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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • james1982james1982 Member Posts: 73
    Yeah, it sounds like your engine is lugging (due to being in too low of a gear when coming out of coasting).

    Do you have a true manual transmission? If so, it's a quick fix - make sure you match the gear you shift into with the speed you're coasting. That will avoid lugging the engine. Also, make sure you don't ride your clutch.

    If you have an automatic transmission, are you putting the car in neutral when you’re coasting then dropping it back into "Drive" when you need to accelerate? If you’re doing that, I would recommend stopping. That puts a lot of strain on your engine.

    If you are using the shiftronic faux-manual transmission, you may not be shifting properly. This, too, will cause lugging of the engine if not done properly. If you’re coasting, I’m guessing you’re on the highway. If so, you should probably just put the car in “Drive” and skip the faux-manual in the highway. You’re not saving any gas when driving at highway speed using the faux-manual. Furthermore, lugging the engine at highway speed will cause a lot of strain on your transmission and that will cause major problems down the road.

    The dealer may not have noticed the lugging because they didn’t drive it using the faux-manual like you do, and they just put it in “Drive”.

    Personally, I think the faux-manual can be beneficial in the city, but you might want to stick to “Drive” on the highway (assuming you’re using it on the highway).
  • woodchuck4woodchuck4 Member Posts: 7
    The manual calls for fuel filter replacement at 38k. But where is it and how do you change it. Every parts store I called said the filter is NON servicable. What is the scoop here? Does it need to be replaced or not?
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    It is in the Fuel Tank with the Fuel Pump. Great design!.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    I'm waiting to replace it on my 06 model. 38K miles seems crazy low to replace a fuel filter filter. Many car never need a fuel filter replacement. I've got 58K now and all it still fine. Will I ever replace it? Sure, but maybe as part of a large service like when I have tranny fluid changed or something at closer to 80-90K miles.
  • jayessjayess Member Posts: 59
    I asked my service writer about this some time ago, have an 07 with just shy of 40K miles. He said 'we don't bother with that' - it is in the gas tank and apparently accessible by removing the rear seat and a few other things
  • james1982james1982 Member Posts: 73
    A fuel filter needs to be replaced from time to time to prevent debris from getting sucked into your engine. Just think about all the dirt particles that are in the underground tank at your gas station. That crud gets sucked into your gas tank when you fill up. If that stuff gets into your engine, it can cause major damage.

    The fuel filter is very important. However, the time to change it has varied from different cars I have owned. When I was a teenager, I had a '95 Ford Escort which advised changing it every 50k. More recently, I had a '95 Honda Accord which advised changing it every 35k. I'm not sure why there is a large difference in the length of time.

    Bottom line: you need to change it. When you change it is up to you. Just know that the longer you go, the more of a gamble it is.
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    I have had Fords with the fuel filter external to the tank (Where it belongs) at 100,000 miles. I would not mind changing the filter every 35,000 miles if it was on the frame rail but in the fuel tank it is costly and could be dangerous. You do not get the tank sealed back-up there could be fuel leakage. Poor design in my opinion.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    C'mon man, the symptom of a fuel filter that needs to be changed would be LACK of fuel getting to the engine not "dirt particles getting to the engine". Think about it, a filter that is clogging does not let MORE stuff through.
  • bernardmarxbernardmarx Member Posts: 6
    My 1990 Toyota truck has never had the fuel filter replaced and it runs fine. I think the fuel moves around inside the tank and washes the crud off the filter so the crud stays in the tank.
  • nmc79nmc79 Member Posts: 1
    Hi! New here! Never had a single issue with my 04 Sonata until this May. The car just shut off while driving - had it towed to a repair shop - they replaced the crank shaft sensor, and the timing belt (which had not broken, but was showing some wear. After getting it back, the car had a rough idle, and ended up shutting off again while driving. Brought it back - they replaced the crank sensor again (said it was faulty) and the ac belt as well. Has had a rough idle since - and is now shutting off again while driving! The weird thing is, if you disconnect the battery for a few minutes, the car will then run again. Also, replaced spark plugs and coils. Going to the dealership Friday, but wondering if anyone else has experienced this?
  • espo35espo35 Member Posts: 144
    Is your car a 4 cylinder?
  • emadrid007emadrid007 Member Posts: 2
    I recently took my car to the dealer for a check engine light (p0016) I was told that the problem was the "oil drive actuator". What is an "oil drive actuator"? I denied service at the time cause it was $500+ I don't have that kind of money. So about a week later I called the dealers parts dept. I asked to buy the "oil drive actuator" part from them to potentially fix the problem myself. The rep. didn't even know what an "oil drive actuator" is. Is this an actual part? or was I being taken for a ride?
  • emadrid007emadrid007 Member Posts: 2
    its a 2006 sonata gls v6
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    oil control valve for the CVVT (continuously variable valve timing).

    "GENERAL DESCRIPTION
    The CVVT (Continuously Variable Valve Timing) system is installed to the chain sprocket of the exhaust camshaft. There is no variation in valve timing of the exhaust cam because the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt. The timing of the intake cam is varied by the relative operation the CVVT vane to the housing. The CVVT controller regulates the intake camshaft angle using oil pressure through the OCV(Oil Control Valve). As result, the relative position between the camshaft and the crankshaft becomes optimal, and the engine torque improves, fuel economy improves, exhaust emissions decrease by changing the valve open/close timing of the intake camshaft.

    DTC DESCRIPTION
    This diagnosis checks the camshaft position plausibility whether the expected range plus some margin is not violated that might be caused by a wrong engine repair, or a chain/belt misalignment. DTC P0016 is set when actual camshaft position is too much retarded or advanced than full retard position or full advance position. To continue the adjustment in such case could lead to a damage of the engine by hitting the valves with the piston."
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    Would this be covered by the power train warranty?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would think so, but that's a tricky question actually, so I'm going to say "I don't know". Seems to me it is an "internal" engine part, unlike, say, an alternator.
  • aalsherriaalsherri Member Posts: 68
    Is it difficult for me to change the trans oil of I4 engine myself or I need to take it to the dealer for service? Do I need other than Hyundai trans oil to do the job? I heard that some vehicles have trans oil filter.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    Everything I've read says that Hyundais are very sensitive to the type of tranny fluid...using the wrong one can ruin your transmission and it will NOT be covered by warranty. Check your owner manual or you can see a version of your owner manual at "www.hyundaiusa.com".
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    I have my alarm go off about once a month as I exit the car. I can not think of what causes this. It must have something to do with the unlocking of the door or opening the door while the key is still in or just coming out. What does the alarm system look for to determine the car is beeing broken into? I would suspect opening the door with out unlocking it with the key or remote but the doors unlock automatically, Pressing the remote unlock seems to stop it the last time . Placing the key back in to the iqnition does not stop it and the car can not be started when the alarm is sounding. I assume there is a combination of events i perform that make it happen.
  • billwardbillward Member Posts: 154
    Could also be a faulty remote, since the alarm button is on the back of the remote. I've set it off (once) putting the remote in my pocket, as well, when one of my keys pressed the alarm button.
  • ayeuayeu Member Posts: 41
    On top of the brake problems I've written about elsewhere, my '07 Sonata now has decided that the head/parking lights won't turn off. They used to stay on until the key was removed but now they just stay on, period - key out, door opened and closed, etc. I have to start the engine and play with the switch to get them to turn off. Now the dome light also won't shut off. It's supposed to stay on for about 30 seconds but it sometimes just stays on. Of course, this happened at 63,000 miles, 3,000 out of warranty. Dealer charged me $90 to troubleshoot then tell me it's a control module which costs $500 plus labor. By the way, the suspension noises everyone writes about are there, too. My car has more creaks and groans than a haunted house. I have bought my last Hyundai. I'll presume that Kias have the same problems.
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    Could be the button like you said. It is hard to say since you do not pay attention until the alarm goes off then it is to late. I would not think I would be holding the remote since I am taking the key out of the ignition.
  • jetsmxjetsmx Member Posts: 1
    This same problem has just happened to my 2006 Sonata it has 110,000 miles and I found the pulley setting down at the bottom. Was it as easy as replacing the pulley and how did they fix it?
  • vjyvjy Member Posts: 27
    I bumped into a SUV and my front bumper is slightly broken ( its broken like a semi circle) in my 2007 Sonata GLS. I would like to know if we can fix it with any mechanics or should I do it with the dealer. If so how much would the bumper cost.

    Can we do anything to fix it or do we need to replace it. Its just small ans I do not want to spend a lot, but if it costs less to repair it, I am willing to do it.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Take it to a body shop, they can tell you if the bumper can be repaired or not, and the cost of a repair vs. replacement. If it's just a crack, a repair might be the way to go. Another option to look at is have the body shop buy a bumper from a salvage place.
  • sinatra1sinatra1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Sonata that recently started dinging while I'm driving. It's the same sound it makes when you open the door and the key is still in the ignition. Anyone know what this is and if it's really expensive to take care of? thanks!
  • james1982james1982 Member Posts: 73
    It could just be a fuse going bad. Do you have any other electrical hiccups?
  • sinatra1sinatra1 Member Posts: 2
    the battery died about 3 weeks ago, it was the factory battery and about 6 years old so I just figured it was time for a new battery. had my mechanic run diagnostic test just in case and everything came back clear. now I've got that darn dingin! it's not constant, it takes me 20 minutes to get home from work and it will do it maybe 2 or 3 times during my commute for a few seconds each time. no lights coming on or anything else weird.
  • james1982james1982 Member Posts: 73
    sinatra1:

    Man, I have been looking high and low trying to find some answers for you. I did stumble across some people online (on another forum) who were talking about having some key-indicator problems when they used the second (valet) key. Are you using the valet key in the ignition, or the primary key?

    Also, I you mentioned you have an '04, but what is the trim level (GLS, Limited etc) and engine size?
  • kman55kman55 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Sonata and have replaced the left sunvisor twice and the right sunvisor once. I now have 62,000 miles on the car and have been advised that replacement this time will cost 85.00 as there is no warranty after 60,000 miles. I appealed the charge but Hyundai advised me that they will not accept responsibility for this TSB item. You would think after this many years they would have produced a fix to this problem.
  • kman55kman55 Member Posts: 2
    I also have owned many makes and models over the years and have never had an issue with a sunvisor. This is a new generation (2006) model which I bought new in 2006. Hyundai acknowledges the problem in a TSB but to date have not addressed a fix. That's the frustrating part !

    The visor will work fine for awhile and then freeze. Any attempts to move it up or down from that point on results in failure as the visor swings free and will not hold the up position. A frustrating point to me is that the entire unit has to be replaced each time it breaks.

    The right visor has only been replaced once and the left 3 times as it gets the most use. I wonder just how many 2006-2011 Hyundai owners are experiencing this as I am? It looks like a design flaw to me that Hyundai is slow to address.
  • azeradaveazeradave Member Posts: 42
    kman55

    I also, have had both sides of my 2007 Sonata visors replaced for the same reason. Luckily still under warranty. My dealer said this is a common problem?!
  • sonata01sonata01 Member Posts: 21
    Problem: twice in one day my car would not start??? Locked/Unlocked the car with the remote. After getting into the car, the key would not start the car, but their was a click or two (not the starter/battery), then the 4 way flashers came on. I did not violate the security system, but that's what appears happened. I locked the car with the remote, unlocked it again, then the car started; had to manually turn off flashers. Has anyone had a similar problem. I probably would have been better off it didn't start; unfortunate for me, but maybe a mechanic could diagnose the problem. Any ideas are welcomed.
  • jjg5jjg5 Member Posts: 2
    I am having a problem with my sonata. It is a 2003 Hyundai sonata. It takes longer to start and it turns normally it just takes long to start the engine unless it has been running for a little then there is no problem. The battery, starter, and alternator are all ok and I have no idea what it could be. any hints would be appreciated
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    How long does it take? 5 second or 30 seconds?
    If you turn the key to "on" wait 15 seconds then turn the key to start does it make a difference?
  • jjg5jjg5 Member Posts: 2
    it takes around 5 seconds and the waiting really does not make a difference.
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    My theory with the waiting would be fuel pressure builds up while the key is on before you try to start the engine.
    Have you had any service done (Spark plugs, Wires, air filter clean?). The car is 2003 so you should be getting close to the 100,000 mile mark.
    Have you tried a fuel system cleaner? May not do any good but will not hurt to try.
  • elfswifeelfswife Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Hyundai Sonata system is haywire. Had to jump a low battery this week. After it was restarted the lights inside and out seem to be activated by the passenger and back doors instead of the driver doors. Windows open with keys out and doors open. Anyone know how to reset this? We are now trying disconnecting battery for a bit.
  • cace2002cace2002 Member Posts: 7
    I just installed new OEM Input and Output Speed sensors on my 2000 Sonata GLS v6 and when I turn the key the car only cranks. :cry: So I cleaned off the lithium grease I sprayed to battery terminals to prevent the excess carbon build up that had been occurring. Still just cranks. Now I'm wondering if it was the LIQUID black tape I globed on to a few locations where I noticed that the existing insulation (black tape) did not cover the colored wires as they enter the plastic clip connections. I also globed some on what I recently found out to be the two Oxygen sensors (? located at the front of the manifold-just behind the radiator?). Any Help is appreciated. :sick:
    Carl
  • seaweed20seaweed20 Member Posts: 30
    edited March 2010
    I know this is information is available in the manual, however, I am no where close to it and wanted to see if anyone here knew it off hand. Plus, I can't find the service /owners manual online.

    My car is nearing its first year anniversary (end of this month) and has been through two regular services so far. My dealer recommended another scheduled service in the end of Feb but I have not yet taken the car in.

    Question is, as I have only clocked 5,000 miles in the one year, do I still need to get the car serviced at the end of one year, as recommended, or is it dependent on achieving a certain level of miles?

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why don't you check your fusible links (which usually, in most cars, run from the positive battery post along the inner fender). On many cars, there are more than one. The Autozone website might help you locate them if you can trace them by hand.

    I can't see as anything you did directly affected ignition or fuel pump---but hey, also check all your relevant fuses.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I asked my Hyundai dealer that question when I bought my first Hyundai 10 years ago. The service manager said, no, it's fine to base maintenance on miles vs. time. I put only about 7-8k miles a year on my car, so that's 2 oil changes a year. It's 6 years old and only 48k miles, so I haven't done the 60k/5 year service for example.

    In order to deny a warranty claim, Hyundai would need to prove that time was somehow a factor in the car breaking down, if you kept up the maintenance based on miles. Very hard to prove that, except maybe on rust damage!
  • cace2002cace2002 Member Posts: 7
    Never mind this post Question. I found that my battery
    needed replacement.. duh!

    Thanks for your help..
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    I can not ignore your original question. If it was the battery how did the car just crank and crank.? If the engine is cranking and cranking at a reasonable speed it can not be the battery.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    I'm due to change the coolant on my Sonata. Looks like I can use standard Prestone for the drain / fill. Any comments appreciated. Also doing a transmission drain and fill. I can probably find it but can someone indicate where the ATF drain plug is (driver or passenger side of engine)? I bought 5 quarts which I was told was sufficient by dealer but again input appreciated.
  • longhaullonghaul Member Posts: 17
    I keep my cars a long time (7-12 years) & just got a 2011. Any long time owners think purchasing an extra warranty to stack onto the 5 yr/60K to 10 yr/100K?

    Even if I decide I want a different car, I'd keep the 2011 for one of my kids.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    All of the "experts" and reports I've read indicate a better option is to take the $1000 you would spend on the extended warranty and put it into a bank account. If you need it, it's there - statistically, it's unlikely you will need to tap it and it will be there for the down payment on a future car.
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    My tire pressure sensor light goes on every couple months. When I check the tire pressure it in within 2 lbs of the recommended pressure. It is nice to know that the tires are slightly low but you can not tell if they are critically low. Is this normal operation? I would expect maybe 5 lbs low should turn the light on but not 2 lbs?

    The dealer said this in normal operation. With the light coming on so easily it is like the "Boy who cried wolf". I turned around today and went home after I hit a pothole and the light went on. Assuming the shock caused air to leak past the rim seal. Since the display does not tell you which sensor it is hard to determine which sensor/tire it is. I have believed it is the left front but the right front hit the pothole.
  • schumiaschumia Member Posts: 6
    Hi all,

    I'm in the market for a slightly used, 22,000 miles, 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS Auto, I went to test drive this vehicle and everything seems fine. I asked the seller to put the vehicle up on a hoist to see the underside of it, and took the photos, the photos are at
    http://picasaweb.google.com/schumia/2009HyundaiSonata?feat=directlink

    I discovered - rust. I live in Boston so shouldn't be surprised by rust. But can you give me some thoughts on whether is this a normal rust built-up on the underside of a 2009 Hyundai with only 22,000 miles?

    Jeff
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Typical rust from salted roads. Not a big problem but when it comes time to undo some of those bolts, it'll be a little more of a struggle. I wouldn't let it deter you from buying the car but you can use it as a bargaining chip if you wish.
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