Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier

onlysurfer

I own 2002 GLX 4Motion can can say that it doesn't handle all that well in snow in Boston metro area, primarily because It does not have Electronic Stability Control. I had Lexus RX300 w/o VSC which, from my experience, performed better. My bigger worry would be maintenance; I'll be trading in my car once warranty runs out.

prometey

Please help!

I just purchased a new 2005 Passat GLX V6. The car is a real pleasure to drive, however, with the first tank of gas, it went only for a 240 miles with average consumption of 14-15 MPG. I got concerned and after I put gas for second time, I have been closely monitoring the MPG numbers which so far show average of 19 MPG. 19 doesn't sound so bad if I was not driving 90% on the highway.

I am very disappointed and my question is: Is this normal or not? Should I go back to the dealership to complain. Most important indicator for me is - how many miles does a 2.8 V6 engine go?

Thanks for your help!

onlysurfer

I get about 260 to 280 miles on each tank for 2002 Passat V6 4Motion so about 19-20 MPG. My driving is mix, 60% on I-93 in Boston via infamous bigdig, 20% in downtonw Boston and 20% on suburban streets. I use 89 octane.

600kgolfgt

You won't see a noticeable increase in mileage until the engine starts to break in - once you get into the 5,000 - 10,000 mile range.

krzyss

I have 2003 1.8T Tip Wagon with ESC. It handles winter nicely if you have good/proper tires.
I live Northwest of Worcester, MA.

What kind of tires do you have on your GLX 4Motion? How many miles on them?

Krzys

onlysurfer

I had the factory tires and changed two of them before last winter at about 30k miles. Car now has over 38k miles so I suppose time to change remaining two before winter starts. I never paid attention to getting any specific tires, any suggestion on which one to buy?

I don't have ESC but assume that ESC makes a big difference. Can feels like it's floating, not gripping, when driven on snow.

rogsmith

I have just had my 2003 Passat repaired to the tune of over $4500 because of water in the footwell. It was not warrantteed because the dealer said that if I had done the 20k mile checkup there they "might" had noticed water in the battery well. The problem occurred at 37k miles after several days of rain.

I pulled the battery to see what was going on. The windshield water goes into a pan with two approx 1.5 " diameter drain holes with fluted skirted grommets. Presumably, the grommets are designed to let the windshield water out but not the ground water in. Unfortunately, they also can collect debris which clogs the system. The battery and other components are mounted over the pan and there is very little visual access to the pan. It sure is a bad design.

The problem is that there is no real cure other than building a garage and making sure that your workplace doesn't have any trees in that parking space.

fish8

I drove by a new Passat (not '06) that said 4 Motion and V6 on the rear deck lid, but the car had hub caps. I thought all V6's came with alloy rims....not hub caps. It had a used tag in the window. i wonder if the car dealer removed the alloys and installed hub caps????

krzyss

A few notes:
Aren't you supposed to change all 4 tires on AWD Passat at once?
My other car, Subaru Legacy, must have no more that 1/4" difference in circumference of the tires.

I have steep driveway and I was able while backing up, car in reverse slid forward.
This is with traction control and other gimmicks. If there is no enough traction between road and tire you will slide.

My Michelin MXV4 Energy tires had roughly 33000 miles and plenty of tread. If it was not middle of the winter I would keep them.

I bought Bridgestone Potenza RE950 all seasons. So far so good.

Krzys

kauseway1

Can someone privately email me the link to the online how to change your brake article? I would like to review it as the pictures in the book are not so grate.

I spent the day running around trying to get parts as the pads on the rear are already shot. The first thing is noone told me about the special tool needed for the rear caliper piston at any of the auto parts stores. And the book did not mention it either as far as I can remember. So I had to go online and find you guys when I broke 2 caliper clamps trying to push it in. On top of that I had to travel across town about 1 hour drive to the only location I could find the rear disc and they gave me the wrong one!

I do have on other question. Is there a difference between a non-abs and abs brake pad? Thanks

mike616

Does anyone know of a way to clean out the engine of sludge? I bought a 2002 Passat and was wondering if there was a way to clean it out so I can avoid the problems associated.
Does the dealer offer this?

Thanks!

altair4

http://www.auto-rx.com/

People on other forums seem to have had some success with this product.

I've read elsewhere that some dealers have an engine cleaning system which hooks up a machine to clean the engine. No idea if this is harsh on the engine or not.

davidjt

I'll be getting into my tale of woe later ('99 GLS, 1.8T, 75k), but just a word about extended warranty. They are NEVER worth the money (even at 50% off). Your purchase money goes into a 'bank' account of sorts, which is then used for investment by the insurance company (and it is an insurance company) that is offering the warranty. When you put a claim in, they will find the most PAPER THIN EXCUSE CONCIEVEABLE to limit your pay out to the precise dollar amount you paid for the warranty.

Example - "Well, Mr. DavidJT, if you had brought the car in when transmission bearing A failed, you could have avoided the damage to bearings B and C, so we're only paying for the cost to repair bearing A." 1) I'm neither a mechanic nor clairvoyant, how the hell was I supposed to know what was going on inside my transmission!?!; b) I had it towed in at the first sign of trouble, which that it wouldn't go into gear. The insurance co. even managed to piss off their contract adjustor sent to inspect the car.

For both cars that I owned third party extended warranties, I got back dollar for dollar what I put into them, so it's not ALL bad. However, in the final analysis I was out of pocket for both 'covered' repairs, and gave the insurance company an interest free loan for several years. I DID NOT get what I bargained for. Pay yourself instead.

davidjt

Cross-post from Problems & Solutions Thread.

Long Story:
So I bring the damn thing in to diagnose the ABS/Brake light. When I pick it up, there's a 'bracket' on the RO, and 2 hours labor. I ask what the problem was, and how did the bracket fix it? Neither question answered, but I was assured the problem was sovled, and I could call tomorrow to talk to the tech. I turn the key to start the car, and ABS light is still on (Didn't anybody test drive the damn thing?). Service Writer monkey, apparently recently moved into that position because he couldn't sell cars either and caused less damage back there, tells me to bring it back tommorrow.

8 AM next morning, I bring the car back, and was promised a status update first thing. I CALL THEM at 2:00, call returned at 3:00, the Uber-technician ("Fred") who was the most qualified to work on the car didn't show up to work. Could I leave the car with them another day (no loaner, of course). I go down there that day, talk to the shop foreman. He tells me what the problem was (ECM Comm failure), the 'bracket' was the license plate bracket that their lot valet crushed while moving cars around (THEY TRIED TO CHARGE ME FOR IT!)

They asked for one more day to let "Fred" look at it. Third day I get a call saying that it's going to be too expensive to fix (no details) and that I can get a full refund and come get my car.

The guy lied to me, and I told him so to his face (and more importantly, in front of other customers). I actually doubt "Fred" even exists (no one named Fred on the technicial roster posted in the service department.

So aside from time and aggravation, I'm back where I started. I've read the history of the ABS ECM problems in this forum - any ideas on when I can go to get the damn thing fixed (NYC/LI Area).

fish8

From the research I have done and from my own experience with the Ext War I have purchased, your statement does not jive with my experiences. I have always read that a third party EW is not smart move compared to the purchase of the manufacturers (if offered) warranty. Some third party warranties are fine, but the risk of getting a fly-by-night company is too great.

I have NEVER had any problems using the manufacturers warranty and getting the full amount covered. Maybe I am a rare example, but I don't think so.

I do think extended warranties offer allot of people a peace of mind. We recently purchased a T&C minivan with an extended warranty. I hope we don't have to use it, but at least i know we are covered for any issues that arise through 85,000 miles.

To each their own!

altair4

I bought the Honda Care extended warranty for our 97 Accord, when we bought the car new. It was a 100,000 mile, 7 year deal. For the first 6 years, I never had to use it. I was beginning to think, geez, I wasted my money. But in the last year of it, though, they covered a radiator, the ECM, upper radiator hose, and two wheel bearings. Total repairs exceeded the cost of the warranty by quite a bit.

When I bought our Passat, they didn't offer a VW-backed warranty.

davidjt

Mfr. backed warranty may be and likely is better, esp. if a dealer is doing the service. My experience was with 3d party both times. First time was my first car as a teenager, my father negotiated for me. I only got involved when it came time to file a claim some four years later. I don't recall the company. Second time the warranty was allegedly backed by Travelers, a large enough name so I thought, but turned out everything was handled by some middleman between me and them, I got no satisfaction from Travelers.

I stand by my position on 3d party warranties: better off putting money in your own bank account for the inevitable repairs; no worse off if you put it under your mattress.

Good luck with the minivan.

amumy

Has anyone ever had oil in their coolant overflow? I have a 2000 Volkswagen Passat GLS with 69000 miles on it and it has been serviced every 3,000 miles. It has never overheated and I got no warning that there was a problem until it started leaking oil and coolant Sunday. Please help me if you can.

altair4

Chances are the contamination is occurring at the oil cooler, just above the oil filter. It's not an uncommon issue.

Wait, you say it's leaking oil and coolant? Do you mean you can see oil in the coolant in the overflow container, or is the car physically leaking oil and coolant out of the engine/cooling system onto the ground?

amumy

I took it to a mechanic who only works or volkswagens and he said he has never seen this before. He said there was oil in the coolant overflow and in my driveway there is oil and coolant.

altair4

I'd definitely look at the oil cooler. Look for a pink dried crust around where the oil filler screws on. As I said, it's definitely not a totally unheard of issue. Check out some of the Passat-specific forums around the web. Search for oil cooler problems, oil in coolant, etc. You'll see what I mean.

And since it's leaking onto the ground, it shouldn't be that hard for your tech to spot the leak.

amumy

thanks for the help!

nessuno

I just had this happen to my 2002 Passat and it turned out that the Oil Cooler had to be replaced. Apparently it had over heated on a long drive through AZ (imagine that) and it sustained some damage. Apparently, when the oil and coolant mixes together it causes too much pressure and it leaks out of somewhere underneath the car, a nice milk chocolate color in my case. With the coolant flush, it would have cost around $750 to fix but luckily they repaired it under warranty. This is only one of many problems I have had with my Passat and has completely turned me off to VWs as a whole.

onlysurfer

was it V6 or 1.8T?

amumy

Thanks for the help!

mvc_jones

Has anyone done an off-lease purchase of their leased Passat from VW Credit? Any information on experience, ability to negotiate (i.e., price, CPO status, financing, necessity to work with VW Credit or local dealer, or other negotiable factors) would be appreciated.

Thanks.

raulg

It has 88000 miles on in 1.8L turbo - great shape. $7500. Everyone I talk to warns me that repair costs on VW's are SO expensive in comparison to domestic brands.

Has that been a common concern of VW owners?
Are VW's more/less/same reliable as other vehicles?
Would you recommend purchasing this vehicle?
1998 VW Passat

fish8

Have you run a Carfax?

I would be very hesitant...

altair4

Just start reading the threads on this forum, then decide. Personally, I probably wouldn't do it.

Oh, and it's a 1.8 litre engine, not 2.0.

raulg

What are some reasons not to do it? Mileage? Model? Year? I cannot really buy a more expensive vehicle at this time. I need to get rid of my SUV (gashog). I will read some threads, but more input is appreciated. THanks.

fish8

There are numerous reasons. As you know, VW's (especially older one's) are not the most reliable cars. When, not if, something goes wrong the expense will be greater compared to a Accord or Camry.

I'll go back to my previous question. Have you run a Carfax? or taken the car to an independent mechanic? Maintenance on this car would be VERY important. Does it come with ALL the maintenance records?

For that money I would recommend a Accord or Camry. These makes are known to last longer than a European made car. Good luck!!

altair4

As fish8 pointed out, maintenance is the key to older Passats. For instance, was the oil change interval adhered to? Did you use synthetic oil?

You don't want to buy a car only to discover that's got a case of oil sludge and you need to drop the pan, clean the oil screen, etc. Or worse, find that the engine's on it's last legs because it was oil starved.

The carfax idea is good. The idea of having it looked at is good, but I'd make sure it was by someone very familiar with VW's 1.8T engine. Make sure they pull the OBD codes and see what's there.

If you see any warning lights on this car's instrument cluster (MIL, ABS, etc) - walk away, quickly.

I'd check to see if all of the carpet is dry (all 4 footwells). If not, walk away.

Has it had the timing belt, tensioner and water pump chnaged? If not, figure on spending at least $800 to have this done. The manual will say it's due at 105K miles - but this car has an interference engine. That means if the belt breaks, the valves get smashed by the piston, and you need valve/head work - mucho dinero.

You could pick a more reliable car. You know this engine prefers premium, right? Coming out of a SUV, it might not pinch you much, but others complain about it. The engine also needs synthetic oil in 5w-40 grade meeting VW Spec 502.00. It's not the most readily available stuff, but you can find it.

raulg

Thank you guys for your replies. I do always request that the dealer pulls a carfax for me to look at before purchasing a used vehicle. That is always a great idea. After searching through the threads on this site, and reading what you two have to say, I must admit that I am not feeling confident in purchasing this vehicle. Sounds way too high maintenance to me. THanks for your time.

fish8

Sorry to of scared you off, but we were just being realistic. Though my 2 VW's I have owned have never had any problems....

altair4

Ditto what fish8 said. These cars need more TLC than others and you really can't know how it went with the previous owner. Good luck on your hunt to replace your SUV.

fish8

WOW!!! Sorry to hear about your adventure with your '98 Passat. Sounds like it's time to upgrade to a '99....

bronsonb

I haven't done an off-lease purchase, but I've spoken with a few people who have. I heard that in the past, VW wasn't really willing to negotiate on the buy-out price. But I can't see that they'd maintain that stance now with the new style in the showroom.

I am leasing a 2003 GLS wagon (1.8t), and I'll be interested in buying it at the end of the lease if VW will make me a deal. Residual value is $14000, but there's no way the car will be worth that much next year at 4 years old with almost 60K miles. I figured I'd give them $8,000 or $9,000 for it. If not, I'll turn it and pay the disposition fee. Thankfully I (a) have 15,000 miles a year for the lease (and have kept it under that each year) and (b) have the damage waiver to cover minor nicks, dings, and scratches. But if I could get a good deal, I'd probably keep it. It's been a good car for the past three years.

Good luck on buying yours. Also, you might want to post this question on one of the Lease Discussing boards as I know someone there would have more information for you. Just look under the general 'Forums' heading.

markcincinnati

You could lease a brand new car with 100% warranty coverage for $200 per month (they are there to be had.) At the end of 36 months, you would have spent your $7500 (but not in one lump) and you would have nothing.

If you go with the VW for $7500, you will be out the entire $7500 and at the end of 36 months, assuming the car is still running and has cost NOTHING in repair, you will have (financially) nothing, too.

Pay your money, take your chances.

I'd go with the new car.

But that is because I don't like nasty $$$$$ shocks.

jimipirate

I am just joining this discussion and had my rear brake pads and rotors replaced by the dealer at 23K miles under warranty. I had mine replaced because of a brake pulsation problem. After that brake dust was 3 times as bad as the front and after 20K miles the pads were worn out. That is not acceptable. Has to be a composition problem. Rear brakes shouldn't wear out that fast, I don't care what the dealer says. Let me know your thoughts and or resolution. JMIPIRATE

evillaphoto65

I have a 2000 passat wagon with 76,000 miles. It just gave me an in dash error of
"EMISSIONS WORKSHOP!"
Does anyone know about this problem?

Thanks

walkjc

Hello,
I am about to take my 99 Passat in for warranty work to fix an oil leak. The leak is high on the RHS between the exhaust manifold and engine block coming out of a pressure / vacuum control looking thing. There are also other areas that leak, specifically out of seals and the valve covers. The dealer has replaced valve cover gaskets (2x), cam seals and tensioner seals, but the RHS leak continues. It is slight and I don't lose appreciable oil, there is no pooling nor do quarts of oil vanish on a weekly basis. I use VW specified oil and OEM oil filters. Oil does burn on occasion (after 30 mins driving) and fouls out spark plugs.
I've performed maintenance and oil changes religiously on this car which has 62,000 miles. The leak has been noticeable since 34,000 miles. They've tried to repair at 38,000 miles, 42,000 miles and 48,000 miles by changing all gaskets and seals, but it's to no avail.

Does anyone know what might be causing my over pressure condition and/or oil leak? Has anyone else had this problem?

Please help!
Thanks!

altair4

I'd have the PCV system checked for blockages. Could be allowing excess pressure to develop in the engine while it's running, causing the leaks.

wileeeb

Don't buy a VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT!! I keep putting money into mine thinking....this time things will work....and then I think, I've put so much money into the car I need to keep it. But when the car runs...it's nice! A LEMON, but a nice looking and nice riding lemon....when it isn't in the shop. (TOTAL $6,700+ (yes, I am an idiot because I always thought each LARGE repair would be the last…..anything with a $ means I paid for the repair) (Oil change costs ever 3,000 miles not included below)
(1) I bought my 1999 PASSAT new.
(2) Moon roof had 20+ service visits to keep from opening/closing on its own sometimes at slow speed other times warp speed. (Almost got my friend's hand when she put her hands up into the air.
(3) Oil pan leak $370 (1 month old - not covered by warranty - I was told that was due to a small pebble flying up from the road).
(4) Leather came undone the first year - warranty covered.
(5) Brake pads $700 - went out at 23,000+ miles - they are organic and have a life of approx $18,000 miles.
(6) Replace Reservoir + Fast Idle. $265 (41,000+ miles) not covered by warranty.
(7) Coolant Leak. 42,000+ miles. Covered by warranty.
(8) Tie Rod Kit. 42,000+ miles. Covered by warranty.
(9) ALL of the ceiling and side upholstery came unglued and fell down. Dealer blamed it on the hot weather and charged me. Corporate office reimbursed me. 43,000+ miles.
(10) Motor mounts + Rear CV boots. $200. 45,000+ miles
(11) Front rotors and pads. $336
(12) Crack in exhaust manifold. $797. 53,000+ miles.
(13) Emergency Switch. $115 53,000+ miles.
(14) Headlight Bulb $58 53,000+ miles.
(15) Brake Light + Brake Bulb. $43 58,000+ miles.
(16) RR Brake and noise in subframe. $233. 61,000+ miles
(17) Bleed Brake System + Power Steering Clamps. $245
(18) Water Pump. 65,000+ miles. Covered by warranty.
(19) Brake pads, rotors, serpentine belts. $605
(20) Window Regulator, Mounting Switch, Vacuum Lines. $508. 75,000+ miles.
(21) Brake rotors and disk hardware kit. $417.
(22) Wheel housing. 75,000+ miles. Covered by Warranty.
(23) Antilock brake system + replace undershield. $335 78,000+ miles.
(24) Brake lamp switch + cold start. $244 84,000+ miles.
(25) I forget what this repair was for. $599 $89,000+ miles
(26) L&R CV boots, rotors and headlights. $473 89,000+ miles
(27) Online Extended Warranty $1500 90,000+ miles
(28) Rack and pinion steering 98,000 miles. covered by extended warranty.
(29) Sept 05 problem.....transmission fluid is leaking from the SEALED TRANSMISSION - VW dealer said they want $250 to analyze the problem because it is a sealed system and that if anything is wrong (YES, there is, it’s blowing smoke everywhere) it would be at least $600+. I went car shopping today to look at the Honda Civics, Honda Accords, Toyota Corollas, Toyota Camrys and Nissan Altimas. Don't know what I'm going to get, but whatever I choose I think it simply has to be better than a Passat!!!!!!!!!!!!

bjbird2

Do you have to post in multiple forums? We get the message that you have a lemon. I have a 2002 1.8T Passat and haven't had any of the problems you list. It's been my favorite car of the 30+ that I've owned.

lmuller

Help! My front and back doors don't seem to be lined up right. When I opened them at the same time, the molding on the middle of the outside of the back door started to come off. It is now bent and folded over itself. The dealership fixed it once and now will not fix it again. It just happened this weekend to the other side of the car. Has anyone else had or heard of this problem?

arjay1

I have a 2000 with the 1.8t and have had that twice. I am having a little trouble remembering the first one. It was emissions related and it was the oil pressure sending unit or something like that. I just can't remember exactly, I blame it on middle age. I had it fixed for about $300 then received word from VW that they were extending the warranty coverage on this item due to numerous failures. I submitted my claim and copies of the work order to VW and received a check for the full amount I paid for the repair.
The second time I saw this message it was actually for the oxygen sensor. It seems to me it was around $250 to fix.
The Emissions Workshop is such a general warning that it could be almost anything related to the engine and exhaust.

robr2

I had the exact same thing happen to my 05 wagon about 2 weeks ago. My wife was opening and closing the passenger side doors and the rear moulding bent and crinkled and the front one loosened up a bit. I have not called the dealer yet as I'll need an oil change soon.

Keep me posted.

merckx

Last year,all four cloth panels on my 2001 Passat became unglued from their backings..as it's a low milage(35,000 miles now),I thought VW might help pay for it. They wouldn't,though. It really makes the interior look terrible....I'm really very,very dissappointed about this,enough to make this my last VW. Ironically,it's the best driving car I've ever had...

Anyone else have this happen to their inserts?

dortega99

I have a 2005 Passat V6 with approx 6,200 miles on the ODO. I had the oil changed at 3,000 miles at my trusty local Mobil station. After about 3100 miles later, I checked the dipstick and it was at the bottom (actually just a little below) the hash marks!! I immediately topped the oil off. The car is not visibly leaking (no burning oil smell or spots on the driveway). I called my local VW dealer and talked to service. They stated that I can expect about 1 quart consumption per 1,000 miles. This seems very high. Additionally, I was told by a friend that the "hash marks" on the dipstick represent one quart of oil, not the full 6 quarts the car holds.

My friend stated that his Toyota Camry uses only a fraction of a quart every 3,000 miles. So I'm confused as to whether
1) is my car consuming too much?
2) is it true that the Passat V6's should be expected to consume 1 qt / 1k miles?
3) Do the hash marks represent 1 quart of oil?? :confuse:

thx in advance
-david

p.s. gas price check-in Massachusetts 9/13/05 - Full tank of Premium costed close to $50.00 this morning. We go through a tank a week. OUCH.

600kgolfgt

The engine hasn't been broken in yet. Once you reach the 15,000 mile mark or so, your oil consumption should decrease.