I was looking at a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer on a 38 month RCO with a 39th month balloon payment. I live in NY where most leasing has gone away. When I asked the salesman about the taxes that I woudl have to pay, he told me I would pay taxes on the MSRP. I said no way. I could only see paying tax on the amount of payments over the 38 months and the balloon. Am I correct, or have they found another way to get us?
I have leased before and only paid on the value of the lease. I am not familiar with the RCO/balloon payment method.
Hi CarMan - I went to contract on a 2004 BMW X3 3.0 at the end of August, but the car hasn't been delivered yet. Has the money factor for this improved since August, and if it has, can I revise my deal with BMWFS? Or, might the residual have changed as well (12K, 39mo), resulting in no change in monthly payment? Thanks, CarMan.
My mother is going to be leasing a 2004 Honda Civix EX-4dr., she thinks the sticker price is about $19,000. She wants to lease for 36 or 39 months with 12,000 miles per year and put $0 down. What should she be able to negotiate down to on the price and what type of lease payment would she have. what are the residuals and money factors? the dealer told her to come back today b/c they make their best deals on labor day. (we'll see). also, if putting nothing down, what should she be paying that first day (first month plus what are the fees)? we live in NJ. also, any dealer incentives we should know about? your help will be greatly appreciated. thanks. nicole
In a previous message, it was noted that Leasing should be done at $0 down only to protect in case the car is stolen or totalled in an accident. I was under the assumption that insurance would cover the replacement cost of the vehicle, so how is the downpayment at risk? Can you give more info on this, as I was prepared to come up with a larger downpayment to decrease my monthly payments. Thanks -- Michael
In another posting you mention that some dealers / banks are limiting lease financing on 2004 models due to the decreasing residuals. At this point in the year am I typically better off only considering 2005 models, as opposed to hunting for a good deals on 2004 mmodels? Any known exceptions? Thanks again -- Michael
I am assuming that the Ford Motor Credit Red Carpet Option is virtually the same as GMAC's SmartBuy, which it likely is. In New York State, with a SmartBuy contract, you do have to pay the sales tax on the price of the vehicle, and not just the payments that you are leasing. This is because the vehicle is titled in your name, and not the bank's. However, at the 39th month, if you choose to pay the balloon payment, there is no sales tax.
You're welcome, toyota1. It is difficult for me to say what your lease payment should be on this truck, including tax because I am not familiar with the tax laws in your area. However, I can tell you that the quote of $450 per month that you were given is definitely too high.
I would be more than happy to give you an idea of what Mazda's new September incentives are like when I have an opportunity to take a look at them, cjs2002. Just post a quick reminder in this discussion for me towards the end of the week. Talk to you then.
If you order a BMW, zimp4us, you have the ability to lock in the lease program that is available on it at the time of your order for a couple of months. Doing so gives you the option to use that program, or the one that is available when you physically take delivery of your ordered vehicle. The best time to lease a convertible is definitely not during the summer. As you could imagine, they sell much better during the summer than during the winter. BMW is not currently providing any sort of lease support on 3-Series convertibles, but there is a very good chance that it will have to introduce support on them later on this year.
Hi pmiller1. The problem with your assessment of your situation is that you are comparing your vehicle's lease-end purchase price with its current value. Its residual value is its selling price if you were to buy your car two years from now. You have to place a call to the bank that you are leasing your Maxima through, most likely Nissan Motor Acceptance Corp., to see exactly how much money it would cost you to buy your car at this time. It is definitely going to be much higher than $9,000 and probably will be significantly higher than the $11,000 estimate that you have of its current market value. Furthermore, when consumers purchase their leased vehicle well before its scheduled end, most banks will require them to make any remaining payments. As you can imagine this adds up to a lot of money. I am sorry to say that it is almost never cheap to get out of a leased vehicle several years prior to its scheduled end.
Hi Tony. Taxes are calculated differently on balloon notes than they are on leases in many states. Taxes on balloon notes are usually higher than on leases, but I am not familiar with exactly how taxes are calculated on balloon notes in New York. You may be able to find out more informaiton on this subject by visiting one of the following Web sites though: New York State Department of Taxation and Finance or New York State Department of Motor Vehicles Internet Office.
Hey njdriver1. BMW's lease money factors on the 2004 X3 were reduced for September. BMW FS' current base lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month 12,000 miles per year lease of a 2004 BMW X3 3.0 are .00050 and 59%, respectively. I am not sure that this program is available for 39 month terms like it was last month through. If you locked in this model's lease program when you placed your order for it, you should be able to either use the lease program that was available when then or the one that is available at the time of delivery, whichever is better.
My son leased a car under his name with a 2001 Honda Civic (new). The understanding was that the step-daughter would make all payments and also pay for the insurance, etc. At some point she stopped making payments and when the dealer called her, she said she was turning the car in which she did shortly thereafter. Her mother went with her to turn it in. She is now divorced from my son.
Honda accepted the car, resold it and wants my son to pay the balance of $5,000. He signed the lease but was not told she couldn't make payments and would turn it in. My son would have kept the car for himself.
Greetings Nicole. You should be able to get a good idea of what sort of price your month should pay for the 2004 Honda Civic that your mother is interested in by looking up its exact dealer invoice price in the New Vehicle Pricing Section of Edmunds.com. I suspect that you will be able to find a dealer that is willing to lease your mother this car right at invoice because they will profit from the $400 dealer cash that Honda is providing on it right now. Actually, Honda's dealer cash and lease program on the 2004 Civic are only scheduled to run through tomorrow, September 7th. Please feel free to check back with me a few days after that, with this car's full MSRP, selling price, how long your mother wants to lease it for, and how many miles per year she needs to be able to drive it and I would be more than happy to calculate a sample lease payment on it for you.
In answer to your question about what you should have to pay at lease signing, most banks require that you pay your vehicle's first month's payment, a security deposit that is equivalent to that payment rounded up to the nearest $25 increment, and a lease acquisition fee (which in Honda's case should be $595).
Michael, there's no good reason to make a down payment when leasing. When your vehicle is in an accident, your insurance company pays the bank that you were leasing it through its current market value. No money from this transaction goes to you, the lessee. Not only that, but down payments on leased vehicles do absolutely nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So let's say that you are interested in leasing a Honda Civic. Its lease-end purchase price would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $5,000 down or had made absolutely no down payment at all. You would be better off using the money that you would have used as a down payment to subsidize your monthly payment on your own or pay a few of them for you. Another option is to use the money to make additional security deposits if the bank that you are leasing through allows consumers to make them. Doing so enables you to reduce your monthly lease payment by buying down the interest rate and assuming that you are not over your allotted mileage and your vehicle has no excess wear and tear, you actually get that money back at the end of your lease.
Michael, at this point in the model year whether it is better to lease a 2004 model or a 2005 model depends upon the model that you are considering since vehicles' lease programs are so different. If you tell me which vehicle or vehicles you are considering and provide me with their full MSRPs and selling prices I can work up sample lease payments on both the '04 and '05 versions of it and we can see which is the better option at this point.
Thanks Again Car_man! The tax in NYS is 8.25%, which would equate to about $2303.40. I was planning on going back tomorrow with some ammunition to get him to a lower pmt per month at 36 months with no money down. Also, wouldn't the residual be higher for 36 months vs 48 months and as stated, he told me that the money factor is 5%. Your expertise is appreciated!!!
Down payment only reduces the lease payments, not the depreciated value of the car. Car gets totalled the bank gets paid by the insurance co. and you get zero.
I'm interested in leasing an MDX with Nav for 36 months 12K in NJ. Could you let me know the current residual, money factor and incentives if any. Please provide the number for both '04 & '05 if you have it.
As an alternative, I'm also considering an Audi allroad with "typical equipped options". I would appreaciate the numbers for it as well. Same type of deal.
Thanks, Car_man. I think I'll order my convertible in December or January for late winter/early spring delivery. Any thoughts? BTW, I live in South Dakota.
Hello Car_man. I am in a difficult situation with my current vehicle, so I wanted to come to you for advice. I am currently leasing a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. The lease matures in January of '05 and my last payment is due on December 27th. I am paying $554 a month and I am going to be around 8,000 miles over (due to excessive driving early on) when I turn in my lease. The excess mileage charge is .12 per mile and the disposition fee is $300, so it looks like I am going to owe the bank around $1300...give or take a few hundred dollars. The highest trade value I have been offered for the Jeep is $12,700, which is a little higher than it is listed on KBB. The buyout, which is an option with the bank, is $14,700. I have tried to sell the vehicle over the past month or so using the local paper, but no one has called at this point in time.
I qualify for the GMS discount and am looking at a 2004 Saab 9-3 Linear lease. A lease makes sense now that I drive a similar number of miles each year. The Saab 9-3 numbers look pretty good on paper. Here is the breakdown...MSRP: $30,070; GMS Price: $27,422; 3,500 lease cash from Saab; Residual: 44%; Acquisition Fee: $795; Money Factor: .00114; No Security Deposit. The monthly payment ends up around $385, which is great....we save $170 a month compared to the Jeep!
The real dilemma we are facing is when (or if) we should be pull the trigger on the Saab 9-3? According to the 2 dealers I have talked to, it appears the 2004 models priced around $30,000 are becoming harder and harder to find. Also, I am not sure if the lease inceptives will be as good on the 2005 model in January. Our goal is to stay in the $370-$385 payment range, so we do not want to spend much more than $30,000 on the 9-3. That being said...if we pay $2,000 out of pocket (this month) to eat up the negative equity in the Jeep...we will be able to lease the 9-3 according to the terms I listed above. Over the next 5 months we will be paying the $2000 whether we use it to buy out the negative equity to trade in the Jeep to Saab or we use the money to continue paying the bank ($680 diff in payments and $1300 in bank fees). It almost makes sense to cut the check now and lease the 9-3.
Sorry for the long message, but I do not want to leave out any details. I am leaning toward paying the Saab dealership $2000 and having them take the Jeep off my hands. I just want to make sure (A) we are getting a good deal on the 2004 9-3 model and (B) I am not missing anything with the Jeep transaction. Thank you very much for your help. I am looking forward to your reply.
Hello Car_man. I am in a difficult situation with my current vehicle, so I wanted to come to you for advice. I am currently leasing a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. The lease matures in January of '05 and my last payment is due on December 27th. I am paying $554 a month and I am going to be around 8,000 miles over (due to excessive driving early on) when I turn in my lease. The excess mileage charge is .12 per mile and the disposition fee is $300, so it looks like I am going to owe the bank around $1300...give or take a few hundred dollars. The highest trade value I have been offered for the Jeep is $12,700, which is a little higher than it is listed on KBB. The buyout, which is an option with the bank, is $14,700. I have tried to sell the vehicle over the past month or so using the local paper, but no one has called at this point in time.
I qualify for the GMS discount and am looking at a 2004 Saab 9-3 Linear lease. A lease makes sense now that I drive a similar number of miles each year. The Saab 9-3 numbers look pretty good on paper. Here is the breakdown...MSRP: $30,070; GMS Price: $27,422; 3,500 lease cash from Saab; Residual: 44%; Acquisition Fee: $795; Money Factor: .00114; No Security Deposit. The monthly payment ends up around $385, which is great....we save $170 a month compared to the Jeep!
The real dilemma we are facing is when (or if) we should be pull the trigger on the Saab 9-3? According to the 2 dealers I have talked to, it appears the 2004 models priced around $30,000 are becoming harder and harder to find. Also, I am not sure if the lease inceptives will be as good on the 2005 model in January. Our goal is to stay in the $370-$385 payment range, so we do not want to spend much more than $30,000 on the 9-3. That being said...if we pay $2,000 out of pocket (this month) to eat up the negative equity in the Jeep...we will be able to lease the 9-3 according to the terms I listed above. Over the next 5 months we will be paying the $2000 whether we use it to buy out the negative equity to trade in the Jeep to Saab or we use the money to continue paying the bank ($680 diff in payments and $1300 in bank fees). It almost makes sense to cut the check now and lease the 9-3.
Sorry for the long message, but I do not want to leave out any details. I am leaning toward paying the Saab dealership $2000 and having them take the Jeep off my hands. I just want to make sure (A) we are getting a good deal on the 2004 9-3 model and (B) I am not missing anything with the Jeep transaction. Thank you very much for your help. I am looking forward to your reply.
Hi mk2. Acura has never provided any sort of cash incentives or lease support on the MDX. I suspect that this trend will continue when its new September program is introduced on the 8th. As you can imagine, I have not seen its new lease program for this model yet. Audi's new lease program for the allroad does not come out until the 8th either. I would be more than happy to try to give you an idea of what its September program is like if you check back with me with a quick reminder towards the end of the week. When you do so, make sure to let me know what state you are in. Talk to you then.
You're welcome, zimp4us. While there definitely is no guarantee that BMW will have more lease support on 3-Series convertibles this winter I personally feel as though there is a very good chance that will be the case.
Hello pacerfan_11. I am sorry to hear that you are over your mileage allowance on your lease. To look at the bright side of things, 8,000 miles over really isn't that bad. I have seen people who were much much further over their allowed mileage than that. Looking at the details that you have provided on your situation, I feel as though you would probably be best off just paying your excess mileage penalty and walking away from your Jeep. It does not sound as though its lease-end purchase option price is low enough to justify purchasing it and trying to trade it in or sell it on your own.
I see that you are definitely in good shape with your next lease. Saabs make great vehicles to lease because they have tons of support on them. They are even better when one qualifies for GM's supplier purchase program. Of course it is difficult to predict what an automaker will do with its incentives with 100% accuracy, but despite the fact that Saab has not introduced any sort of lease support on 2005 models yet, I would be shocked if it did not provide a similar level of support on its '05s when they are introduced.
The bottom line is that I feel as though you are getting a good deal on the Saab that you are interested in, but believe that similar deals on this car will be around when you are in the market for it this winter. If you are sure that it will only cost you $2,000 to get out of your leased Jeep now and that you would have to pay $2,000 to turn it in at the end of your lease then I do not see anything wrong with trying to get out of your Jeep at this point. However, I suspect that there is a good chance that there will be a bigger difference between the cost for you to get out of your Jeep at this time and at the end of your lease than you think.
Hi mojito89. I would be more than happy to give you my opinion on the deal that you were quoted. However, in order for me to do so, I need you to tell me this car's full MSRP, selling price, and how many miles per year you are allowed to drive it. This car's prices are important for you as a consumer to know anyhow because the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without these numbers, it is difficult to tell how good a deal you are getting.
Here are the stats: MSRP 39,265, Price 35,845, $ Down 2,000, PA Lease 9%, 48/15,000, Residual .38, Money .00034
If Invoice is $35,500 and Wholesale is $30,500, why is the dealer saying that he won't budge from the $35,845 price. It seems that there should be more room to play with that lease price figure. Why am I paying more than invoice on this car? Dealer says that $35,845 is his final number otherwise he takes a hit. Is that true? Is this deal as good as it gets or am I just being stubborn?
Thanks for the reply. I was aware of that. My question had to do with the dealer telling me that the sales tax would be paid on the MSRP price. In my mind, I should only have to pay on the total of all payments, any upfront cap cost reduction (downpayment) and the balloon. In this case, he stated that the MSRP was $33,000. The total of all payments was $27,000. My thinking is that I should only pay tax on $27,000.
I guess that makes my decision easy; I will not get a MB.
MBs are overpriced, they have poor reliability and for 2005 they don’t include scheduled maintenance. That was OK with me, but now with the $1800 initiation fee in NY and very poor financing rates, the company has gone too far. I’ll stick with BMW.
Can you post the latest residuals and money factors for BMW 545.
Question number 8? 10? bah who is really counting? In my continued quest for a "family" vehicle I am drawn to the lease deals on BMW's right now. Could you give me the MF and Residuals for the following? Is there a difference in residual between manual and auto?
Car // Length // Miles per Year X5 3.0 // 36 // 15,000 X3 2.5 // 36 // 15,000 X3 3.0 // 36 // 15,000 325i // 36 // 15,000 330i // 36 // 15,000
If there are any manufacturer incentives that would help as well and if 39 is a better term I am fine with that.
What address should I send bribe to for your continued support?
I am looking at a new Acura TSX and during one visit the sales person suggested that I take a lease, even though I do about 25,000 miles a year.
Here is his logic:
I drive 25,000 miles a year for 4 years = 100,000 miles Lease at 15,000 miles a year with a residual of lets say $16,000 and 15c/mile. Trade in value of car after 4 years (with 100,000 miles) will probably be as low as $8,000. Difference between residual and market value is $8,000. Excess mileage after 4 years will be 40,000 miles or $6,000.
This in essence gives a "saving" of $2,000.
- Is this logic sound, or am I being duped by my ignorance? - What are best options for a high mileage operation?
A nice theory, but.. That only works out if the car is indeed worth $8000 at the end of the lease... I don't think I'd want to take that kind of chance.. Plus the car will be out of warranty for the last two years of the lease.. Leaving you potentially liable for large repairs on a car you don't own.... The idea of a lease is to pay as you go.. You are basically building up negative equity (the mileage penalty). That is never a good idea.
"If Invoice is $35,500 and Wholesale is $30,500, why is the dealer saying that he won't budge from the $35,845 price."
If I understand the question, you are referring to the $5000 dealer cash that is available on the X-type at the moment. Unfortunately, it is not available if you lease or finance the car through Jaguar.
Generally, they sell the mileage at a rate that is higher than actual depreciation so they can make a profit on the mileage fee and the sale of the car. Plus it will be likely you will not use all the miles you paid for and if you go over, you pay a penalty, so they are ahead either way. It makes no sense for them to sell you mileage at a loss.
The idea sounds pretty good to me. 15 cents a mile for a car like that is *cheap* money. And if it's worth less than $8k at the end, it's the leasing co's problem.... only if it is worth MORE does the lease become a worse deal. I still wouldn't do it because I like more control over my cars, but that's me.
And no, there isn't any truly cheap way to put 100k on a really nice car. Sorry :-)
Hey Damon. I have seen this van's current lease program and would be more than happy to help you out. If you were to lease a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country LX through Chrysler Financial in your area right now for 36 months with 12,000 miles per year, its base lease money factor and residual value should be around .00246 and 48%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical 39 month lease of this van should be .00306 and 46%. When negotiating your lease on this vehicle, keep in mind that DaimlerChrysler is providing $1,000 lease cash PLUS $1,500 Chrysler Financial Bonus Cash for a total of $2,500 that you can use to help you negotiate a more attractive capitalized cost.
Hello joserob. Let's take a look at the deal that you have on the table. You never mentioned which model X-Type you are getting, but based upon the prices that you mentioned, I assume that we are talking about the 3.0. I do not believe that Jaguar is providing any cash incentives on '04 X-Type 3.0 leases right now, so if that is the model that you are getting, the selling price of just under $400 over invoice that you were able to negotiate is very reasonable. Jaguar Credit's base lease money factor for a 4 year lease of this model is only .00017. You were quoted a higher factor than this and should find out why that is the case. Using the numbers that you provided in your post, I come up with a 4 year, 15,000 miles per zero down, pre-tax monthly lease payment of around $445 for this car. I based this payment upon no money down because it is in your best interest as a consumer not to make any sort of capitalized cost reduction when leasing. Consumers can and should lease any vehicle that they want, only having to pay their first month's payment, a security deposit of that payment rounded up the nearest $25 or $50 increment, and their bank's lease acquisition fee (which I believe is $495 with Jaguar Credit) at signing.
You're very welcome, gregi30. I'd be more than happy to give you an idea of what the current lease program is like on the 2004 BMW 545i, but in order for me to do so I need to know how long you plan on leasing it for and how many miles per year you need to be able to drive it.
Hi All My old car is about to die..it will not survive in this winter in Michigan. So I need a car..but here's the dilemma...I am planning to buy a mini van after 2 yrs from now (family will expand) But I don't want to start paying high month payments just now and plus it will be under utilized. So I don't want to buy mini van right now.
Then what are my options ? Should I lease a car for 2 yrs? or buy a used one? or buy a new one and then trade-in? My priorities are simple: want to keep payments low as possible for 2 yrs and need a reliable car that will trouble in winter
Hey pktrckt. That's quite a list of cars you're interested in. I can definitely see why you are cross-shopping them though. The 3 year, 15,000 miles per base lease money factors and residual values for these vehicles are as follows: .00100 and 58% for the 2004 X5 3.0, .00070 and 57% for the 2004 X3 2.5, .00050 and 57% for the 2004 X3 3.0, .00220 and 59% for the 2004 325i, and .00150 and 55% for the 2004 330i. BMW has $1,500 dealer cash on the 2004 325i and $3,000 on the 2004 330i that will help you to negotiate a more attractive capitalized cost.
As far as bribes go, please fold up a $20 bill and insert it into your CD Rom drive. I used to take bribes in the form of alcohol, but it made a terrible mess when people poured it in .
Thanks much for the information. Rates and residual not as supported as I had hoped for at this time. I think I am going to wait until the new Odyssey comes out before making a final decision.
I’m looking for a 36 months lease, 10k miles/year. Can you give me both, for 2004 and 2005. My current lease ends in December, so I still have some time.
Also, what is the bank fee that BMW charges these days.
Comments
I was looking at a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer on a 38 month RCO with a 39th month balloon payment. I live in NY where most leasing has gone away.
When I asked the salesman about the taxes that I woudl have to pay, he told me I would pay taxes on the MSRP. I said no way. I could only see paying tax on the amount of payments over the 38 months and the balloon. Am I correct, or have they found another way to get us?
I have leased before and only paid on the value of the lease. I am not familiar with the RCO/balloon payment method.
Thanks,
Tony
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2001 Honda Civic (new). The understanding was
that the step-daughter would make all payments
and also pay for the insurance, etc. At some
point she stopped making payments and when the
dealer called her, she said she was turning the
car in which she did shortly thereafter. Her
mother went with her to turn it in. She is now divorced from my son.
Honda accepted the car, resold it and wants my
son to pay the balance of $5,000. He signed
the lease but was not told she couldn't make
payments and would turn it in. My son would
have kept the car for himself.
What does one do in a situation like this?
In answer to your question about what you should have to pay at lease signing, most banks require that you pay your vehicle's first month's payment, a security deposit that is equivalent to that payment rounded up to the nearest $25 increment, and a lease acquisition fee (which in Honda's case should be $595).
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As an alternative, I'm also considering an Audi allroad with "typical equipped options". I would appreaciate the numbers for it as well. Same type of deal.
Thanks,
mk2
I qualify for the GMS discount and am looking at a 2004 Saab 9-3 Linear lease. A lease makes sense now that I drive a similar number of miles each year. The Saab 9-3 numbers look pretty good on paper. Here is the breakdown...MSRP: $30,070; GMS Price: $27,422; 3,500 lease cash from Saab; Residual: 44%; Acquisition Fee: $795; Money Factor: .00114; No Security Deposit. The monthly payment ends up around $385, which is great....we save $170 a month compared to the Jeep!
The real dilemma we are facing is when (or if) we should be pull the trigger on the Saab 9-3? According to the 2 dealers I have talked to, it appears the 2004 models priced around $30,000 are becoming harder and harder to find. Also, I am not sure if the lease inceptives will be as good on the 2005 model in January. Our goal is to stay in the $370-$385 payment range, so we do not want to spend much more than $30,000 on the 9-3. That being said...if we pay $2,000 out of pocket (this month) to eat up the negative equity in the Jeep...we will be able to lease the 9-3 according to the terms I listed above. Over the next 5 months we will be paying the $2000 whether we use it to buy out the negative equity to trade in the Jeep to Saab or we use the money to continue paying the bank ($680 diff in payments and $1300 in bank fees). It almost makes sense to cut the check now and lease the 9-3.
Sorry for the long message, but I do not want to leave out any details. I am leaning toward paying the Saab dealership $2000 and having them take the Jeep off my hands. I just want to make sure (A) we are getting a good deal on the 2004 9-3 model and (B) I am not missing anything with the Jeep transaction. Thank you very much for your help. I am looking forward to your reply.
I qualify for the GMS discount and am looking at a 2004 Saab 9-3 Linear lease. A lease makes sense now that I drive a similar number of miles each year. The Saab 9-3 numbers look pretty good on paper. Here is the breakdown...MSRP: $30,070; GMS Price: $27,422; 3,500 lease cash from Saab; Residual: 44%; Acquisition Fee: $795; Money Factor: .00114; No Security Deposit. The monthly payment ends up around $385, which is great....we save $170 a month compared to the Jeep!
The real dilemma we are facing is when (or if) we should be pull the trigger on the Saab 9-3? According to the 2 dealers I have talked to, it appears the 2004 models priced around $30,000 are becoming harder and harder to find. Also, I am not sure if the lease inceptives will be as good on the 2005 model in January. Our goal is to stay in the $370-$385 payment range, so we do not want to spend much more than $30,000 on the 9-3. That being said...if we pay $2,000 out of pocket (this month) to eat up the negative equity in the Jeep...we will be able to lease the 9-3 according to the terms I listed above. Over the next 5 months we will be paying the $2000 whether we use it to buy out the negative equity to trade in the Jeep to Saab or we use the money to continue paying the bank ($680 diff in payments and $1300 in bank fees). It almost makes sense to cut the check now and lease the 9-3.
Sorry for the long message, but I do not want to leave out any details. I am leaning toward paying the Saab dealership $2000 and having them take the Jeep off my hands. I just want to make sure (A) we are getting a good deal on the 2004 9-3 model and (B) I am not missing anything with the Jeep transaction. Thank you very much for your help. I am looking forward to your reply.
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I see that you are definitely in good shape with your next lease. Saabs make great vehicles to lease because they have tons of support on them. They are even better when one qualifies for GM's supplier purchase program. Of course it is difficult to predict what an automaker will do with its incentives with 100% accuracy, but despite the fact that Saab has not introduced any sort of lease support on 2005 models yet, I would be shocked if it did not provide a similar level of support on its '05s when they are introduced.
The bottom line is that I feel as though you are getting a good deal on the Saab that you are interested in, but believe that similar deals on this car will be around when you are in the market for it this winter. If you are sure that it will only cost you $2,000 to get out of your leased Jeep now and that you would have to pay $2,000 to turn it in at the end of your lease then I do not see anything wrong with trying to get out of your Jeep at this point. However, I suspect that there is a good chance that there will be a bigger difference between the cost for you to get out of your Jeep at this time and at the end of your lease than you think.
Car_man
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Do you have the 36 or 39 month money factor, residual rate, and lease incentives for this car?
I am looking at 12k miles/yr, and am located in Tampa.
Thanks - Damon
MSRP 39,265,
Price 35,845,
$ Down 2,000,
PA Lease 9%, 48/15,000,
Residual .38,
Money .00034
If Invoice is $35,500 and Wholesale is $30,500, why is the dealer saying that he won't budge from the $35,845 price. It seems that there should be more room to play with that lease price figure. Why am I paying more than invoice on this car?
Dealer says that $35,845 is his final number otherwise he takes a hit. Is that true?
Is this deal as good as it gets or am I just being stubborn?
Please help!!
Thanks for the reply. I was aware of that. My question had to do with the dealer telling me that the sales tax would be paid on the MSRP price. In my mind, I should only have to pay on the total of all payments, any upfront cap cost reduction (downpayment) and the balloon. In this case, he stated that the MSRP was $33,000. The total of all payments was $27,000. My thinking is that I should only pay tax on $27,000.
I think the salesman was trying to hose me.
Thanks,
Tony
I guess that makes my decision easy; I will not get a MB.
MBs are overpriced, they have poor reliability and for 2005 they don’t include scheduled maintenance. That was OK with me, but now with the $1800 initiation fee in NY and very poor financing rates, the company has gone too far. I’ll stick with BMW.
Can you post the latest residuals and money factors for BMW 545.
Again, thank you very much for your help.
Question number 8? 10? bah who is really counting? In my continued quest for a "family" vehicle I am drawn to the lease deals on BMW's right now. Could you give me the MF and Residuals for the following? Is there a difference in residual between manual and auto?
Car // Length // Miles per Year
X5 3.0 // 36 // 15,000
X3 2.5 // 36 // 15,000
X3 3.0 // 36 // 15,000
325i // 36 // 15,000
330i // 36 // 15,000
If there are any manufacturer incentives that would help as well and if 39 is a better term I am fine with that.
What address should I send bribe to for your continued support?
Here is his logic:
I drive 25,000 miles a year for 4 years = 100,000 miles
Lease at 15,000 miles a year with a residual of lets say $16,000 and 15c/mile.
Trade in value of car after 4 years (with 100,000 miles) will probably be as low as $8,000.
Difference between residual and market value is $8,000.
Excess mileage after 4 years will be 40,000 miles or $6,000.
This in essence gives a "saving" of $2,000.
- Is this logic sound, or am I being duped by my ignorance?
- What are best options for a high mileage operation?
Thanks,
Daniel
regards,
kyfdx
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If I understand the question, you are referring to the $5000 dealer cash that is available on the X-type at the moment. Unfortunately, it is not available if you lease or finance the car through Jaguar.
It makes no sense for them to sell you mileage at a loss.
15 cents a mile for a car like that is *cheap* money.
And if it's worth less than $8k at the end, it's the leasing co's problem.... only if it is worth MORE does the lease become a worse deal.
I still wouldn't do it because I like more control over my cars, but that's me.
And no, there isn't any truly cheap way to put 100k on a really nice car. Sorry :-)
-Mathias
Car_man
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My old car is about to die..it will not survive in this winter in Michigan. So I need a car..but here's the dilemma...I am planning to buy a mini van after 2 yrs from now (family will expand) But I don't want to start paying high month payments just now and plus it will be under utilized. So I don't want to buy mini van right now.
Then what are my options ? Should I lease a car for 2 yrs? or buy a used one? or buy a new one and then trade-in? My priorities are simple: want to keep payments low as possible for 2 yrs and need a reliable car that will trouble in winter
What would you suggest?
thanks in advance-JB
As far as bribes go, please fold up a $20 bill and insert it into your CD Rom drive. I used to take bribes in the form of alcohol, but it made a terrible mess when people poured it in
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Thanks much for the information. Rates and residual not as supported as I had hoped for at this time. I think I am going to wait until the new Odyssey comes out before making a final decision.
Damon
I’m looking for a 36 months lease, 10k miles/year. Can you give me both, for 2004 and 2005. My current lease ends in December, so I still have some time.
Also, what is the bank fee that BMW charges these days.
Thanks again Car_man
Can you tell me what the new lease terms offered by American Honda are on the 2004 Odyssey's?
a) Residuals on 12K or 15k miles on a 24 mo. lease?
b) Relevant money factors?
Thanks!
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