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This time, a full section flew off and hit the front square-on and went under the truck. I heard the crash of what I thought was the headlights, fogs, etc....but nothing.
Pulled into the driveway and while my license plate cover was completely gone except for the screws, the WAAG Front Runner and StonGard prevented any damage to the truck! Amazing. I feel even the bumper itself being a bit loose helped. The Gaurd took the brunt of the hit, but the rubber scrapes and residue came right off. The area of the grill with the Bow-Tie Emblem and even the bumper that have been covered with the StonGard came clean with just plain car wax.
Thankfully no one else seemed to get hit and I'm even glad it was me vs. a small car that would surely have been damaged or the driver badly scared. I didn't get afraid or react abruptly, as it happened so fast, but the sound was loud as heck.
Gotta run back to other things...but hope to be reading here more often. I'll update some things on my site shortly too.
tim lauro
You will no doubt improve the overall sound by upgrading the rears. I have done that on other vehicles. But for me, I concluded that it wasn't really worth the money as I bias the fronts and leave the back ones for "rear fill" and inputs for my 10" sub/amp.
I still think there is alot of room for improvement on the fronts, for $200 you can get a nice set....if you liked the improvement in the rears you'll love upgraded speakers in the front! Good luck.
GAM
I bet they'd find them quick if they were hanging off when out on some trail!
1) Under the filter there was a plastic fastener that holds the wheel well liner on that was setting on top of one of the trans cooling lines. You could see how it had been rubbing on the line. Just clip the end of the faster to fix this one.
2) With the hood closed, there was alot of up and down play. I gradually adjusted the stops on the right and left side up a half turn at a time until the play was almost completely gone. And, used some white lithium grease on the latch.
No more squeaks! Hope this helps.
I have actually noticed this on mine as well. Almost as if you get a double image at the top and bottom third of the mirror. One image appears to be purple and the other green.
I have a list of other minor issues to have resolved at the next oil change and if I find out anything, I will be ure to post here.
JAW
There are six ways you can attempt to put the center cap on (wheels are six spoke) and only one way that is correct. Cap has raised tabs that must fit into groove in wheel. Don't know this but would bet the other wheels are designed the same way. So, OWNER BEWARE!
Guess we'll never know for sure what is the right way unless GMDrone comes back and tells us how the engineer designed it. I may change mine back just to see if my cleaner window theory is correct. Otherwise, who cares???
The SIL-GLYDE leaves a clear waterproof film on the rubber. For those of you who are having hood stop problems, this product will solve your problem.
So far, my Envoy (almost 7k) is still quiet so I haven't used the stuff on it.
It comes in a small 1.5oz tube and is similar to vaseline in consistency - a little thicker I think.
billg7 "Honda Odyssey" Feb 8, 2001 7:27pm
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Can someone tell me if I read the Chevy Trailblazer website incorrectly. According to the specs you can only get the rear AC vents and controls if you get the EXT model? My 2002 LS has them..makes me glad I bought my 2002. What is Chevy thinking?
Glad you like your new vehicle. After hearing that a lot of folks are only getting ~$21K for their Bravadas, I don't feel so bad about my TrailBlazer LTZ trade-in allowance now. The Lexus dealership gave me $24,300.00 for it, but I only paid $29,500.00 for it brand new. It had everything except the DVD player and sunroof on it. Bright, Victory Red with the factory running boards installed. I owned it for 16 months and the vehicle had 15,600 miles on it the day I traded it in.
Like yourself, I had some serious concerns about long term reliability. After my transmission failed at 9,000 miles of operation, and the engine began to knock pretty badly, I started to become more and more concerned about things. Also, the transmission was beginning to show signs of slipping again during the morning commute to work--a couple of months after it had been rebuilt. After I had the 'fan noise' problem
addressed, the vehicle had a tendency to sputter
and die out at certain times when you first
started it up. It idled too low. Didn't do it
all of the time though. Never took it back for
this particular problem.
All in all, I still prefer GM's SUVs over both
Ford and Chrysler's. Well, at least when it comes to styling. I believe that the triplets are the best-looking SUVs on the market today. Saw a blue and silver TrailBlazer on the way to a movie with my girlfriend last night and it looked very sharp!
They do ride really, really nice too. I really and
truly can't compare the quality of GM's SUVs to
that of Ford and Chrysler's, because I've never
owned one of their products.
Once again, congratulations on your new Subaru
purchase!
Take care.
Ron M.
It begins at about 2600 and lasts to 2900ish RPM
Does not happen all the time but often enough to be of interest.
Anyone else notice this??
A Concern or simply a harmonic of the engine?
BTW: The ability to accelerate this monster is impressive.
I've never owned a Subaru, but I'm sure their very nice since GM owns 20% of them. According to GM's website they have a 20% stake in Fuji Industries which is the parent of Subaru.
Also just to be fair regarding resale value, it sounds like you over paid for your Bravada. It is extremely rare to make out well trading in a one year old vehicle.
For example, I paid $28,900 (including Olds loyalty discount) for my Bravada (list $35,212).
If I received $23K for mine,(11K on the odometer) that would be about a $5,900 hit. When you take the mileage adjustment into consideration 36.5 cent per mile (about $4K), I would only lose $2k on trade in. Not bad....Of course why would I worry about anything when it is still under warranty? That was another of the great advantages of the Olds (standard 5 year/60K). By then anything major would be resolved, percieved or otherwise.
Doug
BTW, hit 7K miles on a 04/02 Envoy XL SLT and so far I'm quite pleased with it.
from gmpartsdirect and sure enough, the fronts don't fit. The problem isn't necessarily the running boards, but the strip of plastic trim just below the doors seems to not be letting it fit up flush. Has anyone found a correct part number yet, or an alternative to the GM guards?
Thanks for any info and I think this board is excellent!
The service department could not find any problems with my Envoy either.
I'd like to know of other's who have had this problem and if the problem was ever resolved.
Any help that you all can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance...
Dee
Also LH(Driver Side) and RH(Pass.Side) is stamped on the bottom of the rails themselves. GM just dicked it at the factory.
http://www.sendpix.com/albums/021007/1552190000003447fc5cfe7c961ea0/
dealership and took one of the front splash guards with me. It fit fine on a "short" Trailblazer, even with the factory running boards. Evidently, it's the EXT's that have a wider plastic trim piece under the doors at the front wheel well. If anyone has an EXT with the GM front splash guards, please post the part numbers.
GM should get the bugs out on their own time...not me the consumer.
I will now kick over the bucket...
Disgusted triplet owners UNITE! This seems like a
great class action suit to me. Are there any lawyers out there?
I feel nice and warm and secure in my new Subaru Outback .
Subaru is the king of AWD...SmartTrac sucks.
One of the mechanics mentioned that some of the Buick's, Cadillac's, and GMC's have the same problem. Does the problem that you have seem to happen when you take your foot off of the gas; for instance, when you slow down to make a turn or at a stoplight? Does your gas mileage drop? Does you RPM's slowly decrease right before it stalls? I would like to know how similar this is to what I am experiencing. We are tired of all the hassle. I think we are going to trade it in for a Nissan Pathfinder instead of an Envoy.
It does appear ALL current production is backwords of the picture nuyorkah posted. Could be the picture is an older one where they were still molding arrows and LH, RH on the rails.
I think GM decided the current method is best and that is why it is the only way they are coming. True, I may be thinking to highly of GM.
Anyway, as one who has had them on both ways, I don't think it makes much difference. Just consider myself lucky it is the only thing I can try to complain about on my Envoy since I'm not having any of the other problems being posted here.
This is the second time it happened. The first time it had stopped raining about 15 min before it happened. This time it happened about 10 min after I left the carwash so on the surface it appears that water or condensation may be causing the problem.
The odd thing is that all the warning lights came on and in the Information Display it read "Service Brake System" both times. The braking system has always appeared to work just fine.
My problem is I can't find out how to find my "Zone Rep." I've looked all over but can find nothing. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
--Soon to be [hopefully] former Bravada owner-Michael
Funny how both employ similar technology! If you have the 4EAT trans, You're using the electrically engaged multi-plate wet clutch system with a limited slip rear diff, which is almost identical to Smarttrak except that the Outback is front biased vs. rear and uses an LSD vs a locker! I know you were unhappy with your Bravada because of it's problems, but come on... no need to belittle the Bravada's capabilities just to make you feel better about getting something else! The Outback is probably just as capable as the Bravada in the AWD department, but I definitely wouldn't say it's better.
Haven't seen any references to stalling on the highway lately on this board. If I recall correctly, some were solved by finding a loose ground wire on some module somewhere on the vehicle's serial data network. Those posts should be somewhere in the past 8000 messages.
Build date 6/01, 12K miles, no other major problems. Guess it was a good week at the factory. Still enjoying my truck.
-mike
penny14 Apr 2, 2002 1:06pm
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Allen
An unrelated note - One thing Subaru better have fixed or needs to fix is their weak air conditioners!
No premature failures either. As far as snow, much of it depends on tire size. The Bravada has big tires that offset some of it's weight advantage. It's not much better than my Outback was. Of course if there is a lot of snow, the Bravada will win due to its' overall higher ground clearance.
GAM
I think this is correct?
you can see pictures on my website
http://www.trailblazer.homestead.com/
just click on the EGR window vent link and you can see
how mine came from the factory
And as far as the 03' Yukon, great choice. There's a reason why this past spring we chose to buy an Avalanche over an Envoy or Trailblazer. Size and build quality. Those were two issues with our 300M, and we weren't about to trade for another trouble-prone rattle-trap. The Av has been terrific in 6 months without a single problem and still as tight as day one.
I'm not saying all triplets are bad, it's just that they have a very high problem rate. Not everyone enjoys having weekly visits for "computer upgrades", to have pieces re-attaches, rattles & squeaks taken care of, etc., etc.. If you like yours, fine. If you don't, do whatever you can to get out of it like mfullmer hopes to do.
There's no reason to be putting up with so much crap on a $35k+ SUV! Look more into the Yukon, it's a much nicer choice in my view!
I bet ross1962 is right - helps keep our trucks on the ground when we hit 300 mph.
and probably some mistakes were made. I would go with the direction that made the lease amount of wind noise, not by the arrows.
I'll keep that in mind! ;-)
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
thanks to those who suggested I simply had a dead battery when my Bravada wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. That was the problem - hard to believe for a year and a half old car. Must have been a battery from the above-mentioned defective batch. I looked at my crossbars - my truck is 4/01 build date - on mine, back of crossbars is lower than front, tie-down holes are in front, and this is correct per the arrow under the latch on each side. I haven't noticed a wind noise problem from the rack, anyway. I do get a lot from the drivers front door area. Today I put on some of the dielectric grease that is recommended in the manual, and it didn't seem to make a difference. Did anyone ever find out for sure if that piece of insulation that you can see when the front doors are open is supposed to be glued in airtight? Mine are just kind of sitting there, and I can see around them to the front of the truck. I'm thinking of stopping by the body shop to have those looked at, as well as the driver's side door, which seems to rattle around in the catch area when going over very rough bumps - I see the catch already has several spacers on it, maybe it needs more or fewer of them. Thanks to all those who have posted the tsb numbers, it makes it so easy at the dealer (already used them for sagging headliner, license frame gasket, pcm reprogramming for delayed shifting, LF heater duct, wandering mirrors,bumper brackets, etc.)
From my research, this is a EVAP test failure.
The Evaporative Emmissions control system (part of the PCM) does a diagnotic test on startup. After certain conditions are met it actually draws vaccum on the fuel tank and then checks to see if the vaccum remains. If the vaccum does not remain, it sets the code you have mentioned.
Check the fuel cap... It could be as simple as that.
If it is not the fuel cap, it is a problem with the EVAP system and you should take it to a dealer soon.
I hope this helps.
Walter (gator)
Thanks again-