Chrysler 300M

herrmdogg · June 2001

As far as the 20's go, I have had 0 problems with rims bending and I'm running a 245-35-20 Toyo Proxes T1-S. I even have an air suspension and that side to side comes down pretty fast as well as when I park it on dogleg and bring it back down. Of course I know where every pothole in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana are and I avoid them. It's all a matter of wear and tear, hittin those holes and the strength of the rim you go with. How much you want for those 20's if you're gonna sell them? I could always use an extra set of 20's.

avalanche165 · June 2001

lol, i got those 20s for a good price, already sold'em tho friend, sry. i made 500 bucks on'em. good stuff. i think i might just get a set of 20's, and a set of 18's. cuz my car is still my daily driver, i love drivin it too much to give it up to my garage. and i'm all about the speed, something we don't do on 20's. i think i will get two sets of rims, 18's only cost a grand, 1/3 the price of 20's. ohyea, and herm, have u seen those new X20 rims? they're real rare, but awesome, only 3 models....

avalanche165 · June 2001

for anyone looking for replacement bulbs, here are all the bulbs in our car...

http://www.sylvania.com/bin/carApp/carApp_ver2.pl?flag=model_quals&make=&make= Chrysler&year=&year=1999&model=300M&x=15&y=2#12

dumb 115 word thing, no space between the = and Chrysler

bigmike5 · June 2001

Phases78--I did the chrome thing this weekend with mixed results. It looks pretty good but I was wondering how you dealt with the cross member that intersected the bottom of the wings emblem. I just got up to it as close as I could from both side but this left about a 1" space in the dead center. I still have a lot of the stuff left so I could go again if I had an idea of how you did this without cutting my hand off with the exacto. I did get knicked a few places. Also, I would like to do the 3 cross members below the bumper but they appear to be thicker and have more support spaces which would have to be cut off the bottom of the chrome strip and even then it does not look like it will be a good fit. Any thoughts on this. And do you recall what the number was of the picture you posted of the grill. I did not copy it down, but I would like to look at it again. Having done this I now know why it took you 3 hours to do it.

Roger--Shirts rec'd on Friday. They look great. Wife still thinks I have lost it.

fuzzywuzzy · June 2001

The 18's seem a good choice for daily use. I notice no ride difference with my 18's. Even the little extra weight doesn't seem to affect anything.

scotian · June 2001

"Under hood light
Part number = 105"

Why is this listed? Do new Ms have lights under the hood? This makes me suspicious.

mboomgarden1 · June 2001

With a couple thousand miles under my belt on my M and the addition of a Borla exhaust, I've decided it's time to think about reducing the sound level at highway speeds. First, the Borla sounds great and seems to increase performance, but I get an unwelcome booming resonance at 2100 - 2600 rpm. It goes away at 2600 rpm, but since that puts me at 85 mph plus, my license may not be able to survive this strategy. Any experience or suggestions?

Also, I'd like to bring the noise level down a bit, especially the tire whine/rumble. I'm considering the Ziebart Sound Barrier coating. Has anyone found this effective? Any other steps that would help without spending loads of money? Thanks.

300mlover · June 2001

Contact borla. This is a known problem with the Borla sytem. They have some kind of resonator/baffle or something that slips inside the pipe to reduce this noise. I have this sytem also and I rather enjoy the sound! It took me about 10k to finally get used to it. And I agree it improves performance noticabley

tnsc_300m · June 2001

All -Thanks for all the feedback on the problem I had with the torx screws on the spark plug change.
Will try the vise grips and hammering the bit in.
I'm just a little worried about when I reinstall
after changing the plugs if I'll be able to get the things retightened before they become useless.

kpm61-the ice packs were just icecubes in a ziploc baggie so when the one melted the water just ran off or evaporated. none of the plastic melted onto anything. no damage at all. we had already tried all the bolts before we went with that, thinking that the heat had caused them to expand to tight.

Trying again later after everything had cooled off made little difference, so we retightened everything, backed up and punted :-)

Has anyone checked into what it would take to replace these screws? If they're stripped out I want to replace them but am fraid what DC will want for these. probably tell me the coil on plug assembly will have to be replaced since the screws are captive in the assembly.

Thoughts, ideas?

Haven't checked w/ my dealer yet. Geez, every time I go to my 5* some kid comes out and wants me to buy a PT cruiser, and when I call I'm on hold for at least 10 min.

tnsc_300m

fuzzywuzzy · June 2001

Not sure. I heard 2 different things from my dealer. first was the screws are user replacable, the second was that the screws are designed to screw in, but not out, meaning you cannot get the screw out of the coil pack. Meaning you would have to replace the whole coil pack. Maybe ottwrkr can shed some light as to the truth.

tnsc_300m · June 2001

WOW !!! Thanks to the many who have complimented the pics we took at the Teneesee 300M meet. We had a lot of fun taking them. There's been over 800 hits already!!! Here's the link to all the pics we took.

This album is the raw pics from the camera and 10 of the ones I previously posted which I edited a little for brightness, contrast and size and renamed.I wish the pic quality was a little better. I was using a borrowed Mavica I wasn't familiar with.Much later I learned where to change the pic quality/resolution settings. lessons learned.

I know there are many opinions on this so I don't want to start a religous war

just looking for some good advice...

What digital cameras are some of you using and is there a consensus on pic quality/ resolution settings, image file size, etc.. for taking pictures you are going to post on a board like here or on photopoint.com etc...

tnsc_300m

sugar300m · June 2001

Yous guys didn't hookup with Hermdogg? That would've been something. Pics do look great tho. I love to see all those M's side by side.

bigmike5 · June 2001

mboomgarden1-- I had the Ziebart sound barrier applied to my 99M and I was not that impressed with the sound difference. Is it worth maybe a 3 decibel reduction? I think the Badyears LS's, aside from their other problems, are a notoriously noisy tire. If you still have them on your car that is probably the base source of most of the road noise.

ajpiii · June 2001

Just got a call from the 5* reguarding my tranny staying in second... Sure enough, it was the engine speed sensor... Only $97, just under my $100 deductable for the Extended warranty... I actually thought I was going to get to use it for the first time... Glad it wasnt necessary...

Still waiting for my shirts

From all the good comments, I cant wait... Anyone know whats going on with that NJ meet ?

sdmike2 · June 2001

I use a Fuji Finepix 1400 set at 640x480 at "fine" resolution (no compression). Each image is about 160k and I get about 180 photos on a 32MB memory card. The camera is 1.3 megapixels, uses fast USB for download, and has a 3x optical and 2x digital zoom. I paid about $260. The print quality at 3x5 and 4x6 is outstanding at this level. When I want supercrisp photos printed at 5x7 or larger I use a larger image size setting. Here is a link to some outstanding information on digital cameras:

http://www.megapixel.net/html/issueindex.html

Here are a couple of samples. First is a picture of my clock face shot using the camera's macro mode, and the second is a standard shot with no zoom.

tictac3 · June 2001

Any of you e-bay buyers receive your Infinity Basslink subs yet? Like to know of any problems before I take the plunge.

rogor2k · June 2001

Congratulations Guys, glad you were able to put this together and make it happen. Sounds like you all had a great time and made some new friends in the process. Very Cool, wish I could have been there. Great pics, we'll get some on the web site.

I'd love to see more members doing this. Just look in the member directory on the Clob web site and see if there's anyone near you, then get together and hang out for a while and swap stories. I'm the Lone Ranger out here in WA, not another member even close. I'd live to have some members nearby, but it'll happen as we get bigger. Keep those impromptu meets coming.

tnsc_300m · June 2001

sdmike- thanks for the link and the pics!
Man, that's what I'm talking about! great quality!
and not an Arm & Leg. The pics of Big Red are Awesome. Love what you've done with the Duals, Spoiler and Tint.

Rogor2K- Got Shirts Today they're fanatastic!!!
Yeah, we had a great time I highly recommend it.
Phases lives in the same town as my Sis & Bro in-law so we'll hook up on his turf soon. If he's not in the field shooting old trucks with a cannon ;-) And Avalanche has connections nearby so this may happen again. We've talked a little about maybe hooking up at a NASCAR race in Bristol or Richmond, or nearby in Pigeon Forge when one of the many HotRod or Street rod organizations has a big meet there. Perhaps Up in DC, uh, that's Washington not DaimlerChrysler :-), for something cool. LOTS of Possibilites. Anyone nearby is welcome. Heck anyone nearby or not. Wish more of you could have been here!!!

All- ditto Roger's post! look some folks up email and schedule something that works for y'all.
and join the 300M Club!!!! so ya get get in touch, get a shirt and get together.

I know everyone going to Monterey & Detroit & NJ are going to have a fantastic time.
TNSC_300M

jona57 · June 2001

Hardy-

Who did you get your good trim kit from?

Maybe we ought to have a survey of everyone's experiences with these kits.

denverm · June 2001

http://www.steves-digicams.com/ is a great site with in-depth reviews on lots of cameras and printers. CNN.com now has an article on ten-best under $500, at http://www.cnn.com/2001/TECH/ptech/06/25/top.10.digital.cameras.idg/index.html

Once you pick out a model you're interested in, go to cnet.com to check for the lowest price online. I bought my Olympus c3040 from Centore.com and was pleased with their price and terms (they don't charge your credit card til your order ships, etc.)

sibe · June 2001

On the 2001s is the whole wheel wood? If it is I might consier getting rid of the leather half to
have a single material wheel. Or perhaps as my wife prefers to have it all leather - seems it wouldn't slip as much as the all wood. Ottowrkr any clues as to what lies beneath the leather?

Sibe

herrmdogg · June 2001

MAN I WISH I COULD HAVE GOT IN THE TENNESSEE PHOTOSHOOT =(. FUZZYWUZZY do you have any pics of your car on 18's? AVALANCHE I have seen the X20 rims and they are HOT $%!+. I love those rims and I probably would have bought them if I would have seen them earlier. I already had the Lexani's the first time I saw the X20's. You are correct though, you DO NOT want to be all about speed on 20's. Not only because of bending up rims, but also for example, my rims weigh in at 76 lbs each !!! Not a good spec for a racing wheel.

Also, I have replaced all bulbs expect the ones in the doors and sunvisor mirrors with those Xenon HID's. The difference is HUGE. I would recommend these bulbs to anyone. It looks so much more classy than those yellow halogens, especially when you open the door at night time and the interior glows that HID color or when you put your car in reverse and get that same HID glow. I give these bulbs the thumbs up. They are from Japan too by the way. I can't read anything on it except the voltage and wattage.

sdmike2 · June 2001

I haven't received mine yet, but I'll post when I do. The tracking information from UPS says it's due to arrive later this week.

sdmike2 · June 2001

Thanks on the compliments. The rear of BigRed is now missing the chrysler letters, but the 300M logo is still a little cooked. Haven't gotten time to remove it and re-apply it yet.

Oh, the other thing you should look at with the digicams is the speed. My Fuji is MUCH faster than my buddy's Kodak when it comes to taking the shot and being ready for the next one. It's a source of great frustration to him to press the button and have the picture taken a full second or more later....then waiting another 5 seconds before he can take another picture. Also, another good place to search for good prices is:

http://www.pricewatch.com

Beware of inflated shipping costs if you buy from any on-line store.

scotian · June 2001

Where did you get your Xenon HID bulbs from? I don't think you've mentioned the store or website yet. After realizing just how yellow all of the bulbs are, I think I'll get some. Xenon-filled 194 bulbs do in fact exist?

herrmdogg · June 2001

If you are interested in getting the Xenon HID's for your high and low beam's, contact ebay@midnightmoose.com. For all other bulbs contact xenonempire@aol.com.

scotian · June 2001

Witness the horror:

http://www.realrod.com/product_photos/ck6a_licenseplate_big.jpg

scotian · June 2001

Thanks -- I'll drop a couple emails.

russklass · June 2001

Please e-mail me at RussKlass@aol.com so I can keep you updated on our agenda for the dream cruise.

sirharper · June 2001

I am very interested in adding xenon to my M...please let me know how it gos (or went)!

300michael · June 2001

What year M do you have? I have done the sound proofing (elastromeric, foam, and spray) If you have a 2000+, they are already quieter, but if you have a 99 you can get some big sound improvements. I have some of what I did on my web page. go to the club site and look it up.

300michael · June 2001

I love the hight resolution 1600X1200, but wish it had a optical zoom instead of digital. It sure beats my old 640X480 Polaroid. Plus I can still use my old smart media memory cards. Now I just have to retake all of my old M pictures over again. Getting 8X10 glossies sure is nice.

300michael · June 2001

I notice when I go to Scottsdale I see a few 300M's there a day. So far I have given a few sheets worth of (club) cards out and not seeing any one on the edmends site. Hello! are you out there?

300mlover · June 2001

Has anyone got a quote for the install yet? I got a couple today. One for $95 labor and parts. Another for $55 labor plus parts of $75. The guy with the $95 install said we shouldn't tap into the speaker line outputs from the factory Amp. He claims this will draw power (sound)from the speakers. He is going to run a line all the way to the head unit and attach some where up there. I won't not for sure till Thursday when I get it installed. Also he

silverbullet4 · June 2001

The $95 install guy has got it wrong. The powered subwoofer has a fairly high impedence at its input and should not cause any significant power loss to the existing rear speakers if tapped into the speaker wires. Others on this board have used that approach successfully. If you were hooking up raw speakers with no amp, then his concern would be valid. Good luck!

sdmike2 · June 2001

Ask that thief what you get in parts for $75! The sub comes with it's own special mounting brackets and if I remember correctly it comes with wire. Even if it doesn't come with wire you're only looking at 2 feet from the amp to the sub in the trunk and maybe 10 feet for power. That must be mighty expensive wire! My local installer quoted me $50 plus any extra labor for boring holes in the rear seat panels (if I want to do that). My guess is that he wants to sell you a $15 wiring harness for $50.

-M

achance · June 2001

Glad I found this site! I have a Candy Apple Red/Agate '99, bought new in a weak moment - stock except for a K&N and a Borla. 18K on Juneau, Alaska's bad roads and worse weather. No real complaints! The LS's drift right or left, depending on when I last rotated them. A rattle or two in the dash, and - something most of you probably don't deal with - the mirrors get water in the bottom of them and then freeze up, a pain! Great car, and I'm glad to find some other 300 lovers.

dkrhardy · June 2001

dkrhardy here. I bought the wood kit from Dr. Vinyl. They had the best kits for Intrepid R/T, others had 15 to 18 piece kits, he had them as high as 22 pieces. It included a trim piece to fit onto the OTIS that many are adding to their Intrepid R/Ts. It is not a factory option for us you know! Mine is the OTIC from the top 300M trim, so I had to "slightly" modify the wood trim to fit that part so it was no fault of Dr. Vinyl's.

scotian · June 2001

Drill holes:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=9976873&p=47449433&f=0

sdmike2 · June 2001

I spent a year working in Juneau. Beautiful small city, especially when you head north along the water.

fuzzywuzzy · June 2001

Pics are large so I will post the links:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1280600&a=9485515&p=44752684&Sequence=0&res=high

fuzzywuzzy · June 2001

Here's another:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1280600&a=9485515&p=44752688&Sequence=0&res=high

fuzzywuzzy · June 2001

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1280600&a=9485515

mboomgarden1 · June 2001

Michael--I checked out your site for ideas. Looks like you did a very thorough job. My M is a nearly new 2001 model, so my baseline is somewhat ahead of where you started. I didn't find the road noise to be objectionable until I added the Borla and went for a 400 mile drive on winter-ravaged Illinois/Wisconsin roads. I've contacted Borla to check on their mod to cut down on the 2400 rpm resonance and decided to go with the Ziebart sound barrier treatment. I'm going to check out the trunk compartment also, to see if the addition of Dynomat (or something similar) might be useful, then will start moving into the passenger compartment if I'm still suffering auditory distress.

I should point out that the noise isn't horrific; it's just more than what I'd prefer. The exhaust rumble is a mixed bag; I like it around town, but it wore on me a little bit after six hours on the road. The exhaust resonance went away completely once I was at 85 mph, but that's a strategy I can't rely on if I want to retain my license (the car drives beautifully at supra-legal speeds, though, doesn't it?).

Do you have any idea what Chrysler did to enhance noise reduction in 2000/2001? If I can figure out where they've already concentrated some effort, I can work on the other areas first.

Thanks for your input.

-Mike

rogor2k · June 2001

Welcome to the Group. Also check out the 300M Enthusiasts Club at http://www.300mclub.org. Many of the folks who post here are Club members also. We have three 300M Club meets scheduled for this summer. We probably won't have any meets in Alaska for a while, but, hey, it could happen. We have a lot of good links and info on the site.

I would probably be your closest neighbor (in Seattle). I have to take that Inside Passage cruise out of Seattle one day soon. Alaska is one of three states I have never visited.

russklass · June 2001

I received my 3 club shirts yesterday! (must be the distance from Seattle to Buffalo)
They fit well, and look very nice. I think my favorite is the white with contrasting collar.
I have a different color for every day of the Detroit Dream Cruise!
Thanks Roger and sdmike2 for all your work in making the shirts possible.

sdmike2 · June 2001

My pleasure, Russ. You may have been delayed because some shirts were left out of the order initially. Or it could be that Roger's carrier pidgeon had trouble with the 2,500 miles.

Now time for a commercial.

We've been extremely lucky in finding a company that not only custom embroiders shirts but also MAKES the darned things. Therefore the club is able to offer high quality embroidered shirts for half of what you'd pay at JC Penny's for a non-embroidered polo! Anyone in the club should take advantage of this great deal. For more information visit www.300mclub.org.
-M

sdmike2 · June 2001

Since my mileage has been marginal I thought maybe I had a tire pressure issue. I checked all my tires and they seemed to be around 32 or 32.5 lbs. I figured a little more pressure wouldn't hurt (the tire max is 44), so I put 38 in each one. What a mistake! Not only was the ride a bit rougher (expected) but the car seemed less stable and responsive (unexpected!). It felt like it was darting around in response to bump and steering commands rather than hugging the road ('01 PHG). I though I was imagining things so I left the tires at 38 until this morning, but I noticed the same thing on the way to work. I'm going out at lunch to let some air back out.

Another thing...where is the sensor that tells the automatic headlights that it's light or dark out? If you remember, last week in bright sunshine my lights came on and wouldn't turn off until I turned the key off and back on. Today when I parked at work and put my sunscreens in the front window my lights came on again. I tried shutting the car off and back on but no luck. When I removed the shades and turned the car off/on the lights stayed off. Is the sensor on the top of the dash where the flashing red light for the alarm is?

-M

300mlover · June 2001

Thanks for the info-geeze I love this board! Does anyone else have any input on this Infinity Basslink install? I love going in armed with information. I thought I remembered seeing a post that somebody already installed the Infinity or something like it, but I can't find it. Anybody?

Thank You

rogor2k · June 2001

I think most of us run 34 to 35 psi. It's a good compromise. The ride is still good but the tires wear better and handling is better. Probably doesn't hurt mpg either.

I believe the sensor is in the little pod on the forward part of the dash, the one that flashes when your alarm is armed.

Chrysler 300M

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