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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • smfransmfran Member Posts: 432
    I have the same problem on my '00 SSEi. My dealer (who is excellent) has checked everything to no avail. Their last recommendation was to clean my K+N air filter which they say is now dirty. I'll try that in the near future.
  • brycenbrycen Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the response. What's the K+N filter?
    My '01 only has 7900 miles on it. Its hard to believe any filter needs changing at this mileage. I should have mentionned in the original posting that the car drops into 4th at 30 MPH on a level road and the RPMs drop. I assume that means the TCC is engaged. I just want to enjoy the car
  • smfransmfran Member Posts: 432
    The K+N air filter is an aftermarket air filter replacement. It is basically a lifetime unit that may only need periodic cleaning. It supposedly improves performance, HP, and MPG.
  • gwscottgwscott Member Posts: 2
    Hood release cable is not operating latch. Anyone know of a way to get the hood up to make proper repairs? Sounds like something is moving at the latch when I operate the cable, so I don't think the cable itself has broken but need a way to get at the latch to check it.....help!
  • smfransmfran Member Posts: 432
    My hood release was not functioning properly in one of my past Bonnevilles, but I got the hood open by pushing down on it at the very front, and it popped up.
  • xavier64xavier64 Member Posts: 76
    Has anyone else had the plastic shield that is in the back of the trunk have to be reglued?

    It seems the latest heat wave has caused the plastic piece that is right behind the rear seat to become unglued. It is not much of a bother but since the rear seat does not fold down, I would expect more than glue to hold it up.

    I am sure some super glue would fix it but I will be going to the dealer soon for another oil change and just have them fix it under warrenty.

    This is the first build issue I have had with the car being made last June. Otherwise, so far so good.

    steve
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Actually that piece just fell off my 2002 Aurora (same platform as the Bonnie). I thought it was a bit surprising that it was just held on with adhesive too. I mean, why not a screw or two? I couldn't seem to find any info in the service manual about the proper installation or removal of that piece. The only trunk trim pieces in the manual appear to be held in with screws. Please post any info you aquire from the dealer about it. For now, mine is just laying in the trunk. It's a little too minor to go to the dealer for.
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    Some of you have already discovered that some pretty serious water leaks on your Bonnevilles were fixed by the dealer resealing or reseating various decklid components. There's a TSB out on that, and there are four causes: improperly seated CHMSL (third brake lamp); improperly seated rear decklid applique (plastic panel between taillamps); loose spoiler retaining nuts; and sheet metal leak through welds behind rear decklid applique (yikes!).
  • xavier64xavier64 Member Posts: 76
    Bob,

    I will keep you updated. What is strange is that it was fine all last year. I guess the glue only has a 6 month warranty. What do you call that piece in the trunk behind the rear seat anyway??

    Take care,

    Steve
  • ricks2ricks2 Member Posts: 17
    Weird problem with my 94 SSE (119K miles)...

    Sometimes (very infrequent) it will stall for no apparaent reason when I take my foot off the gas (ie., when coasting down the exit ramp on a the highway or coming to stop light). Like I said, this happens very infrequently and I cannot realiably reproduce it. Any suggestions?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I'm not positive what it is called. The Service Manual refers to a part called the Rear Compartment Front Trim Panel, and this would be my guess that this is what it is. It seems to be the same part, except in the manual it has two tabs at the top that are parallel with the horizon. They screw into the top of the trunk to hold it in. However, other than the tabs, it appears to be the same part (it's got the hole for the trunk pass-through and an angled cut on the driver's side to clear some wires). There is no mention of using adhesive or anything. I wonder why our cars don't match the manual, and why they decided to use adhesive instead of the screws.

    Interestingly, for removal of that piece, the manual shows that the front sill (by the trunk opening) and the side trim panels and the floor trim (which the spare tire sits in) all have to be removed to remove this Rear Compartment Front Trim Panel. Obviously, none of those had to be removed for it to fall off into the trunk...
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    Wow, that name's a mouthful!

    There is a TSB about this, and it simply says to remove the trim panel, remove the two arms/straps (I assume they must be cut off?), and reattach the panel using tie wraps. Sounds kind of hokey, but it's the official repair from GM!
  • andyman09111andyman09111 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Pontiac Bonneville and the horn doesnt work the steering wheel radio controls dont work the padding on the roof is falling a part (every Gm vehcile i owned had interior prom.) so many little things that drive me NUTs also it smells ( thats not a big prob.) to much plastic stuff I mean everything is plastic!!! its a great car but might not buy new (cost around 26,000-24,000)
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Well, I readhered mine using Permatex Super Weatherstrip adhesive. That stuff is super gummy, plus it isn't corrosive or anything. It also can be removed without ruining the metal it's stuck to. So far so good. I don't see where the piece could be tie-wrapped. The bar above it doesn't seem like you can get around it with the tie-wrap. Interestingly, my trim piece has three holes in it above the pass-through opening (offset to the passenger side), but no corresponding holes on the frame.
  • xavier64xavier64 Member Posts: 76
    Thanks for the input on the Back trim panel. Took the Bonnie up to Reading PA and enjoyed the WWII weekend airshow. Always nice to do some driving on the highway instead of around the suburbs.

    Take care and thanks again for the info...sxb
  • fantascpfantascp Member Posts: 175
    Hi everyone- have not posted in a while- got a problem that just happened on the way home tonight- the drivers side power window/express
    on my 98 SSE- (black button) all others grey-
    i just get a clicking sound coming from inside the door panel- no movement in the window- frozen- will not go down.- question is- is it the actual power window motor that went bad or is it a bad fuse- i didn't get a chance to look in the fuse box area under the hood -it was too dark when i got home. The window worked fine before this happened with no indication of any problems(unlike my 2000 SE that had the window crunching at times when it was finished going all the way up.)
    also- if it is the window motor- how difficult is it to replace?
    Any help would be appreciated

    Chuck
  • mhess1mhess1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 Bonneville that has 101k Miles on it. Every now and then it will quit while going down the road or just will not start from a previous stop. The engine turns over and it acts like it wants to start. I can not hear the fuel pump make its prime noise when this happens. Another thing that is funny is the power windows will not work when this happens. With the switch on you can trigger the power windows and they will not work. This also causes the interior lights to go out when you trigger the power window. Eventually the car will start back and run fine for sometimes a day. I am wondering if the crankshaft sensor is involved. Everything else has been replaced, igninion switch, coils, computer. Any feedback would help.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check both battery cables, both ends.
  • mhess1mhess1 Member Posts: 2
    The positive cable that has two cables going to it was loose. Not very bad but I could turn it with my hand if I really put some tourque on it. I tightened it up the best I could. I can not move it now. Do you think that could have been the problem? Thanks for your help.
  • addiesgramaddiesgram Member Posts: 1
    My Bonneville SSEi is 9 months old, 15,300 mi. and has had the transmssion mount replaced, TSS replaced, transmission replaced twice, fuel pump replaced once, fuel pump module replaced once. The car stopped dead on the road losing all power after I had to take it back because the linkage in the gear shift was not set properly with the 2nd new transmission. Anyone else having these problems. Love the Bonneville - hate the problems.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the symptoms are gone, you found the problem.
  • gclipegclipe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 bonneville that has a problem w/the ac/heating system not coming on sometimes. If the system is set to be on, it will remain completely off and then come on without doing anything else. I have been told by one mechanic that it is a problem in the computer system. Has anyone experienced this problem (with possible solutions and costs).
  • hubeyhubey Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Bonny SE. The car would not start and the security light was flashing. I cleaned the two contacts with a q-tip as recommended in earlier posts. It still would not start with the security light flashing. I guessed that one of the two wires was broke inside the steering column. If I could have figured out how to take it apart, I would have fixed it myself. Unfortunately I couldn't and 200 dollars later I'm the proud owner of a new lock cylinder with 2 new keys. The dealership wouldn't just splice the wires. Now that I have the car back, the radio display does not work. Is this just coincidence? Is there any connection between the theft deterrent key system and the radio? The radio plays fine but there just isn't any time or station display. Could they have messed something up when they were replacing the lock cylinder?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    hubey

    PS - Great forum. Bought the Bonny very cheap because the owner thought the tranny was going out. After reading many posts, I fixed it with new plugs, AC Delco wires and one replaced coil pack. Runs great now.
  • rsgusrsgus Member Posts: 6
    Any suggestions why my interior lights have suddenly decided to stay on my 96 Bonnty ?
    Had to pull fuse, can't find door buttons to see if broke or stuck. Is there a fuse for time delay or ???? This seems like a really supid thing to
    have happen. Also my radio display is out too.
    Must be a common problem.
    Thanks for any help.
  • burnedbygmburnedbygm Member Posts: 5
    After topping off the Oil Level in the Supercharger on my 1993 Bonneville, the oil fill plug fell off my allen wrench and dropped down on top of the engine where I can't see or get to it. I have called around and was given Part Number #24500661 but I need one now and all the dealers have to order it. Anyone know if there is a standard plug available at a parts store that will work or where I can find one quick?
    Thanks,
  • wnewellwnewell Member Posts: 14
    If your original plug did not have a flange on it, it probably is just a pipe plug. you could pick one up at local hardware and maybe use a little teflon tape on it.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    that you don't damage the threads with the wrong screw. Maybe you should try taping over the hole to keep oil from splashing out, or using gasket sealer to seal some cardboard or plastic over the hole as a temporary fix. You might also try moving the car to see if you can get the screw to fall onto the ground.
  • zreddzredd Member Posts: 3
    I have an '00 Bonne and its been getting these chips and peels around the keyswitch and anything else that gets touched on the dash.

    I've owned lots of cheap cars that didn't do this!

    Any soln's?
  • burnedbygmburnedbygm Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the suggestions guys. After checking with all the GM dealers within 50 miles and all the parts stores, I prayed for Gods help with this problem and took my magnetic pickup and began "fishing" around below the supercharger on the top of the engine. After about 2 minutes, I pulled out the pickup and there was the plug, stuck to the magnet! I had tried for about an hour when I first dropped the plug and couldn't find it at all. The plug was a special, flanged with o-ring because pressure builds up in the supercharger. I'm back on the road.
  • cbloucblou Member Posts: 3
    Hey everyone, I just purchased a '95 SSEi, 71K miles. Everything was great when I bought it. I loaded it up for a trip and noticed both the "Performance Ride" and "Touring Ride" lights are on next to the gear shift. I unloaded the car at my destination and have tried disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes, jacking up the rear of the car, and jacking up the front of the car. No help. The ride is smooth. When I first turn on the ignition, I can select either option. In about 10 seconds, they both light up.
    Quite annoying. Any suggestions?

    CBLou
  • montanafanmontanafan Member Posts: 945
    I believe if both lights are on, it indicates a problem with the system. A dealer would have to retreive any trouble codes. I also think if you check some recent posts, you might find that replacement parts may no longer be available. All 4 struts may have to be replaced. Have a dealer check it out. Good luck.
  • doxleydoxley Member Posts: 4
    At 500 miles my 2002 Bonneville SLE needed a new alternator. At 6700 miles my car needed a new alternator. I picked it up last week. I now have 7000 miles on my car and the alternator went out again today. Can anyone give me any insite as to what is going on?
  • sse97bnvllesse97bnvlle Member Posts: 19
    I remember seeing those posts a while ago about someone not being able to find those parts (struts and modules or whatever) Well about a month ago I had to replace struts on my 97 sse. I dont have the computer command ride but I do have the self leveling rear suspension. Every place I checked carried stuff for the computer command ride suspensions. I had more trouble finding stuff for just the suspension I have than the ccr suspension. Try acdelco.com or for the struts, try monroe or some other company that builds struts. o yea tirerack.com has struts for the ccr suspension too. But if its computer stuff than Id go w/ acdelco.com www.gmpartsdirect.com
  • cbloucblou Member Posts: 3
    The ride seems to be adjustable from soft to firm. I will probably live with it for now. Can't really see paying $500 for struts when the ride and handling is still good. I was hoping there was some way to reset the CCR computer or the sensors. I'll try checking all the connections this week to see if anything is loose or corroded.
  • fantascpfantascp Member Posts: 175
    I have a 98 SSE- about 3 weeks ago my drivers side window locked in the up position and would not open- this morning i just decided to try it again and the window worked- according to my local mechanic, there is a BAD SPOT in the window regulator and it will happen again and your window might be down when it does, than can't go back up. I'm throwing this out to the board members- Is it possible that there is a bad connection at the window switch and its the switch and not the regulator thats bad? If there was a bad spot in the window regulator- how did it manage to move to work again? Any help on this is appreciated.

    Chuck
  • xavier64xavier64 Member Posts: 76
    Took the Bonnie in to have the plastic panel that is against the rear seat repaired. According to the dealer, GMs fix does not work and the dealer fastened the end cap panel in the trunk with some screws. The service rep said that this panel needs to be removeable to access items for the rear speakers. This was covered under warrenty (01 Bonneville) and so far so good.

    Steve
  • jwallyjwally Member Posts: 71
    HELP I have a shuttering noise when my air conditioning fan (passenger side) of my 96SE bonni kicks on.I replaced the fan motor but still have problem.the fan only shutters for a second or two every time the fan kicks on.
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    Recently, I took my Tahoe on a road trip. On the last day I drove for 14 hours, 12 of which I ran the air conditioning during rainy conditions. When I got home, I noticed that there was so much condensation in the evaporator case that a small amount of water was seeping through the seams and onto the passenger footwell. It's never done that before, but I've never run the A/C for 12 hours straight in humid conditions.

    Back home in Florida, it has been raining almost every day since then. About a week after the road trip, I started getting a musty odor when I first turn the fan on (usually in the morning after the truck has been parked overnight). I'm guessing that some sort of fungus is growing on the evaporator core.

    The GM repair is to apply a Cooling Coil Coating, which is supposed to eliminate and inhibit microbial growth on the evaporator core. The other recommendation is to install an electronic module that cycles the fan for a couple of hours after the engine has been shut off, to dry the core out.

    I've also read that this condition may go away on it's own. In the four years with the truck (all in Florida), this has never happened before, so maybe it will go away. Or maybe not. I'm thinking if it doesn't, I'll try this aerosol. It seems like a do-it-yourself job, but the service manual for my Tahoe doesn't really tell you how to do it. I think it involves removing the blower motor resistor, which is inaccessible without taking the I/P apart. Another way might be to drill a hole in the case and spray it in there. There appears to be a knock-out hole on the underside of the case, but I'm not sure what that's for. In any event, I'm not going to bother with the module -- I just try to run the fan without the A/C for a minute or two before I shut the engine off, but I'm not sure that's enough to dry things out.

    Reading through the Bonneville service manual, it turns out that 2000+ models with the automatic climate controls have this "afterblow" feature built-in. It must be disabled when the vehicle leaves the factory, but it can be turned on and off using a Tech2 scan tool. Unfortunately, that means a trip to the dealership service department. I don't have any odor in my Bonnie yet, but I'm wondering if it's worthwhile to have this feature turned on to ward off the possibility of mold and mildew growing in there. It won't run if the battery voltage is below 12, so it wouldn't drain a weak battery.

    Anyone have any experience with this?
  • ptacekjptacekj Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I'm a new member trying out the town hall so bear with me if I do it wrong. Thanks. I repair light damage rebuildables every now and then and I'm currently working on a 2000 Bonneville SSEI. It was hit in the left front. Mostly fender, control arm, left drive axle damage. The axle was yanked out of the transmission. Didn't appear to hurt the transmission but now that I have all the cosmetic damage fixed, I've discovered that the transmission doesn't shift out of 1st until about 35 miles an hour. After that it seems to work fine. Also the "check engine light" is on and the tire pressure indicator on dash says check my tires. My concern is the transmission. I will be bringing it to a very good tranny place but was wondered if anybody has ever had experience with this kind of symptom. I've checked for broken wires, connectors, and any other visable signs of damage but everything looks in order. Any advise???
  • jek132jek132 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 Bonneville. Besides the trunk collecting water,as some of you have mentioned and replacing the original motor with another 89(previous owner thought the oil was never to be changed), I have never had a problem. Until now. Driving from home to Bowling Green, Ky., the hood latch disengaged. Thank goodness for the secondary latch! I cannot find any alignment problems and the latch and bar meet perfectly. I even put some 3-1 oil in case the mechanism had gooped up. Any ideas besides my local mechanic,he's good but giving up the car for 3 days is hard, would be helpful!
  • queenpdwqueenpdw Member Posts: 1
    '98 Bonney with 65,000 miles & the engine light comes up with code 1811. One of the things to check is a computer update...called pontiac itself & a dealer neither can tell me if one even exists for the transmission & their test will only show the 1811 code as well. A mechanic thinks it maybe a solenoid but can't tell until it is apart. Can anyone help please? Thanks!!!
  • cdilliecdillie Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Bonneville and every time I go over a bump or turn the "brake" light on the dashboard comes on (if it were only that!). As soon as it comes on the wonderful sound of the door chime comes on. It will stay on until I hit the next big bump. It is so annoying that I don't want to get in the car. Any help would be appreciated.
  • smfransmfran Member Posts: 432
    Make sure all the tires are inflated properly and then "reset" the tire pressure indicator. The message will now read "Tire pressure normal". If it returns after awhile to "check tire pressure", one or more of the tires has a leak.
  • desertrat6desertrat6 Member Posts: 5
    Recently purchased a '98 Bonneville. Only problem is the fan doesn't seem to blow much air. High on this car would be about medium on other cars I own. Is this characteristic of a Bonneville or is there something wrong?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    GM has had a problem with AC evaporator cores leaking refrigerant. Oil leaks out too, coating the evaporator. As air passes over the evap, dust and dirt stick to the oil restricting air flow. On some, the blower motor can be removed from the engine side and the evaporator core is visible. Brake cleaner, then a garden hose, will clean off the surface. Eventually it'll happen again if the evaporator isn't replaced.
  • desertrat6desertrat6 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advice. I'll check it out. What should it cost to replace the evaporator?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    According to the Mitchell labor guide, it's 3.2 hours to replace the evaporator core. Add 1.5 hours to recover what's still in the system, evacuate it after the repair, and recharge. Cores here in Ontario are about $250 Cdn. Probably a lot less in US dollars where you are. Usually, the low air flow concern is accompanied by a lack of AC cooling complaint. The oil that ends up on the outside of the core leaks from the same point that refrigerant has been leaking. If the system's full, and pressures and cooling are good, this condition might not apply to your situation.
  • sse97bnvllesse97bnvlle Member Posts: 19
    I have a question. My car vibrates at highway speeds. Sometimes not too bad...othertimes pretty bad. It seems to be coming from the front and back and something in the suspension in both front and back just doesnt feel right...like a loose kinda feeling. Its more like a vibration-rumble type feeling and you can feel it through the steering wheel too. Any ideas? Tie rods and everything seem to be fine. What about the balljoints could those be going out maybe? It seems like its slowly getting worse but I dont have the money to pay a mechanic to check it out right now.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Look for wheel imbalance, damaged wheel or tire, loose wheel bearing, worn inner or outer tie rod, loose ball joint.
  • pbfanpbfan Member Posts: 1
    My '93 Bonneville SSE with 65K miles has on two occasions experienced a stalling problem when the gas tank is about 20% full. Once I fill up the gas tank (about 12-13 gallons to fill) the problem goes away and the car runs fine. Any ideas (fuel pump??) on what the problem may be?
    Thanks in Advance
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