights and just a clicking noise. After three attempts it started and was fine for a couple of days. My local garage said that something was probably draining the battery. Now the car will not start and I had a friend jump start it and after three pushes accelerator it just cut out. I have been told that the internal locking door switch has been touched and activiated the immobliser. Had this same problem 15 months ago and a new battery was fitted.

    Any views? :confuse:
  • johnbenderjohnbender Posts: 17
    Sounds like the battery. I just replaced the battery on my Voyager myself. I don't know why, but it seems like these Voyagers burn through batteries faster then other vehicles. If it has only been 15 months, your battery is probably still under warranty, just take it back to the place you bought it from. As far as the internal locking door switch problem, I'm not sure how to fix that problem, but my guess is that your vehicle will reset when a new battery is installed. Once the vehicle is disconnected from the battery for more then 5 minutes, the vehicle resets everything when it is hooked back up.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    While in for a routine oil change, I was told that our air condition compressor is under warranty to 70,000 miles. (we have an 01 DGC EX). I'd say check with your local Daimler chrysler dealer.
  • slowhandslowhand Posts: 2
    OK - so I've had a chance to dig into this *much* further and have some follow-up. According to a (well) trained Chrysler specialist. part of the problem occurred when I used the key to open the door. In doing so, I may have triggered the lock mechanism partially - opened the door and 'fooled' the alarm system into thinking I had broken into the car. The running and stopping is part of the alarm system designed to shut down the system if the car is stolen. After three tries the system is 'locked-out' of the process and will not start. Removing the battery cables from the terminals and leaving it overnight allowed the system to reset and it was completely operable by morning. A scan of the BCM (body control module) shows no errors.

    So... my question is has anyone else *ever* heard of this problem/feature and if so, is there any longer term problems relating to it? Any further problems with the BCM? Thanks.
  • atucker1atucker1 Posts: 1
    Was advised by a friend on this site, that I may find some assitance on a issue that I currently have. I got a 2000 Dodge GC with approx 55k miles on it. I've just moved from Michigan to Arizona due to a work. While changing the oil, I noticed that I have Rust surrounding the housing unit on my front left strut, viewed from the engine. When viewing this underneanth the car, i observe no rust. Looking in the warranty book, there is a note on Rust covering outside pannels up to 100,000 miles (I believe). Am I screwed due to being out of the basic warrantly or is this considered a outside pannel. I can allready guess what the dealership has to say on this manner.

    Any assistance would be appreciated
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan with a front end "thudding" noise, I have been to my mechanic and he said he does not know what the problem is without just starting to replace parts in hope that will fix it, he has looked it over and does not see anything wrong, all parts apprear to be in good working order, has anyone had this same problem and been able to get it fixed??
    Any information would be appreciated.....Thank You
  • rktechrktech Posts: 25
    I had an 01 Chrysler T&C which made an odd creaking, thudding noise from the left front shock area...had about 16,500 miles at the time. Anyway, I took it into Chrysler and they replaced the front sway bar link on the left side. Solved the problem nicely.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    We have a 01 DGC EX to which we had a similar noise when going over bumps. This is wait had to be replaced back in Nov. 2004. 1) Front link, sway bar; 2) Link-sway eliminator; 3) Bushing-sway eliminator and 4) Cushion, front sway bar. Cost was $173.12 in parts. Our mileage was 52K. Hope this helps. :shades:
  • swfeatureswfeature Posts: 6
    I have a 2005 SXT and I noticed that little pieces of plastic have broken off of the seats when I have stowed them. In the 2nd row, a few tiny white pieces have broken off - although I haven't noticed any impact on their operation. The cup holder on one side no longer folds away - which means I have to hold it up with one hand while I store the seat in the floor.

    On the rear seats, a panel that covers the seat when stowed away has broken one of it's attachment pieces. This means I can no longer slide things into the bed without the risk of snapping the rear panel off altogether.

    I've only stowed the seats about fifteen times in the year I've owned the car. I am actually a pretty careful person - so I don't think these pieces broke off due to carelessness or rough treatment. I'm taking the van in for service and I'm intrigued to see how the dealership handles my complaint and whether the seats are covered by warranty.

    Anyone else have these or similar problems out there?
  • jdybberjdybber Posts: 3
    I have a 3.3L Grand Caravan with a high idle at startup and throughout the driving range.This is what I have checked and replaced so far:
    Installed brand new AIS Motor:
    the connections are good to the AIS harness:
    there are no shorts shown with ohmeter at the harness:
    throttle body has been cleaned and throttle body gasket replaced:
    I have checked for vacuum leaks and can't find any:
    Vacuum is at a steady 15, but when I open and close throttle the reading drops below 5 (which is OK), but only goes back to 18 before settling at 15. Is the 18 normal or not? I suspect I should see 22 or so, but I am guessing here.
    The car will start at 1250 rpms and quickly rise to between 1750 and 2000.
    I disconnected battery to erase trouble codes, and after replacing AIS motor and driving
    5 minutes to go at least 40-45 mph the Code 25 (AIS motor issues) pops up. What steps do you recommend from here? I realize the ECM(Computer) is still a potential issue, but want to eliminate all before that step. I know enough to be dangerous, but I welcome your expertise so I can diagnose more effectively in the future. Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Fifteen is low for an idle vacuum, in my opinion. I'd continue to check for a vacuum leak. A bad PCV valve can cause this. If not vacuum related, this could also be caused by a defective Throttle Position Sensor.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • jdybberjdybber Posts: 3
    Dusty, The TPS reads within specs on Voltage checks ect. I did have another known good PCV and reading is the same.
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    Has anyone had any luck finding a good service manual for the latest generation of vans (01 and up)? The newest I've seen is a Haynes manual, which is for 96-2002, which I don't fully understand as the last gen. ended in 2000. There are some Chrysler factory manuals on ebay, but I'm not sure how friendly these would be to a driveway mechanic.

    Jason
  • bob80bob80 Posts: 1
    My 96 caravan (134,000 miles) does the same thing. Goes about 40 miles and will stumble, buck and die. After setting for about 30 min. will start and run. Engine light on. Dealer could not get van to repeat but code was for timing. He thought it could be fuel pump. Did not replace and van is running ok around town but afraid to take back on highway. Already had towed home twice. Any suggestions from those who have had same problem?

    Thanks
  • I am still looking for more info on the A/C compressor problems on '02 GC. I would like to know how to find tsb's and other info like that. thanx
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Factory service manuals and owners' books, through Dyment Distribution: fax 440 572 0815, phone (North America, possibly elsewhere) 800 890 4038.

    here's the link page, though you may very well have run across it yourself: http://www.allpar.com/resources.html

    Unfortunately, Helm Inc. does not seem to sell a service manual for Chrysler stuff. Just about everything I've ever needed to do on my Accord is in the Helm OEM Manual.

    The service manuals are worth the search, I've had Haynes and Chilton and they don't begin to compare (though they aren't really aimed at the same audience). But just recently in fact with the Haynes manual.....it was just plain wrong about something I needed to do and even the picture was wrong for my year even though according to the book it should have worked.

    Get the service manual and you will be able to figure it out.

    good luck!
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Bryaninoregon, click the "Maintenance Guide" link on Edmunds.com Tips Page to find Technical Service Bulletins for just about any vehicle.

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

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  • I live in SC, but my wife is taking care of her father's funeral in MI, so I am trying to diagnose this problem long distance. The radiator was recently replaced due to a crack in it, but some similar problems/symptoms are occuring. Sometimes (not all the time, but too many times to ignore), at highway speed (70+ MPH), with the a/c on, the temperature gauge slowly inches up past the normal range. It does not reach the point where the engine overheat dash signal comes on -- yet -- but it does go up too high and too freqently for my liking. The a/c will start blowing warmer air. (On the way up to MI, she was stuck on the highway for over 2 hours due to an accident, in hot weather, and at the beginning of this stand-still, w/the a/c on, the gauge started creeping up. She turned a/c off and gauge went back down to normal range for duration of stand-still.) My brother-in-law just yesterday replaced the upper radiator hose, saying there was a crack in it. My wife drove it immediately after that with no problems, however later when she drove it that day on the highway, the same problem occurred. Any help/suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

    [email protected]
  • mhipchenmhipchen Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan. While driving it one day not far from homeit jerked twice and the transmision blew up.Parts flew out of the bell housing on to the road. It did'nt have 40,000 miles yet.I know that the warranty ran out at 36,000 I contacted Chryslers help line. They wanted the original reciept, sounded fishy,I copied it at Kinkos and sent it off.Chrysler got back to me stating that there was nothing that they could do. I'd like to know if this happened to anyone else.What do I do now?
  • Thanx Claires, Hopefully the info we need is in there. :)
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    It sounds a lot like the other radiatior was blocked inside and that the system was not blown out properly. The debris could have circulated out of the old radiator and then be causing intermittent blockages in the new one. But if they did a good job flushing out the system before the replacement then this should not be the case.

    Considering it still heats up on the highway, I guess you can nearly rule out a cooling fan problem.

    Does it lose coolant at all?

    You could check the thermostat for proper operation or just go ahead and replace it. Takes about 15 mins and is usually a cheap part. It could be failing intermittently and trapping coolant.

    check back if you figure it out
  • pete77pete77 Posts: 12
    My '96 Grand Caravan is blowing warm air on the AC when the car is stopped in traffic. However, when we are moving - either city driving or on the freeway, the AC is blowing cool air.

    Any suggestions on what is causing this and what can be done to fix it.

    Thanks
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Obviously you need someone to check that a/c out but here are some possibilities:

    1) Low refrigerant charge.

    2) Check the condensor. If the compressor stops at idle it is probably running hot and the safety switch shuts the compressor down. It may be obstructed.

    3) Check the fan clutch to ensure proper operation. It may not be spinning fast enough at a stop to cool things off.

    4) In a related check, make sure all fans are working properly. If they aren't then it won't be cool at a stop. Airflow at higher speeds helps to cool things down. You may just not have enough air going over the condensor.

    give us a heads up if you find out what it is
  • cathccathc Posts: 3
    In my 98 Grand Caravan, both the front and rear 12V power supplies are not functioning. I checked the fuse chart, but there is no fuse listed for power supply. Everything else is working fine. Is there an easy way to fix this? Any help would be appreciated.
  • lastwraith: I flushed the system prior to the installation of the new radiator, so I don't think that is the problem but I will keep it in mind. I have told my wife just to go ahead and have someone put in a new thermostat for her since that is relatively cheap. Re: coolant loss, I don't know right now, because when it overheated the other day my brother-in-law decided it was a good idea to open the radiator cap with the engine hot, giving him a nice burn and causing the car to spray coolant. I'll have someone check on it in a few days.

    I am curious if you know about the operation of the twin cooling fans on this car. When should they come on: all the time? With the a/c on? Only when car starts to operate above normal temp? And, are both of them to come on, or just one and then the other kicks in upon the occurrence of a certain event (a/c, above normal temp, etc.). I am wondering if, for some reason, only one fan is coming on when two should be on.

    The interesting thing about this problem is that at speeds in excess of 70 mph for an extended period of time, the above normal temp will occur, but if you drop it down to 70 or lower, the temp goes back to normal range.

    Thanks..
  • cathccathc Posts: 3
    I used incorrect terminology in message 3025, "power supply not working" (it was late!). What I was (am) referring to are the power outlets. Thanks again for any help.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Of all the factory manuals I've ever used, the Chrysler-Dodge-Plymouth are the best in my opinion. They contain the most accurate and often other information that others do not. You will not have any trouble understanding them.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • pete77pete77 Posts: 12
    Thanks,

    I will have someone check it out and give you an update.

    Regards
  • can you tell me where the serpentine belt idler tension pulley is???
    My brother-in-law was trying to get the new serpentine belt back on w/ the help of another person but they can't get it to go on easily....almost like the belts to small...but he also can't find the tensioner pulley?? can you possibly explain where he needs to look?? help!! :) please email me back [email protected]
  • It is on a 1996 Chrysler minivan....Grand Caravan SE
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    On every DC van I have ever looked under the hood on there is a diagram showing how to weave the serpentine belt and the location of all the pulleys and the tensioner. you will need a long open end wrench to release the tension on the idler pulley until the serpentine belt is in position, then release the tensioner and it takes up all remaining slack in the belt. look for the diagram on the radiator support. please report back if you find it.
  • Bought this van used a few years ago. Front power outlet has never worked, but back one does (no problems with any other electrical features, either). Fuse is fine, so I took off the panel just underneath the power outlet. A wire that looks like it's ready to plug into something is hanging down, unplugged, but there is absolutely nowhere for it to go. There are other wires plugged in nearby (almost certainly the radio), but there is nowhere for this cord to go, and I'm almost certain it is connected to the power outlet. It's almost as if I'm missing an extension wire that goes into an outlet somewhere else.
    Anybody know what I can do here?
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    The power front outlet is controlled by 25 amp relay number 21.(Not a fuse) It is labeled cigar/acc relay it is located at top right of fuse box under the hood. If you have a relay in the top left swich the two to see if the cigar/acc outlet works, if not the wiring should be 1 red and 1 black wire going into a black 2 hole female connector that plugs into the rear of the power outlet. this info is from my 96 shop manual but I don't think it changed much until 2001
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