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Comments
1.) Do the parts you are replacing NEED to be genuine Hyundai parts? The dealers only use ‘genuine Hyundai’ parts, whereas another service shop won’t. So, if you need your oil changed, it won’t matter where you go – as long as the correct oil grade is used. However, if you are having transmission work done, it may be better to have Hyundai parts installed in your Hyundai by a Hyundai-trained technician.
2.) The other item you should consider is whether the work you need done should be performed by a Hyundai-trained technician. For example, just about anyone can change oil. There isn’t any specialized training needed to empty an oil pan, and replace a filter. However, if you are getting a tune-up, or transmission work, it may be better to have the work performed by someone who has been trained by the manufacture and who literally knows Hyundai vehicles inside and out.
I consider myself lucky – my dealer hasn’t charged me outrageous prices yet. My oil changes are $25. Not a bad deal. I’m sure a quick-lube place would do it for $20, but I’m willing to spend an extra $5 for the piece of mind of knowing it was done right.
However, when the day comes when I need to replace my breaks and the dealer charges $300 and a private shop only charges $200, I’ll probably go with the private shop. After all, I don’t need ‘genuine Hyundai’ breaks.
The Precision Tune guy said it would cost around $250 for him to do it.
My Keyfob won't doesn't work, even though the batteries are fine. It won't close or open the doors, nor does it open the trunk.
Is there some way to bypass the alarm to get the car to start?
Anyone have an idea what the source of this problem might be? I don't trust the dealership here too much and suspect they'll find it's the most expensive of all possible things. I can do most repair jobs once I know what to repair.
BTW, was this a used Sonata? The LX hasn't been sold since 2006 MY, I think.
I have a 2003 Sonata 4 dr, the remote WILL unlock the car but the remote will not lock the doors.. There is a click noise under the dash when the lock button on the remote is pressed but it won't lock the doors. The trunk lock works.
Suggestions?
You're best bet may be to just try some new batteries. You also might want to pop the remote open, and make sure the sensor is hitting flush with the button.
I have painted OEM alloys on my 2004 Elantra. I live in Minnesnowta. I expect the paint quality on them isn't any better than on the Sonata. Other than a few nicks nicks from curbs, they still look brand new.
P.S. Favre rocks!
I have some serious issues happening here...and we cannot figure this one out ! Ran car through various computers and no errors found..
I am at 100,000, I have already replaced water pump, timing belt, pistons, belts....maintenance always on time...
The problem is it is stalling or choking sounding as if it were a gas problem...the last time this happened it was the distributor cap....I replaced that 2yrs ago and just replaced it now...did a tune up, that area seems to spark up...I would even get electricuted every time I would get out of my car ! Well this time...the distributor did not help the situation at all ! It is still stalling...I have to literally press the gas barely an inch to move....and as I gain momentum on hwy it still runs gr8 but I cannot press the gas more than an inch because it will start stalling and gagging and choking and it will turn off at a red light...Backing out of my parking is a mission it will barely stay on...the pressure is good, I've had a gr8 mechanic for years, the rpms are right on the money, it has never overheated on me..if I keep in neutral then I can put the ac on....Seems if I put ac on it only makes it jerk even worse so I can only put on the ac when I'm already at 50mph...WE cannot figure out what is wrong with this damn thang! We have been puzzled...not gas filter! not head of engine ! spark plugs have been changed though my mechanic has noticed twice one spark plug is not burning correctly...the cylinders are good...it's still relatively clean in there...we checked the air flow, everything ! WE read on computer and no errors ! I just don't know what to do anymore!??? Clueless ! And I really need this car to work !! I am desperate for some answers and maybe I can send this info to my mechanic on monday...My only day off for the rest of the year !!! Please!! If anyone could help...I would greatly appreciate !!!???
WE are clueless ! The only last resort we have is actually opening that engine up in half again, which is time consuming and of course cost $$$....Can anyone tell me other options to try??? Before I go insane?? This is a mechanic's nightmare !
Thank You so much.......................... ^oo^
Yeah, what's up with that?
Other than this incident, I really was happy with this car and the dealership. I think that Hyundai's engine and everything else is good but they need to use better electrical connectors. One other example is on their air bag connector beneath both front seats. If one gets loose the air bag light illuminates resulting in about a $300.00 repair unless it's still warranted. Otherwise - you can (as I did) disconnect it, spray electrical contact cleaner on both sides and plug it back in securely and the light will go off. All because of undersized little brass connectors with inadequate surface area for proper conductivity.
think engine monitoring system detects transmission faults it may just say check
engine or may not say anything. The shiftronic system has a valve in it to help stop
high RPM surge on quick acceleration, sounds kind of dumb but it is how this
drivetrain is built not to race per say, f/ fuel economy also reason f/ 5 speed auto
w/o/d.It is equipped w/ manuel side for driver to control RPM for faster acceleration
if wanted control valve don't effect 1st and second gear in manual side also manual
side is geared lower (hi tech stuff). Manual side will actually help MPG if used for
city driving stop and go traffic, you up and down shift yourself or it will down shift on
it's own all the way down to 1st if stopped, you have to up shift in this mode it won't
on it's own till near red line. Do this in traffic it stops the auto side from kicking in
and out of gears all the time. Explains valve somewhat. Now back to possible fix
of problem if valve don't function properly for some reason I think it could cause a
mixed signal to engine and may bog engine down w/ to much throttle, all this is
linked together w/ new CVVT system. In the early sixties I was kind of a jackleg
mechanic you could still work on your own car, no electronic ignition or computer
aboard. But they were equipped w/ torque converters on auto trans and they were
known to bog you engine down at times, not exactly like todays system but cause
and effect sounds similar. I would get with your mechanic just to see what he has
to say about it. Todays technology is going faster than the repair people can keep
up with. If your dealership sells multiple brands of vehicles how can they keep up w/
every little detail of every car they service? The dealership I just bought this new car
from only sells Hyundai and the service manager answered some of my questions
in the blink of a eye, some I knew a little about some I didn't have a clue about. Such as this new version off the 3.3L v6 engine is designed and built at the factory
here in the USA were the Sonata is built along w/ the Santa Fee, only Hyundais
built in the USA as of now. The new High performance engine f/2009 inspired by the
the more sporty SE production plan has a timing CHAIN not a stupid belt that can
break at any time and will probably tear your engine up. No more 60k mile $400.
belt maintenance on this car. Now who's idea was it to put belts in there in the first
place. It wasn't Sonata for sure that was done before they were built, so how can
this fairly new car maker do all this and sell there vehicles for a lot less than their
competition and it has a much better warranty? The new Sonata has added over 1000 new parts in mid season upgrade at little or no price increase. To please their
customers wants. Like I say interesting!!!
Just wondering if everyone else sees this and if there could be a long term issue.
Thanks
The labor rate is good though---but what they're doing is jacking up the price of the parts to make up for it, seems to me. You can get Monroe shocks for $90 a PAIR.
I wouldn't doubt that a 2003 part is identical with a 2004 or 2005 part unless it's VERY specific to the car. However, that's not totally answering your question... of more import, 2005 MY Sonatas (while being a short model year) were available almost until the intro of the 2007 MY Sonatas; Hyundai normally has a signifcant number of cars at the end of each MY that last well into the sales period of the following MY (and during the 2005-2006 switch, it was even more so, as the 2006s were (at least some) manufactured in the US, and thus quickly brought from factory to dealership, while 2005 MY and previous were manufactured solely in Korea, necessitating the proverbial slow boat from China, er, Korea. In addition, it was an overlap of production that year (both being manufactured simulataineously for a month or so, depending on which plant), so new previous MY cars could show up during the current MY sales period. I believe that (though to a lesser extent) until the current dearth of 2009s caused by CARS, that was very common for Hyundai... and as such, the car could easily be a 2003 that was purchased "late", during the 2004 sales period (say, April 2004, 3/4 of the model year late). It would have looked identical to a 2004, but been substantially less expensive due to the "oh, it's a year older" effect (with so little change between those MYs, that's the only true reason for a difference in price). So, are you going on when the car was purchased, or did you check the VIN to verify that it is, in fact, a 2004 and not a 2003? If so, you may find your 2004 is really a 2003. Also check the rocker panel on the driver's door, and see the manufacture date; that would tell you if it's really a 2003.
Fortunately, this is not true. As an electronic designer of automotive electronics, I know that almost all electronic modules must survive both double battery jump and reverse battery connections. This is so by design specification. While I have not specifically designed for Hyundai, I have designed for most of the other manufacturers and know this is the case for (as a mininum) Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota, Honda, BMW, and Mercedes.
TerryMSU
I just can't see that this is normal for a brand new, quality car. Does anyone have any ideas/advice?
Some vibration when the gas is applied could be due to the engine lugging. Below 1200, the car could have already slipped into 1st so no problem. Above 1500, the car might have enough oomph to accelerate smoothly even if in a higher gear.
One thing you could try is use the manual shift mode to deliberately put the car into different gears and see what happens. For example, put the car into 1st and get the revs around 1200 and see if it shakes when you accelerate. Or put it into 4th or 5th and get the revs to 1200-1500 and see what happens.
You should also ask to drive another 2009 or 2010 V6 Sonata from the dealer's lot, with a service tech with you, and see if it exhibits the same symptoms as your car.