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Comments
My '01 only has 7900 miles on it. Its hard to believe any filter needs changing at this mileage. I should have mentionned in the original posting that the car drops into 4th at 30 MPH on a level road and the RPMs drop. I assume that means the TCC is engaged. I just want to enjoy the car
It seems the latest heat wave has caused the plastic piece that is right behind the rear seat to become unglued. It is not much of a bother but since the rear seat does not fold down, I would expect more than glue to hold it up.
I am sure some super glue would fix it but I will be going to the dealer soon for another oil change and just have them fix it under warrenty.
This is the first build issue I have had with the car being made last June. Otherwise, so far so good.
steve
I will keep you updated. What is strange is that it was fine all last year. I guess the glue only has a 6 month warranty. What do you call that piece in the trunk behind the rear seat anyway??
Take care,
Steve
Sometimes (very infrequent) it will stall for no apparaent reason when I take my foot off the gas (ie., when coasting down the exit ramp on a the highway or coming to stop light). Like I said, this happens very infrequently and I cannot realiably reproduce it. Any suggestions?
Interestingly, for removal of that piece, the manual shows that the front sill (by the trunk opening) and the side trim panels and the floor trim (which the spare tire sits in) all have to be removed to remove this Rear Compartment Front Trim Panel. Obviously, none of those had to be removed for it to fall off into the trunk...
There is a TSB about this, and it simply says to remove the trim panel, remove the two arms/straps (I assume they must be cut off?), and reattach the panel using tie wraps. Sounds kind of hokey, but it's the official repair from GM!
Take care and thanks again for the info...sxb
on my 98 SSE- (black button) all others grey-
i just get a clicking sound coming from inside the door panel- no movement in the window- frozen- will not go down.- question is- is it the actual power window motor that went bad or is it a bad fuse- i didn't get a chance to look in the fuse box area under the hood -it was too dark when i got home. The window worked fine before this happened with no indication of any problems(unlike my 2000 SE that had the window crunching at times when it was finished going all the way up.)
also- if it is the window motor- how difficult is it to replace?
Any help would be appreciated
Chuck
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
hubey
PS - Great forum. Bought the Bonny very cheap because the owner thought the tranny was going out. After reading many posts, I fixed it with new plugs, AC Delco wires and one replaced coil pack. Runs great now.
Had to pull fuse, can't find door buttons to see if broke or stuck. Is there a fuse for time delay or ???? This seems like a really supid thing to
have happen. Also my radio display is out too.
Must be a common problem.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks,
I've owned lots of cheap cars that didn't do this!
Any soln's?
Quite annoying. Any suggestions?
CBLou
Chuck
Steve
Back home in Florida, it has been raining almost every day since then. About a week after the road trip, I started getting a musty odor when I first turn the fan on (usually in the morning after the truck has been parked overnight). I'm guessing that some sort of fungus is growing on the evaporator core.
The GM repair is to apply a Cooling Coil Coating, which is supposed to eliminate and inhibit microbial growth on the evaporator core. The other recommendation is to install an electronic module that cycles the fan for a couple of hours after the engine has been shut off, to dry the core out.
I've also read that this condition may go away on it's own. In the four years with the truck (all in Florida), this has never happened before, so maybe it will go away. Or maybe not. I'm thinking if it doesn't, I'll try this aerosol. It seems like a do-it-yourself job, but the service manual for my Tahoe doesn't really tell you how to do it. I think it involves removing the blower motor resistor, which is inaccessible without taking the I/P apart. Another way might be to drill a hole in the case and spray it in there. There appears to be a knock-out hole on the underside of the case, but I'm not sure what that's for. In any event, I'm not going to bother with the module -- I just try to run the fan without the A/C for a minute or two before I shut the engine off, but I'm not sure that's enough to dry things out.
Reading through the Bonneville service manual, it turns out that 2000+ models with the automatic climate controls have this "afterblow" feature built-in. It must be disabled when the vehicle leaves the factory, but it can be turned on and off using a Tech2 scan tool. Unfortunately, that means a trip to the dealership service department. I don't have any odor in my Bonnie yet, but I'm wondering if it's worthwhile to have this feature turned on to ward off the possibility of mold and mildew growing in there. It won't run if the battery voltage is below 12, so it wouldn't drain a weak battery.
Anyone have any experience with this?
I'm a new member trying out the town hall so bear with me if I do it wrong. Thanks. I repair light damage rebuildables every now and then and I'm currently working on a 2000 Bonneville SSEI. It was hit in the left front. Mostly fender, control arm, left drive axle damage. The axle was yanked out of the transmission. Didn't appear to hurt the transmission but now that I have all the cosmetic damage fixed, I've discovered that the transmission doesn't shift out of 1st until about 35 miles an hour. After that it seems to work fine. Also the "check engine light" is on and the tire pressure indicator on dash says check my tires. My concern is the transmission. I will be bringing it to a very good tranny place but was wondered if anybody has ever had experience with this kind of symptom. I've checked for broken wires, connectors, and any other visable signs of damage but everything looks in order. Any advise???
Thanks in Advance