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Comments
The part just snaps on. There is a screw (can't remember if it is a hex or not) that olds the sun visor in place. After removing the visor you sould easily be able to replace toe part.
Good Luck
A good driver who doesn't slip the clutch--engages it quickly and fully at low RPMs--can get well over 100,000 miles on the original clutch. An ignorant driver who holds the car on hills by partly engaging the clutch pedal and/or uses the clutch pedal as a foot rest (causing slippage) will need an new clutch in just a few thousand miles.
It would be helpful if you could watch the current owner drive the car to see how he/she takes care to refrain from slipping it too much.
Test it for slipping by tightly applying the emergency brake and engaging the clutch while reving the engine a bit. The car should stall. This test isn't good for the car, but at least you'll know if the clutch is slipping.....Richard
A clutch can easily last the life of the car but a sloppy driver in San Francisco could probably ruin a clutch in 40,000 miles.
I wouldn't worry about this. Honda clutches are pretty tough.
I know...I'm weird.
My 03 Accord does not turn it off automatically either.
Luv this car and would like to keep it.
Any ideas???????
Any advice? The car just hit 100,000 miles. It is in very good shape (no major problems, just routine maintenance). I would just as soon keep it than buy a new one. HOWEVER, I don't know what else is in store for me right around the corner.
Have other people had the transmission go on them at 100,000 miles? Is this "normal"?
What other kind of stuff (besides normal maintenance) can I expect to encounter soon (whithin the next 25,000 miles)?
Thanks.
The local dealer runs a $495 30K mile service, and I am not sure whether its worth having it done. i just read the dealer's doc for the 30k mile serivce, and they change tranny fluid, fuel filter, spark plugs etc in this service. In the manual, Honda says the tranny fluid does not need to be changed before 60k, the plugs are good for 100k miles etc. What should I follow?
I got 280K+ miles out of my Civic before selling itby following those recommendations, and had flawless service.
If you are uncomfortable with the dealer's price and interval, call around with what you need done and you'll likely find a better deal. I prefer my dealer but I use Honda's recommendations, not the dealers.
I find it offensive that at most dealers, they have a huge display of the "Intellichoice" car recommendations, which ranks the Accord as a best pick. That recommendation is based on total cost of ownership, with numbers posted right there on the board. I am INCENSED when the service department makes every effort to ensure your cost of ownership is at least double that.
You probably could reach 100K, but Honda's legendary long life would be unattainable with what is specified currently IMHO.
On the other hand, I doubt the dealer would replace your platinum plugs and fuel filter @30K. He might inspect them.
A fan thermostat is designed to turn on the elecric engine cooling fan when a certain temperature is reached, so it's doing what it's supposed to do if the temperature rises enough after the engine is turned off.
There could be a problem if the fan in a '96 Accord is supposed to be disabled when the ignition is off--a Honda mechanic should be able to answer that question....Richard
My 89 Accord does that too.
I have a 2003 Accord EX V6 (auto). Overall a very nice car. However, at high rpms, there is a nosiy rattle fron the right underside of the car.
This occurs is I am accelerating fast, ex. on the freeway. Once I hit about 5800-6200 RPM, the rattle/vibration starts, then the transmissions shifts, the rpms drop, and sound disappears.
It is definitely outside, on the right underside of the car.
I have duplicated this at the dealer, and they say it's normal. I disagree. Sounds like the rattle my catalytic coverter cover used to make on a car I used to have.
They also said "I should not drive at high rpms or I will damage the engine". I find this odd; I never yellow or redline it, and it's an rpm that is within the shift range. If it was dangerous, the shift point would be lower, right?
Anyway, any help would be appreciated. I think it's not correct, and would like to get it fixed.
I took this car into Ken Dixon Honda in Waldorf, MD and asked the service manager to get it fixed. He took it for 30 minutes and came back and said it was all set, because the car was under warranty. I expected him to take car of it so it will never come back (AKA sand down the rust, prime it, paint it, and maybe clearcoat it). I can understand the difficulty in getting to the rust (you can barely use sandpaper to get to it).
I noticed about two weeks ago that the rust is starting to come back, and discovered that the service manager just touched up and painted over the rust. With rust, you have to get rid of it ALL, or else it will come back.
I called the dealer where I bought the car (College Park Honda), and their service manager told me that they could not touch the car because Ken Dixon Honda already touched it. Is this true?
Finally, I went to a body repair shop to get an estimate on what it would cost to repair the rust, and they said it would cost $972.64. I guess they have to unweld the inside and outside panels of the door, take off all the plastic stuff (door handles etc), find the rust (or where it's coming from), sand it down, prime it, paint it, clear coat it, and put everything back together.
I went back to Ken Dixon Honda and told them the story (I was mad but not rude) and told them to fix it right. I showed them the estimate, and I guess the district service manager in the DC area has to approve the cost. He will approve it/disapprove it on April 6th when he comes down to Ken Dixon Honda from Baltimore.
My question is: Instead of fixing the door (and possibly screwing up the paintjob so it might not match the rest of the car), couldn't I just get an entirely new door? An entire door can't possibly cost as much as the repair. The exterior color of the car is Graphite Grey.
Any comments would be helpful.
Even if you got a new door, you still would have to get it painted to match the rest of the vehicle. Your situation is unique, I have not heard or read of an issue like this. I would be very upset also. The quality of almost all car manuf. have fallen, everyone is looking to cut cost. If the dealer can't get it right, I would take the door apart and purchase a rust inhibitor, which can be applied in the in-side of the door which seals the rust from moisture and it should stop the spreading. Also, I remember my mechanic telling me that it's a good idea before the winter season to spray oil into the doors. By doing this where the water would gather during the winter months, the oil will not allow the water, salt to attack the metal parts. Good luck, I hope the job is done right.
From my understanding, the doors/body parts come primed only. Then the dealer/body shop paints the door/body parts at their shop. It would be very difficult to prevent damages to large body parts that are to be shipped already painted and not have them be destroyed by the shipper. I know that you can however order the trunk spoiler already painted from HONDA. The larger body parts I doubt that, but then again nothing surprises me.
I'm new to here, and looking for some help.
Just picked up a new 2004 4 cylinder Accord sedan a few days ago, and have put only 100 km on it.
When the car goes over bumps, potholes, joints, ..., seems like somewhere around the glove box or passenger side air bag is always making a noise. Now the centre console has joined the "orchestra" !!
Has anyone identified any sources of these noises and know some DIY quick fixes?
I went thru some of the older messages and knew that many 03 and 04 accords are having all these rattling and strange noises problems.
I knew dealers won't help much as I had a 97 Civic and a 00 Camry before. Dealers attempted a few times to fix these strange noises with no luck.
Are we simply going to live with it and trade it in after 3-4 years for a hopefully no rattle Accord?
I'm so tired of these noises, always from the passenger side. This happens so early this time, less than 100 km or 60 miles.
TTB
Door locks still work and trunk opens, however, no visual or audible feedback from the lights and horn.
Has anybody else seen this?
Any ideas?
In my '03 there are at least three areas to look at for fuses/breakers.
But I did a search on google groups and someone reported that the same rattling problem turned out to be the AC system pollen filter, which is apparently located somewhere behind the glove compartment or passenger side airbag.
Also, in the September 2003 long-term test of the 2003 Accord here on Edmunds, all the drivers apparently complained of a rattling noise from the windows, which I have also experienced on the front passenger side.
I still have spark knock!
It turned out not to be a transmission problem. I had a small leak in the A-pipe of the exhaust, which caused the car to make a strange noise, particularly when accelerating up a hill after a stop or near-standing stop (e.g., encountering a hill after stopping at a traffic light). The transmission seemed to whine to me also, but it looks like it was probably just dropping into low gear for the hill.
So it looks like I dodged the bullet this time.
I'm thinking normal means, "yea we know and we can't fix it, so consider it a product feature"
What an annoying problem though. Any sage advice? (Honda Customer Svc pushed it back onto the dealer)
It's a big 4 and the engine was turned 180 degrees, so I'm thinking Honda didn't have enough development time for a smoother engine. Historically, idle smoothness hasn't been a Honda trait in their 4s but I'm sure they can engineer roughness out if they had the will and time to do so.
Some may notice that the effect is lessened just as they let off of the brakes before stepping on the accelerator. As the engine speed increases, the vibration decreases. That's why dealers sometimes bump up the idle speed.
***Looking for assistance in getting the section of the dash removed to get to the control switch. Could anyone let me know the best way for that part of the dash removal.
Appreciate your inputs.....oh, the chilton's book didn't mention anything on dash removal.
Honda wants $825. for this and to replace the pipe & hose suction under the hood.