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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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    jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    After I back out of the driveway and start forward I also feel a vibration through the gas pedal that seems like the "grinding" you describe. Seems to happen quite often.
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    spiderman32spiderman32 Member Posts: 13
    that's exactly the sounds I get. I made an appointment with the dealer tomorrow... will let you know how it goes. have u taken your car back for anything?
    I've brought mine back to the dealer before and they were pretty good about taking care of the things I needed. Just an inconvenient to go back and forth all the time.
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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Is probably surface rust on the rotors that formed overnight. Happens a lot this time of the year. The longer it sits, the more rust.

    It should go away after a few stops.
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    desmonsmdesmonsm Member Posts: 48
    has been discussed quite a bit. Most likely it's the ABS self-check that occurs just after startup. It doesn't hurt, however, to take your vehicle to the dealership. They may find that it's something else.
    Good luck with your visits...let us know how it turns out.
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    sox_in_04sox_in_04 Member Posts: 27
    About a week ago, the check engine light on my wife's '99 Accord went on. I brought it to AutoZone and had them check the code, which came back P1487. Something to do with emisions I think. Anyone have a suggestion. I do have the extended warranty, but I'm guessing this won't be covered.
    BTW, the car is running just fine.
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    lelandhendrixlelandhendrix Member Posts: 240
    The vibration you are feeling through the pedal is certainly the abs self test. It occurs on a cold start as you move forward enough for the wheel sensors to register.

    For the starting noise described earlier, why on earth would you wait when you're so close to your warranty ending? I would get to the dealer right away.
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    sox_in_04sox_in_04 Member Posts: 27
    Sorry, my dyslexia kicking in. The code is 1457 not 1487.
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Most likely you have a CVS (canister vent shut) valve that has gone bad. It is part of the emission system and maybe covered by some extended warranties...
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    jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    Thanks for the reply on the ABS self-test. As for the rest of your message, I believe you are addressing post #7219 by 03accordman as I have experienced no other noises on my 04 EX-V6.
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    mintoo369mintoo369 Member Posts: 3
    I was trying to save some money by not letting the dealer work on the timing belt and other stuff related to it so I had a mechanic take over. This guy is quite knowledgeable abot Hondas (hence my confidence). After changing the timing belt and the other belt (that goes with it) my car has started to vibrate. He cannot tell the difference because he never drove the car before. But the vibration is like a low frequency drone that shakes me up inside. What could he have done or not done to make this happen.
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    mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    That is one item I would only let a dealer do. I have a friend who did exactly as you did and had to take it to the dealer to fix. His mechanic just didn't do everything right. An expensive lesson nonetheless. If I were you, I'd bite the bullet and take it to the dealer ASAP, no telling what might get damaged the longer you wait.
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    sox_in_04sox_in_04 Member Posts: 27
    I plan on taking it in soon, but would it be correct to assume not much damage can be done driving the vehicle for the time being?
    I know you can't be certain, but it seems the code does not pertain to components likely to be damaged by continued driving.
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    mintoo369mintoo369 Member Posts: 3
    As you recommend I shall do and not mess with it too much. The mechanic is competent but the dealer has lot more trained personnel as well as sophisticated gadgets to work. Thanks pnce again.
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    bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    Do a web search on "Honda Accord CEL light". About the fourth site it lists has a huge and very informative discussion about the CEL light.

    Our 1999 Accord has 70K miles, and the light recently went on. I talked to a local mechanic and the dealer about it, and they both said it is most likely a problem to do with the evap canister. They both charge about $80 to read the code and check the car over.

    I checked the plugs, and they looked good. Then I put a piece of black tape over the CEL light so it would not distract us when we drive. Yeah, I like to live dangerously.

    Since then the light went off by itself. So what? The car drives great. If the problem is serious, eventually the car will not run properly, and we will get it fixed. In the meantime, I have more important things to work on, like my putting stroke.
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    spiderman32spiderman32 Member Posts: 13
    jmaxe- i toook my car to the dealer and I wasn't able to replicate the problem to them so they said to bring it back. I did have them look at a faulty trunk latch and the whistling noise at freeway speed. They ordered me a trunk latch and a new transmission since they said that is where the noise coming from and they can't find where inside. Is it a good thing that they have to replace a new transmission to have to solve this problem???
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    snarkssnarks Member Posts: 207
    If you want to forgo the $80 for check go to Autozone and have the code read. Leaving the light on can lead to expensive damage to the emmissions system. Case in point, my girlfriend ignored her intermittent light for two years. Finally the car started stalling after highway speeds. The damage $1500 for cat converter and two O2 sensors. Fortunately the emmisions warranty was extended to 150,000 miles on her car so it was covered.
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    If the light ever started blinking at you is the only time you would have to worry as this is an indication of catalytic converter damage which could leed to a break down..Once the light is set and on steady the ECU goes into a back up set value mode and is safe to drive until you can get it looked at...

    mintoo369
     He either didnt get the motor mount back correctly or he got the balancer belt off a tooth or two.
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    tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    I may be a moron but is there a drain plug on the 2003 Accord manual transmissions? I found the hard to get to fill hole but can't find a drain plug anywhere. Can anyone turn the light on for me? Kind of sux if I can't even do a simple task like changing my own transmission fluid. Hopefully I am just missing something...
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    lenny20lenny20 Member Posts: 10
    Keung and others: EGR kit was supplied, as, apparently, indicated by a "shop bulletin." There was a code; what, I don't know. There was "carbon buildup," according to dealer. Jets were cleaned, at least I was charged for same. Car stalled during state inspection; I was told that this was the fault of a "residue" carbon buildup and would go away. (Search back to a month within Xmas postings, to see somewhat similar complaints.)Stalling problem persists in the pattern you describe. When I can I will bring car back to dealer for their third attempt. Initially, by the way, the car was much more spirited after jets cleaning (of course).
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    from where the fill plug is come down and towards the center and you should see a round on the outside and square insert for where you will put your 3/8 ratchet to remove..
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    imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,169
    post on the Pilot discussion about using premium fuel in the Honda Pilot.
    Carbon buildup...

    weezy1 "Honda Pilot Owners: Problems & Solutions" Mar 17, 2004 10:47pm

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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    mintoo369mintoo369 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the possible explaination leading to the vibration problem. The mecahnic took the car back in to fix the problem. However, it still vibrates. He confessed that the balancing tooth was off but the problem remains, although slightly diminished. So one does have to remove the motor mount to get to the timing belt which I did not know. Now my car is leaking oil. This has all happened in the last one hour after receiving the car from his garage. I am totally and extremely disappointed.
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    jaxaccordownerjaxaccordowner Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Accord EX with 135,000 miles that I've owned since it was new. As of lately, when I put on the brakes (and not always. It seems to only do it when the car is warm), they work but the pedal continues to go down right to the floor. The brakes are still working during this but it definitely shouldn't be doing this. I've taken it to a local dealer. It, of course, didn't do it when they had it. They've checked everything and nothing is wrong. But something is definitely wrong. Anyone have this same problem and come up with a solution?
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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    You have a bad master cylinder. I'm surprised they couldn't get it to bleed down too.
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    whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    I concur,, sounds like master cylinder to me too.
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    jaxaccordownerjaxaccordowner Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your replies. They checked the master cylinder and they tell me that it's fine. Nothing is leaking, fluid is full, plunger is fine. Can it be anything else?
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    jaucoinjaucoin Member Posts: 9
    Hi. Apologies if this has been asked and responded to before (I searched the site and didn't think I saw something similar):

    I have a 1997 Honda Accord with 100,000 miles on it. Recently (about 3 months ago) I noticed the following: when I go up a small incline while going at slow speeds (5-15 MPH, for example, while accelerating after stopping at a light), there is a whining sound, and it seems like the car is not getting in gear properly. Once I get up the incline and increase speed, I can feel the car shift into gear and the whining noise stops.

    This doesn't happen all the time, i.e., it's an intermittent thing. But it is definitely a change - I would have noticed it before.

    I'm wary that there may be a possible transmission problem. Has anyone else had this? If so, what was the cause, and the fix?

    FYI, I have had regular maintenance performed by the dealer (including the 90,000 major maintenance about 10,000 miles ago).
     
    Thanks in advance for your help.
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    bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    Sorry, but it does sound like a transmission failure is in work. Plan on about speeding $2,500 to $3,000 for the repair, if it is indeed bad. Have a repair shop you truss give you their opinion. If you plan on keeping the car at least 5 years, I would take it somewhere like AMMCO, which will sell you a lifetime warranty. Good luck and keep us posted!
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    auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I think it is time to find someone a little better to look at your car. The balancer, if set the first time incorrectly, is probably still wrong if vibration is still there and your sure it is not you looking too hard at this point. There is a specific procedure to set it and if followed cannot be messed up to easily, so my guess is they dont really know the set point..The mount on the left side does have to come off on a 4 cyclynder and could be damaged on install or the front mount goes bad on its own over time..

    jaxaccordowner
     My guess is a stuck or frozen caliper pin. I see it missed diagnosed alot. Try to remove the pins from the caliper or have someone take them out to check them..
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    per2per2 Member Posts: 9
    The dealer put silicone on the weatherstrip after I complained about door rattle. It didn't solve the problem. What's more, it is very annoying: occasionally, the silicone makes my cloth or hand dirty, if I am not careful enough and touch it when getting in and out of the car. I spent one afternoon trying to clean it with soap water, but no use at all. I asked the dealer to replace the weatherstrip, they refused, because "nothing wrong". Anybody has any advice?
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    ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    While there are other options on the choice of weatherstrip protector, it is a pretty good "middle" option. If you plan to keep the car for any length of time, you might want to see to it that at some interval you actually wash the weather stripping and recoat it with the lubricant of your choice. If if soap and water do not do the trick in removal, I know for a fact that products like simple green will lift it right off.
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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    If you take it to " a major transmission chain" they WILL sell you a transmission rebuild which may or not be needed!

    Have a dealer or a trusted independent with a good reputation for honesty take it out for a drive.
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    jaucoinjaucoin Member Posts: 9
    Thanks, bd21 and isellhondas. I made an appointment for next week (3/30) with my dealer for the 97,500 maintenance, and they will do a test drive with me to try to diagnose the problem. Unfortunately, like I said, it's intermittent, and I'm not confident that I'll be able to reproduce it fore them.

    If I discover anything I'll post it.
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    jumpnjoejumpnjoe Member Posts: 34
    I love my new EX v6 and driving with the moonroof open. Does anyone have the moonroof visor? Does it cut the wind noise significantly. I don't like how it looks, but if it makes a big diffefence, I'll get it.

    Thanks for your feedback.
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    03honda03honda Member Posts: 96
    We have the visor on our '03 ex-l and found it to cut down on the wind noise noticeably, especially with the roof fully open while driving high speeds. The looks of it are growing on me, it is sort of nice since not EVERY accord has one!
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    jumpnjoejumpnjoe Member Posts: 34
    Thanks for the quick feedback. The highway is what I was worried about. The wind wasn't bad around town, but on the highway it was a little annoying while I was alone, never mind trying to have a conversation.
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    cut_shotcut_shot Member Posts: 11
    Hey, I had my battery spewed off some acid next the battery and it started to rust a little. I used some backing soda to neutralize the acid. IS this something I should just sand it down smooth and spray on some of the rust paint (i.e. reducing agent) or should I just take it in to have the body shop do it, so hopefully I wouldn't have to worry about it later. Approx. how much would it cost? 300-400 dollars?
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    blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    cut_shot:

    If you are talking about the battery tray area under the hood, don't worry about it. Nobody is going to look there. A quick temporary fix, to avoid further rusting, would be to rub some plain old grease, or vasaline petroleum jelly, on any problem areas. That will keep the air out and give you time to later use a wire brush and emery cloth, then a bit of black spray paint (Rustoleum or similar). You don't need a body shop if it's just cosmetic and out of sight.
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    azguyazguy Member Posts: 23
    I say there is too much wind noise for driver and passenger sides. Dealer did some foam installation < from a service bulletin, they said >and says all is well. It's better, but still too loud for an Accord, I think. They say it's from the side mirrors and "normal"..any ideas? zguy@theriver.com
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    inspectoringinspectoring Member Posts: 102
    I just got a brand new 2003 accord from a dealer (EX) and I just drove it for 300 miles, filling up the tank twice.

    I am amazed - the brand new accord is giving me 21 mpg on a local highway.....do I have anything to worrk about?

    thank you guys in advance...
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    lelandhendrixlelandhendrix Member Posts: 240
    You shouldn't worry at all. Your gas mileage will increase dramatically over the next 10,000 miles. I'm at 14K now and my mileage seems to have leveled off and is right in line with the estimates.
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    bshelbshel Member Posts: 232
    I have the visor on my accord and my CR-V. It does cut down on wind noise considerably in both vehicles. I don't want to have to blast my stereo to hear it.

    I like the way it looks. Only drawback for me is cleaning - a drive-thru wash place doesn't get it clean.
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    bd21bd21 Member Posts: 437
    Maybe and then again maybe not. I have a 2001 Accord and a 2004 Civic. I have tracked every tank of gas and the gas mileage has stayed the same since the first tank of fuel, which was a mile or two within the EPA ratings for both city and highway.
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    inspectoringinspectoring Member Posts: 102
    any suggestions - should I just sit it out or take it to the dealer?
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    gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    He'll probably tell you to sit it out.
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    lelandhendrixlelandhendrix Member Posts: 240
    I'm referring to the experiences of a many people, both in this forum and otherwise. It is very common that gas mileage improves after the vehicle is fully broken in.

    As always--if in doubt, ask your service department.
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    sodak2sodak2 Member Posts: 4
    I am responding to message #2752 "2003 and 2004 Accord Owners Unite!!!" by randyfrisch. I test drove an 2004 Accord LX, I4. I took it on the hwy. at speeds from 55mph to 70mph. at about 65mph I could feel a vibration in the steering wheel. When I accel. or decel. it would go away. However, it was easy to make it come back. The vibration occured in the 60mph to 70mph range and usually when the speed was held at a constant rate. unfortunately, when I returned the car I did not tell the sales rep. I did not purchase the car either. It could have been a tire issue and/or steering issue. I do not know. however, it was strange to feel this vibration in a NEW car. In addition, I have owned Honda's for 20 years. None of them have acted this why except with worn tires or worn brakes/rotors. This particular 04 Accord had neither. GOOD LUCK.
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    c182skylanec182skylane Member Posts: 64
    the wheels were probably not balanced correctly - something the dealer could easily remedy.
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    steve1steve1 Member Posts: 8
    It's not unheard of for new cars to be out of alignment or have tires that are not balanced. My Honda dealer told me that sometimes it can happen from the way they're chained down to the car carrier when they're being transported to the dealer. Or they can sometimes have a quality control screw-up at the factory and miss the alignment/balancing altogether.

    If you buy a car that has such an issue, I'm sure the dealer would be happy to address it for you.
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    richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    I drive little but did take one recent road trip and calculated gas mileage carefully.

    On the highway (I-5 from San Francisco to Palm Springs in December) my '04 EX-L 4 cyl AT sedan averaged 33.2 MPG.

    Driving around the area of Palm Springs/Rancho Mirage--typical suburban driving with some traffic and slow driving around retail shopping areas, Target, Home Depot parking lots, etc.--the car averaged 22.6 MPG.

    At the time, the car had under 2000 on it, so not broken in yet. I think that's very good for a 3200 pound car with plenty of power.

    At the gas pump it's an economy car and on the road it's a luxury car.......Richard
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