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This seems low (and lower than what they used to recommend).
Anyone know what's happening? Why they recommend such a low pressure? Is it a good recommendation? If not, what would be better?
Thanks.
The tire pressures listed are divided a couple of ways for that model year (and earlier). First it's divided by speed (over 100 mph and under). Then it's divided by load - full and half load.
The lowest pressure (under 100 and half load) is something like what you are saying.
Personally, I have my tires set a bit higher (32 PSI all around, actually). This seems to work well without making the ride too harsh or creating any wewar abnormalities. The thing I don't like about the actual pressure listed leaves little margin for problems like a slow leak, unexpected cold weather, etc.
Now, on the newer models (I think from 2004 forward) a change in the FMVSS (the gov't regs that dictate everything on cars) mandated that a vehicle manufacuturer can only post 1 tire pressure - essentially the one for highest load and speed. I believe that the '04 and '05 Passats have a upper thirties pressure for the front tires and 44 PSI on the rears. The new regulations dictate exactly what the label must look like and where it must be posted on the vehicle. That's why it's no longer on the filler flap on the newer cars. Google FMVSS and tire pressure regulations for more.
It's just your gov't looking for ways to help you. All bought to you as a result of the the Ford Explorer/Firestone debacle.
BTW, I noticed that the VW manual says that (in addition to the above) if one is using all-season tires (as I am) one should add 3 pounds to the PSI - bringing it to 32 for me, just what you've been using.
So - 32 sounds right to me. Again, many thanks.
http://www.steve-hall.com/cgi-bin/VAG-Locator.pl
and the actual vendor is:
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/
altair4 - thanks for the assist.
azz1 - you can also check this out: http://www.frappr.com/vagcomlocator
xmas day. going approx.70 on the nys thruway my sunroof exploded on my 03 passat
CAN ANYONE ADVISE ME AS TO WHAT TO DO WHEN I GO TO THE DEALER WITH A SUN ROOF THAT IS NO LONGER THERE?
Some notes: Between 40,000 and 48,500 miles, too many things broke to warrant keeping it. Iffy heating, additional brake jobs, MIL (check engine) light that came on and off randomly DESPITE paying $360 to fix it...plus a broken horn, turn signal, ANOTHER burnt headlight, torn CV boots....it was getting ridiculous. As many of you have experienced, no other car that I have previously owned needed THIS much work so quickly at similar mileage. At least they were all minor problems (never got stranded at least).
The VW was as tight and rattle free as the first day I owned it (actually, tighter as the passenger seat stopped rattling at 3K). The paint is OUTSTANDING - it looked as if it could handle 100K of without fading. The bumpers were outstanding too. The interior was similarly durable...especially the leather (though I found the seat uncomfortable for long drives and small for winter clothes). This is no small feat in a place like downtown Chicago where the weather extremes, poor roads, and stop and go traffic seem to get the best of the structural integrity, paint and interiors of other cars.
So it is with mixed feelings I leave the VW brand...especially with the new passat wagon spy shots looking so tempting. I see now and appreciate the driving difference between the typical "family" german car vs its japanese counterpart. But it came at too high a price and way too much aggravation. If VW picks up their commitment to quality and customer service as Audi is doing, I'll be back....if not, enjoy your VW's anyway ;-).
My question is that I see SO MANY problems listed on forums with this car. Am I buying a headache?? I know the two MAJOR problems are timing belt failure at around 50K and oil problems with the engine. I had them ask the dealer to check the timing belt which reported back looked ok ( can I trust the dealer to determine belt life by sight evaluation???)
Car is very clean and like I said they have had no other problems. Thanks so so much!
I was warned when I posted C&D comparo results in two forums.
Anyway, does anyone have any advice for wantavan1?
We just bought my daughter a new Passat GLS 4 dr sedan. It looks beautiful and rides well. Since it was the end of the year and the last 2005 the dealer had, we received a great deal.
My concern is the reliability for this car and VW in general. Anyone have a 2005? What has been your experience with this car? I am concerned after reading numerous negative things about VW and this cars reliability.
Thanks,
John
Personally, I think you made a good choice getting your daughter that Passat. It's more likely than most cars to help her avoid an accident (great handling, and the all-important electronic skid control) and to protect her if she does have one (heaven forbid) with features like the full-length head-curtain airbags.
As for reliability, my '03 1.8T now has 46K miles and has been quite reliable mechanically. No oil consumption, no engine repairs, brakes still good, etc. There were three small trim problems, but the dealer fixed them quickly under warranty, no questions asked. But mechanically, so far no problems at all. Let's hope that lasts.
Mine is an 03; given that the '05 is the last year of a long run (whether it began with the 1997.5 or the 2001.5), I'd guess that even more of the kinks from earlier years have been worked out.
How can she keep her Passat in good shape? Here's the little I know:
1) Do all the scheduled maintenance on time, and always make sure the dealer uses one of the VW-approved synthetic oils (I still bring my own store-bought Mobil1 0w40)
2) Clay and wax the exterior twice a year (or hire someone to do it) - VW does a fine job with paint, but this will keep the car looking good.
3) I strongly recommend giving your daughter a booklet by Tom and Ray Magliozzi, a.k.a Click and Clack the Tappet Brothers - it's called "Ten Ways You May Be Ruining Your Car Without Even Knowing It!" (you can order it online for $4.50 - about what a quart of synth oil costs - at:
http://www.shamelesscommerce.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalo- gId=10101&storeId=10101&productId=28245&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=1361
Its advice will not only keep this car, or any car, in good condition for longer, it will also probably make her a safer driver.
4) In addition to what Tom and Ray recommend, one contributor to this forum recommends that after a long drive, those with the 1.8 T let it idle for at least a minute before turning it off, to give it the "turbo cooldown" it needs. Sounds good to me, so I do it.
I've worried about reliability more than I would have with a Camry or Accord, because of the reputation, but in reality, so far, so good. Again- I think you made an excellent choice, aside from getting a good deal.
Thanks for the information! I will sleep better now.
I will order the book. Also, thanks for the tip on running the engine after a long trip.
Have a safe and prosperous New Year!
John
http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/index.htm
As a sidenote, seems like a complete waste of time and money to replace the carpet until the leak is found....
Krzys
Just make sure the maintenance is done religiously and you should be fine. Unlike a Honda, you can't skimp on the required maintenance. Also, always use Synthetic oil.
I am on my 3rd VW and have posted here many times on my experience. I have 93,000 miles on my 2000 1.8t tip. I replaced tires at 72,000 miles. I put on new rear brakes only at 50,000 miles. I just had the brakes checked and they are still good. I did have to replace one of the oxygen sensors at about 75,000 miles which was a few hundred dollars. Other than that the vehicle has been as good as my previous 2 VW's. I have to note that my ABS Control Module is now bad so I have no ABS or Traction Control. I was quoted $1,200 from the dealer to replace but have found a place on the internet to order a unit for $250 and replace it myself. I keep my vehicles for a long time to get the money out of them so I don't anticipate getting rid of my Passat for another 5 years, at least. I don't mind the upcoming higher repair and maintenance costs because they are amortized over a lot of miles and they are cheaper than a car payment. Long story short, my Passat has been very reliable and I look forward to another 90,000 miles.
R. J.
Thanks
Parking the car on an incline (facing uphill) in the rain may have something to do with it.
Everything was working fine until I took it in for its 60000 mile inspection in late november. Two weeks later above stopped for the first time. No other major problems.
Let me know. I am trying to establish as a FACT that VW knew of this design /mfg weakness and failed to issue a recall . Good luck
I am hoping that I'll get to work in the same amount of time using the same amount of gas, but paying less for it. Is that correct?
I figure the anti-knock computer will let the engine adjust to the lower octane without a problem. Is that true?
I figure the car won't be as powerful, but in the real world I drive in that won't really matter. Is that true?
Any other points I should consider? (I've enjoyed giving the car exactly the octane of gas it's supposed to like best. But with tax time approaching, inflation eating at my income, etc.... you get the drift.)
Thanks for any input.
Some reflections on my 99 Passat 1.8 turbo (bought new in 1999):
Love the car, but would not buy another one.
1) Poor service at my dealer here in VA.
2) Some type of warning light is always coming on. On a recent trip to Charlottesville, had the brake, oil and check engine lights flashing/beeping together for 180 miles while the car was running fine. Never sure if the car's about to die on me or if I can safely make it home.
3) Expensive and time-consuming to get these things checked out- see #1 above.
4) Brakes didn't last very long and expensive to repair. Did it at a local brake shop for much less than dealer wanted.
5) Dip stick broke at the shaft. Never had this happen to a car before.
6) Molding strips along back cieling, next to doors, have detached.
7) Center instrument panel light burned out after 2 years. Driving at night, cannot see the climate control display.
8) Engine sludge occured about 70,000 miles. Dealer won't cover any potential repairs unless I have documentation of oil changes every 300 miles and they approve of the oil that was used. So far, hasn't needed to be replaced but I feel it's only a matter of time.
9) Only other car I've had was a '88 Honda Civic which had none of these issues in 11 years of ownership. My parents have owned 10 cars in my lifetime (US and foreign) with none of these problems. My brother has a '93 Passat which has required multiple repairs.
When the car's not in the shop and not warning me of some impending failure, I love it.
The light on the ventilation controls is an easy fix. You'll need to search some other forums for the specifics.
Yes - you need to use G12 coolant. DON'T mix coolants - bad things happen. You could consider just adding some distilled water, if you aren't down too much. More importantly, you need to find out where the coolant is going.
Good luck.
has anyone seen this?
I don't like taking it to my local dealer because they are a big scam. The last time they told me i needed brakes my cars brakes were only 50% worn, They told me that the cars brakes were worn to less then 30% and this is after they had charged me for a tune up on my car twice.
so you see I have no faith when it comes to dealers.
:confuse:
1) If I take this to the dealer, what should I expect to pay?
2) Given the answer to (1), is there an easy way to do this more cheaply? That is-- a cheap source for the bulb, and easy, foolproof instructions for installation - anyone know where to get such things easily, or should I just call the dealer?
Thanks.
I also installed the Euro headlight switch so I have control over running lights, headlamps or either of those with fog lamps. Much more versatile.
I'm considering upgrading to a new car, and wondered if folks have had any experience selling their car back to the dealer, as opposed to just trading it in. I'm looking at a different make of car, and prefer not to get robbed if I just trade in my current car, instead of selling it to a VW dealer.
Thanks!
Now... if only my other headlights would all burn out in the next 800 miles, and not wait until 50,001 k!
Although I also found that a new DRL bulb would cost $24 at the dealer; and I watched the mechanic install it and I think I could figure out how to do the other one. So even if that one doesn't make the warranty period, it won't be much of a setback, I think....
Anyway, thanks again.