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crossedreality · November 2001

Basically, overdrive is a gear with an overdriven ratio. This is anything less than 1:1.

jusdreamin · November 2001

It does help a lot.

With people like you hanging around here, who needs to take a class?

revka · November 2001

Good point. I've learned a lot from hanging out here.... Maybe we could work out some kind of special certification for attending this discussion. hehe ;-)

Revka
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cyranno99 · November 2001

http://www.mindconnection.com/library/auto/emergencykit.htm

my contribution toward a certification

jusdreamin · November 2001

Personally I would replace the scarf with duct tape. Then again, so would any self respecting engineer.

revka · November 2001

I like the dried fruit and nuts idea. The one thing that I did not see there, that I have in my emergency kit, is a 12 volt air pump and tire gauge.

Btw, right now I have so much stuff in the back of my van, it's ridiculous. In addition, to the emergency stuff, I also carry around a beach umbrella and set of fold up lounge chairs. What can I say, I live in Florida. ;-)

So here's a question for anyone: what kind of emergency equipment do you have in the back of your vehicle that's not on that list?

Revka
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alcan · November 2001

Add candles and a space blanket for winter driving.

isellhondas · November 2001

For years I used to carry an emergency kit in my trunk. It included a very basic set of tools, a first aid kit, flares, a blanket and other stuff...I can't remember now.

And, I never used any of it...never!

So...I no longer carry my little kit.

Sure as I mention this here, I'll have a need!

jusdreamin · November 2001

That's the way it always works. A friend of mine had a theory about not tempting irony.

gailadkins · November 2001

Lately, my car has not been starting as it usually does. It seems to be fine in the morning, but at lunch time when I go to my car, get in and turn the key (car is still in park) it sounds like it's going to start, but after a second or two it dies. It does it two or three times and then finally it starts up. Same thing happens when I get in the car to go home. I just put some Gum Out in the gas tank when I had my oil changed, but it does not seem to have helped. Any clue?

jusdreamin · November 2001

but the car is too young for those problems....

revka · November 2001

and sorry to hear about your 2000 Mustang GT problem. Have you had a chance to check out Edmunds' Maintenance Guide to see if there are any TSBs (technical service bulletins) related to your starting problem.

Also, here's a direct link to one of our ongoing Mustang discussions where you should also post (copy/paste) your message. Good luck and please keep us posted on your situation.

Revka
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revka · November 2001

here's are a couple informative articles from Edmunds' Ownership Section:

- Recalls, Technical Service Bulletins, and Other Good Stuff

- You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB).

Hope this is helpful.

Revka
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fpereira · November 2001

Some time ago I ran across this explanation of torque which made it more concrete for me:

Torque is directly related to what you feel when you press on the accelerator.

The torque output of a given motor varies with motor speed. There is a certain motor speed (RPM) at which the motor delivers peak acceleration: that is the peak torque, which is given by the manufacturer.

subearu · November 2001

My wife's Saturn (5 speed) has reverse lights that aren't working at all. I checked the fuse (even replaced it) and checked both bulbs (they look like they're still new).

Anything else I can check? Just chalk it up to wire gremlins?

-Brian

dpwestlake · November 2001

There is a switch usually found on the transmission that turns on the lights when you put it in reverse. That switch may be your problem. I don't know where to find it on a Subaru, but I've had to replace one on my Saab.

subearu · November 2001

thanks - I'll check that out tonight.

-Brian

revka · November 2001

For more feedback, you should also post your message (copy/paste) in one of our ongoing Saturn discussions. To start, here's Saturn Problems and Saturn L-Series. Good luck.

Revka
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dpwestlake · November 2001

Why Saturn? It's a Subaru.

revka · November 2001

I know he drives a Subaru, but in the message above he states: "My wife's Saturn (5 speed) has reverse lights that aren't working at all."

And I assumed he was referring to his wife's Saturn which is also listed in his profile: 1997 Saturn SL 4 door. Excuse me if this is an error.

Revka
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subearu · November 2001

with the problem.

Thanks Revka - I'll go to the Saturn Problems link and check there.

-Brian

dpwestlake · November 2001

Sorry....it's monday.

revka · November 2001

No problem. Have a nice Monday. ;-)

Revka
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jusdreamin · November 2001

Man you ARE having a rough day!!! I hate to tell you this, but today is TUESDAY.

Looks like you were one of the lucky few who had yesterday off. Child born out of wedlock.

dpwestlake · November 2001

So where was I Monday?

jusdreamin · November 2001

That's what we all would like to know!

Personally I think you were abducted by aliens. That would explain the time loss.

leomort · November 2001

all this talk about maintenance and how many people don't take car of their cars, should one be seriously concerned about buying used cars, say 2 to 3 years old? 2-3 yeard old cars seem like a good value, but not if maintence was negleted.

Leo

Mr_Shiftright · November 2001

You can actually destroy a car with poor maintenance for 2-3 years, or at least seriously decrease its life expectancy.

leomort · November 2001

Mr. Shiftright,

I keep my cars for about 7-8 years, averaging 25k miles per year= 200,000 miled during those years. In your opinion, would it be more prudent for me to buy a new vehicle since I'll break it in properly and maintain it properly? I'm looking at the Subaru Foresters. I could get the L model new, with four year loan OR by buying used upgrade to the S model that's 2 years old with a two year loan. Decisions, decisions.

Leo

Mr_Shiftright · November 2001

The only valid reasons, as far as I'm concerned, to buy a new car are the warranty and hopefully, getting the most reliability. So if those two things mean a great deal to you, then that's the thing to do. From an economic standpoint, it seems to make more sense to buy a somewhat used car (not too used) that has already undergone its depreciation but still has some warranty left. Even if some little things go wrong, the balance of warranty will take care of them. Once you start hitting 80,000 miles or so, major components of just about any car are showing wear and tear, especially suspension, belts, hoses, body isolation, exhaust systems, etc.

revka · November 2001

please note, you'll now find a direct link to Edmunds' Maintenance Guide in the Additional Resources on the left side of the page. In addition to searching for TSB's & Recalls, you can find out how much your next service will cost... as well as what's require to keep your vehicle in good shape!

Revka
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leomort · November 2001

Mr. Shiftright,

Say I buy a 2 yr old Subaru Forester and it has average mileage, say 12k/yr, that would leave me 1yr and/or 12k left for bumper-bumper warranty. So hopefully if there is any immediate problems occur I should still be able to get it fixed under warranty. With Revka's tip, Thank you, I should be able to get the scoop about possible problems with the model year car I'm looking to buy.
The reliability part is what concerns me. All I can do for this is try to go with car/make/manufacture that has a reputation for their reliable car. Thus my consideration for Subaras (and looking at Toyotas).
The economic savings on 2 yr old cars are tremendous!!! Even the interest rates on used cars have become reasonable. Until I starting hanging around Edmunds, I would never have considered buying a used car. Now, I'm at least giving it strong consideration.

Leo

Mr_Shiftright · November 2001

Yeah, I think doing that kind of research really improves your odds. Also you can do a CARFAX check for around $15 that will spot any problems with prior collision damage (if it was serious enough to report) or lemon law involvements with the car.

revka · November 2001

Here's an article I came across in the Edmunds' Daily New Headlines that some of you may find interesting: Automotive quality up, researchers say: ; Survey shows some car makers shaking bad reputation. What do you think? ;-)

Revka
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cyranno99 · November 2001

I would say that people now have different attitudes that they have years ago even though the main gripes are the same. The research indicates long-term durability according to the owners. It has nothing to do with quality of materials. So a cheap car that has less electronics gizmo will be less likely to break down and less likely to have complicated problems.

jusdreamin · December 2001

Not to mention not wanting to spend $800 to find out that your check engine light was coming on because of the gas cap!

Kirstie_H · December 2001

Dreamin', i did JUST that. Well, not $800, but I lost my gas cap and had no idea that that was a major problem. My "check engine" light stayed on, and I panicked and took it to a shop. I was fortunate in that they only charged me about $120 to check it over and give me a new gas cap, but it was $120 I wasted because of my own ignorance.

kirstie_h
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Edmunds.com

cyranno99 · December 2001

it's more fun when you are a passenger in a car... try sitting somewhat tilted so that the airbag light goes on.... it freaks out some driver

jusdreamin · December 2001

c: Which cars? Do you tilt your body or the seat? Not that I'm interested mind.

k: Trust me I know what you mean. My mom had a 2000 Villager that was a jinxed lemon. The check engine light came on about 7 times, and people always told her that it was the gas cap. As a result she is now obsessed with making sure the gas cap is on tight.

0patience · December 2001

Folks, I realize that you think you are wasting your money having the light checked, but you also have to realize that the shop has to charge for that time or they go under. While $120 is quite steep for a computer check, $65 is more realistic.

Now, if you have a laptop (I know where you can find some cheap if you don't. LOL!) You can purchase a program and cable adapter for the OBD2 systems (96 and later vehicles.) for less than $200.CarCode scanner program

I recently found this unit and while it is limited in its capabilities, it will pull codes.

OBD diagnostic program

jusdreamin · December 2001

Thanks!!! I think what most of us are griping about is that the idiot light can go off for many different reasons, but more often than not it's for something trivial, like the gas cap.

If someone told us to check it before bringing it over, it would've saved us that money.

I understand the need for them to charge, but it would be nice if the manufacturers rethought the idiot light. Obviously an idiot came up with the idea.

cyranno99 · December 2001

well... you can try it in my car and tilt your body sideway... Of course, it would probably work on any newer airbag designs....

jusdreamin · December 2001

And who was driving while you were trying this?

cyranno99 · December 2001

I was the one who was driving

jusdreamin · December 2001

I take it you are really flexible then huh?

Either that or you have more than one pair of eyes!!

cyranno99 · December 2001

I wasn't the one who freaked at the time... but.... you can try it on someone who knows little about new cars... airbags and stuff...

jusdreamin · December 2001

I know plenty of them! MWA HAHAHAHAHA!!!

revka · December 2001

Hi Folks- For those interested, you'll now find information on many 2002 vehicles in our Maintenance Guide. As mentioned before, you can look up vehicle information (Manufacturer-recommended Service Schedules, Recalls, and TSBs) as far back as 1990. Happy motoring!

Revka
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0patience · December 2001

Edmunds has info from NHTSA. Ugh!!
See, the problem is that NHTSA has info different from the manufacturer. Numbers don't match, titles don't match and it generally causes big headaches.

Here is a list of TSBs for a 99 Chevy Lumina from GM's own system.

#43-17-01B BUMPS OR RUST COLORED SPOTS IN PAINT DUE TO RAIL/IRON DUST
#99-02-32-001 Power Steering Shudder/Vibration at Low Speed (replace Pwr Strg Pressure Pipe)
#99-08-45-005 Accessory Receptacle is Inoperative (Check Aftermarket Device Plug)
#00-06-02-001 Engine Runs Hot, Overheats, Loss of Coolant (Polish Filler Neck/Replace Radiator Cap)
#00-06-02-004 Brown, Gel-Like Substance on Rad. Cap/Upper Filler Neck (Replace Cap/Clean Neck)
#00-07-30-007 Whine Noise in Part/Neutral, SES Light On (Replace Drive Sprocket Support Bearing)
#00-07-30-002A Slips, Harsh Upshift, Launch Shudders (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assm)
#00-08-51-001 Outside Rear View Mirror Housing Turns Chalky/Dull (Color/Clear Coat Mirror)
#01-06-01-008 Engine Oil Pan Leak (Seal with RTV Sealant)
#99-06-03-007C Fuel Gage Inaccurate/Fluctuates, Premature Low Fuel Chime (Exchange Instrument Panel Cluster, Replace Fuel Level Sensor, Reprogram EEPROM)
#99-01-39-004A Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit)
#99-06-04-005B Driveability Symptoms Due to Clogged Fuel Injectors (Clean Injectors)
#01-07-30-032 Transmission Oil Leaking from Tranmission Vent (Replace Transmission Case Cover Gasket/Channel Plate Gasket with New Design Gasket)
#01-03-10-009 Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add Sealant to all Covers)

And this is the list that Edmunds came up with from NHTSA.

1.POWER TRAIN:AXLE ASSEMBLY NHTSA Number: SB611290
Bulletin Number: 000730002
Bulletin Date: FEB 2000
2.VISUAL SYSTEMS:MIRRORS:REARVIEW:EXTERIOR NHTSA Number: SB6092333
Bulletin Number: 000851001
Bulletin Date: SEP 2000
3.ENGINE:GASKETS:OIL PAN NHTSA Number: SB619177
Bulletin Number: 010601008
Bulletin Date: FEB 2001
4.ENGINE NHTSA Number: SB620810
Bulletin Number: 010601010A
Bulletin Date: JUN 2001
5.MANUFACTURERS INFORMATION TO DEALERS NHTSA Number: SB623615
Bulletin Number: 32
Bulletin Date: FEB 2001
6.ENGINE NHTSA Number: SB602745
Bulletin Number: 98059
Bulletin Date: OCT 1998
7.EQUIPMENT:OTHER LABELS NHTSA Number: SB605963
Bulletin Number: 98067
Bulletin Date: MAY 1999
8.STRUCTURE NHTSA Number: SB606542
Bulletin Number: 99017
Bulletin Date: APR 1999
9.INTERIOR SYSTEMS:INSTRUMENT PANEL:GAUGE:INDICATOR: NHTSA Number: SB607586
Bulletin Number: 990603007
Bulletin Date: AUG 1999
10.INTERIOR SYSTEMS:INSTRUMENT PANEL:GAUGE:INDICATOR: NHTSA Number: SB6088901
Bulletin Number: 990603007A
Bulletin Date: OCT 1999
11.INTERIOR SYSTEMS:INSTRUMENT PANEL:GAUGE:INDICATOR: NHTSA Number: SB609721
Bulletin Number: 990603007B
Bulletin Date: JAN 2000
12.INTERIOR SYSTEMS:INSTRUMENT PANEL:GAUGE:INDICATOR: NHTSA Number: SB619369
Bulletin Number: 990603007C
Bulletin Date: APR 2001
13.ENGINE NHTSA Number: SB619360
Bulletin Number: 990604005A
Bulletin Date: APR 2001
14.POWER TRAIN:AXLE ASSEMBLY NHTSA Number: SB6089996
Bulletin Number: 990730030
Bulletin Date: DEC 1999
15.POWER TRAIN:AXLE ASSEMBLY NHTSA Number: SB619370
Bulletin Number: 990730030A
Bulletin Date: APR 2001

revka · December 2001

Yes I see your point. But I think for most people, this nhtsa information gives them something to start with, not to mention, it's free. Certainly beats walking into the dealer service totally blind... imho. My own dealer has usually been able to find the corresponding manufacturer service procedure when I've provided him with the nhtsa tsb number and description. Anyway, just my 2 cents. Thanks for your feedback. ;-)

Revka
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