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Do you have a true manual transmission? If so, it's a quick fix - make sure you match the gear you shift into with the speed you're coasting. That will avoid lugging the engine. Also, make sure you don't ride your clutch.
If you have an automatic transmission, are you putting the car in neutral when you’re coasting then dropping it back into "Drive" when you need to accelerate? If you’re doing that, I would recommend stopping. That puts a lot of strain on your engine.
If you are using the shiftronic faux-manual transmission, you may not be shifting properly. This, too, will cause lugging of the engine if not done properly. If you’re coasting, I’m guessing you’re on the highway. If so, you should probably just put the car in “Drive” and skip the faux-manual in the highway. You’re not saving any gas when driving at highway speed using the faux-manual. Furthermore, lugging the engine at highway speed will cause a lot of strain on your transmission and that will cause major problems down the road.
The dealer may not have noticed the lugging because they didn’t drive it using the faux-manual like you do, and they just put it in “Drive”.
Personally, I think the faux-manual can be beneficial in the city, but you might want to stick to “Drive” on the highway (assuming you’re using it on the highway).
The fuel filter is very important. However, the time to change it has varied from different cars I have owned. When I was a teenager, I had a '95 Ford Escort which advised changing it every 50k. More recently, I had a '95 Honda Accord which advised changing it every 35k. I'm not sure why there is a large difference in the length of time.
Bottom line: you need to change it. When you change it is up to you. Just know that the longer you go, the more of a gamble it is.
"GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The CVVT (Continuously Variable Valve Timing) system is installed to the chain sprocket of the exhaust camshaft. There is no variation in valve timing of the exhaust cam because the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt. The timing of the intake cam is varied by the relative operation the CVVT vane to the housing. The CVVT controller regulates the intake camshaft angle using oil pressure through the OCV(Oil Control Valve). As result, the relative position between the camshaft and the crankshaft becomes optimal, and the engine torque improves, fuel economy improves, exhaust emissions decrease by changing the valve open/close timing of the intake camshaft.
DTC DESCRIPTION
This diagnosis checks the camshaft position plausibility whether the expected range plus some margin is not violated that might be caused by a wrong engine repair, or a chain/belt misalignment. DTC P0016 is set when actual camshaft position is too much retarded or advanced than full retard position or full advance position. To continue the adjustment in such case could lead to a damage of the engine by hitting the valves with the piston."
Can we do anything to fix it or do we need to replace it. Its just small ans I do not want to spend a lot, but if it costs less to repair it, I am willing to do it.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Man, I have been looking high and low trying to find some answers for you. I did stumble across some people online (on another forum) who were talking about having some key-indicator problems when they used the second (valet) key. Are you using the valet key in the ignition, or the primary key?
Also, I you mentioned you have an '04, but what is the trim level (GLS, Limited etc) and engine size?
The visor will work fine for awhile and then freeze. Any attempts to move it up or down from that point on results in failure as the visor swings free and will not hold the up position. A frustrating point to me is that the entire unit has to be replaced each time it breaks.
The right visor has only been replaced once and the left 3 times as it gets the most use. I wonder just how many 2006-2011 Hyundai owners are experiencing this as I am? It looks like a design flaw to me that Hyundai is slow to address.
I also, have had both sides of my 2007 Sonata visors replaced for the same reason. Luckily still under warranty. My dealer said this is a common problem?!
If you turn the key to "on" wait 15 seconds then turn the key to start does it make a difference?
Have you had any service done (Spark plugs, Wires, air filter clean?). The car is 2003 so you should be getting close to the 100,000 mile mark.
Have you tried a fuel system cleaner? May not do any good but will not hurt to try.
Carl
My car is nearing its first year anniversary (end of this month) and has been through two regular services so far. My dealer recommended another scheduled service in the end of Feb but I have not yet taken the car in.
Question is, as I have only clocked 5,000 miles in the one year, do I still need to get the car serviced at the end of one year, as recommended, or is it dependent on achieving a certain level of miles?
Thanks
I can't see as anything you did directly affected ignition or fuel pump---but hey, also check all your relevant fuses.
In order to deny a warranty claim, Hyundai would need to prove that time was somehow a factor in the car breaking down, if you kept up the maintenance based on miles. Very hard to prove that, except maybe on rust damage!
needed replacement.. duh!
Thanks for your help..
Even if I decide I want a different car, I'd keep the 2011 for one of my kids.
The dealer said this in normal operation. With the light coming on so easily it is like the "Boy who cried wolf". I turned around today and went home after I hit a pothole and the light went on. Assuming the shock caused air to leak past the rim seal. Since the display does not tell you which sensor it is hard to determine which sensor/tire it is. I have believed it is the left front but the right front hit the pothole.
I'm in the market for a slightly used, 22,000 miles, 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS Auto, I went to test drive this vehicle and everything seems fine. I asked the seller to put the vehicle up on a hoist to see the underside of it, and took the photos, the photos are at
http://picasaweb.google.com/schumia/2009HyundaiSonata?feat=directlink
I discovered - rust. I live in Boston so shouldn't be surprised by rust. But can you give me some thoughts on whether is this a normal rust built-up on the underside of a 2009 Hyundai with only 22,000 miles?
Jeff