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MSRP - $40,750 / selling price - $38,549 ($1,000 over invoice): $561
MSRP - $41,950 / selling price - $39,590 ($1,000 over invoice): $575
MSRP - $38,750 / selling price - $36,814 ($1,000 over invoice): $538
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Here are all the numbers that i have been working with:
MSRP: 35100 (+570 destinations)
Agreed selling price: most dealers will agree on 32555 (invoice+dest).
Using MF of .0024 and 59% residual (according to dealer).
My numbers indicate that i should arrive at $493 including 8% TAX (NY) with No downpayment.
Dealers consistently come up with 526 (which is exactly $1000 more then the agreed selling price of the car). I feel that they are just trying make a quick buck by assuming i dont know how lease is calculated (even though i told them i do).
Also, does AFHS charge a "bank fee"?
The best deal i was offered so far (via email) is $900 down (first+dmv+sec. deposit) and then $480 for 36/12K lease.
Thanks a lot again!
That would make up the difference between your calculations and the quotes you are getting..
regards,
kyfdx
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Caleb
So, that puts a payment on this puppy at about $544 a month, if I calculate it right(if I pay 21365)....plus 6.25% tax plus title and acquisition fee. I can actually get the much more expensive Honda Accord EX V6 with leather and Nav for a lower monthly payment than this....am I doing something wrong, or is it just the lower residual and higher money factor doing this deal in? What a shame....I was really looking forward to driving that manual with the nav!
Thanks,
Chigirl
Dennis
Other lease banks, allow for more miles (39/39k, for example) and will have a lower residual for this lease as well. This may make a 39 month lease not as much of a discount as in the first example.
I would not want to lease past the manufacturer's warranty limit. The Accord, for example is a 36/36k warranty so limit your lease to those same terms.
You can get an Accord LX I4 w/AT for around $18,200 right now and AHFC is doing a < 1% MF on the 36/36k lease. Pretty hard to beat (around $200 a month).
Dennis
But to answer your question, in most states the off lease vehicle can only go to YOU (the lessee) or a car dealer. You can't sell it direct to a 3rd party. In most states you would have to pay sales tax to get the truck in your name, then the person who buys it from you would have to pay again. This usually would wipe out most of your profit from the deal. You CAN get a dealer/broker to handle the sale for you for a fee and avoid the double taxation.
As you mentioned, you can also get a dealer to just buy the truck direct. Your lease probably has a $300-400 turn in fee that you would avoid if you get a dealer to buy the truck - plus any profit you can negotiate on the price. Keep in mind you will be looking to grab your new car at a wholesale price, so the dealer will be inclined to give you wholesale for your used one.
Also keep in mind you can get a buy out price from your lease bank at any time, and if you can get more for the truck at that time (from a dealer) than the buyout you can go ahead and "trade" for something else.
Dennis
Where is she located? It matters to try to find a cheap dealer, and because the tax situation changes from state to state.
Dennis
Thanks for the information on the Lease. In your calculations, what money factor and residual did you use? I have spoken with 3 dealerships on essentially the same transaction and the lowest pretax payment I have been offered so far is $389 with $1,000 dollars down.
Thanks for your help. I am trying to get this finalized by the end of the month.
Depreciation Fee = ( Net Cap Cost – Residual ) ÷ Term
Finance Fee = ( Net Cap Cost + Residual ) × Money Factor
Total Monthly Payment = Depreciation Fee + Finance Fee + Tax (if any)
Dennis
Could be NMAC has bad numbers on this car, or it could be the dealer makes more money on the other lease?
I would:
1) Negotiate your best price on the car
2) Compare the NMAC lease figures that car_man gives you VS what the dealer offers
3) Compare the NMAC and dealer numbers against the ones available online from leasecompare.com
4) Talk to lease-by-tel and other 3rd party lease brokers
Unless the captive lease company has a subsidized lease, quite often a 3rd party bank has a better deal. A lease agent/broker can just buy the car you want (from your dealer at your price) and lease it to you. They also have contacts and may can get a better price on the same car.
It is possible the dealer can save you money with a 3rd party bank - and this would be a sign of a good dealer. But you might can save even more with a little more effort.
Dennis
The residual goes down because the car year is progressing - the close you get to the next model year the less it will be. When you turn the truck in 3yrs from now it will be nearly 4 model years old. Wait until later in the summer and the residual will be even less to reflect this.
In a sense the selling price does go down - manufacturers will put dealer or consumer cash (or both) on models the close they get to end of year to move the "old" cars out. Dealers that may not deal on a "new" car in September will be more willing to accept a lower price the next August, etc.
The residual is set by the lease bank and can't be changed by the dealer.
The money factor is set by the lease bank, but the dealer can mark it up (to some extent) to make extra profit. Anything extra over the "buy" rate is the dealer's extra profit. car_man does a great service by posting the buy rate here, so you know what to shoot for.
Dennis
To the lease bank (and everyone else) that is a 1 1/2 year old car - no matter that it has 0 miles on it. The residual would be based on the AVERAGE expected future value of all 04 cars at the date at end of the lease. Since 99% of them will be worth a lot less than this one, then the residual will reflect this. The MF will be a "used car" MF as well.
Dennis
I'm looking for the 36, 39 and 42 month lease numbers (money factor, residual %) for 12k and 15k miles a year for the following vehicles. I found the numbers for February in searching this board, but I assume they have changed since then. Thanks.
1) BMW M3 Coupe
2) Mercedes C55 sedan
Thanks in advance!
I'm also wondering if there are any other factors in the lease calculation for the 15,000 mile lease or is it strictly handled by the lower residual rate?
Thanks.
Do you know how the BMW owners choice program works? I live in IL, and was quoted a deal from a dealer in IN that suggested the owners choice program.
Thanks!
Just to recap on my Audi A4 Cabriolet Lease. I did agree to Lease a particular vehicle that was on it's way to the US, and still in shipping. I did put down a $500 deposit without any signed agreement or purchase order. We did come up with the deal that was $500 over invoice and the lease payment includes the $575 bank fee and $395 Dealer fee. So with the options in the car and including all fees, taxes, etc, it comes to $580 Monthly. I know the numbers are correct based on the current Money Factor and Residual.
As of right now the vehicle is still not in the States and when it does arrive, it will still take a few days before it arrives at the dealership. So in a case like this, can I expect to sign a Lease agreement and purchase order prior to it's arrival? I also know that the current Audi program is only scheduled through May 4th, and may or may not be extended. As this is now something out of the ordinary and out of my knowledge base, any advice or suggestions are gratefully appreciated.
Gary
I am currently leasing a 2004 Jeep Grand Cheokee Larado 4WD that I acquired in 6/03. I am looking to get out of the vehicle for a lesser priced model (i.e. VW Passat). I'm wondering what would be the best option to get out of the Jeep as gas prices are KILLING me..... My current payoff is 30.6k I am being advised to lease the Passat as it would be the best way to lessen the "blow" of being upside down, but I'm not sure...... Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks,
-Cor
Was wondering if you could give me the MF and residual for a Rav4 FWD/Auto. 36 month/15,000 lease. Thanks for all your help.
Sorry- I live in New York.
The Owner's Choice is just a balloon note loan. You pay 24/36/48 payments similar to lease payments. At the end of the term, you can either pay off the "balloon" amount (similar to the lease residual), finance it (like buying the car at the end of the lease), or sell it to the dealer for a pre-determined price (like turning the car in at end of lease).
The difference in the ballon payment deal is that the car is titled in your name, registered in your name, and taxed on the full amount. This can be a more attractive option if you live in a state (like NY) where liability laws make leases cost more. Or in places where lease vehicles require commercial registration.
I think in IL they charge sales tax on the full amount of the lease, then if you buy the car at lease end they charge you tax again. With the balloon note scheme you pay the same amount of tax, but I suppose and the end of the term you may get a tax credit (towards the next car) when you "sell" the old one back to the dealer. Other than that, balloon note payments are usually higher than lease payments.
Dennis
I guess tell the dealer you want the deal (MF and residual) you agreed to in your deal, and if can't get it then you will not be obligated to the car. Some lease banks (3rd party) can lock you into a rate for a bit, not sure if that is an option through a captive bank or not.
Dennis
Oh by the way I am looking at 24 - 39 months time period. The dealer is quoting this car at 420.00 for 39 months with $3000.00 down that seems awful high!
Thanks so much!
Could you please provide me with the lease factor and the Residual Value for 36 months/ 12K miles per, for a 2005 BMW 545 for the month of April ?
Any dealer incentives on this car that you might be aware of ?
I am also considering taking European Delivery on this car ....
Thanks very much for your help, as always.
Have you heard anything about the '06 330 money factors and residuals?
I knew I forgot something...anyway here's what the dealer offered me today:
2005 Saab Aero wagon with metallic paint, auto trans, vented seats, executive pkg.
$45,335 MSRP
$40,140 cap cost
.00084 money factor
$2500 t.o.p
36mo/10K miles per year = $559/month
48mo/10K miles per year = $529/month
What do you think?
I am acutally trying to locate one w/o the vented seats and metallic paint that will save me around $1500.
Thanks.
From what I have seen that is the main difference: OC is just a balloon note VS the lease. In IL the taxes would be the same, don't know about about the other items. Other than sales tax on the full amount, I though IL was an "OK" state to lease.
2005 330i 36/36k 0.00225 54%
2005 330i 36/36k 0.00265 60%
Two real killers: the current $4,000 dealer incentive on the 2005 330i sedans VS paying close to full MSRP for a 2006, all the problems you are likely to have if you get the 2006 (just as the folks who got the new 5 in the first year).
If I had to choose, I would get the 2005. By the time the 3yr lease is up all the bugs will be out of the new 3 - or they will not and you can avoid it. Perhaps in 3 years, you will be ready for something else anyway.
Dennis
I'm looking to lease an 05 4runner with a msrp of $32,700. Can you give me the money factor and residual? I am in NJ. Also, can you tell me if these factors will be going down (therefore hurting my lease numbers) on May 1st?
Are there any rebates for this truck now? Should I address dealer holdback and if so, how much is it on this truck?
Thanks so much!!!
I am looking to lease a new car and I want to pay the whole lease up front (pay cash). Is paying off a leasing like paying off a loan? For example, it's common knowledge that if you buy a car cash without financing, you don't pay any interest. Does leasing work the same way? What would the money factor be if I was prepared to payoff the lease all at once?
Thanks.
I'm getting this car with an MSRP of $48,795 at:
Sells Price: $40,016.00
$5,000 down
36 months
15K mile per year
$499 per month
Residual value at end of lease: $21,469
Is this a good deal?
Please advise asap.
Thanks in advance.
Pluvious
The new 3 and 5 drive/ride quality will be better than the older ones, but I am thinking the reliability is heading into the toilet - for sure for the first year or two. My 01 330i was about 0 problems up until I sold it - and the new owner never called me back complaining of anything later. All of the E46 bugs should be out by now and should be a safe bet - for sure with $4k+ dealer money
Even if you lease, you want a car that starts and runs all the time. I just don't know if you can count on that with a new design BMW (sad to say). Sure they would give you a loaner car while they try to figure out what is wrong, but who wants the hassle?
It is your money and time, so don't let me or someone else sway you from what you REALLY want. Hey, I am not paying ANY of your lease payments so don't let ME pick your next car
I have said before: for ME prior to paying $50k and up for a new 5 with a 6 banger w/auto I would go look at the new RL (LOADED with sat and NAV for $50k or less), the new Infiniti M, or the new GS Lexus. All are new cars, but I would bet MY MONEY that all will be far less trouble in the lease term than the new 5 and for sure the new 3. As much of a driver's car? Sad to say none of them are, though the new M sports model and GS are tons better than the older ones. The RL less so, but as a whole deal is a slick AWD package. But that is just me.....
Dennis
You STILL have to pay interest - the MF on a pre-pay lease will not be 0.0000 .
Say you decide to get a $50k car with a 50% residual after 3/36k. You hand the lease bank $25k + TTL and they hand you to the keys for a $50k car they just purchased for you. They are out $25k and will be until 3 years from now. So you have to pay interest on the loan of the $25k for 3 years - so that will cost you something. Now they will waive security deposits and lower the MF quite a bit if you do this, but it will not be "free".
BMWFS is one captive lease bank I know will do this for a "discount", but I am sure there are others.
Dennis