I don't own an automatic, but I have driven a few of them. I was surprised by how well the transmission was mated to the engine's characteristics. No hunting, and lots of power on tap. I prefer a manual, but I certainly don't have any complaints about the auto offered in the 9-3 or the 9-5. Sport feature is nice, too -- it does make a difference in the way in which the transmission shifts, as well as in shift points.
I recommend checking carsdirect.com when the Year 2000 pricing for the 5 door Viggen becomes available. Their current quote on a 3 door Viggen is $2700 under MSRP. From some of the posts I've seen related to the Acura TL, these guys appear to be legit.
I've just bought a '99 Model 93. The dealer is trying to get me to buy rustproofing and some kind of underbody coat that "lessens noise". I didn't hear any noise when we drove the car. Anyone have any opinions on the quality of the "factory" rustproofing on saab 93's?
I just leased a new 9-3 (black on tan leather). I have 2 days to decide if I want the "extra protection package": 1) Paint Protection 10 yr warranty - adds an extra layer of sealant to keep the paint finish looking good. (the dealer says that a black car is prone to losing the 'new' look sooner than lighter colours) 2) Leather Protector 5 yr warranty - protects against heavy wear. 3) Rust Proofing 10 yr warranty - protects and warranties against surface rust )The manufacturer's warranty only covers perforation due to rust). 4) Sound Deadner - insulates against noise. Sounds bogus to me, but it is included with the rustproofing.
TOTAL COST: $500 canadian, taxes included.
Anyone have an opinion on this package. This car is by no means cheap, and $500 does not seem to be a lot to protect the finish of the car.
I wouldn't buy the protection package. Since you are leasing the car you probably won't have it long enough to worry about any rust problems.
My advice would be to put a good wax on the car twice a year, scotchguard the carpet and floor mats, and use LEXOL leather conditioner a few times a year on the seats.
Hi have been reading these comments for about a week. have a 97 900s thats due to be turned in in four months. I'm sure I will be going for either a 98 900se, or a 93. Does anyone out there have any experience with the the two models?
any concrete details that gave a noticeable difference in the way the car handles. The last turbo I had was an 85, and boy did I miss that extra power. Found the 900s to be cute but sluggish. Also a comment about reliability: 1st month of lease, the battery blew up,next month sun visor fell off, six months passed then a recall, and something to do with the front end suspension, then a few little things.
Around 38,000 miles, the entire fuel pump assembly. The only reason why I'm still smiling is that It was all covered under the warranty, free rentals of the 93, and I get to give the car back, and walk away. I must say that my 1985 turbo was more reliable.
Does anyone have any ideas about extended warranties?
"4) Sound Deadner - insulates against noise. Sounds bogus to me, but it is included with the rustproofing."
It sounds bogus to me also. Have your previous cars rusted? Do you have reason to expect heavy wear on your leather seats? Under normal conditions, if you take reasonable care of your car as 4loans suggests, I don't think the protection package will be needed.
Where in Canada are you? What dealer? I have had my black 9-3 with tan leather for 6 mos., and I can't imagine why you'd spend a penny on any of the stuff you mentioned. You leased, so I'm assuming you're not looking to keep the car 10 years or more. Even if you were, washing and waxing the car is a better way to keep the paint looking good and avoid rust. If you wash and protect the leather, it will last plenty long enough. Sound deadening? Huh? Only thing I would suggest regarding sound is that you replace the dash speakers when you get the car. The factory ones are really bad and you'll notice a big improvement by spending less than $100 Cdn. on a pair of 3 1/2-inch speakers.
Vyl:
I had a '95 900 prior to my 9-3, so I strongly suggest you choose a 9-3 rather than a '98 900. There really is a difference between the two models. I had a series of problems with my 900, and 16,000 km into the 9-3, it has performed flawlessly. The turbo is fantastic, especially when you move from a 900 without it, as I did. The car does handle better, and there are numerous small upgrades that you will appreciate as you own and drive the car. On the extended warranty, my dealer allows me to buy it at any time during the initial warranty period, so you should be able to assess the quality of the car before deciding if you want to fork over $1,000 or so for some added protection.
i am about to purchase a 1996 saab 900se and would like to know whether anyone has had any negative experience (reliability issues) with this car. Currently, the mileage is 38k, it is a 3 door, leather seat, sunroof, cd and the asking price is $18,500.
I live in Toronto, and the dealer was SSI on the Queensway. Actually, I changed my plan and bought the car outright. When I really thought about it, I plan on keeping the car for at least 5-6 years or longer if it is in good condition and the maintenance costs aren't killing me. As for the "extra protection package", I got them to throw in the leather protection, and told them to forget the rest of it. Thanks for everyone's advice.
Like you, I live in Toronto and am about to lease a 9-3. Do you mind discussing your experience at SSI Queensway? I know that CDN dealers try to sell at list but I've gotten Downtown SSI to budge about 1K so far. How did you do at haggling?
In May, I purchased a new 9-3 and have had a whole host of problems - faulty power steering pump, faulty hub axle, faulty strut, a mystery brake-drop of 2-3' when idle and a few other annoying, but nost aesthetic problems. Well, the brake situation has gotten worse: when i turned on the car after being parked with the air running and put in it reverse, the brakes failed to work - the feeling you'd get if the car had stalled (only it hadn't). quick thinking and some quick and powerful braking (quite literally to the floor) were the only thing that prevented me from hitting the car waiting for my spot. this happened on another occasion in drive during the same week. then, the air conditioning began working at about half it's level of cooling . no, i hadn't changed gas type (amoco or shell "silver" 89 octane, but was on a road trip, so it came from different states). i'd rather not comment on my dealings with saab corporate just yet, but would like to ask other saab owners for their comments and advice. thanks for everything.
SSI Queensway sticks to the "no-haggle" policy. What I got was extra add-ons like the cargo net, glass etching and leather protector. All-in-all, about $500. Looks like you're a better negotiator than I am.
Before we bought our used 96 Volvo 850 auto wagon we leased a 99 Saab 9-3 for seven months. I crashed that Saab out in the California desert late one night when I fell asleep at the wheel. The car was totaled and I basically walked away from the accident with a few abrasions to my right arm and some stitches above my right eye.
I have both a lot of good and bad feelings about that 9-3. I loved the hauling capacity of its hatchback formation and its fun to drive turbo engine. I hated the build quality of the car with its unacceptable fit and finish and a totally floaty suspension. When it came time to replace that car we went out and bought the Volvo wagon because I felt more confident in it than I ever felt about the Saab.
The Volvo has a much stiffer suspension than our Saab 9-3. I like this feed back after driving the Saab. The Volvo feels like a brick and makes me more confident in its handeling characteristics. Believe me, I know what float is like in a car because I daily drive a Lincoln but I'd never push it to where I confidently know the Volvo could go.
I wish I could say that I trust Saab after my experience but in my heart I didn't at the time we leased our car and I still don't. I like Saab but I love Volvo, electrical problems and all. I believe in the Volvo and know that its depriciation won't kill me. Hell I've even shopped numerous old Volvo's but I've always been leary of an old Saab.
The new Viggen really is the kind of 9-3 I should have had but it wasn't yet available and it doesn't come in an auto. The Lincoln is mine the Volvo/old Saab 9-3 is my wife's. I love the old Saab Aero, but I'd probably choose a T-5 Wagon over it ina heartbeat.
I picked up my new 9-3 today (Black on tan leather). I had never driven a standard before so it was a little tense on the drive home, but I am already getting used to it (and loving it). Any advice on a good car wax and leather protector that I can use to keep the finish looking good?
In addition to suggestions from your fellow Saabites, be sure to check out our Maintenance Conference for numerous opinions on wax and leather protection!
Has anyone's remote key fob broken? The lock function on mine gave it up this weekend. When I took it apart, I found the little tooth that depresses when you push the button had broken. The other two were intact, but they sure look flimsy.
Not to worry, rfellman. When this topic is frozen, it will remain available for reading and whomever would like may start a new Saab topic. We won't leave you out in the cold, I promise!
Anyone experience autoclimate LCD dsiplay problems or doors sticking with 9-3 se hatchbacks. So far so good with my leased 9-3se, stick, sports muffler with 10K on the clock. Tks
I've recently had the LCD display problem. Had it replaced under warranty. It took them 20 minutes to replace the panel. No problems since. Not aware of door sticking problems. The rear doors on mine seem stiffer than front doors but that's only because it was less used.
I hope someone here can help me. On 2 similar occasions the brakes on my less-than-three-month old '99 9-3 failed resulting in near accidents in both. My dealership couldn't find anything wrong and now I'm worried about driving it. Here's the set-up: the car had been driven then parked; car started with air conditioning on (which I don't usually do); shifted into drive on one occasion and reverse on the other and brakes were inoperable until I slammed them to the floor. I probably took my foot off the brake for a split second to "pump" them when I discovered they weren't working, but this was a panic situation and I can't be sure. A district manager for Saab admitted that air conditioning can "freeze" in especially hot conditions (he said this happened on many manufacturers' cars) which were present for both these instances. Could this have any effect? Or could this be related to a 2-3" drop in the brake pedal when the engine is idling (that was attributed by the dealer to a faulty hub axle and "fixed") that was discovered a few weeks after purchasing the car? Any advice or help would be appreciated, I just don't know what to do.
That was bizarre. Do you always test the brakes before starting like the car asks you to? I am not sure what's going on but am anxious to learn what caused it. Keep me informed.
I wouldn't say I "tested" the brakes, rather I always press the brake before putting the car in a gear from park. I will let you know what happens after I have them examined by other mechanics.
A while ago, somebody mentioned that there was an owner-accessible way to quiet the lock/unlock chirps on the 9-3. I could swear I saw mention of it in some owner doc or other, but darned if I can find it now.
Your dealer can either silence the chirps or cut their volume in half. It takes about 5 minutes using a hand held computer. All he has to do is open the hood. I've had this done twice because when I had my broken key fob replaced, the chirps went back to default -- scare the crap out of innocent bystander -- mode.
Really, your only other choices would be something like an Integra GS-R or a Golf GTI VR6...I'm sure there are more out there, but those would probably be the best choices.
Speaking of 5 door Viggens, I put in an order for one about a month ago. The 5 door and convertible should be available as of November or December (2000 models, upgraded to 230hp, and come in blue, black and silver), and I am counting the days. I was lucky enough to test drive one about a month and a half ago, and I can honestly say that I haven't driven anything as exciting in a long time. Just about every auto magazine says that it has bad torque steer (pulling to the side when accelerating), but as most of us do not drive flat out, I didn't notice it that much, and I was driving pretty aggressively. Great seats, nice interior treatments, tight handling, no turbo lag, and of course, practical (I have a Volvo 850 wagon now, and love the practicality!). It should have traction control - that's my only real negative (especially up here in New England)
If you are interested in a Viggen, I highly recommend putting in an order now. There is a very limited availability (only 1000 cars total per year), and thus 5 doors will be very scarce. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks for the chirp advice, but man, I could *swear* I saw it mentioned someplace that you could just do something like press this-or-that combination of buttons at the same time for a certain number of seconds or whatever....?
Yeah, the Shift Up thing is annoying. Not the presence of it per se, but the fact that I can be going up a hill in third, giving it just barely enough gas to maintain speed, and it wants me to shift up.
I am negotiating a lease for a 99 9-3 4 door leather interior, sunroof, cd, heated seats, manual. The price given to me was 360 per mo. and up front I would put down are the following: first month, security deposit, tax (1,200 aprox.) and a 500.00 bank fee. Is this a good deal?
To clarify my previous message,the purchase price quoted on car was $27,600 with a list of $30,000. Down payment would be total of approximately 2,400 with 360.00 per month. Again,is this a good deal?
I've been driving saabs since I had a two door 90 in 1977. I then got a 900T in 83 and drove that to death at 200k and 13years. The only problem I ever had was rebuilding the turbo at 90k. My most recent '96 900S is about to be retied for a new 9-3 SE. I couldn't be happier with the cars I've had. I have to say that I've test driven every alternative every time I've gotten a car and I have never been impressed much with anything but Saab. I even took out a 328Ci and, while I like the BMW style, they can't hold a candle to the 9-3 SE.
At the same time my dealer silenced the chirps, he also killed the shift up light. I didn't ask how he did it, so I don't know if it was a fuse, bulb or something computer related. On the pushing buttons issue, could you be thinking of the panic alarm? If you push and hold either the lock button on the fob or between the seats for 2 seconds, the car alarm goes off. I haven't tried it so I'm taking my saleman's word for it.
I just leased a 99 9-3 with leather, sunroof, CD, automatic, a 15,000 mile allowance and free oil service every 3000 miles for three years. The terms of my lease are as follows:
$2,000 down, no security deposit, first month included. Sticker - $30,805. Negogiated price: $28,000 $500 Bank fee. $325 per month ($350 w/ local tax) for 42 months. Residual of $14,500.
All said and done, I am leasing this car for 42 months at an effective interest rate of 1%. If I choose to purchase the car at the end of the lease, the cost of my lease payments, down payment and residual is still less than the sticker price by $650, tax not included. I don't know where you live, but here in the desert, Saabs are not popular, so this deal was not that hard to negogiate. One other good thing about the desert is cars last much longer here, so buying a used or leased car is not so bad. I would have bought my 1997 Maxima, but it had been hit three times, so I figured I would let it go.
Anyway, good luck in negogiating your deal. Try to get them to throw in the free maintenance and the 15,000 mile allowance if you don't have it already. Your negogiated price is comparable to what I got. But the oil changes are worth $10/month, and the 3,000 additional miles are worth $20/month, and make the residual lower, so if you get them for free and choose to purchase the car, you get a better deal.
I usually don't lease for longer than 36 months, but the 4/50,000 warranty means I will only have to maybe replace tires and brakes if I turn the car in, which is about $500 in maintenance. You may want to consider this option as well.
On my 99 9-3, I got the 16" wheels with 205/50 ZR Michellin Pilots. I can not find any documentation on the correct tire pressure! The sticker on the driver side door says 33 psi, but I think that is for the 15" tires. The car was delivered to me by the dealer with a tire pressure of 48 psi (cold) on all 4. Can anyone help me out?
I got the same tire on mine. 32-34 psi should be fine, depending on how fast you usually drive. Higher pressure gives more "feel" as well. The manual actually recommend lower pressure but that's assuming you don't drive very fast and prefers a softer ride.
Check out www.saabusa.com for the latest lease deal. I am picking up my new 9-3 tomorrow morning from Tisher Saab in Maryland. It is the exact same car as yours, except I'm having the dealer install the wood dash. Here's the deal I got:
The security deposit was waived, and the acq. fee was rolled into the monthly payment. Without the wood dash, it's $325/mo., and residual is the same (dealer installed options cannot be residualized).
As to whether or not you could do a little better, it depends on what part of the country you are.
Well, it's been 1 month with my new 9-3 and I love it! I am still learing the ropes with driving a 5-speed and thought someone might be able to help:
When I shift from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd, I get a "jolt" from the car as I let my foot off the clutch. The problem does not seem to happen as often when shifting in the upper gears. I am pretty sure that it is not a problem with the car but rather with the way I am driving. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong??
Am still trying to decide whether to buy a used 1997 or 98 900se, or a 9 3. Has anyone out there gone form the 900se to the 9 3? could you really feel a definitive difference? The dealer keeps mentioning the fact that there are 1000 improvements, but everyone gets blurry eyed when ˆask if there is a significant difference in the way the car drives. that and the fact that I haven't been able to find too many later model SE for sale has prevented me from differentiating between the two. Also, has anyone heard of the lease deals for september from SAAB? By the way, this will be SAAB # 4, and I must say from my experience and the type of driving I do on a daily basis, SAAB is the best road car I have driven. It;s durable, quick, and nimble
I have the same problem on my 1999 model 9-3 automatic base model with 26,000 km. Serious bottoming, especially at speed (+120 km/hour)over hill and dale. Bridges and hollows on the 401 to Toronto from Montreal are taken with a high degree of circumspection (as well as lack of speed). From the wear on the tire edges I strongly suspect the struts (shocks and springs)are not up to the job. I wonder if there is a difference in strut rating between the base and SE model? Dealer and SAAB Canada insist that it meets specifications. We are currently negotiating a change to an after-market suspension, as this coupled with excessive camber steer is giving me serious pause for thoughts about safety (and quite frankly whether I want to continue with the lease).
I spoke with a Saab Dealer here and apparently the included service is a pilot thing that Saab is introducing in several regions. If you happen to live in one of those reigons the car's sticker price will be a little bit higher, but the services for the first several intervals will be included. This is being implimented to compete with similar programs from BMW and Damlier-Chrysler. On an unrelated topic, I've had my new 9-3 SE for a week now and I LOVE it. :-)!
I have the base 9-3 with 16" Michellen Pilots (205/50 ZR). I live in Toronto where we get an average amount of snow. Will I need a seperate set of winter tires? If so, can anyone recommend an appropriate brand and size? I plan on buying separate steel rims to mount them on. Thanks.
I'm in London (Ont.), just down the road where we get as much or more snow. I've never had any problem with the Michelins on my 900 (previous) or current 9-3. I've got 15" wheels, but I think you'll be just fine this winter.
Comments
1) Paint Protection 10 yr warranty - adds an extra layer of sealant to keep the paint finish looking good. (the dealer says that a black car is prone to losing the 'new' look sooner than lighter colours)
2) Leather Protector 5 yr warranty - protects against heavy wear.
3) Rust Proofing 10 yr warranty - protects and warranties against surface rust )The manufacturer's warranty only covers perforation due to rust).
4) Sound Deadner - insulates against noise. Sounds bogus to me, but it is included with the rustproofing.
TOTAL COST: $500 canadian, taxes included.
Anyone have an opinion on this package. This car is by no means cheap, and $500 does not seem to be a lot to protect the finish of the car.
Should I do it?
My advice would be to put a good wax on the car twice a year, scotchguard the carpet and floor mats, and use LEXOL leather conditioner a few times a year on the seats.
any concrete details that gave a noticeable difference in the way the car handles. The last turbo I had was an 85, and boy did I miss that extra power. Found the 900s to be cute but sluggish. Also a comment about reliability: 1st month of lease, the battery blew up,next month sun visor fell off, six months passed then a recall, and something to do with the front end suspension, then a few little things.
Around 38,000 miles, the entire fuel pump assembly. The only reason why I'm still smiling is that It was all covered under the warranty, free rentals of the 93, and I get to give the car back, and walk away. I must say that my 1985 turbo was more reliable.
Does anyone have any ideas about extended warranties?
"4) Sound Deadner - insulates against noise. Sounds bogus to me, but it is included with the rustproofing."
It sounds bogus to me also. Have your previous cars rusted? Do you have reason to expect heavy wear on your leather seats? Under normal conditions, if you take reasonable care of your car as 4loans suggests, I don't think the protection package will be needed.
Please, let us know what you decide.
carlady/host
Where in Canada are you? What dealer? I have had my black 9-3 with tan leather for 6 mos., and I can't imagine why you'd spend a penny on any of the stuff you mentioned.
You leased, so I'm assuming you're not looking to keep the car 10 years or more. Even if you were, washing and waxing the car is a better way to keep the paint looking good and avoid rust.
If you wash and protect the leather, it will last plenty long enough.
Sound deadening? Huh?
Only thing I would suggest regarding sound is that you replace the dash speakers when you get the car. The factory ones are really bad and you'll notice a big improvement by spending less than $100 Cdn. on a pair of 3 1/2-inch speakers.
Vyl:
I had a '95 900 prior to my 9-3, so I strongly suggest you choose a 9-3 rather than a '98 900. There really is a difference between the two models. I had a series of problems with my 900, and 16,000 km into the 9-3, it has performed flawlessly. The turbo is fantastic, especially when you move from a 900 without it, as I did.
The car does handle better, and there are numerous small upgrades that you will appreciate as you own and drive the car.
On the extended warranty, my dealer allows me to buy it at any time during the initial warranty period, so you should be able to assess the quality of the car before deciding if you want to fork over $1,000 or so for some added protection.
Good luck.
carlady/host
we leased a 99 Saab 9-3 for seven months. I crashed that Saab out in the California desert
late one night when I fell asleep at the wheel.
The car was totaled and I basically walked away
from the accident with a few abrasions to my right
arm and some stitches above my right eye.
I have both a lot of good and bad feelings about
that 9-3. I loved the hauling capacity of its
hatchback formation and its fun to drive turbo
engine. I hated the build quality of the car with
its unacceptable fit and finish and a totally
floaty suspension. When it came time to replace
that car we went out and bought the Volvo wagon
because I felt more confident in it than I ever
felt about the Saab.
The Volvo has a much stiffer suspension than our
Saab 9-3. I like this feed back after driving the
Saab. The Volvo feels like a brick and makes me
more confident in its handeling characteristics.
Believe me, I know what float is like in a car
because I daily drive a Lincoln but I'd never push
it to where I confidently know the Volvo could go.
I wish I could say that I trust Saab after my
experience but in my heart I didn't at the time we
leased our car and I still don't. I like Saab but
I love Volvo, electrical problems and all. I
believe in the Volvo and know that its depriciation
won't kill me. Hell I've even shopped numerous
old Volvo's but I've always been leary of an old
Saab.
The new Viggen really is the kind of 9-3 I should
have had but it wasn't yet available and it doesn't
come in an auto. The Lincoln is mine the
Volvo/old Saab 9-3 is my wife's. I love the old
Saab Aero, but I'd probably choose a T-5 Wagon over
it ina heartbeat.
carlady/host
carlady/host
ziggy
Anybody know the magic word?
Gracias....
I've had this done twice because when I had my broken key fob replaced, the chirps went back to default -- scare the crap out of innocent bystander -- mode.
If you are interested in a Viggen, I highly recommend putting in an order now. There is a very limited availability (only 1000 cars total per year), and thus 5 doors will be very scarce. I'll keep you posted.
Yeah, the Shift Up thing is annoying. Not the presence of it per se, but the fact that I can be going up a hill in third, giving it just barely enough gas to maintain speed, and it wants me to shift up.
first month, security deposit, tax (1,200 aprox.)
and a 500.00 bank fee. Is this a good deal?
As for color, midnight blue is the way to go...
:-)
On the pushing buttons issue, could you be thinking of the panic alarm? If you push and hold either the lock button on the fob or between the seats for 2 seconds, the car alarm goes off. I haven't tried it so I'm taking my saleman's word for it.
$2,000 down, no security deposit, first month included.
Sticker - $30,805.
Negogiated price: $28,000
$500 Bank fee.
$325 per month ($350 w/ local tax) for 42 months.
Residual of $14,500.
All said and done, I am leasing this car for 42 months at an effective interest rate of 1%. If I choose to purchase the car at the end of the lease, the cost of my lease payments, down payment and residual is still less than the sticker price
by $650, tax not included. I don't know where you live, but here in the desert, Saabs are not popular, so this deal was not that hard to negogiate. One other good thing about the desert is cars last much longer here, so buying a used or leased car is not so bad. I would have bought my 1997 Maxima, but it had been hit three times, so I figured I would let it go.
Anyway, good luck in negogiating your deal. Try to get them to throw in the free maintenance and the 15,000 mile allowance if you don't have it already. Your negogiated price is comparable to what I got. But the oil changes are worth $10/month, and the 3,000 additional miles are worth $20/month, and make the residual lower, so if you get them for free and choose to purchase the car, you get a better deal.
I usually don't lease for longer than 36 months, but the 4/50,000 warranty means I will only have to maybe replace tires and brakes if I turn the car in, which is about $500 in maintenance. You may want to consider this option as well.
Good luck.
Check out www.saabusa.com for the latest lease deal. I am picking up my new 9-3 tomorrow morning from Tisher Saab in Maryland. It is the exact same car as yours, except I'm having the dealer install the wood dash. Here's the deal I got:
$431.48 down ($331.48 1st mo. + $100 title)
$331.48 monthly payment (local 5% tax included)
36 mo. lease
12k miles/yr
$15613 residual
The security deposit was waived, and the acq. fee was rolled into the monthly payment. Without the wood dash, it's $325/mo., and residual is the same (dealer installed options cannot be residualized).
As to whether or not you could do a little better, it depends on what part of the country you are.
When I shift from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd, I get a "jolt" from the car as I let my foot off the clutch. The problem does not seem to happen as often when shifting in the upper gears. I am pretty sure that it is not a problem with the car but rather with the way I am driving. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong??
Also, has anyone heard of the lease deals for september from SAAB?
By the way, this will be SAAB # 4, and I must say from my experience and the type of driving I do on a daily basis, SAAB is the best road car I have driven. It;s durable, quick, and nimble