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Car_man
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I placed a $500 deposit on an accord lx this weekend and i thought i was getting a pretty good deal. 36months 12k 260 a month 0 down until i saw your post on the special program honda was offering. I'm confident i can get them down to 230-240 but I wanted to know if i can still negotiate even though i signed the order form and if things doesn't work out can i get my deposit back?
2) Cap reductions are also taxable... after all, you are taking money out of the payment, so you won't be paying tax on it there..
3) .00175 is the base rate from BMWFS... It is pass/fail... if your credit is good enough to get it, then you get it... If not, you can't lease from them at any rate. Be glad that they are giving you the base rate..
For a few reasons, it is always better to put the least amount possible upfront on a lease.. You should really make no cap cost reduction, and even roll the acquisition fee into the lease. Your due at signing should include the 1st payment, security deposit and registration/title fees only.
Your salesperson seems to be upfront about everything... All of their info is factual.
regards,
kyfdx
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I always try to steer consumers towards leasing through manufacturers' captive finance companies. Not only do they usually have the best deals on vehicles because of the lease support that automakers often provide, but they also are usually very easy to do business with. They probably aren't going to nickel and dime you to death with fees or on your lease-end inspection because to do so would possibly cost their parent company future business. There's nothing wrong with leasing an unsupported vehicle through an independent bank, but most of the best deals that are offered by these banks are usually only available through dealers. I am not familiar with the site that you mentioned.
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In answer to your question about this car's lease program, if you were to lease a 2006 Infiniti M35x through Infiniti Financial Services right now for 36 months with 15,000 miles per, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00204 and 61%, respectively. The two main things to look for when leasing this car are to make sure that its buy rate is used to calculate your lease payment and that you are getting it for an attractive selling price.
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You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value. Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. You may find that you are better off waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to get another new vehicle.
Of course, you are likely going to be over your lease's allowed mileage by its scheduled end. You can avoid having to pay an excess mileage penalty by purchasing your leased vehicle, but by waiting you increase the chances that the bank that you are leasing it through will negotiate its selling price and you give yourself the option of just turning it back in if it has been in a major accident (and repaired) or if you have been experiencing mechanical problems with it.
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The methods that are used to calculate sales tax on leases vary from state to state. I believe that the entire selling prices of vehicles that are leased in Ohio are taxed, not just the depreciaiton portion or your lease payment. Obviously, this makes leasing in your state relatively expensive when compared to states that use other methods of calculation. For more information on how to calculate sales tax on leases in your state, you may want to visit the following sites: Ohio Bureau of Motor Vehicles or Ohio Department of Taxation.
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I am so glad that I found this forum. I need some advise on the following deal:
I have a 2001 VW GLS V6 that has a trade value of 11,000 w/ payoff of 15,900 (don't ask). They are offering me 15,200.
Trading for a 2005 G35 Sedan
auto/ premium, sport package msrp 35,700 selling for 33,200.
They want 1500 down to cover the inception fees.
39 month lease 10,000 miles
435.00 a month including 7.35% tax in Fairfield, CA.
I can't figure where they are hiding the negative equity from the old vehicle.
Thanks
I sense that if I can negotiate a little on price and get CPO or extended warranty status, I can make an off-lease purchase make sense, and am looking for any advice.
Thanks.
THANK YOU! For the information. What I also found out from another dealer was if the dealer sells the car below invoice, it shows a loss on gross right up front. If the dealer maintains a customer satisfaction index of 93% or above, the dealer gets bonus money at the end of the year based on the number of cars they sell. Some times it equals out, sometimes it doesn’t. Depends on how often they sell a car below invoice."
I agree with you on the $2,000 down payment. The only reason why I wanted to put down $2,000 was to keep my payments at $850 – it’s a mental thing. I really don’t want to put down anything.
The dealer came back and offered me $855 a month with the $2,000 down. Then he told me with 0 down it would be $911 and total due at signing was $950.
They are paying for the taxes, title, tags (I think which comes to $1,800) and AFS ($575)
Do you think that if I stick to my guns and told them that I am only willing to pay $872 with 0 down that they will go for that? And are they still making money on these terms of $872 a month? With the 0 down factor they are at $911 and our calculations are at $872, this is a $56 difference in monthly payment, which looks like an extra $1,500 added somewhere in the price. Do you think that they will go for the $872 if show them the money factor and my calculations? or can they? This is also their last 05 of A8’s
I know I am problem being a bit over the top but if they are telling me the terms and the calculations are coming out different from theirs then I am missing something.
I really do appreciate all your help with this Mr. Car Man.
Audi Buyer
Joe
Also, you say that the base lease rate on the 06, H3 is 7.75 but two dealers have insisted it's 8.75. Is there any way i can ask them to back it up or any sources where i can show them. FYI my credit score is excellent so they can't go there.
Thanks again.
Your advice on this forum is incredibly good! I think that I speak for everyone in telling you how much your expertise is appreciate!!!!!
Now, to my question:
First a hypothetical question that doesn't apply to any particular dealerships. If it happened that there were only a couple dealers in the area, would they necessarily be competing hard against each other or could it be possible for them to work together to keep prices up on a car? I was thinking it might be to their advantage to at least be talking to each other or would that violate some kind of anti trust or ethical thing?
Also, if the color you want is no longer available locally for leasing, can a dealer always bring one iin for you from another dealer in another part of the country if you're will to wait a month or so? If that is always possible, how much more would you expect to pay? Or, do dealers not like to do this sort of thing?
I am trying to find the best deal on an Acura TL Lease without navi. Let me get straight to the numbers based on my tier 1 credit:
MSRP: $33,100 (Not Including Destination Charge - ~$595)
invoice: $30,164 (DC not incl.)
for 42 month lease, Money Factor .0023, Residual: 56%
for 36 month lease, Money Factor .0025, Residual: 59%
Tax in S. Florida: 6.5%
My negotiated price at one dealership was "at invoice", but i was concentrating more on the length of lease, monthly payment, and total due at signing.
The first dealership was 42mo/12k mi. with $1500 down and 425 per month (taxes incl)
I used this to negotiate the 2nd dealership to 42mo/12k mi. with $1500 down and $417 per month.
I am trying to shoot for 39mo/12kmi for around $405 mo (no more than 1500 down), but I'm not sure if this is realistic. From my calculations, it seems like it is, but i may be missing something. Am i asking too much?
Another issue i have is with the Money Factor. .0025 is approximately 6%. Is this really the best rate offered by honda to customers with tier 1 credit?
Would i have a better shot waiting until september to see what acura has to offer at that time? With the 2006's approaching, i would think that this is the time when a deal could be had.
Can you give me current money factors and residuals for 2005 GLS Passat Wagon 1.8T,Automatic for 36mo,12k and 15k mi per year? Do these differ for the TDI? Many thanks.
Thanks
I would appreciate your advice on the following deal. Do you think that the numbers are reasonable. The dealer is pressing me for an answer asap. Thanks for your help.
Porsche Cayenne V6 Base
MSRP - 54,000 - includes convenience and light package and 18" wheels
$2500 in total out of pocket startups - first month payment included in startup
39 month lease term
15,000 miles per year
768.00 monthly payment
You are doing a great service here, and I personally would like to thank you for helping me know that the money factor I got was the best I could get.
Thanks,
--PapaJoe
Well, we've narrowed our seach down to a Toyota Sienna LE. I know you indicated that you didn't believe the lease program from Toyota changed much this month, but I've gotten a few quotes that have a .00095 money factor and approximately 55% residual (calculated using the base MSRP plus the MSRP of the packages plus destination) -- which is different enough from the numbers we talked abot before that I'm concerned. Is this a new program or simply another program from Toyota here in Wisconsin?
Thanks!
It sounds like if I order and choose to wait for the delivery of my 3-series I will qualify for better leasing rates if they change before my car is in my hands. And if they get worse i keep the present rates. Is this true? This could benefit me considering I would wait for my 3-series for about 60 days for delivery.
Also, the present leasing rates for the 325i and 330i are 61% and 60% respectively and .0025 MF's. I know you get alot of interest in 3-series, historically, is there a good chance these numbers might improve before November 1st?
Thanks,
djocks
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