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Please remember...everytime I roast a chicken in my oven, I am doing it with DRY heat...consider yourself warned... :shades:
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
thanks
When replacing shoes, do one side at a time and use the other side as a reference. Here's a blow-up of the parts:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d801a4c1a.jpg
I disconnected the battery to clear the system and it only kept the air bag light off until I started it about after three miles. I have looked at the wiring on the engine and they all seem to be connected. Everything else seems to be working fine.
I do have a problem with the odometer not working and the speedometer working on and off. What is causing this?
Any and all help would be appreciated.
:confuse:
Thanks!
http://www.carcare.org/Safety/air_bag.shtml
I need step-by-step instructions on how to remove the radio. Can anyone help me with this? I bought the car used, and its a factory radio. Thanks ahead
go to the "honda odyssey problems and solutions forum".
at the top will be a big banner for H + A Accessories, a sponsor for the site.
click on it and select Honda (as opposed to Acura), then Odyssey, then the model year, and then Electronics (there are links for Internal and External and Maintenance, etc), and scroll to the model radio (or similar that you have). There will be a link for downloading the instructions for installation of the radio. that should be a good start.
before you do that though, is there an entry in your owner's manual or special anti-theft radio card which came with the vehicle?
good luck.
Honda Odyssey Forum
Shiftright the Host
I recently went to work for a company that makes a device that monitors various engine performance parameters. Both consumers who want to check whether little Jimmy is drag racing the family Volvo and comm'l fleet managers buy this product.
The only problem is it shows just raw data and doesn't give context or meaningfulness. It's like showing the chords of A Hard Day's Night w/o explaining the social significance of the song.
For example, it gives RPMs of your car but doesn't say whether your car is revving too high at stoplights or getting onto the freeway.
Below are some of the parameters this device mentions and if anyone knows what these would mean re: a car's performance, I'd love to know. Some I'm more aware of than others, but that's okay.
RPM
Throttle Position
Engine Load
Fuel Pressure
Fuel System Status
Short-term fuel trim
Long-term fuel trim
Battery Voltage
Timing Advance
Coolant Temp
Air Flow Rate
Intake air temp
Intake manifold pressure
O2 sensor output voltage
Thanks for the help in advance
RPM balanced against throttle position doesn't give you much more info, but RPM against timing advance or intake manifold pressure might give you how hard the throttle was jammed, indicating hard driving. RPM and engine load might be used to calculate shift points, and there may be a way of developing a mathmetical relationship between them and the intake manifold pressure that could indicate if little Johnny was peeling out at the stoplight. most of the rest are service parameters which are useful to diagnose troubles.
throttle position just uses the TPS voltage to tell the computer how far the gas pedal is depressed.
engine load is a calculated internal number to the engine computer that should correlate to how much of the design horsepower is being generated. if you're towing and headed uphill, engine load will be high. similarly, if you are hammering the gas and burning rubber all the way down the road, engine load should be high.
fuel pressure may be a go/nogo or may be a linear curve. you have to have a certain fuel pressure at the injectors to get the right fuel/air mix to run the car. there should be some "slop" in the system that the computer can correct for, and this is probably the signal that allows the car to keep running as the pump and regulator age.
fuel system status may be about anything, I would suspect it's a go/nogo signal out, or a "low fuel" signal in from extra contacts on the sender in the gas tank.
short and long term fuel trim are the signals from the 02 sensors... short-term would be the manifold sensors, long-term the catalytic sensors... used to align the operation curve with actual performance, and adjust the fuel/air mix.
battery voltage is a linear signal, basically anything below 10.5 volts in run is likely to be a check light, because after the voltage regulators in the engine computer, the dropout of the regulators below 10.5 volts makes the computer iffy.
timing advance is probably an output signal corrected to degrees, generated from the crank position sensor and the computer's calculations on how to get the engine to do best right now dynamically. there is no "timing advance" conducted mechanically any more, but it represents when the computer kicks the coils to fire the plugs.
coolant temp is used to adjust the air/fuel mixture for better efficiency, and indicate when the computer can get off its fixed curve set and go dynamic, when the engine and all its sensors are warmed up.
air flow rate is from the MAP sensor, and practically ought to be similar to the engine load in determining how hard it's working. 17 parts air to one part gas makes the wheels spin.
intake air temp is outside temperature, probably used in cold weather corrections to the computer curve.
intake manifold pressure is actually going to measure engine vacuum.
02 sensor output voltage is raw input from the sensors, and when integrated over time should be similar to the fuel trim signals.
sounds like new software analysis functions for the CarChip in the future...
TIKI2 :confuse:
generally, epoxy coat can be dissolved out by pure methylene chloride, heat, and agitation. when that is done, both the anti-tamper and the components' epoxy cases are gone, and the guys who do that are looking to put the chips themselves under polarized-field microscopes, to look for failure mode flaws on the chips between metal and silicon layers.
that is a unit-replaced module, no repairs there. if there were, it's all surface-mount chips, and they don't carry real part numbers, but manufacturer-specific joke codes like "5E" and "2C." matching up these with real part types is not cool, you need the design data that dodge is not going to give you.
While participating in another forum, the topic of Fuel Injection came up. I found the following link/page which might be of interest to those wishing to learn a little about the technology:
http://xantiaclub.net/techguide/
The specific question is "can the nickel get anywhere harmful?" but now I want to know just what path air takes all the way to the vent. Any good place to start?
But really, I don't think I'd worry about this if I were you.
Any ideas?
Here's the thread start:
elias, "2007 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon" #1670, 21 Aug 2006 10:47 am
Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop
I had to do a bit of research, but I believe that this post is entirely incorrect- at least for vehicles with lockup torque converters when the converters are locked. I also believe this to be the case with the GM 4L60E transmission used in the 1/2 ton trucks and SUVs. This must be the case because otherwise my 2004 Silverado would have provided no engine braking when coasting down hills, and RPMs would have fallen off to idle levels from those obtained in normal throttle-on cruising at the same speeds (or, assuming GM is or was using fuel shut off during coast in the 04 Silverados, the engine would have died completely, as asserted by the other member posting that message).
Am I wrong?
The whole discussion gets a little confusing because automatics cannot be push started. But that's because there is no way, absent a rear pump driven directly by the drive shaft, to engage any of the necessary clutches without hydraulic pressure.
And I rather doubt, strongly, that the "light" duty lock-up clutch would, could, ever be used to convey engine compression braking, keep the engine turning over during coast downs.
But it is a simple matter to test, just downshift and then turn the ignition off during a coast down time and then back on a little later and see if the engine resumes "running".
for example, VW vag-com can show the condition on most any VW, i bet .
5. Deceleration – when a deceleration condition is detected the fuel delivery is decreased or completely shut off.
OPEN LOOP - the A/F ratio is controlled to provide the best driveability and minimal emissions under the following conditions:
A. Start-up - richer mixture
B. Cold engine operation - richer mixture
C. WOT - richer mixture
D. Deceleration - leaner mixture or complete fuel cut-off
F. Idle > some engines
G. Heavy engine load - determined from TPS & MAP or MAF
I've tried to ask mechanics to do this in the past and I always get mean looks. Why do they hate doing this so much?
Also, I have an underslung spare with a nut-driven winder that tightens a steel cable that holds the spare up under the car (minivan). The owners manual says never to use an impact wrench on this and yet I cannot seem to get any mechanics to obey this rule. I even asked a mechanic who was using an air wrench to please stop and the owner of the shop was standing right behind him and told the mechanic to just continue using the air wrench.
I also get very upset at techs who will use an oil filter wrench to tighten and install and oil filter...where did they miss the concept that you HAND tighten the filter )after puting a thin film of oil on the gasket) but use the wrench to take it OFF???
That is either incompetence or ignorance on their part.
Lug nuts that are run on with air wrenches can cause problems with the wheels and rotors.
Any REPUTABLE tire shop will torque ALL lug nuts.
A lot of them start out in some lube place that emphasizes being fast. Get it in, dump the oil and get out.
Then they go into some shop paying flat rate and they get paid for what the book says, so if they can skip a step and shave .2 hour off the repair, they make money.
Now, don't misunderstand me, this happens less than folks would like to admit. But it still happens.
By the way, Discount Tire (America's Tire in some parts of the country) boast on signs in their reception areas that they hand-torque the tires. And you can actually watch the kids in the bay working on your vehicle.