You wrote: "is it worth paying an extra $5-$7k for AWD? i live in snow country and totaled my last car in snow. Do passats do well in the snow?"
I didn't realize that the 4motion version was that much more expensive. When you say you live in "snow country," it would probably help if you were more specific. You get a little snow all the time, you get deep snow occasionally, or you get deep snow all the time?
Much has been written about the advantages that dedicated snow tires bring to the Passat in both FWD and 4 motion. Depending on your answer to the above and if that price spread is accurate, then I'd give serious thought to FWD with 4 high quality snow tires. If it's deep snow all the time for you and the roads aren't well treated, then 4motion with 4 snow tires would be my choice. People report they have awesome traction and regularly outperform SUV's on all-season tires.
In southwestern PA, we get on average 40" snow a year and lots of hills. But the snow usually comes as an inch now, couple inches a few days later. We seldom get really deep snow all at one time. I survive quite nicely on all seasons with FWD - I've only had the ASR activate once, and the ABS two or three times this winter. But where I live the roads are plowed and salted heavily. And I have a job that allows me to wait on the plow and salt trucks...
I live in Boston metro area (snow city ?) and have 4Motion but I don't think it was necessary. In fact, we live on a small hill and my wife drives a FWD van which worked just fine. If anything, my car is consuming more gas and polluting the environment for 99.999% of time.
The AWD portion of the VW and Audi familiy of cars at full retail represents no more than $2,000, unless something has changed in the very recent past.
AWD is not just for breakfast any more, no wait, that's orange juice. AWD is not just for winter or low traction situations, it improves the performance, safety and fun of a Passat or any car that is so equipped.
There are many debates about the efficacy of AWD vs RWD (and even vs FWD). It seems that the popular opinion is that for perfomance minded folks, RWD or AWD is a must (hence the rush of new cars that are either RWD or AWD).
With respect to snow, if that is all you are concerned with in considering an AWD vs FWD Passat, I would agree that 4 wheels mounted with snow tires on a FWD version would be fine to pass through the snow days. When there is deep snow, heavy snow, persistent snow, well AWD will offer or CAN offer greater motive certainty. If you live where snow is moderate, I contend you can do just fine with AWD with High Performance All Season Rubber, too. Then you can keep the A/S tires on year round.
Although this is not a "perfectly true and accurate" statement, the spirit of it is -- you should consider AWD for the benefits it brings, minor on that list of benefits would be "snow traction." Major on that list would be performance regardless of the coefficient of friction, safety and the fun-factor. The reason, so it is written, that so many folks buy SUV's is NOT to go off road, it is to acquire AWD or 4WD for the daily drive whatever that may be. With AWD in a Passat you simply add all the goodness of AWD to an already competent German sporting sedan -- which, in my estimation, make the whole thing more attractive year round.
Now where that $5 to $7K number ever came from is, to me, still a mystery. Note even on the Cadillac SRX that AWD costs less than $2000 as a standalone option.
I have an 02 1.8T automatic passat. I have driven it through four winters now in upstate New york. I make weekend trips 3x monthly up there. I put Nokian all weather , snow rated tires,. The drive is nice and I have not gotten stuck once. The traction control complemented with both the weight distribution and front drive has given me a sure footed safer than average ride in my opinion. I also enjoy the 30-32 mpg. I am not sure that the 4 motion is needed.
I would second birdboy. My 03 1.8T automatic Passat, front-wheel drive only, has been through two Iowa winters with the OEM Michelin Energy tires - and I drive about 20K miles a year - and has never skidded or lost traction in the snow. The ESP and traction control have made a difference, and so has the basic good design of the car. I'm not saying AWD wouldn't be even better - I wouldn't know - but the FWD version has done well for me so far.
My 4motion for my 05 Passat GLX Wagon lists $1700.00 on the sticker, not sure where you got your #'s. I live in sunny SoCal (sometimes wet) and wanted the 4mo more for stability,safety and those times that I drive I-40 to Flagstaff in the winter, I here this system(Audi) works well when it comes to ICE,RAIN and SNOW.By the way, this car handles extremly well in RAIN and dry pavement.Even though gas has gone up since I purchased (1month) I still just want to drive since it is such a pleasure to sit behind the wheel and GO!
My '05 Passat TDi with ESP worked great this past winter in Central NH (100" of snow +/-, of every type imaginable). The ESP is the key to me, although I can't really comment on the AWD since I don't have it. It does seem to me that it would be unused 90% of the time (and therefore costly to buy and operate due to increased fuel use).
Read up on ESP (now standard on Passats). It provides "computer smarts" that increase safety and handling.
My sentiments almost exactly -- IF the reason to consider AWD is "just snow" the use of the electronics, FWD and snow tires (4) should get you through virtually all the time.
Try a long series of identical test drives with the FWD and the AWD version -- tackle some twisties and try some acceleration at the apex of some sharp corners and see if you can differentiate between the two variants. If you can or can't, you will have made progress in making your choice.
AWD is often demonstrated and/or sold first as a low traction tool -- I suspect this is due to the ease of selling this notion. I have a prediction: AWD will be virtually universal (at least as an option) within a relatively short time period (look how many cars in the past year alone now offer at least one model with AWD).
No one, I assume (I hope), reading this would ever question the need for 4 wheel brakes, even though we all know the front wheels do the vast majority of the stopping of a moving vehicle. The fact that we even debate the value of AWD (beyond "snow") is not surprising and even though I find it, personally, incomprehensible that if AWD is offered (and it is cheap) it would not be an "automatic" choice. Yet, I do understand that it has not yet become "in our minds" as logical and natural as four wheel brakes.
I have had (well my wife and I together) have had 27 Audis, well over 50% of them AWD, the differences are NOT subtle, but may not reveal themselves on casual test drives.
However, therefore, notwithstanding, even an FWD Passat is certainly a fine driving automobile that when shod with 4 winter tires will successfully and safely go in the snow. If that is your overriding concern perhaps the extra $1700 for AWD would not be a worthwhile choice -- drive it like YOU live.
I agree with markcincinnati that handling in better in AWD then FWD. Besides, AWD is _always_ better in snow, rain or dry surface then FWD. At the same time, FWD will generally give better 0-60 and _always_ give better fuel economy. I don't have FWD experience for the same make/model and I don't think performance difference would be significant. (Though I do enjoy acceleration at the apex on all but the jug-handler type ramps!)
If we all switch to AWD, OIL price will go up by 5% but may also bring down accident rate.
we are trying to change the oil in our 2001 passat. the tranmission fluid was accidently let out instead of the oil....we are having a hard time finding where to put the new transmission fluid. can someone help us find where to find?
What a bummer. I treked to the New York Auto show today . I battled monsoon rains, winds, and mega crowds to get a peek at the new passat. . It was not there. they had 4 jettas and the all the other vw models but no new passat. when I questioned the rep as to why not, she replied that it was because they could not confirm the pricing. I find that hard to believe as we all know they are pushing for upper 20's to 30,000. In addition there were other companies with models that just plainly said pricing not available.I hope that vw will consider keeping the pricing as it is now considering they must work harder to keep and attract customers who were hurt by and still are hurt by the coils, sludge, engine burnout and a host of other incidents., as much as I love my 02 pasat , now that the coil nightmare is behind I would like to get a new passat, however no way will I spend even $28,000 on the car.
You wrote: we are trying to change the oil in our 2001 passat. the tranmission fluid was accidently let out instead of the oil....we are having a hard time finding where to put the new transmission fluid. can someone help us find where to find?
Not an uncommon mistake.
The transmission is a sealed unit. There is no dipstick under the hood.
According to the Bentley manual, the unit needs to be filled from underneath using VW specified AT fluid. My recollection is that the transmission needs to reach a certain temperature in order to be properly filled.
Quite a few people just get towed to the dealer for the ATF refill.
I know you don't want to hear this -- have this done at the dealership. I don't mean to sound like an alarmist, but, you will live to regret NOT doing it this way, IMHO. Sorry.
Too much risk, too much money at stake for this to be done away from the dealership.
And, if you are having this done at a Transmission Shop and they don't know how to do this, what does that tell you? There are enough of these cars on the road that any transmission shop that can't change the fluid should be suspect.
And, and, and, who let the wrong oil out in the first place (rhetorical question)? Passats as I hope y'all know are "breathtakingly expensive" to repair out of warranty. If this car is out of warranty and you are taking it to a non VW/Audi repair place (Fred's Corner Tire Store, for instance) -- you must have more money than most folks.
I remember once considering changing my anti-freeze in my German car -- "now where's the petcock?" I said to myself. Where's the. . .oh fughetaboudit -- "dealer!"
I would like to get a new passat, however no way will I spend even $28,000 on the car.
Unfortunately with Jettas reaching the $26K mark, it is unlikely you will find anything other than a very base '06 Passat around the $28K mark. I think they'll more likely be in the $32-36K range, but that is just mere specualtion going off of the '05 New Jetta pricing model. I just purchased an '05 Passat GLS TDI for $26,200 + $500 VW Loyalty, but don't think that the new Passat TDIs (when they are released) will be anywhere near that pricing. In fact, when I priced an '05 new Jetta TDI just like my '04 Jetta GLS TDI, the MSRP was $26,600. I paid almost $7K less for my '04 TDI. I'm hoping that VW gets their pricing model back in line with their target audience. Even with the new bells and whistles and larger body, the new Jetta is not worth $7K more than I paid for my '04.
Mark, I've read a lot of threads on different forums where an owner gets a hankering to do their own oil changes to either save a few bucks or to bond with their car, or whatever. They get underneath and just get confused and, oooops, there goes the wrong fluid. I think they don't expect the oil plug to be aimed sideways or to be so close to the front. Manure happens....
VW appears to be bent on moving upscale, up market, up price. They need to increase profit margins. A $38,000 Passat will probably have a willing audience and the margin is better for the company.
Currently they lose on every sale (and make it up in volume?!?) and apparently receive a subsidy of VW AG from the successes of Audi AG. This needs to cease. There are VW's that are lurking under most folks radar that can play just fine with Audis and BMW's for example. One that comes to mind was the R32 -- I don't think I ever saw one of them more than a little of $30K. I drove both the Audi TT and the R32 with the 3.2 engine -- the R32 seemed like much more car to me and it was over $10,000 less -- making it a relative bargain.
Before I go off the deep end, it seems to me that VW cannot afford to build Corollas, despite the fact that the comparison to the Corolla has been made recently concerning the new Jetta.
...And don't forget to factor in the steep decline in the value of the dollar versus the Euro. It's going to make all European assembled cars more expensive.
I am here to advise EVERYONE to STAY AWAY from purchase of a Passat. It is a highly expensive pile of junk!!!
I am so angry that I am ready to drive my '99 Passat thru a dealership window. It has bled me dry in the 3 years I have had it (bought it from a dealer w/ 32,000miles on it) in SPITE of how carefully and dutifully I have taken care of it. The problems started the second year of ownership and I now have 92,000 miles on it.
I am the only driver. I don't drive it in rush hour traffic (I live in a sparsley populated area and am close to work.) Over half the miles are freeway drives on the weekend.
And STILL it is constantly breaking down----computer resets (4x in 3 yrs.)or part replacements. For instance, in the last 12 months ALONE I have had these expensive repairs:
1.Control Arms (no, VW has not remimbursed me for this repair I had done b-4 the recall) 2.Thermostat 3. Oil Leak 4. Temperature Sensor 5.Ignition Module
There must be others out there w/ just as lousy an experience.....and I even owned 2 different air-cooled VW vans from the 70's which ran FAR BETTER than this in spite of going 120,000 miles in each one!!!!!
I can't afford to NOT repair it since I can't sell it this way but I can't afford another car either as my down payment has been spent on repairs. OOOOOOO, I am so angry!
Another happy "beta" tester - which happens to drivers who purchase vehicles in the first couple of years of production. This is what happens when people insist on being the "first kid on the block" to have the "latest and greatest" - this applies to VWs, Hondas, Toyotas, lawn tractors, etc...
Which is why I buy cars which are near or at the end of their production cycle (most of the bugs are usually worked out by then)...
I think he said he purchased it used with 40K on it or so so I would imagine that the problems should have already been addressed under warranty guess not.
I read a message the other day about someone (in Florida I think) that refurbs ABS Modules for the Passat. A phone number was given in the message. I can't find it now - can anyone point me to the message #?
Hi, I have a 2000 V6 Passat and I've been having a recurring problem that the dealership cannot diagnose. Upon accelerating, the car often gets very "jerky" -- like it's shifting too early -- and the EPC light and the emissions workshop light come on. It doesn't feel safe, but, again, the dealership has no idea how to fix. Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks in advance for any help.
Hi there from Tennessee, I am having quite a bit of trouble with my 1995 passat. Somehow water is leaking into my car and my front and back passenger floorboards are totally soaked! My engine light comes on and off too. If you would tell me what you were told about these problems and how they were fixed. I am not getting the ansers that I need. Thank you for any information. :confuse: :mad:
When getting my oil changed yesterday the dealer said there was a recall to reprogram the auto transmission module due to rough shifting (which my car didn't have). After driving home I noticed it shifts more seamlessly, and when in tip mode, shifts noticeably faster with no lag. Check it out...nice upgrade.
I bought my Passat brand new 1.5 year ago and was issued only 1 license plate by the CA DMV. At that time I didn't think too much of it because a friend of mine also got only 1 license plate for his Passat that was 4 years older than mine. I just thought it's something the DMV does for Passat. Then this morning I got a parking ticket for meter violation in San Francisco, AND a ticket for not displaying front license plate. When did it become the law that you have to display front license plate? And why did I not get 2 license plate for my Passat?
I have a 2000 Passat v6 wagon that will not let me put more than 1/4 tank of gas in without blowing it back at me. I have to pull out the nozzle and let air escape and keep doing this every 3 seconds until I have enough gas in it or am too sick of standing there and give up ! My VW mechanic replaced a valve, no difference, and is still deciding what to look for next. Any ideas??? Now it's starting to have trouble starting up too. OTHERWISE, I do love the zippy little thing. HELP !
The Ca DMV is suppose to send 2 plates. They are very thin and wedged inside of each other when shipped, so you have to be careful to peel them apart. More than a few people I know have been fooled.
I had this problem with a 1999 Audi A6 and a 2000 A6. There was, as I recall, a recall (no pun). It was fixed on both cars. Seems to me that a 2000 Passat may share some of the same issues.
To all, Can someone tell me what kind of oil, and how often I should change it in the 2004 Passat 1.8 Turbo, because my manual states, every 5K , and I can use 5W30, but what I'm reading within these forums does not coincide with my owners manual. Thanks to all in advance. Thanks Again NIKI1
If you do not use a VW 502.00 spec motor oil in your Passat, VW will have more than sufficient justification NOT to honor any warranty oil-related engine failure due to sludge.
There are only three 5w-30 oils you can use - all synthetic. As a matter of fact, every oil listed on the VW 502.00 spec is synthetic. Here's the list from VW:
Engine oils with Volkswagen Oil Standard VW 502.00 approval:
Available at authorized Volkswagen dealers Volkswagen Part No. ZVW 352 540S 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Chevron Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40
Elf Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
Kendall Kendall GT-1 Full synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Mobil Mobil 1 0W-40
Motul Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker state Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker state Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Pennzoil-Quaker state Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker state Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Seventysix lubricants 76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40
Total Total Quartz 9000 5W-40
Valvoline Valvoline Synpower 5W-30
Valvoline Valvoline Synpower 5W-40
It has always been Volkswagen’s policy to continuously improve its products. Volkswagen, therefore, reserves the right to make changes in design and specifications, and tomake additions or improvements to its productswithout incurring any obligation to install themon products previouslymanufactured.Text and specifications in this Supplement are based on information and knowledge available at the time of printing. All rights are reserved.May not be reproduced or translated in whole or in part without the written consent of Volkswagen of America, Inc. Specifications are subject to change without notice. If you are not sure which oil to use, consult with your authorized Volkswagen Service Advisor. 2004 Volkswagen of America, Inc. Printed in USA, July 2004 241.VW.APPROVED. OILS.CHART.FOR1.8LTURBO.94
So use any oil other than VW 502.00 spec at your own risk.
BTW: Change your oil every 5000 miles (not one mile over). Not doing so also voids your warranty.
I have yet to find a sales person who is really up on the technical issues (unless they are an enthusiast). Any service department worth their salt (like the VW dealer I go to) should have this information (technical service bulletin) on display. If they don't, then I would bring this issue to their attention. If they don't resolve this to your satisfaction, I would change dealerships.
The network of VW dealerships are a hit or miss. Some are good, some are average, and others are downright lousy.
Do you have a sunroof? I am having some problems with water coming in through my sunroof. It comes down the lines and puddles in the passenger rear of my car. The other possibility, although this was not my problem, is that the front drains may be clogged. A mechanic can check this out for you. For the sunroof, you need to go to a body shop.
I have an opportunity to purchase a 2000 passat, glx V6. It has 27 000 kms on it but has been sitting for about 2 1/2 years. Does anyone know if there can be any damage caused by sitting for so long?
Maybe not damage, but you could develop some problems. Has it been started at any intervals? ie once a month and driven? Idle?The oil should be changed,any and all seals may develope leaks from "drying out" engine,transmission,brakes,fuel,belts etc. If it has been started has the transmission been cycled? ie ran through the gear sequence. How long has the fuel been sitting in the tank?Has it been in the weather? ie outside all this time? Are the brake discs rusted/corroded? You really should look it over! Again just my .02 klh59
Today I purchased a 96 Passat GLX, 83000 miles, with leather, sunroof and every other option that was available. I am seeking advice on how to keep it in good shape. Do you really need premium gas for the V6 engine? What kooky things should I be on the look out for? This car needs to get me through the next two years of Nursing school - so it needs to be dependable! Oh, and one other question - the key won't come out of the ignition at times. It happened twice today and after starting the car a few times it finally came out. Could it be that the key is old and that I need to get a new one (its the original)? Would WD40 squirted in there be helpful?
So far I love the car! It is sporty and so very fast. I was cruising down the highway and didn't realize I was going 85 (yikes).
It does require alcohol free premium octane gas (at least 91 octane).
The key problem usually is overcome by "rocking" the steering wheel so that it is not putting pressure on the steering column lock -- I doubt that it is a key problem per se.
Use only synthetic oil and always change the oil and filter at the same time.
Make certain all fluids are new (brake fluid, coolant, gear oil, power steering oil, transmission oil, engine oil and what the heck windshield washer fluid, too). This one time expense can save you $100's or more later. Have these fluids changed at the dealer or some company that works on VW's and Audis and other Germans predominantly.
Do not squirt WD40 on anything -- let someone else squirt whatever whereever -- often WD40 will do more harm than good.
Have the brake pads checked (especially the rear ones) -- brake pads are so much less expensive than new rotors.
Check the "drive" belts, hoses and THE BIG ONE: the serpentine belt (if this belt fails, you will spends a 4 figure number to get things put back together). Unless you know when the serpentine (sometimes called the timing belt) was last changed, by whom and at the milage, etc., you had better consider this a must do (it will cost a little bit of money -- a 3 figure number -- but this one is the biggie that could cost you a ton if this belt goes south on you.)
Anything that needs lubricating -- and I mean anything -- should be lubed (with the appropriate product).
If the tires and good and the car doesn't pull to one side or the other, drive it until the tires need replacing then have the tires replaced and a 4 wheel alignment performed. Do not underinflate the tires, a couple pounds overinflation is not a problem, tho.
Use a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in your next full tank of gas -- get it from your VW dealer.
Make certain the "seals" have appropriate lubricants (talking abou the window and door and trunk seals).
Wash the car thoroughly and then paste wax it (with the wax that comes from the dealer).
Wipe the seats with a leather cleaner and preservative (dealer has this stuff too), clean the dashboard and coat it with low sheen Armor - all.
All this stuff, and I mean all of it, if done will probably cost about a grand (plus or minus). The dealer will probably charge more than a non dealer and as long as the non dealer uses dealer parts, fluids and stuff -- and the non dealer is German car capable -- you can probably save a buck or two. The serpentine belt, if needed to be replaced, will be the biggie, sorry to say; but, you may not need to replace it.
Thank you so much for your advice. I have an appointment to go to a non-dealer VW shop on Friday and they are going to change the oil and do a general inspection.
Interesting enough... I called around to price how much it would cost to change all the fluids. I called about three non dealer shops and then, for a lark, decided to call one of the big dealers here in Columbus. They told me that the transmission and radiator were maintance free and would never need to be flushed or changed. Huh? And then they told me it would be $60 for an oil change. Yikes.
6 cylinders have a timing chain, the 1.8 turbo a belt. But the serpentine isn't the same as the timing belt, and is much easier and cheaper to change. The timing belt can't easily be inspected by the owner and should be changed around 100k miles, or before, to avoid engine damage if it breaks.
Yes- have a mechanic check the fluids, hoses, belts and cv boots. They all might need replacing by 83k. Don't worry about expensive synthetic oil changes, regular oil or a synth blend will do, otherwise your engine would have been sludged-up by now. Keep an eye on how much oil it burns! If reliability was important, you probably shouldn't have bought a a 96 VW, but what the hell... They are well built cars, fun to drive and can last a long time. Keep it clean, with good tires and brakes, and have fun driving it. At 89k you shouldn't worry too much about what might happen, 'cause any damage has already been done.
The synthetic transmission fluid and the special G12 antifreeze are designed to last the life of the automobile - so yes, they are correct. As far as the $60 oil change it could be a combination of two things:
1) The VR6 engine has a larger oil capacity than the 4 cylinder VWs - I believe around 5-6 quarts
2) They are probably using synthetic oil - I would check to make sure.
hey y'all, I'm about to join the Passat world and right now I'm at the final stage of negotiating with the dealer. for the trim I requested, which is 2005 Passat GLS 1.8T Fwd 4dr Sedan (1.8L 4cyl Turbo 5A) with ESP and cold weather package, MSRP is $26070, Edmunds invoice is $23914, True Market Value is $24577, and the dealer's quote is $22681 + tt&l. can anyone please tell me if this sounds a good deal? I'm not sure what you guys were getting at. current incentive is $1500. holdback is 2%. I guess I need to verify the tt&l part as well. maybe more triques there? thanks a lot!
Comments
is it worth paying an extra $5-$7k for AWD? i live in snow country and totaled my last car in snow. Do passats do well in the snow?
thanks
"is it worth paying an extra $5-$7k for AWD? i live in snow country and totaled my last car in snow. Do passats do well in the snow?"
I didn't realize that the 4motion version was that much more expensive. When you say you live in "snow country," it would probably help if you were more specific. You get a little snow all the time, you get deep snow occasionally, or you get deep snow all the time?
Much has been written about the advantages that dedicated snow tires bring to the Passat in both FWD and 4 motion. Depending on your answer to the above and if that price spread is accurate, then I'd give serious thought to FWD with 4 high quality snow tires. If it's deep snow all the time for you and the roads aren't well treated, then 4motion with 4 snow tires would be my choice. People report they have awesome traction and regularly outperform SUV's on all-season tires.
In southwestern PA, we get on average 40" snow a year and lots of hills. But the snow usually comes as an inch now, couple inches a few days later. We seldom get really deep snow all at one time. I survive quite nicely on all seasons with FWD - I've only had the ASR activate once, and the ABS two or three times this winter. But where I live the roads are plowed and salted heavily. And I have a job that allows me to wait on the plow and salt trucks...
AWD is not just for breakfast any more, no wait, that's orange juice. AWD is not just for winter or low traction situations, it improves the performance, safety and fun of a Passat or any car that is so equipped.
There are many debates about the efficacy of AWD vs RWD (and even vs FWD). It seems that the popular opinion is that for perfomance minded folks, RWD or AWD is a must (hence the rush of new cars that are either RWD or AWD).
With respect to snow, if that is all you are concerned with in considering an AWD vs FWD Passat, I would agree that 4 wheels mounted with snow tires on a FWD version would be fine to pass through the snow days. When there is deep snow, heavy snow, persistent snow, well AWD will offer or CAN offer greater motive certainty. If you live where snow is moderate, I contend you can do just fine with AWD with High Performance All Season Rubber, too. Then you can keep the A/S tires on year round.
Although this is not a "perfectly true and accurate" statement, the spirit of it is -- you should consider AWD for the benefits it brings, minor on that list of benefits would be "snow traction." Major on that list would be performance regardless of the coefficient of friction, safety and the fun-factor. The reason, so it is written, that so many folks buy SUV's is NOT to go off road, it is to acquire AWD or 4WD for the daily drive whatever that may be. With AWD in a Passat you simply add all the goodness of AWD to an already competent German sporting sedan -- which, in my estimation, make the whole thing more attractive year round.
Now where that $5 to $7K number ever came from is, to me, still a mystery. Note even on the Cadillac SRX that AWD costs less than $2000 as a standalone option.
Read up on ESP (now standard on Passats). It provides "computer smarts" that increase safety and handling.
Try a long series of identical test drives with the FWD and the AWD version -- tackle some twisties and try some acceleration at the apex of some sharp corners and see if you can differentiate between the two variants. If you can or can't, you will have made progress in making your choice.
AWD is often demonstrated and/or sold first as a low traction tool -- I suspect this is due to the ease of selling this notion. I have a prediction: AWD will be virtually universal (at least as an option) within a relatively short time period (look how many cars in the past year alone now offer at least one model with AWD).
No one, I assume (I hope), reading this would ever question the need for 4 wheel brakes, even though we all know the front wheels do the vast majority of the stopping of a moving vehicle. The fact that we even debate the value of AWD (beyond "snow") is not surprising and even though I find it, personally, incomprehensible that if AWD is offered (and it is cheap) it would not be an "automatic" choice. Yet, I do understand that it has not yet become "in our minds" as logical and natural as four wheel brakes.
I have had (well my wife and I together) have had 27 Audis, well over 50% of them AWD, the differences are NOT subtle, but may not reveal themselves on casual test drives.
However, therefore, notwithstanding, even an FWD Passat is certainly a fine driving automobile that when shod with 4 winter tires will successfully and safely go in the snow. If that is your overriding concern perhaps the extra $1700 for AWD would not be a worthwhile choice -- drive it like YOU live.
If we all switch to AWD, OIL price will go up by 5% but may also bring down accident rate.
we are trying to change the oil in our 2001 passat. the tranmission fluid was accidently let out instead of the oil....we are having a hard time finding where to put the new transmission fluid. can someone help us find where to find?
Not an uncommon mistake.
The transmission is a sealed unit. There is no dipstick under the hood.
According to the Bentley manual, the unit needs to be filled from underneath using VW specified AT fluid. My recollection is that the transmission needs to reach a certain temperature in order to be properly filled.
Quite a few people just get towed to the dealer for the ATF refill.
Too much risk, too much money at stake for this to be done away from the dealership.
And, if you are having this done at a Transmission Shop and they don't know how to do this, what does that tell you? There are enough of these cars on the road that any transmission shop that can't change the fluid should be suspect.
And, and, and, who let the wrong oil out in the first place (rhetorical question)? Passats as I hope y'all know are "breathtakingly expensive" to repair out of warranty. If this car is out of warranty and you are taking it to a non VW/Audi repair place (Fred's Corner Tire Store, for instance) -- you must have more money than most folks.
I remember once considering changing my anti-freeze in my German car -- "now where's the petcock?" I said to myself. Where's the. . .oh fughetaboudit -- "dealer!"
Unfortunately with Jettas reaching the $26K mark, it is unlikely you will find anything other than a very base '06 Passat around the $28K mark. I think they'll more likely be in the $32-36K range, but that is just mere specualtion going off of the '05 New Jetta pricing model. I just purchased an '05 Passat GLS TDI for $26,200 + $500 VW Loyalty, but don't think that the new Passat TDIs (when they are released) will be anywhere near that pricing. In fact, when I priced an '05 new Jetta TDI just like my '04 Jetta GLS TDI, the MSRP was $26,600. I paid almost $7K less for my '04 TDI. I'm hoping that VW gets their pricing model back in line with their target audience. Even with the new bells and whistles and larger body, the new Jetta is not worth $7K more than I paid for my '04.
-PR-
03 Ford F350 SuperCrew KingRanch 6.0L Diesel
04 VW Jetta GLS TDI
05 VW Passat GLS TDI
Currently they lose on every sale (and make it up in volume?!?) and apparently receive a subsidy of VW AG from the successes of Audi AG. This needs to cease. There are VW's that are lurking under most folks radar that can play just fine with Audis and BMW's for example. One that comes to mind was the R32 -- I don't think I ever saw one of them more than a little of $30K. I drove both the Audi TT and the R32 with the 3.2 engine -- the R32 seemed like much more car to me and it was over $10,000 less -- making it a relative bargain.
Before I go off the deep end, it seems to me that VW cannot afford to build Corollas, despite the fact that the comparison to the Corolla has been made recently concerning the new Jetta.
I am so angry that I am ready to drive my '99 Passat thru a dealership window.
It has bled me dry in the 3 years I have had it (bought it from a dealer w/ 32,000miles on it) in SPITE of how carefully and dutifully I have taken care of it. The problems started the second year of ownership and I now have 92,000 miles on it.
I am the only driver. I don't drive it in rush hour traffic (I live in a sparsley populated area and am close to work.)
Over half the miles are freeway drives on the weekend.
And STILL it is constantly breaking down----computer resets (4x in 3 yrs.)or part replacements. For instance, in the last 12 months ALONE I have had these expensive repairs:
1.Control Arms (no, VW has not remimbursed me for this repair I had done b-4 the recall)
2.Thermostat
3. Oil Leak
4. Temperature Sensor
5.Ignition Module
There must be others out there w/ just as lousy an experience.....and I even owned 2 different air-cooled VW vans from the 70's which ran FAR BETTER than this in spite of going 120,000 miles in each one!!!!!
I can't afford to NOT repair it since I can't sell it this way but I can't afford another car either as my down payment has been spent on repairs. OOOOOOO, I am so angry!
ihatevwpassat
I would not call it a solution but it is a possibility.
Krzys
PS How much did it cost to fix your car ?
http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/atfchange/
Which is why I buy cars which are near or at the end of their production cycle (most of the bugs are usually worked out by then)...
Thanks in advance for any help.
I am having quite a bit of trouble with my 1995 passat. Somehow water is leaking into my car and my front and back passenger floorboards are totally soaked! My engine light comes on and off too. If you would tell me what you were told about these problems and how they were fixed. I am not getting the ansers that I need. Thank you for any information.
:confuse: :mad:
My VW mechanic replaced a valve, no difference, and is still deciding what to look for next. Any ideas??? Now it's starting to have trouble starting up too. OTHERWISE, I do love the zippy little thing. HELP !
Can someone tell me what kind of oil, and how often I should change it in the 2004 Passat 1.8 Turbo, because my manual states, every 5K , and I can use 5W30, but what I'm reading within these forums does not coincide with my owners manual. Thanks to all in advance.
Thanks Again
NIKI1
There are only three 5w-30 oils you can use - all synthetic. As a matter of fact, every oil listed on the VW 502.00 spec is synthetic. Here's the list from VW:
Engine oils with Volkswagen Oil Standard VW 502.00 approval:
Available at authorized Volkswagen dealers Volkswagen Part No. ZVW 352 540S 5W-40
Castrol Castrol Syntec 5W-40
Chevron Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40
Elf Elf Excellium LDX 5W-40
Kendall Kendall GT-1 Full synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Mobil Mobil 1 0W-40
Motul Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker state Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker state Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Pennzoil-Quaker state Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40
Pennzoil-Quaker state Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30
Seventysix lubricants 76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40
Total Total Quartz 9000 5W-40
Valvoline Valvoline Synpower 5W-30
Valvoline Valvoline Synpower 5W-40
It has always been Volkswagen’s policy to continuously improve its products. Volkswagen, therefore, reserves the right to make changes in design and specifications,
and tomake additions or improvements to its productswithout incurring any obligation to install themon products previouslymanufactured.Text and specifications
in this Supplement are based on information and knowledge available at the time of printing. All rights are reserved.May not be reproduced or translated in
whole or in part without the written consent of Volkswagen of America, Inc. Specifications are subject to change without notice. If you are not sure which oil to
use, consult with your authorized Volkswagen Service Advisor. 2004 Volkswagen of America, Inc. Printed in USA, July 2004 241.VW.APPROVED.
OILS.CHART.FOR1.8LTURBO.94
So use any oil other than VW 502.00 spec at your own risk.
BTW: Change your oil every 5000 miles (not one mile over). Not doing so also voids your warranty.
Thanks for the info, but I just have one question. Why wasn't I told this when I purchased the 2004 Passat 1.8T in Nov. 2004?
Thanks
NIKI1
-PR-
The network of VW dealerships are a hit or miss. Some are good, some are average, and others are downright lousy.
Again just my .02
klh59
So far I love the car! It is sporty and so very fast. I was cruising down the highway and didn't realize I was going 85 (yikes).
Any and all help is immensely appreciated!!
Shawnna
The key problem usually is overcome by "rocking" the steering wheel so that it is not putting pressure on the steering column lock -- I doubt that it is a key problem per se.
Use only synthetic oil and always change the oil and filter at the same time.
Make certain all fluids are new (brake fluid, coolant, gear oil, power steering oil, transmission oil, engine oil and what the heck windshield washer fluid, too). This one time expense can save you $100's or more later. Have these fluids changed at the dealer or some company that works on VW's and Audis and other Germans predominantly.
Do not squirt WD40 on anything -- let someone else squirt whatever whereever -- often WD40 will do more harm than good.
Have the brake pads checked (especially the rear ones) -- brake pads are so much less expensive than new rotors.
Check the "drive" belts, hoses and THE BIG ONE: the serpentine belt (if this belt fails, you will spends a 4 figure number to get things put back together). Unless you know when the serpentine (sometimes called the timing belt) was last changed, by whom and at the milage, etc., you had better consider this a must do (it will cost a little bit of money -- a 3 figure number -- but this one is the biggie that could cost you a ton if this belt goes south on you.)
Anything that needs lubricating -- and I mean anything -- should be lubed (with the appropriate product).
If the tires and good and the car doesn't pull to one side or the other, drive it until the tires need replacing then have the tires replaced and a 4 wheel alignment performed. Do not underinflate the tires, a couple pounds overinflation is not a problem, tho.
Use a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in your next full tank of gas -- get it from your VW dealer.
Make certain the "seals" have appropriate lubricants (talking abou the window and door and trunk seals).
Wash the car thoroughly and then paste wax it (with the wax that comes from the
dealer).
Wipe the seats with a leather cleaner and preservative (dealer has this stuff too), clean the dashboard and coat it with low sheen Armor - all.
All this stuff, and I mean all of it, if done will probably cost about a grand (plus or minus). The dealer will probably charge more than a non dealer and as long as the non dealer uses dealer parts, fluids and stuff -- and the non dealer is German car capable -- you can probably save a buck or two. The serpentine belt, if needed to be replaced, will be the biggie, sorry to say; but, you may not need to replace it.
Drive long and prosper. (old Vulcan saying. . .)
Good luck.
Interesting enough... I called around to price how much it would cost to change all the fluids. I called about three non dealer shops and then, for a lark, decided to call one of the big dealers here in Columbus. They told me that the transmission and radiator were maintance free and would never need to be flushed or changed. Huh? And then they told me it would be $60 for an oil change. Yikes.
Shawnna
1) The VR6 engine has a larger oil capacity than the 4 cylinder VWs - I believe around 5-6 quarts
2) They are probably using synthetic oil - I would check to make sure.
can anyone please tell me if this sounds a good deal? I'm not sure what you guys were getting at. current incentive is $1500. holdback is 2%. I guess I need to verify the tt&l part as well. maybe more triques there?
thanks a lot!