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It looks like to me that they are marking up the lease via 1 point in the residual and a small increase in the MF.
regards,
kyfdx
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reellaw here- With the options I want on the 330 all wheel drive the MSRP is $43,195--
Thanks so much--
First time posting here.
I have an offer from local dealer on Odyssey EX with leater/DVD for $306.60 with $3K down.
That $3K includes tax, which is 5%.
And, it's 3 year lease with 12000mile/year.
It think it's pretty good deal, but I'm afraid that there might be a catch here...
What do you think?
what is the residual on this van? I was thinking about selling it myself after the lease expires, assuming under 40k miles at the end of lease.
Will I be upside down?
thanks
regards,
kyfdx
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Actually I was thinking about paying whatever the lease buyout is and selling it privately cause the resale is so strong on this van.
regards,
kyfdx
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1. I have the ability to use a friends and family discount on the Xfire and was wondering how that works and what it would work out to be in a 36 month lease (15K miles)
2. I've heard that these aren't selling as well and was hoping to see if there are any lease deals going on, I was reading on the Xfire board that a dealor in Floriday has these for 299 a month for I think 39 months or something close to those wear abouts. I was wondering if I was able to get a dealor up here to match that or don't you think I'd come anywhere near it. I talked to a dealor today who said they haven't sold one in rouphly 5 months and has 12 sitting on the lot all stick shifts. any idea as to what I might want to shoot for as for price haggling?
3. if they are dealing would it be better to have my father haggle a deal or would it be better to use the friends and family discount; also am I able to use the friends and family discount on top of what ever price I may haggle out.
Thank you, after this I plan on making my decision between the Xfire and the G sedan. both of which I like yet I'm begging to like the Xfire. now lets just hope prices work out
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I could purchase an ody ex for less than $25k around here.
Of course I will have to start all over again after I sold the van
Tough, tough decision...
been getting some conflicting information on calculating residuals and I am hoping you can clarify for me.
When calculating the residual amount, does one multiply the MSRP and residual percentage or does one multiply the Cap cost and residual percentage.
It seems to me that the former would be a better method b/c it would standardize residual values but logic seems often defeated in the realm of car buying.
Thanks!
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Please let me know if you have any other questions.
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My current car is an I-30 and the lease ends on Feb 21. I have not gone (nor will I go) over my allotted miles. I have paid the last month's payment of $430, so effectively the car is mine until Feb 21 at no additional cost.
The dealer for the 2004 will not allow me to push my deal into February, as he claims (probably correctly) that he cannot predict money factor or residual will be. Currently, money factor is .00164 and residual on the lease (15k miles) is 53%
What is the risk that the money factor on this car will go up and the residual go down in Feb? I figure that each point of residual loss equals $330 in total cost over a 39 month lease, so if the resid moves down 2 points, I lose ($660 vs. 430 sunk cost). The interest rate (money factor) is even more impacting, although I am assuming that Infiniti will continue to support this car.
Any suggestions?
MSPR on Odyssey EX-L/RES is $30480 and selling price is $28590.
I'm trading in 2000 Toyota Corolla VE with A/C and automatic tran. (no power window and lock).
It has 54000 miles on it.
I bought Corolla back in Jan. 2002 and it was previously a rental car. It has little dent on front side(size of business card).
I know Edmunds.com recommends no downpayment for lease, but I'm going to put down $3K (including everything, title, fee, etc..)
Thank you!!!
This is the first lease that I've turned in. Can I call the Cadillac dealer and just go in to have them inspect it? The car is flawless both inside and out and I have 15k fewer miles than I leased for. The only question I have is about the tires. I put the little sheet that GMAC sent me in the grooves and in a few places I can barely see the orange (that tells you the tread is low) but it's highly subjective.
If I DO have to replace the tires (or tire?) I want to do it myself because I have a coupon to get the same tire for "Buy 3 get one free". I'm just concerned that they will want me to leave the vehicle there after they inspect it.
I realize, of course, that I have paid for the vehicle until April 28th but I'm thinking they'll have to reinspect the car again when I bring it back (is that a bad thing?)
Thanks in advance.
Do you have access to any special financing rates manufacturers offer for their certified pre-owned (or a comparable program) cars? Subsidized financing rates are easy to find for new cars (e.g., Edmunds Incentives and Rebates), not so easy for pre-owned cars. I know at least Lexus is currently offering one, but was wondering if there were others.
Thanks in advance.
Although I originally was very enthusiastic about leasing because I wouldn't have to worry about trade-in or sale issues and the fact of owning a depreciating asset, I've now decided that I'm probably not the prime candidate for leasing (at least not longer than 2 years.)
My first lease, a 2001 Cadillac STS, went very well at the dealer. I negotiated a great residual and low money factor as well as a low purchase price. Two things made this lease, however, terrible for me.
First, I negotiated a 15k/yr lease because I lived so far from my office. In the first year of my lease I moved closer to my office (When I should now have 43k miles I only have 29k).
Second, my car is a lemon. From the first week until just last week the car has been in and out of the service department at least every other month. I tried to go through the BBB arbitration but since the problem was intermittent they ruled against me (That process is such a joke, the dealership had report after report of the problem but just because it didn't happen in our 15 minute ride around their parking lot, they ruled that it didn't exist!). I then got a Lemon Law attorney. We ended up settling out of court for $2,500 but they wouldn't do what I originally wanted and just take it back and let me out of the lease.
Now, I'm faced with bringing the car back and, although they will profit from the excellent condition and low, low miles, I have to replace the tires before I turn it in.
I guess I've learned that, for me anyway, owning a car brings much better peace of mind because when I want to get rid of it, I can and I don't have to worry about how many or few miles I put on it.
regards,
kyfdx
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Also, I wouldn't worry about the tires unless they are completely bald. I turned in vehicles with 36k and 39k on their original tires. In both cases, I was not charged. You have 29k on yours so unless you have a heavy right foot, your tires should have enough tread. Worse comes to worst, if you find out they will charge you at lease turn-in inspection (I think most leasing companies do this), install the cheapest tires you can find.
Funny thing about the tires (if I do have to replace them) is that with the option package I ordered with 17" wheels, the CHEAPEST tires are the ones it came with (Goodyear Eagle (something-or-other) ) and I've only been able to find tires that same size in more expensive tires. Hopefully though, it won't be an issue.
Pgill: I do NOT think that the lease was the best thing for this vehicle. My attorney told me that if it would have been a purchased car Cadillac would have just taken it back through the Lemon Law. He's seen them do it on much lesser problems. He said they always want to settle for cash on the leases because they know that the leasee is stuck in the lease.
Regarding selling it. I would have no problem selling it. The car still has another year left on the warranty and I figure people who buy used cars take that risk.
Interesting observation about he Lemon Law. I've seen other cases where car companies offered to buy back the car or replace with upgraded car...did you lease it through GMAC?
#1. when I was shopping for a new car, my original dealership (nissan which also sold volvos and jeeps), offered to absorb the remaining 2 months of my lease if i bought my car from them. Now, part of this would probably have been factored in the price the dealership would be willing to negotiate but if knew what you were doing, it would still work. You should let the dealer know that he can have your business immediately if he makes that concession. Bottom line is, you have to take an aggressive tack and get what you want asap. The closer you get to your lease-end, the less leverage you'll have.
#2. Why an I-35? there are so many great cars in that price range - i just can't fathom buying a souped-up maxima of yesteryear. the G35 and acura TL come to mind as great alternatives.
I am considering leasing a 2004 Honda Accord LX 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5M). This is my first lease and I want to ensure that I have not overlooked any viable alternatives.
For those who may not be familiar with Honda’s current lease incentives on the new 2004 Accord LX, here are the details:
2004 Accord LX Sedan with Automatic Transmission (Model CM5634PLW)
36 Months
$239.00 per month
$999.00 down payment
$1488.00 total due at signing
$999.00 down
239.00 first payment
250.00 security deposit
$1488.00
$20,590.00 MSRP (including destination charge)
$19,133.54 actual net capital cost
$11,942.20 purchase option residual value
12,000 miles per year (0.15 in excess thereof)
The promotional lease factors in a dealer discount of only $457.46 off of MSRP. I feel that I may be able to structure a purchase close to invoice since Honda offers a dealer holdback of 3%, which is still a handsome profit if the car has not been on the lot long.
On to the questions
1. Car-man you previously stated that American Honda Finance imposes a $550 acquisition fee, but I do not see one listed on the Accord lease promotion. Am I safe in assuming that the acquisition fee is waived for all Accord leases receiving the promoted .00126 money factor?
2. As I stated earlier, I am interested in a Honda Accord LX 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5M). Is a negotiated purchase price of $17,864 ($17,374 + $490 destination charge) with an MSRP of $19,790 (including destination charge) feasible?
Below you will find my calculations for a 36 month lease:
$17,864 purchase price
$11,478 residual value (58% of MSRP)
.00126 American Honda Finance Corp promotional base lease money factor
$214.36 monthly payment (without tax)
$214.36 (first payment) + $225 (security deposit) + $550 (acquisition fee) = 989.36 at signing
3. Am I using the correct residual value for this vehicle? Car_man, would you also please provide me with the residual values for the Honda Accord EX 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5M)?
4. Could I have the acquisition fee added to the adjusted capital cost to minimize the outlay at signing? Doing so would increase my payment to $230.33 (without tax).
5. I am concerned I might exceed the yearly allotted mileage. What would the residual values be for the Accord LX 5A, LX 5M, EX 5M with 15,000 allotted miles? I assume increasing the mileage and lowering the residual value would be preferable to purchasing miles at origination for 0.05.
6. Are there any other fees or expenses I am omitting? I realize I probably need to factor in approximately $270 for license, tag, title and miscellaneous fees.
Additional benefits I discovered through hondafinancialservices.com:
No disposition fees on leases
Waiver of excess wear and use charges up to $1,500
Gap coverage included at no charge
It is unfortunate that the gap coverage is only included in New York leases.
7. I do not have too much confidence in the $1,500 waiver. I am certain the $225 security deposit will find a way to end up with Honda or are they fair in determining reasonable wear and tear? Is it naive to think I may have the security deposit refunded? Will the waiver cover tire wear?
8. Ideally, I would like to upgrade to an Acura at the end of the lease term. Apart from having the security deposit waived on the new lease, are there any other benefits I should be aware of?
Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
regards,
kyfdx
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I just did the same thingie...
regards,
kyfdx
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You are really providing a really valuable service and it is appreciated. You have helped me before. I am currently considering a 39 month lease or 42 whatever they are offering for either car. I live in NY(Westchester County)and want a lease with 15,000 miles per year. What are the incentives, money factor, and residuals for each of these cars. I currently own an Audi 1.8 quattro and also would like to know if they are offering any current Audi owner incentives.
Thanks for your help.
I keep hearing people talk about a waiver. Is that something that was in your lease contract or just something that certain manufacturers do? I don't see it anywhere in my GMAC lease.
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