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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Evening group... I find myself needing to request your experience and expertise. The day after Christmas my 2000 ES with 3.2 and 48K miles began to refuse fuel. Specifically, I would attempt to refuel the car and it would cause the gas nozzle to "click" (stop pumping) after just a few cents. Obviously this is inconvenient and makes refueling VERY time consuming. My dealership was able to produce a service bulletin on the issue which requires approximately $350 to repair. Two questions: I don't recall seeing this among others here--has anyone experienced this. Second--if you have what did you do. While my car is out of warranty and mileage, I can't imagine that this is anything but a design/material/production flaw that was identified very late in the game.
    To his credit my 5 star service manager said that I should call the customer assistance line without hesitation. Am I being unreasonable or is something like this unacceptable? It's the only significant concern I've had in almost 49,000 miles.. Come on Dusty and others...let me know... Shake the trees....
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    jason,

    what is the fix? btw, did you try not inserting the gas nozzle so far into the opening (joke there somewhere)? if i remember right my 2000 would do what you are experiencing on occasion, but not frequently. also, did you go to different gas station vs usual? sounds silly but i think some gas pumps are more touchy than others. just throwing out some ideas...take care...
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Good to hear from you and thanks for replying. Yes...I did all the "well duh" kind of things regarding angle, insertation, pumping speed, using another nozzle, etc.etc..etc...but to no avail. Hmmmm...sounds like a conversation for Dr. Ruth...
    The fix--such as it is--involves a new valve, some "bypass" of some sort.. I have the technical bulletin but that doesn't get me past the feeling that this just shouldn't happen. I've NEVER in the history of an automobile heard of this happening..
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    If you are at all handy you might try from underneath the car,removing the filler neck rubber hose by loosening the hose clamps at the fuel tank and then see if anything is blocking the fuel from getting to the tank.Be sure you don't have a full tank when attempting this.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,070
    ...does that same trick with the gasoline. Has since the day it was new. In its case though, it only does it if you stick the nozzle all the way in, and flip the catch so that it pumps automatically without having to hold it.

    I've noticed though, that it happens at certain gas stations, and at some gas stations it's fine. Seems that it would always happen at Citgo. In fact, on Monday night I was taking the thing to the emissions test, and sucking fumes, so I pulled into a Citgo. Put the nozzle in, squeezed the handle, and got a nice splash-back of gasoline. If I put it in about half way though, and don't squeeze too hard (man, this conversation IS going downhill!), then I don't have a problem.

    My 'Trep's been good so far, though, in that respect. I did get a little scare on Sunday morning though. We had a heavy frost, and I was warming up the car. Went to click the wipers to do a single swipe, and they came up about an inch and then stopped. They were fine once I clicked them off and then back on, but this has me worried. It happened a few more times that day, but has been fine since then. I wonder if they're about to fail? Oh yeah, I'm at around 74,500 miles, so I'm well out of the original warranty. My extended warranty is good through 100K miles, but has a $200 deductible. Watch this end up costing $199 or something like that!
  • Anybody know of a good site(s) that sell Dodge extended warranties? I did a search but pretty much got Dodge.com and some non-Dodge warranties. Looking to add to the "Home for the Holidays" 7yr/100k powertrain coverage as we plan to keep this car at least 6 years.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    Morning group... Thanks for your on-going advice and counsel. Perhaps I should have told you that the dealership DID look the car over for blockages, etc. The service bulletin is issued for all LH models (Intrepid, 300M, Concorde & LHS) from 2000-2001. I'm hopeful that anyone on the board will let me know if they experienced the problem or had the roughly $400 "fix" completed..
  • tank36tank36 Posts: 1
    I am in the market for a used car. I originally started at a Nissan dealer who had an Intrepid for sale. I am looking at program cars, you know, the ones around 20,000 mile and previous rentals. Most of those are 2002. What do you consider a better car, STRATUS or INTREPID and what years are good in the used arena. Currently I'm looking at a 2000 Intrepid for $11,900 with 23,000 miles on it. Could someone give me some advice?
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,070
    ...because it's roomier and not that much more expensive, but they're both decent cars, especially now that the Stratus has a Mopar 2.7 V-6 instead of the older Mistubishi 2.5.

    I have an '00 base model 'Trep, currently with about 74,500 miles on it, and it's been pretty good so far. I've had the typical shrinkage of the rubber door moldings, a leaky thermostat housing, a bad power door lock actuator, and the remote passenger-side mirror quit working. No problems with the engine, tranny, or any of the really high-cost stuff, though.

    If you do get the Intrepid, make sure you change your tranny fluid every 30,000 miles. And make sure they use the proper fluid, Type +4/9196. This is critical. Any other fluid can be fatal to the tranny.
  • evandroevandro Posts: 1,108
    FWIW, the Intrepid has always had higher quality and reliability than the Stratus, besides being a full-size, i.e., more car for your buck, IMO.

    HTH
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    I would agree with Andre's assessment. I'm a large man so I give the nod to the larger car. I also find the Intrepid's suspension a bit better sorted out--though the Stratus seems fine. My 2000 ES has done extremely well with only a replacement CD player early on due to skipping (a somewhat common occurance) and most recently a problem with refueling. No serious or particularly costly items--tires replaced at 30K, front brake pads at 40K, dealer says I should consider replacing the accessory belt within the next 5000 miles (I'm just shy of 50,000 miles total). My mom and aunt have first gen Intrepids that are still going strong with no serious repairs.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,070
    ...that sounds like about the same intervals I got: 30K out of the tires (I was pushing it though, they were down to almost slicks!) and 39K out of the front brake pads. My rear pads got replaced around 51K, so you may be just about to that point with yours.

    I'm taking the car in to my mechanic soon, to have him check the belts, hoses, and coolant. The coolant's supposed to be good for 5 years/100K, but I'd rather have him check it out just to be safe. Supposedly, the spark plugs were also 5 year/100K, but mine also had to be replaced around 51K.

    I don't even know how long the belts are supposed to last. I'm still used to the old days, when it was 3/36K. Well, I'm at almost 75K now!

    One thing I did notice about the Stratus/Sebring, versus the Intrepid, is that up front, legroom seems to be about the same, and I can actually stretch my left leg out a bit further in the Stratus/Sebring. I could probably get along just fine with a Sebring or Stratus, but I like the Intrepid's extra shoulder room, and the back seat is much roomier, so it keeps the backseat riders' knees out of my back! The 'Trep's trunk is also noticeably larger, and I always preferred the more stable ride of a car with a longer wheelbase and wider stance.
  • duffer5duffer5 Posts: 10
    Got a little nervous with some new sounds and knew I was going to have some $$$ repairs coming up in the future, so we took advantage of the 60 month, 0% financing from DC.
        Wife and I decided to get a 2003 300M (light almond pearl/ with taupe interior + bells and whistles) Great road car like the Intrepid and handling is also agile like the Intrepid.
        Ottowrkr, liked your comments as well as the helpful information from the rest of the group.
    Thanks,gang!
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    great to hear about the 300. Enjoy.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,070
    ...congrats on the 300M! Glad to see you've had a good enough experience with Chrysler to get another! How many miles did that '95 Intrepid have on it?

    I went to the DC auto show back in December, and I think out of all the cars there (well, the ones in my price range, at least!) if I had to go get another new car, it'd be another LH car.

    They had a silver '03 SXT there, and sitting in it felt exactly like my '00 base model. The only thing I don't like is that they swapped out the cloth inserts on the door panels for vinyl. I guess it matches the optional leather better, and is cheaper for them to just make all the door panel inserts the same. Still, I kinda liked the cloth. It was just one of those extra touches that made the base Intrepid feel like it was a step or 2 above a base Impala, Taurus, or the other cars in its class.
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Don't know if you got your problem solved or not, but here is the info of that TSB you were looking for. TSB 14-003-01
    Fuel tank slow to fill.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Nice to see you here. :-)
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Hi Pat,
    thanks, gonna try and make a habit of it. :)
  • homerkchomerkc Posts: 113
    I just read a post elsewhere that pointed out most people only post if they have problems. I have had little problems with a 2000 Intrepid (base) bought new almost three years ago. It has 47,000 miles, maintained regularly, and has cost me nothing beyond maintenance. It has original brakes, etc, though the tires were replaced at 35K miles (some tread left, but....) It is comfortable, economical - a very good car. It makes me want to look at Chrysler cars FIRST. DC should be proud of their products these days.
  • Have a question for the group, what are the possible thing that could be wrong with a Intrepid that has the check engine light on and is showing the misfire code. I changed plugs and wire's so far, did not help, even though the old plugs were severely toasted.
  • Had the same problem in my 2002 Intrepid (2.7L) this past summer. First they changed some plugs and wires. Then a new computer. Still no fix. Wound up needing some new fuel injectors. Lucky for me I was under warranty...I have no idea how much this trial and error repair effort would have cost if it wasn't.

    Also, it was comforting to have them tell me each time I went in there that they "had never seen the code before" as far as what they were reading on the computer.
  • The '95 Intrepid ES had 102K on it when I traded it in on a 300M. Been a really good car but the maintenance was really important: changed the oil + filter every 3000 miles; changed transmission fluid every 30,000 miles; changed coolant every 2 years; changed brake fluid (anti-locks)every 2 years. Brakes and other maintenance items were also reasonable. Still had original exhaust system. Work was done by a local garage after the warranty expired.
    Did have some problems @60,000 miles--replaced timing belt and water pump (3.5 Engine) Also had to replace the AC--partially reimbursed by Chrysler. Had to change the check engine module at 85,000 (after the 80,000 emissions warranty. Decided to stay with Chrysler for a trip car.
    Really like the 2003 Chrysler 300-styling is great, lots of power, great touring car. 0% financing for 60 months also was a great deal. My sister-in-law also has a 300M (2001) which convinced us to buy one.
  • Greetings....

    I've been lurking for some time...thought it about time introduced myself.

    I've got a '95 ES with the 3.3L engine. I've had some minor issues and a couple of major ones, too. The car's approaching 200K on the odometer, so it's seen some highway since I bought it (used...I'm the 3rd owner, apparently) with 49K on the meter.

    The car's on it's 3rd transmission (1 at 56K under warranty, the next at 120K on my nickel) which seems troubling. I'm much more religious about the tranny fluid now! A/C hasn't worked in years...I'm told the condensor leaks (lousy design?) and fails repeatedly. Not really an issue, except for 1-2 days per year as long as I don't sit in traffic on I-294!

    Now I'm looking at two significant repairs:
    Airbag clock spring ($385 P/L)
    Multi-function Switch (brights/turn signal/cruise) @ $458!!!

    I've replaced the two headlamp switches previously. The dealer now says that the new M/F Switch has a harness change. I couldn't find any data on a TSB about this...has anybody else had this?

    Interesting to hear the comments about door seals...thought I was the beneficiary of Monday AM build quality, as the rains come in if/when I go through a car wash. That'll get fixed next week!

    Overall...I like the car, but don't "love" it. Ride is good, power is OK. Styling is a real positive. Fit/finish are OK, or will be as soon as I fix the door seals. Audio system leaves something to be desired..this too can be fixed. Still, after 200K, it looks good...and it's long since paid for. I regularly cast longing looks at newer cars such as the Maxima, but, given the high mileage I run regularly (750-1,000 miles/week) it seems crazy to shell out $25K for a depreciating asset.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    cheddarhead- 200K wow not bad for that kind of mileage. First off why are you changing the clockspring?? The multifunction switch was a problem , I have had to change 3 on my 94. I cant belive the prices you quote , are they dealer prices?? I would not by these from a dealer , why dont you check a few wrecking yards for these parts. These are very simple parts to change but I just cant see spending close to 1000 $ for them WAY OVERPRICED !!!
  • I drive one as a company car. 36,000 km in 8 months and I can say not too many problems except a reoccurring high pitched whine on the highway in cold weather.

    The dealer is stumped and thinks it may be coming from the tranny but refuses to open the tranny up (surprised?). Anyone have any ideas what it may be?
  • there is a sale ad for dodge intrpid 1996 model for about $4500. I wanted to know about the maintance cost and the mileage for this car...any help is greatly appreciated.
  • A good friend of mine had a 1995 Intrepid and had over $ 6000 of repairs done in 2 years. The worst of which was replacing the transmission twice. My friend ended up dumping the car for whatever he could get for it. The car only had 100,000 mi. when he sold it. The car was such a piece of crap! I drive one, but I would never buy one!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,070
    ...which engine does that '96 Intrepid have in it? The 3.3 isn't as torquey as the 3.5, so it's not as hard on the transmission. BTW, the tranny did have some running changes made for '96, so the '96-97 'treps tend to be less troublesome than the '93-95 (or the previous Dynasty/NYer, which had that same tranny).

    I've known a few people who have gotten well over 100,000 miles out of their first-gen Intrepids, with no tranny problems, although one buddy, with a '94 Concorde 3.5, had a/c problems and water pump problems.

    One of the biggest problems with the transmission is putting the wrong fluid in. They're supposed to take Type +4 (or 9196), but often Type +3 (7176) gets put in, and it's rougher on the tranny. I think for awhile, the owners manuals even erroneously had Type +3 printed in them.

    How many miles are on this '96? $4500 doesn't sound like too bad of a price, but keep in mind it's almost 8 model years old...any car that age can be a gamble. First thing I'd probably do is get the tranny serviced, unless you have records proving that it was recently done, and using the correct fluid.
  • I forgot to mention the miles.. its got 71,000 on it and its 3.3 V6 engine. Drove the vehicle and it runs pretty smooth. Only thing i noticed was the brakes and alignment needed to be worked upon. The seller is ready to give for 3500$....now that the brakes need some work. Is there any way i can figure out if the transmission is bad? And what about the gas mileage for this car ... does it guzzle too much gas.
    ThankS for all replies...it helps.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 22,070
    ...find out just how much work the brakes need. After 71,000 miles, I don't think you could do TOO much damage to the brakes, but if it needed new pads and rotors all around (I think they were 4-wheel disk back then, weren't they?), then you could be looking at some serious money. If you have bad wheel calipers, a bad master cylinder, or whatever, that could also run into some serious money. There's just so many different things that can go wrong with brakes, it's safe to see how much it's going to cost, up front.

    Same with the alignment. Maybe the car's just out of alignment, which is a simple enough fix...and cars can go a long time nowadays without needing one. My 00 Trep went about 62,000 miles before needing its first alignment. But then if some suspension component is actually bent or broken, again you could be looking as some serious money.

    The 3.3 V-6 is a fairly simple, rugged pushod engine that I believe made its debut in the Dynasty and New Yorker around 1989 or 1990. By '94 it was putting out around 161 hp, which, for a base engine, was decent at the time. I have a co-worker whose Mom traded a '94 3.3 for a '99 2.7, and even though the 2.7 has 200 hp, she liked the '94 better! It had better low-end torque, so it would take off the second you tapped the gas pedal, and that's the way she'd been used to driving. With the 2.7, it is faster, but you have to really rev it to get the peak power, and she wasn't used to stomping on a car like that.

    The 3.3 is still used in minivans, as is the 3.8, which is an enlarged version of it. With older Intrepids, you're probably better off, reliability-wise, with the 3.3. It's simpler, and I believe it's also chain-driven, whereas the 3.5 has a timing belt. The 3.3 also didn't have the water pump problems that the earlier 3.5's had.

    As for fuel economy, the EPA rates the '96 Intrepid 3.3 at 19/27. That's probably a touch lower than cars like the Ford Taurus or Chevy Lumina at the time, but then the 'Trep is a heavier, roomier car than either of those two.

    As for the transmission, probably the first thing to do would just pull the dipstick and see how the fluid looks. It should be a pinkish color. If it smells burnt, or has too much of a brownish/grayish/blackish color to it, there could be a problem. If you see lots of little metallic flecks in it, be weary. When you drive it, make sure it shifts fairly smoothly through all 4 gears upon acceleration, and goes smoothly in reverse. All transmissions make some noise when they shift, if you listen carefully for it. If it sounds like it's straining to shift gears, or holding the gears too long and over-revving the engine, there could be problems. From what I've heard, when these transmissions do fail, they don't do it immediately...they actually do give signs and a gradual decrease in performance. So if it doesn't feel "right" when you're driving, there might be impending problems. Sometimes it might just need a servicing or adjustment though, so it's not a guaranteed sign of a bad tranny. Again, I hate to sound like a broken record, but have a mechanic you trust check it out.

    Anyway, good luck! For $3500, it sounds like a decent deal, provided that the brakes and alignment don't require too much work.
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