Would you like to know how you can get more details beyond the TSB information that Edmunds' Maintenance Guide provides? Read this article from Edmunds' Ownership section: You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB). Here you'll find some good information/links to other resources such as Alldata.com and Bat Auto Technical. Hope this is helpful. Let us know what you think.
Opatience- I take it you approve of Bat Auto Tech. Right? ;-) Just curious what you think of alldata? Thanks for your comments
Ha ha, I better approve of BAT, or my guys will not be happy with me, so my opinion of BAT Auto and Alldata are biased. LOL! Alldata, again, I am biased, but for a person's money, it is the best investment by far. Especially for TSB and tech info. Everything is updated continually, with info from the manufacturer. I did find out that NHTSA will send info to folks, but the charge for the research time. Which could be as little as $1.00 or as much as $10.00 and postage. Right now, Alldata is having a special on one year subscriptions for $19.95/year. Add other vehicles, for $14.95/year. I use Alldata, a pro edition and the DIY subscription has the same info as my Pro edition. One problem they have run into is that Honda has forced them to pull their info from the DIY subscriptions. Honda doesn't want the Do-It-Yourselfer to have the info to fix their cars.
I have noticed that Chiltons has come out with a repair manual CD and is talking about an on-line setup. We are going to be checking them out to see how well they compare. Chilton's track record for info hasn't been that great, so we'll see how they do.
Revka, you are absolutely correct about walking into the dealer blind. The more folks are educated on their vehicles, the better chance they stand of having their vehicle repaired without too much incident. I see too often where someone goe in for a problem and they are told this or that part needs replacing. They never ask why or even what the part is. Having no idea, they say yes. Then are thrown when the cost of the part is high. Not saying a person needs to know everything about their vehicle, but the basics wouldn't hurt. And as has been said, there are great resources, like Edmunds (LOL!), on the internet to learn.
I have a 86 Buick skyhawk, 4spd with 4cyl. engine...I wanted to know if someone can tell me why it will not go in gear. It is real hard to get in any gear and scrapes to go in reverse. I know that the clutch is still good so I would appreciate anyone's help thank you Jerrysgirl
How do you know the clutch is still good? It could be badly worn but still work, and a badly worn clutch disk could cause the symptoms you mention.
Try this...if you can't get it into a gear, shut off the engine and see if it goes in easier. If it doesn, it probably is the clutch. If not, it could be a shifter adjustment or just a worn out gearbox.
Jerrysgirl, I agree with Mr Shiftright, most likely, either there is a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder or the clutch disk is bad.
Revka Do you know if people can get more Honda Tsb info through the nhtsa? Yes, Honda is required to provide Recall and TSB info to NHTSA. They'd like not to, but since they are a govt entity, Honda has little choice.
You mention that alldata updates frequently. Do you know how often that is? AS near as I have been able to figure out, it is about a 2 week basis. It may be more frequent than that, but I have only been able to verify 2 week intervals from my checking on it.
One of the reasons I was asking about them was because they appear to be missing a TSB for my vehicle that I've seen in Edmunds' Maintenance Guide. I sent them an email about it, hoping to get more details, but haven't heard back as of yet. I hope to soon. If they don't get back to you soon, let me know. Will need to know what info you need, year, make, model and when you sent them the e-mail. I'll either get you the info or make sure somone contacts you and I will find out a contact that can be posted. I give them enough grief as it is, a little more won't hurt. LOL!
I talked with Alldata and their TSB info is updated quarterly. I agree that it should be more frequent. We went over the fact that the TSB you were looking for wasn't listed. That is something that they are going to work on. Hopefully, it will improve. NHTSA doesn't seem to interested in making any improvements on their system, so this will always create some headaches. If I can be of any more help, you know where to find me. LOL!
Thanks for the follow up on that alldata/tsb information. I appreciate your help... and the time you put into these discussions. See you around Town Hall. ;-)
A major newspaper is looking to interview folks who learned how to drive stick in their adulthood, and either fell in love or hated it. Also welcome is any input on why people love to drive stick, and any unusual anecdotes about how you learned etc.
Hope to hear from you before Feb 22 via the Talk to the Press discussion or at jfallon@edmunds.com with your thoughts and contact information. Thanks for your participation.
My 98 Grand voyager has 53k and makes a kind of growling noise with a slight lurch when I am stopped at a light with my foot on the brake. It does not make this noise while driving. I'm guessing it has something to do with the amount of fuel getting to the engine, perhaps due to a clogged fuel filter(which has never been changed). When my a/c is on it is much worse. Any ideas?
It isn't the fuel filter. Any engine requires more fuel when accelerating at higher speed, so that's when a restricted fuel filter would show up. The most likely cause of the noise is a worn serpentine belt tensioner pulley. Try removing the belt and running the engine to see if the noise goes away. Don't run it for more than 20-30 seconds with the belt off. The water pump is belt driven and there'll be no coolant flow.
The belt tensioner was replaced about 3 months ago for a different reason(a high pitched noise upon starting in the morning), so I don't think that's it. I'm also pretty sure that it's not the sound of the brakes against the idle. It sounds a little as if the car is almost about to stall. It could be the idler pully bearing (although I'm not quite sure what that is). Would that expalin why it's much worse when the a/c is on?
I am considering swapping the power adjuster base for the stock fixed base in a 2002 Grand Caravan SE. Since the seats are the same from the base up ("low-back" style with adjustable head rests) it looks like it is fairly simple to unbolt the seat from the base and swap it out. The manual seat back recliner parts will have to be removed also. The part that I'm concerned about now is the wiring harness. I don't know where to hook the harness to power in the Grand Caravan. I'm am trying to avoid purchasing the service manual but It may come to that! Thanks.
You should also try the Vans forum, where you'll find plenty of Grand Caravan owners and fans.
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This is a crosspost from the "separating fact and fiction" board.
We have a 1995 Saturn SL-1. It had a security system that would disallow the car from starting unless you pressed a special button first. We always found this security system to be annoying.
We took the car in for regular maintenance to a new mechanic. As part of the work order, we requested that the security system be removed. We picked the car up from the mechanic on Friday and did not drive it again until Monday.
On Monday, my wife noticed the battery light was on. By Thursday, the car was dead. We arranged AAA to tow it back to the mechanic. Miles driven from Friday to Thursday: 87.
The mechanic examined it and has concluded that the alternator is shot. Their technician disavows any responsibility for the problem, although on my end it seems entirely too coincidental that a mere few days after they remove a security system that was tied into the electrical system of the car, the alternator is completely dead.
I could definitely use some help separating fact from fiction here. Is there anything we can do to prove that the mechanic was at fault? Or are we supposed to accept their explanation that it's just a coincidence?
You say you "noticed" the alternator light was on on Monday, but you picked the car up on Friday.
If the alternator light wasn't on on Friday, I'd have to say the benefit of the doubt goess with the mechanic. Accidentally "frying" the alternator by mis-connecting wires is usually an instantaneous form of death so the charge light would have been on as you left the shop.
If your side of the story would be that you didn't notice the red light on on Friday, that's a bit weak for "proving" anything, so no go there.
Many alternator regulators are turned on by by power to the idiot light. If you drove around for a couple of days, never saw a battery light, and then the battery was dead, that would have been the mechanics problem. One problem that can occur is corrosion on the fuse that supplies power to th regulator. This is also the battery reference voltage. A relatively small resistance can cause the regulator to think battery voltage is lower than it actually is and cause the alternator to cook when it puts out extra current. This can happen any time someone works on you vehicle and thins are moved around slightly. It is your cars fault. It's old and things are worn. I don't believe for a second that this is in any way a fault of the mechanic.
As a side note, since you mentioned tht your van had 53K miles and never changed the fuel filter, even if that is not the problem, most filters on a car (air, cabin, fuel) should be changed every 25-30K miles as standard maintenance... transmission filter, if there is one, changed with fluid change every 25-30K miles...oil filters every oil change, and change oil religiously...one of the main factors in keeping an engine running over 100K miles (yes, I know there are other factors, too) is religiously changing oil on a regular basis, as the engine only has from 4-7 quarts of oil to lubricate it and flush out the contaminants...if ever you are in doubt, better to change any fluid/filter combo MORE often than less often, as it can only halp your engine/tranny last longer...
100,000 miles is nothing to brag about any more - I've got that on my '99 van and the fluids and filters just get changed as recommended in my owner's manual. At this point it's just a matter of guessing whether the body or the engine will go first.
Hi there I have an ford econoline van e-373 is a 1977, and has a 351 windser engine, it also has the cab over camper on it cab is open to the back... I'm currently installing a mallory after market ignition system as the old module is nothing but problems and I'm wondering if someone can tell me where I can find the basic diagram for the charging system, I really dont want to mess that up and I did notice that It seems to have a voltage regulator which perhaps make things a bit more complex??? short of the diagram can someone tell me how this circut of the charging system works??
Thats a nice try, but not quite. The hp quoted is usually at high rpm. So accelerating from 30-60 hp is important. From 0-30, the torque more important. The max torque is achived at low rpms. So the acceleration would depend on what range of speed you to are accelerating from/to.
I have a 1997 Pontiac Gran AM with a factory Cassette/radio. What is the best way to change the light bulb for the led display. The power window attempts to go down but stops part way. After a few moments you can press the button again and the window will go the rest of the way. It also works the same way on the way up. Could this be the switch or the motor.
while I am just a layman, I would check the switch first...if possible, if you are disassembling the door yourself, touch the wires together (wear safety gloves) and see if the window goes fully up and down nonstop...if yes, bad switch...if no, motor problem...
I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but here it goes. I was wondering how difficult it is to change the Altenator, Power Steering & A/C belts on a 92 Geo Prizm? Is there anything special I need to know about changing them other than how much "play" there should or shouldn't be? Also... occasionally when I go to town & it's real hot outside sometimes the car won't start. The indicator lights come on & sometimes the fan even comes on, but it won't turn over. It doesn't do it consistantly, only once in a while. Could it be the ignition switch isn't making contact when it gets hot, or something else? Any help with this is greatly appreciated. Thank you :confuse:
I've a nissan sentra with 90k miles on it. Recently, I'm hearing a kind of metallic noise near the rear wheel on the right side. I'm getting this noise, when I crank the engine and apply accelarator or when turning.. not during all turns though.. what could this problem be.. if this is a CV joint problem, how much would it cost to fix it.. any advise is greatlly appreciated. Thank you !!
Also, if you get no response in a few days, then use the "browse by Vehicle" feature to the left of this page to find forums related to your specific vehicle.
Thanks to the texas heat, I've got a battery so dead, it won't hold enough of a charge to even get out of the driveway. I'm not the world's greatest mechanic, but I'm not a complete incompetant either. However, I've never changed out a battery or watched the procedure. Can anyone give me some steps on what to do?
batteries are often held in with a bolt at the bottom securing a bracket near the bottom of the battery, or there may be a bracket across the top with some bolts to hold it in...you will probably need a basic ratchet set and basic wrench set, along with a decent set of good screwdrivers, both regular and phillips...you can probably purchase everything at Sears for under $100 for good quality tools which will probably last longer than you will live...a minor investment in good tools is always considered prudent if you drive and intend on doing ANY maintenance yourself...
Disconnect the battery cables first, negative (black ground) then positive (hot red) and move them out of the way...disconnect the bracket holding in the battery and lift the battery out slowly and carefully...take it to the auto parts store to match it up with the one they sell you (it is such a time waster to buy the batt, bring it home, and find out the terminals are reversed or something else is wrong)...
Reverse procedure...clean battery cables with a wire brush (battery wire brushes can be bought at the auto parts store for under $5), install positive first then negative...drive away and repeat in 3-5 years...
Buy the batt with the most CCA (cold cranking amps) that you can afford...
Taking the old battery to the store with you may save you a trip back, since most places charge an environmental fee that's refunded when you return the old battery.
You need to check your owner's manual as well. Some cars have codes for the radio that are lost if the battery is disconnected and some cars (like my Outback) sound their alarm when you hook up a battery. So it's good to know how to turn the alarm off before you hook up a battery.
extra info...it has been some years since I changed a battery, and few had alarms when I did it...also, back then, the radio was not affected, either...
It was only a few years ago, but I think Goodyear was selling bias-ply tires with guaranteed mileage of 12K...wasn't that about 2-3 years ago???...
i'll add one anecdote and one observation about changing a battery which may be helpful to someone in the future. maybe a more knowlegeable person will comment.
my wife owned a small mitzu hatchback. i can't remember the model exactly. battery died when we left the lights on. decided we'd replace it since it was much more than 4 yrs old. following replacement, car idled rough. everytime going to a stop sign or light, engine would die. called a firestone mechanic and asked if i could bring it in. he asks over the phone "does it have fuel injection"? i say matter of fact it does. he says "it lost it's idle parameters when the battery was disconnected. start it in the parking lot, let it idle for 30 minutes and it will be fine".
sure enough, problem fixed. thank you mr. firestone mechanic!
flash forward to today...it appears to me that at least some vehicles like my honda accord and honda odyssey have something called an "idle learn" procedure which you evidently are supposed to perform when the battery is disconnected to install a radio or something.
therefore - i suggest you investigate further if the vehicle idles poorly, or cuts out at stop lights following the replacement. probably most vehicles re-learn parameters on their own to some extent, or do just fine with the power-up defaults from the factory - but there may be extra tweaks to improve upon the defaults.
Showing your age now, are we Steve? I remember when cassette tapes came out, what a novelty they were. No more reel to reel. LOL!!
Most of the newer vehicles have security radios and if the battery is run dead or disconnected, you have to have the security code to enable the radio again. I can tell you, it is a royal pain in the [you know what]. If you don't have the security code, then you will probably have to pull the radio out and get the numbers on the radio and go to the dealer to get the security codes, usually at a pretty nice price.
Some of the newer vehicles have "adaptive" relearn. Which means the PCM will adapt to the driving conditions of the operator. Shift patterns and such will change with the driver's habits.
There were quite a few vehicles that had to have relearn procedures done on them to make them run right. This is why I always stress the need for a quality repair manual for the vehicle. There is only one I recommend. ; )
One other thing this subject brings up............... There are many, many, many [see "bunches"] of problems that are corrected in PCM program updates [reflashing]. If you are having a "driveability" problem with your vehicle, ask the dealer if there is a updated reflash for the PCM. It can't hurt to ask them to look and see. I have seen vehicles that have gone in for a problem and come to find out, there were 9 software updates for various problems. That would be equivelant to not upgrading Internet Explorer 9 versions and wondering why it didn't work so well with some pages [driveablity issue].
0patience, good point about the radio. question, does a vanilla '03 have a security code associated with it? if so - where is it? in all the documentation which came with the car - i never read anything about it. same with my '02 accord. does it have a code? arghhh. i'm not ready for "AutoXP" operating systems and PCM reflashes.
now then, one (and there are a number) of the downsides to the reflash phenomenon is that the customer doesn't have a convenient means to know what rev his/her ECM or TCM happen to be nor what the issues are with a particular rev, and what gets fixed between revs. seems like they should provide a means via a USB interface or even 9-pin RS-232 to hook your car up to a general purpose computer (MAC or PC) and get all the revision information when you start the car for example, or take it from OFF to ACC, so at least you know how far behind in revisions you are. I'm aware of the OBD-II interfaces, but the protocol and interface is something an end consumer would have to pay at least $100 for. There should also be a web-site where the details of the revisions is provided. just my opinion.
is this: over half what I told you is wrong...you may not "just" change the battery, but be on the lookout for 1 million other things...just a thought...maybe your owner's manual has a battery section where they TELL you what to lookout for, so you may know in advance...I was really trying to help a novice, and I really did not know all this stuff had changed over the years...
Ah, the adaptive question. We had a round about this in an Explorer discussion:
"Ok, if I take my tranny in for a reflash, the optimal shift duration data will get changed and the tranny will take a while to adjust. If I disconnect the battery to cause the tranny to relearn, aggressive or mild driving will just affect the time it takes for the tranny to figure out the optimal shift duration, based on throttle and rpm stuff."
We were focusing on the tranny there, but does the PCM really adapt to the driver or does it take the driver's inputs and use those to reach a software ideal?
This was the link to the other thread if you have interest.
Ha ha, you did fine. Any more, they are trying to make it so that the average DIYer won't be able to do much with out a scanner, DVOM and good information.
Unfortunately, half of the people don't read their owner's manual until it is too late. Used to be all you had to be concerned about was the presets on the radio. Now, there is a different procedure for different vehicles. Welcome to the world of computers. LOL!
Steve, looked at that thread. Looks like you covered it pretty well.
"Ok, if I take my tranny in for a reflash, the optimal shift duration data will get changed and the tranny will take a while to adjust. If I disconnect the battery to cause the tranny to relearn, aggressive or mild driving will just affect the time it takes for the tranny to figure out the optimal shift duration, based on throttle and rpm stuff." Here is a scenario............... Dad has a 2004 GMC Sierra, the truck's PCM has adapted to his driving style and he drives down the road and it shifts nice and smooth and at the points where he is used to. Jr wants to borrow Dad's truck to go out on a date and in to town that night. Dad tells him not to hot rod his trucks, but Jr thinks to himself, "Dad will never know."
Dad will know, because when Dad jumps in his truck the next morning, on the first shift, the transmission sends him back in his seat. Dad's wondering what happened to his truck, so he heads to the shop to have them take a look at it. The shop is 20 miles away, so when Dad gets there, it is shifting fine and the good ol' driveability that he is used to is back.
Now, why is this? The newer vehicles are constantly monitoring and changing the driveability of the vehicle to "fit" [for lack of a better word] the operator. On some of the newer GM vehicles, that adaptive time is about 10 minutes of drive time. The computer will take an average of the parameters and modify them to the "best" [according to the program] parameters to allow for a smooth shift and performance. The computer will even back the throttle off if the pedal is suddenly mashed to the floor and the computer sees no movement between the front and rear wheel sensors.
We were focusing on the tranny there, but does the PCM really adapt to the driver or does it take the driver's inputs and use those to reach a software ideal? I think for the most part, it uses the driver's inputs to reach a software ideal. It must remain with in the emissions parameters, so it will modify the conditions or habits of the driver with in reason.
All revisions to the programs will be included into the newest revision, so if there is a driveability problem that requires a reflash, the newest version will include all of the older versions as well.
they should provide a means via a USB interface or even 9-pin RS-232 to hook your car up to a general purpose computer (MAC or PC) and get all the revision information when you start the car for example, or take it from OFF to ACC, so at least you know how far behind in revisions you are. Heavy trucks have that already. When you turn the key on, on newer HD trucks [kenworth and such] that have digital dashes, the revision number of the software is listed just below the odometer.
The problem with the reflashing is that it takes a $3000 scanner and a download [or disk] from the manufacturer, which they also charge for.
02 Honda Accord You should have received a card that lists your audio system's code number and serial number. It is best to store this card in a safe place at home. In addition, you should write the audio system's serial number in this Owner's Manual. If you should happen to lose the card, you must obtain the code number from your Honda dealer. To do this, you will need the system's serial number. [means removing the radio]
Well, see, I sort of got it in my head that once the optimal shift points were reached, then they weren't going to change again (until Bob's battery dies anyway).
I think somewhere this thread jumped from 101 to a 300 level course.
ok - i meant vanilla '03 odyssey. i guess i was supposed to get a card with that (purchased new) but didn't. now then the '02 accord was purchased used. i guess i'm in trouble huh? can i request the information from honda via the owner link or something? wouldn't the factory (both have factory systems) have recorded the information somewhere? it would be a tad easier proving i own these vehicles than it would removing the respective radios.
and thanks for the valuable information. i guess i should pull my respective owner's manuals and see if the battery replacement proceedure mentions anything about the idle learn proceedure. this is something i remember reading in the instructions downloaded from the H & A Accessories website when i contemplated installing keyless entry in the '03 LX.
Why not just purchase a memory saver, essentially an adaptor with a diode and a 9volt battery which plugs into an accessory outlet or cigarette ligher socket. Will keep power to the radio, PCM, etc while the battery is being changed. Make sure first, though, that the outlet is powered when the key's off.
DOH! Good call buddy. I forgot about that. This is a memory saver. It uses a 9V battery and prevents losing the memory of the radio and alarms, as Alcan said.
Since both of my cars are 2004, I do not expect to be changing my batteries in the near future, but when I do, I will let you know what kind of aggravation I had with my various car functions...
Odd coincidence...I bought my 2004 Crown Vic 8/1/04, with a manufacture date of 08/03, meaning it sat on the dealer's lot for a year...
I then bought my 2004 Ram 1500 in 11/26/04, with a manufacture date of 11/03, also sat on the lot for a year prior to my purchase...
Sitting on the lot, in the summer heat (GA and TN), I wonder if I will really get 3-4 years out of a stock battery...
When replaced, tho, be sure I will purchase a 5 year batt with sufficient CCA's to run Miami for a week...but I may not have a radio... :shades:
I picked up a '97 Outback a couple of years ago and had to replace the battery last February (that's how I found out about the car alarm issue, lol).
The dead battery was the OEM one, so it lasted ~7 years. It was an Anchorage car for the first 5 years of its life, but it still lasted almost 2 years in the Boise heat. Pretty amazing. I did six years in TN heat, and I don't miss the humidity.
Comments
Opatience- I take it you approve of Bat Auto Tech. Right? ;-) Just curious what you think of alldata? Thanks for your comments
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
Alldata, again, I am biased, but for a person's money, it is the best investment by far. Especially for TSB and tech info. Everything is updated continually, with info from the manufacturer.
I did find out that NHTSA will send info to folks, but the charge for the research time. Which could be as little as $1.00 or as much as $10.00 and postage.
Right now, Alldata is having a special on one year subscriptions for $19.95/year. Add other vehicles, for $14.95/year.
I use Alldata, a pro edition and the DIY subscription has the same info as my Pro edition.
One problem they have run into is that Honda has forced them to pull their info from the DIY subscriptions. Honda doesn't want the Do-It-Yourselfer to have the info to fix their cars.
I have noticed that Chiltons has come out with a repair manual CD and is talking about an on-line setup. We are going to be checking them out to see how well they compare. Chilton's track record for info hasn't been that great, so we'll see how they do.
Revka, you are absolutely correct about walking into the dealer blind. The more folks are educated on their vehicles, the better chance they stand of having their vehicle repaired without too much incident. I see too often where someone goe in for a problem and they are told this or that part needs replacing. They never ask why or even what the part is. Having no idea, they say yes. Then are thrown when the cost of the part is high. Not saying a person needs to know everything about their vehicle, but the basics wouldn't hurt. And as has been said, there are great resources, like Edmunds (LOL!), on the internet to learn.
Try this...if you can't get it into a gear, shut off the engine and see if it goes in easier. If it doesn, it probably is the clutch. If not, it could be a shifter adjustment or just a worn out gearbox.
I agree with Mr Shiftright, most likely, either there is a problem with the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder or the clutch disk is bad.
Revka
Do you know if people can get more Honda Tsb info through the nhtsa?
Yes, Honda is required to provide Recall and TSB info to NHTSA. They'd like not to, but since they are a govt entity, Honda has little choice.
You mention that alldata updates frequently. Do you know how often that is?
AS near as I have been able to figure out, it is about a 2 week basis. It may be more frequent than that, but I have only been able to verify 2 week intervals from my checking on it.
One of the reasons I was asking about them was because they appear to be missing a TSB for my vehicle that I've seen in Edmunds' Maintenance Guide. I sent them an email about it, hoping to get more details, but haven't heard back as of yet. I hope to soon.
If they don't get back to you soon, let me know. Will need to know what info you need, year, make, model and when you sent them the e-mail. I'll either get you the info or make sure somone contacts you and I will find out a contact that can be posted. I give them enough grief as it is, a little more won't hurt. LOL!
If I can be of any more help, you know where to find me. LOL!
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards
Hope to hear from you before Feb 22 via the Talk to the Press discussion or at jfallon@edmunds.com with your thoughts and contact information. Thanks for your participation.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
Also, are yo sure you aren't hearing the brakes holding the car against a too fast idle speed?
kirstie_h
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How does the center diff attach to the T case and both driveshafts?
Whats the difference between a locking center diff and locking t case? Is one better than the other?
This is a crosspost from the "separating fact and fiction" board.
We have a 1995 Saturn SL-1. It had a security system that would disallow the car from starting unless you pressed a special button first. We always found this security system to be annoying.
We took the car in for regular maintenance to a new mechanic. As part of the work order, we requested that the security system be removed. We picked the car up from the mechanic on Friday and did not drive it again until Monday.
On Monday, my wife noticed the battery light was on. By Thursday, the car was dead. We arranged AAA to tow it back to the mechanic. Miles driven from Friday to Thursday: 87.
The mechanic examined it and has concluded that the alternator is shot. Their technician disavows any responsibility for the problem, although on my end it seems entirely too coincidental that a mere few days after they remove a security system that was tied into the electrical system of the car, the alternator is completely dead.
I could definitely use some help separating fact from fiction here. Is there anything we can do to prove that the mechanic was at fault? Or are we supposed to accept their explanation that it's just a coincidence?
If the alternator light wasn't on on Friday, I'd have to say the benefit of the doubt goess with the mechanic. Accidentally "frying" the alternator by mis-connecting wires is usually an instantaneous form of death so the charge light would have been on as you left the shop.
If your side of the story would be that you didn't notice the red light on on Friday, that's a bit weak for "proving" anything, so no go there.
I think you are out of luck.
Steve, Host
Technical Questions
Also, if you get no response in a few days, then use the "browse by Vehicle" feature to the left of this page to find forums related to your specific vehicle.
thank you and good luck solving your problems!
MrShiftright
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Thanks
Allison
Disconnect the battery cables first, negative (black ground) then positive (hot red) and move them out of the way...disconnect the bracket holding in the battery and lift the battery out slowly and carefully...take it to the auto parts store to match it up with the one they sell you (it is such a time waster to buy the batt, bring it home, and find out the terminals are reversed or something else is wrong)...
Reverse procedure...clean battery cables with a wire brush (battery wire brushes can be bought at the auto parts store for under $5), install positive first then negative...drive away and repeat in 3-5 years...
Buy the batt with the most CCA (cold cranking amps) that you can afford...
Happy motoring...
You need to check your owner's manual as well. Some cars have codes for the radio that are lost if the battery is disconnected and some cars (like my Outback) sound their alarm when you hook up a battery. So it's good to know how to turn the alarm off before you hook up a battery.
Steve, Host
It was only a few years ago, but I think Goodyear was selling bias-ply tires with guaranteed mileage of 12K...wasn't that about 2-3 years ago???...
Steve, Host
my wife owned a small mitzu hatchback. i can't remember the model exactly. battery died when we left the lights on. decided we'd replace it since it was much more than 4 yrs old. following replacement, car idled rough. everytime going to a stop sign or light, engine would die. called a firestone mechanic and asked if i could bring it in. he asks over the phone "does it have fuel injection"? i say matter of fact it does. he says "it lost it's idle parameters when the battery was disconnected. start it in the parking lot, let it idle for 30 minutes and it will be fine".
sure enough, problem fixed. thank you mr. firestone mechanic!
flash forward to today...it appears to me that at least some vehicles like my honda accord and honda odyssey have something called an "idle learn" procedure which you evidently are supposed to perform when the battery is disconnected to install a radio or something.
therefore - i suggest you investigate further if the vehicle idles poorly, or cuts out at stop lights following the replacement. probably most vehicles re-learn parameters on their own to some extent, or do just fine with the power-up defaults from the factory - but there may be extra tweaks to improve upon the defaults.
I remember when cassette tapes came out, what a novelty they were. No more reel to reel. LOL!!
Most of the newer vehicles have security radios and if the battery is run dead or disconnected, you have to have the security code to enable the radio again.
I can tell you, it is a royal pain in the [you know what].
If you don't have the security code, then you will probably have to pull the radio out and get the numbers on the radio and go to the dealer to get the security codes, usually at a pretty nice price.
There were quite a few vehicles that had to have relearn procedures done on them to make them run right. This is why I always stress the need for a quality repair manual for the vehicle. There is only one I recommend. ; )
One other thing this subject brings up...............
There are many, many, many [see "bunches"] of problems that are corrected in PCM program updates [reflashing].
If you are having a "driveability" problem with your vehicle, ask the dealer if there is a updated reflash for the PCM. It can't hurt to ask them to look and see.
I have seen vehicles that have gone in for a problem and come to find out, there were 9 software updates for various problems.
That would be equivelant to not upgrading Internet Explorer 9 versions and wondering why it didn't work so well with some pages [driveablity issue].
now then, one (and there are a number) of the downsides to the reflash phenomenon is that the customer doesn't have a convenient means to know what rev his/her ECM or TCM happen to be nor what the issues are with a particular rev, and what gets fixed between revs. seems like they should provide a means via a USB interface or even 9-pin RS-232 to hook your car up to a general purpose computer (MAC or PC) and get all the revision information when you start the car for example, or take it from OFF to ACC, so at least you know how far behind in revisions you are. I'm aware of the OBD-II interfaces, but the protocol and interface is something an end consumer would have to pay at least $100 for. There should also be a web-site where the details of the revisions is provided. just my opinion.
"Ok, if I take my tranny in for a reflash, the optimal shift duration data will get changed and the tranny will take a while to adjust. If I disconnect the battery to cause the tranny to relearn, aggressive or mild driving will just affect the time it takes for the tranny to figure out the optimal shift duration, based on throttle and rpm stuff."
We were focusing on the tranny there, but does the PCM really adapt to the driver or does it take the driver's inputs and use those to reach a software ideal?
This was the link to the other thread if you have interest.
You've opened a lovely can of worms, Bob. :-)
Steve, Host
Any more, they are trying to make it so that the average DIYer won't be able to do much with out a scanner, DVOM and good information.
Unfortunately, half of the people don't read their owner's manual until it is too late.
Used to be all you had to be concerned about was the presets on the radio.
Now, there is a different procedure for different vehicles.
Welcome to the world of computers. LOL!
Looks like you covered it pretty well.
"Ok, if I take my tranny in for a reflash, the optimal shift duration data will get changed and the tranny will take a while to adjust. If I disconnect the battery to cause the tranny to relearn, aggressive or mild driving will just affect the time it takes for the tranny to figure out the optimal shift duration, based on throttle and rpm stuff."
Here is a scenario...............
Dad has a 2004 GMC Sierra, the truck's PCM has adapted to his driving style and he drives down the road and it shifts nice and smooth and at the points where he is used to.
Jr wants to borrow Dad's truck to go out on a date and in to town that night.
Dad tells him not to hot rod his trucks, but Jr thinks to himself, "Dad will never know."
Dad will know, because when Dad jumps in his truck the next morning, on the first shift, the transmission sends him back in his seat. Dad's wondering what happened to his truck, so he heads to the shop to have them take a look at it. The shop is 20 miles away, so when Dad gets there, it is shifting fine and the good ol' driveability that he is used to is back.
Now, why is this?
The newer vehicles are constantly monitoring and changing the driveability of the vehicle to "fit" [for lack of a better word] the operator.
On some of the newer GM vehicles, that adaptive time is about 10 minutes of drive time.
The computer will take an average of the parameters and modify them to the "best" [according to the program] parameters to allow for a smooth shift and performance.
The computer will even back the throttle off if the pedal is suddenly mashed to the floor and the computer sees no movement between the front and rear wheel sensors.
We were focusing on the tranny there, but does the PCM really adapt to the driver or does it take the driver's inputs and use those to reach a software ideal?
I think for the most part, it uses the driver's inputs to reach a software ideal.
It must remain with in the emissions parameters, so it will modify the conditions or habits of the driver with in reason.
Hope this helps, more than confuses.
they should provide a means via a USB interface or even 9-pin RS-232 to hook your car up to a general purpose computer (MAC or PC) and get all the revision information when you start the car for example, or take it from OFF to ACC, so at least you know how far behind in revisions you are.
Heavy trucks have that already. When you turn the key on, on newer HD trucks [kenworth and such] that have digital dashes, the revision number of the software is listed just below the odometer.
The problem with the reflashing is that it takes a $3000 scanner and a download [or disk] from the manufacturer, which they also charge for.
02 Honda Accord
You should have received a card that lists your audio system's code number and serial number. It is best to store this card in a safe place at home. In addition, you should write the audio system's serial number in this Owner's Manual. If you should happen to lose the card, you must obtain the code number from your Honda dealer. To do this, you will need the system's serial number. [means removing the radio]
I'm lost on the 03 vanilla.
What is it?
I think somewhere this thread jumped from 101 to a 300 level course.
Steve, Host
Sorry about that.
Steve, Host
and thanks for the valuable information. i guess i should pull my respective owner's manuals and see if the battery replacement proceedure mentions anything about the idle learn proceedure. this is something i remember reading in the instructions downloaded from the H & A Accessories website when i contemplated installing keyless entry in the '03 LX.
i'm pretty cheap.
Good call buddy.
I forgot about that.
This is a memory saver.
It uses a 9V battery and prevents losing the memory of the radio and alarms, as Alcan said.
Odd coincidence...I bought my 2004 Crown Vic 8/1/04, with a manufacture date of 08/03, meaning it sat on the dealer's lot for a year...
I then bought my 2004 Ram 1500 in 11/26/04, with a manufacture date of 11/03, also sat on the lot for a year prior to my purchase...
Sitting on the lot, in the summer heat (GA and TN), I wonder if I will really get 3-4 years out of a stock battery...
When replaced, tho, be sure I will purchase a 5 year batt with sufficient CCA's to run Miami for a week...but I may not have a radio...
The dead battery was the OEM one, so it lasted ~7 years. It was an Anchorage car for the first 5 years of its life, but it still lasted almost 2 years in the Boise heat. Pretty amazing. I did six years in TN heat, and I don't miss the humidity.
Steve, Host