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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • goldstromgoldstrom Posts: 4
    I own a 2000 Metro, base model, 3 cylinder, 5 speed with A/C. It has 2000 miles on it, I drive it to work every day, round trip of 65 miles. I do about 70 miles an hour, with the A/C on. I get about 37mpg with it. was wondering what other people were getting that drive under the same situations.
  • ckpickupckpickup Posts: 15
    I went out to buy a Chevy Metro on Saturday only to be told by the dealers that General Motors was not offering the Metro/Firefly to customers anymore. They could not be ordered from the factory and the only on the lot units that were available were in Vancouver (I live in Toronto).
    I went to a Suzuki dealer and they will still offer the Swift until the 2001 model year.
    I have not heard yet what the CAMI plant will wind up building, but there is some speculation that the Suzuki Baleno may be a replacement.
    I ordered a Swift and it should arrive in about 10 days.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    a cop-out to me...the Metro is still available as a 2000 model, you can buy a 3-cylinder with air and nothing else from Steakley Chevrolet in Dallas for $8299. The 2001 models are supposed to be fleet models only available to customers who order more than five at a time, but if you talk to the fleet manager at your Chevy dealer, he may be able to work something out for you. I would like to see the Swift replaced by the 2-door hatchback Esteem (Baleno) as long as they keep the mileage up above 40mpg highway. Anything below that and you might as well buy a 1.8 liter Esteem sedan or wagon. Another speculation here is that GM will make the European Opel Corsa a Metro replacement. That model is offered with engines as small as 1.2 liters and can get 55mpg-plus on the extra urban cycle in the UK.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    it has frame damage according to CarMax, though it has been repaired properly, they can still detect the clamp marks that were refinished. There is also a leak in one of the drive axle boots. Because of the prior frame damage, even though it has a clear title, they only offered $1150 less the $149 fee, so I would make $0 selling it to them. I'll just put it out on the net and see what happens, if I get a good response, I might go ahead and put it in the Dallas paper and if any one is interested at all, that will sell it. I see 1993-1994 Cavaliers in there from $2000-$3500 all the time, and they seem to turn over within a week or so.
  • lorbeertlclorbeertlc Posts: 38
    Unfortunately it is true. You cannot FACTORY order a new 2000 Metro anymore. The car is simply outdated. It hasn't changed since 1995 and there isn't enough demand to continue them for retail sales. Will the Esteem Hatchback replace it? Hmmm,... maybe not.
    The big rumor on the block is GM could bring the Vauxhall Corsa over to the States (yes, it is a hatchback).
    GM owns (I believe) over 51% of Vauxhall. This little car has a lot to offer (at least the UK version). Check out the Corsa on the Vauxhall web site at:
    Yea, I know- what a sting this is! But I checked it out and it does work.
    Look at all the different models for the Corsa!
    Gads! And the options available! Now doesn't THAT make the Metro look like an old VW Beetle?
    Rumors are GM would introduce the Corsa over here sometime in 2002 or '03. If it DOES happen, be sure there won't be much to choose from (maybe 2-3 different variations). I would like to see it compete head-to-head against the VW Golf GTI.
    Now that would be interesting.
  • lorbeertlclorbeertlc Posts: 38
    After looking at the Vauxhall Corsa again, I take the VW statement back.
    It could pass as a redesigned Metro. I think the problem GM has is: "Would there be a high enough demand to justify bringing it over here?"
    Any comments?
  • cinemafiacinemafia Posts: 57
    I really like the Corsa, and I think it would be a superb replacement Metro. Teh bodu-colored bumpers and side mirrors look great, and the grill is so much more modern and sharp than the current Metro's sleepy-eyed bug look. Oh and I adore the radio antenna mounted at the back of the roofline, like the VW Golf/GTi. Very cute, blows the Metro out of the water. Let's just hope GM realizes that with the VW Golf/Beetle and Ford Focus sales the US hatchback market is still alive and kicking. Especially now that Honda is discontinuing its Civic hatchback model, that cancels out the enormous crowd of Honda-wanters and GM should take advantage. But then again, they are GM and are prone to make egregious
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Friends, post #257 is hidden above because it contains a link that skews our screen size. To open it, just click on hidden. Thanks!

  • pbroekerspbroekers Posts: 11
    We own a 97 Metro sedan,4 cyl 3sp automatic. It's a cute little car. I can't say 26mpg in town blows me away for such a small car though. But that's about right according to specs. Does anyone out there have a similar model who does 70+ MPH on a regular basis? I'm concerned about that revved up motor since it is only a 3speed. I also have another problem with the car. I have taken it to several places including the dealership, and no one seems to be able to diagnose the problem. At speeds greater than 60, I get a rattle/vibration through the accelerator pedal if you let off the gas even the least bit.This is a rattle/vibration you feel and hear. Once below 60, not a problem. The dealer said it sounded like a sympathetic vibration off something, but no ideas. Engine mounts appear good. Again, it only happens if you let off the gas. You can put the car in park, place in lower gear, and get the problem to occur. Any ideas out there? Help!
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    I had a 1995 Metro hatchback with the 4-cylinder and automatic and it did just fine at 70mph+ all day doing courier work. I had it from 63K to 113K and my only problems were with the A/C ands alternator. It is still driveable but I no longer own it. It never had any bad vibrations except occasionally at idle the exhaust would vibrate and clatter. It is possible that your engine has worn to a point where it will vibrate at one speed because the balance is just right. A few thousand miles from now it may go away. Maybe your tires are out of balance, tire balance can transmit a vibration through the engine and therefore into the throttle cable, but you would more likely feel it in the steering. The 4-cylinder models with automatic are overengineered, they are all but bulletproof. They have to be to survive rental car duty, and since 2001 models are fleet only, that seems to be its fate.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    my Metro made a whistling sound at 3/4 to full throttle above 65mph. Sounded like a turbo (but didn't feel like one). Someone told me that Hyundai Accent were having trouble with resonators because they whistled. Maybe my resonator was going bad. It didn't cause any vibrations though.

    Another possibility is your motor mounts are not quite torqued down tight enough. They might only vibrate at speed.
  • My last response was 242. It sounds like people defend Metros with the fact that they don't have problems like other GM cars, which you say are crap. Well, a lot of the posts here are all about trying to diagnose problems, so Metros have problems too. Any car is going to have problems. My 1991 Sunbird Convertible that I have now (my first car) has occasional problems, but I put the hood up and fix the damn thing, I don't whine about it or pretend that there are cars out there that don't have problems. If you have problems with GM cars than buy a used Ford, but why do you want to humiliate yourself by buying a Metro. "Oh, but Metros are such a good deal." I don't think that a car that doesn't have a [non-permissible content removed] end could ever be a good deal. I ended up not buying the GTP, but I will not consider a Metro. Oh, and just for your information, one of my favorite lesier activities it to jump into my mom's Suburban and tailgate slow moving Metro's. The big shinny crome brush guard really scares them. Well, before you pull out 10K for a new Metro think about all the humiliation it could cause!
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    hmm...the 1994 Cavalier I am driving now IS a piece of crap. The turn signals do not blink, but all the bulbs and the flasher are fine. It has no power, and I have done a complete tune-up including plugs, wires, oxygen sensor, and fuel/air filters. And I still can't get it to idle correctly, it runs like it is almost out of gas. The only good things about this car are the cosmetics and the air conditioner.

    My parents have had good luck with their 1992 and 1995 Centurys, but they do get stranded every year or so when the belt tensioner breaks. GM mechanics have admitted to a design fault with the 2.2L engine and its tensioner. I expect mine to fail since I have the same 2.2L engine. My parents also have a 1995 Bonneville but drive it so little it never gives them trouble. It would still be in warranty at 32K if it wasn't 5 years old.

    The reasons a Metro is such a good deal are not only the low purchase price, new OR used, but the low gas costs, the 3.5 quart oil fill-up, the ease of changing bulbs and such that keeps them out of mechanic's shops. Older models take cheap 145/SR12 tires while the newer models take 155/80R13s. The Turbo engine that came in 1987-1988 Sprints bolts right in to any 3-cylinder model. Some other internet boards catering to Civics and such have shown that the 95-up Metro is serious competition to a Greddy-turbocharged Civic hatchback when equipped with that Sprint turbo motor. A 3-cylinder Metro weighs 1700lbs gutted with that motor, which is 500 pounds less than the equal Civic, and that makes some of the difference.

    Many of the problems that have been discussed on this topic are the result of abuse or misuse. Most Metro sedans on the road today are ex-rentals. Most automatic hatchbacks are, too. They get abuse, and cosmetic things get broken, vibrations and rattles gets started, and engine wear is magnified by jackrabbit starts and poor maintenance.

    My experience with GM cars is limited to the following: 1975 Cutlass, 1978 Impala, 1980 Caprice, 1980 Electra, 1984 Olds 98, 1985 Olds 88, and this 1994 Cavalier. All those rear-drive GM cars were hard to keep on the road. The Olds 88 was okay for awhile, it moved me from Wyoming to Texas and then to Ohio when my Dad got transferred for work, and the air worked the whole time I had it, but the motor got worse and worse and it finally wouldn't run over idle speed at all. I had to do $1000 in work to it over 3 months, plus I paid $500 for it. I got nothing when I sold it, because it had to be towed away.

    One of my favorite "lesier" activites is driving my Cavalier to and from work at the 55mph it can do without vibrating too badly, and watching the looks on peoples faces after the speed limit goes back up to 65 and I don't (can't) speed up!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    My favorite past-time is to watch those big SUVs flip over after trying to avoid a car they were tail-gating that happened to stop suddenly. I bet you think you are big and bad in that oversized, overpriced, gas-guzzling, poor performing Suburban. You don't realize just how much car buffs like me laugh at the owners of those ridiculous SUVs. If I ever saw you tail-gating me, I would galdly slam on my brakes and scare the living crap out of you, hopefully making you loose control. By the way, if you think Metros are slow, the top speed of the Suburban is ONLY 97 mph. But I would not suggest trying to get to that speed because a 99 Sub flipped after its rear tire blew doing 95 on I-10. All 8 passengers were ejected and 4 of them died.
  • occupant1occupant1 Posts: 412
    a tailgating topic in News and Views...I want to say it is 665...but I am not sure. Large trucks cannot stop as short, cannot handle as nimbly, and cannot accelerate as smiftly as a smaller car. So if you are doing what you say you are doing, it would be very wise of you to discontinue doing that in that vehicle. If you want to play turkey, get a '76 Cadillac Eldorado convertible with a 500cid V8 that weighs 5000lbs. Then hopefully you will run out of money before you can kill anyone, because a '76 Cadillac Eldorado driven like a maniac will get 6-7 miles per $2 gallon of gas.
  • jws755jws755 Posts: 2
    I read a previous post from some post adolescent driving his MOTHERS SUV, tailgating metros for his personal amusement. Let me tell you about my Metro... its got 95K on it, still gets over 40mpg, is PAID for, and I can park it anyplace. Admittedly, it does get little respect from other drivers at times. My car is for my transportation, not a statement to some kid about my manhood (or percieved lack of it.)I use it at times for work, as it doesnt look like a law enforcement vehicle. Tailgate me sometime kid, because often times the occupants of my Metro are myself and my partner, both heavily armed sworn law enforcement officers. Why would cops ride around in a Metro? because to most people, a Metro is almost invisible, and we can drive right up to places no Caprice can get near. So, next time you want to act foolish in mom's Suburban, think about how youre gonna explain it to her from the lockup. The tickets, the towing, the court appearances....
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    why do you think they call it a "metro"? Its becaue its for the city, "metropolitan". So in other words, its meant to be small so it can weave in and out of traffic and zip right around cars. Thats the purpose of the car. I bet you get made fun of when you go to the gas station to fill up that suburban. Probably costs you about $50. Metro is probably $10 and will get you farther getting 45-50mpg then the suburban getting 10-12mpg. So get your facts straight, dumbass. I dont own a metro, but i know the facts. I dont look at cars from there flaws. I look at them from their purpose. Metro is used to get you there and back w/ great gas milage and hatchback versatility. Your suburban is used to carry a lot of people and be good in the snow and carry lots of stuff. They are no where in comparison. However, people should look at the korean cars. with that 10 year warranty, their cars are the best deal out there now. for the same price as a metro, you can get a hyundai elantra with power everything. 140 hp. That should be considered. but if gas milage is a must and hp is not a concern, then go with the metro.
  • photog0264photog0264 Posts: 314
    I am thinking about getting used Econo Zip box, in my case I lean heavily in favour of the Accent. I am not considering buying a new Metro, because I Personaly do not think they are the best value. KEEP in my mind this is my own SUBJECTIVE PERSONAL opinion. Just because I am not a fan of the new Metros doesn't mean I am going to slam the car in a forum made up of fans of the car. As for being a real car, correct me if I am not mistaken but I though it was a car?

    People usually buy a new car because of the Warranty and the hopes that it will last them a few more years than a used one. My last car made it upto 200,000 before she finally died. I replaced it with a new Ford ZX2. Why? because despite being low in the resale value it offered the best performance and comfort balance for the buck and I won't have to worry about serious mechanical problems for 3 years. In a few months time I will buying a second car to serve as an errand and odd jobs car. It will be a manual trans with those skinny little tires and it will probably be an Accent or something similar. So grow and get a life. I bet it just drives you nut's when you are sitting in your "Moms" Suburban and someone Zips around it.
  • Have a 98 swift, would like to know if geo parts will fit. Is there a site on the web I could go to and find out? Have done courier work with three metro and they all were fine vehicles for that purpose. Felt with the air on that they needed some power so bought the 4 cyl swift. The car lugs when backing off of third,second gear after changing plugs, pvc and air cleaner still the same, drives fine on highway, only seems to lug in low gears, when backing off gas???
  • inuvikinuvik OregonPosts: 134
    As far as I know, most parts should be interchangeable between the 2 models since they are assembled on the same line in Canada. I've always steered cleared of the automatics tranny's in the Metro's because I figured it would take what precious little power the vehicle had. It sounds like you've owned a few Metro's like I've had. With the 5 speed they scoot around nice and get great mileage. I've never had any experience with the automatic.
  • ckpickupckpickup Posts: 15
    I've had my 2000 1.3L Swift Automatic for about 4 days now. This is the first I've owned so I can't compare it to the manual but I must say that it's peppier than I was expecting for such a small engine. I'm still in break-in so I can't really judge it's limits and mileage but it does appear that there is an immediate penalty to be had in gas economy if the revs are pushed.
    For me this car's primary function is to commute 100Km to work in downtown Toronto so I only get a chance to drive at highway speed early in the morning. I did not get the manual transmission because of the relentless stop-and-go rush hour traffic I drive in. My last commuter was a manual and it drove me nuts. It was also the transmission that finally made the ultimate sacrifice causing me to replace the vehicle.
    As I said, I have never driven a stick version of the Swift so it's hard for me to compare, but I can say that the automatic and this motor setup is actually better than I was expecting in performace and the economy is in line as long as I don't get carried away with my right foot.
  • ckpickupckpickup Posts: 15
    I filled up this morning after burning off my first tank of gas in the new Swift Automatic.
    I got 8 L/100 Km or 35 MPG of about 50/50 city/Hwy driving. Highway speed (100 km/hr or 63MPH) 50 kilometers to work in the morning and 50 kilometers stop-and-go home.
    I am suitably impressed. After it's broken in it should improve a little more too.
  • ckpickupckpickup Posts: 15
    Has anybody installed an aftermarket cruise control on a 99/00 Swift/Metro/Firefly?
    Looking for experiences, best unit, tips etc...
  • Guys:

    It took me about a week to read ALL the responses and the complaints and basically all there is to know about Chevrolet's Metro, AND I THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR INPUT!

    A little bit about myself. I have been a faithful owner of a Chevrolet S-10 for over 10 years (pick up truck). Ran it to the ground, 250,000 miles on the 2.5 engine (4-cyl). I just bought a Metro (March 2000) and I just love the car (I wish I had this experience 10 years ago). Every little thing that the little pecker has to offer just makes it what it is supposed to be. A great economical car! Here are some just to name a few:

    Turning radius, I can make U turns where only my truck dreamed of. (I love this one especially because I tend to miss everywhere I go). Which efficiently puts me where I want to go. With my truck, I had to probably drive (to the next stop light ie more gas) wait (idle) more gas.... Get the picture???? Can you say inefficiencies?

    Gas Consumption, it speaks for itself. The way I look at it is that I spend less money just idling on the same relative comfort level (position and temperature), than an SUV. LMAO!!!! And people drive those things to work on a daily basis. LOL!!! And lol and wonder why they are broke!!! OH my, I think I just pissed my pants....heheh.

    Versatility, I can park that thing anywhere I want, literarily. The other day I went to party in a condo somewhere in Ft. Lauderdale, all relatively close spaces were taken, except for the one I had to share with a dumpster. Oh yes, we both fit in! and not only that, it was the only spot that was "gated" LOL. (No trash pick up at night there so it was safe enough from being towed). My truck? Nah! had to walk the mile and a half. Try that with an SUV....

    Insurance, BY LAW (In Florida) We have to carry (as vehicle owners) Personal Injury Protection and Property Damage, each covering a minimum $10,000 worth of damages. If you do not have that, YOU ARE BREAKING THE LAW!!! Anyway, the point is, should I, have an accident, and the other person is not breaking the law (is insured), I am pretty damn sure that the market value of the vehicle will still remain inside that 10,000 threshold making it easier for the insurance company to cut a check so I can go buy another Metro.

    Power, to me, it has lots of it! It is a lot quicker than the county bus! Cheaper ride than the bus too. SERIOUS! So if you know anyone that rides the bus on a daily basis, laugh at them as much as if it was someone driving an SUV. Figures don't lie but liars do figure!!!

    Utility, today I put a couch in it. No kidding! It was part of a 3 part sectional, cushions too. My dive gear fits well. When I go diving, I do not worry about the Metro being stolen. When people steal stuff, they want an outrageous return on their investment, something that will not happen should they choose to steal a Metro, given the alternatives. (Perhaps an SUV???) heheh....

    Green car, emissions (over the useful life of the car) will be tons less than an SUV (probably will last longer than the SUV). I like to keep the air I breathe as clean as I can, maybe you should do the same, keep your keys off the ignition if you drive an SUV. Quit smoking too. ;-)

    Surface area, due to the size of the vehicle I did not have an accident; I had a brush with a Honda backing up from a parking lot. We were both backing up on to a road which ran east-west and we were both targeting the eastbound lane, I backed in to the west-bound one (my front to the east and obviously no incoming traffic) and as I was doing that, she was doing the same maneuver on her side of the road (the legal way), but in her so doing it, she had some of her big honda accord butt in the westbound lane (where I was), I looked in the rear view mirror and I could see her Honda's butt clearly. She did not see me and when I saw her it was way too late to react. Thank God nothing happened, had it been my truck I would have had the side of my truck bed hit by her, also due to the speed that she accomplished her maneuver, it would have been quite extensive damage.

    Oh my, I can keep on talking about this car for as long as I own it! I truly believe that it will most definitely pay for itself in the long term, can an SUV say that? I don't think so. Anyway, for those of you who have some mechanical inclination, I have a few questions.

    First, can I use the cheapest oil filter I can find (I found a Lee Filter) they are 1.99 and I am afraid that those will void the warranty if I use them, any input on that?

    Second, What about CV joints, I know that Hondas and cars like those wear out after a while, will I need to worry about those on my Metro? So far I have not seen anyone talking about them yet....

    Has anyone done a timing belt change on a Metro and if so how long did it take you the first time (hours). Also do you know if there is a Chilton's or any such manual on the Metro 2000. BTW I have the 1.0 ltr and stick shift w a/c.

    Thank you all for putting up with my stories and my stuff, I hope you enjoy my car as much as I have ;-)

    One Metro Fan :-)
  • lorbeertlclorbeertlc Posts: 38
    Hey there,
    I too bought a brand new 2000 Metro in March. This will be my 3rd Metro (I had a '91 Metro bought brand new and traded it in for the 2000, and a '94 Metro, I bought it used and traded it in for a new car for my wife- a 2000 Chevy Tracker 4-door [aka: Suzuki Vitara]).
    The one I have is an LSi Automatic hatchback, 1.3 liter engine, w/anti-lock brakes, CD/AM/FM Stereo, A/C,... well it has every option that was available for that car. The color is bright blue. I had a sunroof installed and an alarm system.
    A lot of people thought I was crazy in getting all that stuff. I however, keep my cars for many years. Since Chevy announced they will no longer carry the Metro for retail after 2000, I decided to go all out. This is a collectors edition car.
    Now to try and answer your questions:
    1) Oil Filter
    As long as your oil filter say's it will fit your car (and since 2000 is so new, it probably won't be listed yet. Look for the '99 Metro. The only difference between a '99 and a '00 model was two colors were added. Mechanically everything is the same), it should be under warranty. I've been told best bet is to change your oil & filter every 3,000 miles.
    2) CV Joints
    I haven't had any problems with CV Joints in any of my Metros. The '91 had over 130,000 miles on it (the clutch never was touched either). Of course, how you drive will say a lot too.
    3) Timing belt
    I know you can now drive up to 100,000 miles on the new Metro's before changing a timing belt. Personally, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole since the darn thing has a computer hooked up to the engine (and electrical system). I'd be afraid that if anything was out of kilter, the "Check Engine" light would come on.
    Couple of suggestions. Watch your tires. Those goodyear invicta were horrible on my Metro. After awhile the rear tires "feathered" on the treads and it started to sound like I had truck or snow tires (noise). The best tires I've found are the Michelin Symmetry P175/70R13. If you can afford it, put a new set of 4 on your Metro. It makes a world of difference!
    Also, there is available (it's expensive, but it is a nice feature), an inside rear latch release lever and striker plate. If you get it, order a 1995-97 rear latch too. The reason is the '98 to present models have an additional feature on the latch. It's a safety catch. It won't work with the release lever very well. If you get the earlier model latch, it'll work!
    Welcome to the Club! Enjoy your new Metro!
  • lorbeertlclorbeertlc Posts: 38
    A comment on the A/T for the 1.3L
    I haven't had a bit of trouble with it. It has plenty of power (and I do mean plenty!).
    It won't burn the rubber on your tires, but it will move. The biggest drawback is it could use a 4th gear for highway crusing. That would really help on mileage and cut back engine noise.
    While the other Metro I had was a stick (and 1.0L engine), it got upper 40's on the mpg scale.
    This 1.3L auto gets a solid 34 mpg around town. I know Suzuki could have done better, but that's something I'm willing to trade.
  • Tom:

    I appreciate your feedback on the latch. The other day I had a "load" that I could've taken care of without shutting the engine down if I had that latch. Thanks.

    On the tire issue, I kind of noticed that the Metro is getting bouncier on the ride, I ruled it out as the shocks. I'll keep you posted. So far I will not replace the tires just for a better ride I will wear this ones out first. With my kind of driving, quite possibly within a year (30,000 miles life expectancy). PS I did not know I had 13" wheels. I kinda take that as a bonus! LOL.

    On the filter issue, I think you misunderstood me. All I wanted to know is if the "cheap" filter can void the manufacturer's warranty if I use it. Further research on this one has concluded that it "protects" new vehicle warranties. I'll keep you posted on what "protects" is defined as. But the construction and looks are the same, it is literarily the same filter I am just wondering of what is inside, the actual filter media, Is it the same as the more expensive counterparts? This just makes me want to buy two of them and rip them open to see... hmmmm that just occurred to me. I have no doubts that the cheap filter will fit.

    Anyways, I thank you again for your input. Sincerely;

    One Metro Fan ;-)
  • ckpickupckpickup Posts: 15
    Just a comment on using cheap oil and oil filters. My 2000 Swift is about 10 days old now and it replaced a 4 Cyl 2.2L NAPSZ I4 1983 Datsun 720 Pickup that I bought new and ran into the ground. I didn't use premium oil filters but good quality filters like Frams and Castrol GTX oil every 5,000 Miles from the day I got it till about a week before it died. When I died, it was the second manual transmission that seized up in it, but the motor was still running like new. It had 255,000 Km or 153,000 Miles on it when it was towed away to the scrap yard (the cost of repairing the transmission was more than the truck was worth).
    I've read stories of courier drivers having up to 500,000 miles on a Metro and I really think if these cars are capable of that kind of durability the difference in cost of a quality oil and oil filter will pay off in the long run if you are planning to keep the car for that long.
    Personally, I plan to start using synthetic oil after the break-in and if the warrenty will allow it. Since I managed to drag 17 years out of one vehicle that had no track record of durability, then with some care and attention, I should be able to make this one last at least as long.

    One note on CV joints, all CV joints wear out eventually, the same as the old Universal joints in a rear drive vehicle with a drive shaft. How you drive will make all the difference in the world as to how long that joint will last. CV joints will fail more quickly if you gun the engine a lot while in gear especially if the wheels are turned.
    The biggest thing to look out for that will kill a CV joint in a heartbeat is contamination. Keep an eye on the CV Joint boots. If they split or crack open and road grime gets in there, it will grind away at the joint and cause it to fail. Changing a cracked boot is a lot cheaper than replacing the shaft assembly as long as you catch it quick enough.

    BTW, the second tank in my Swift Automatic was all highway for the holiday long weekend and managed 40 MPG or 7 L/100Km. The car just turned 1000Km/600Miles.
    I agree that a 4 speed for highway cruising would be the cherry on top for this car and I would imagine that the mileage would rocket if we could drop the engine speed by a couple of thousand RPM at cruising speed. I plan on adding a cruise control in the next couple of weeks, hope that helps a little as well.
    My Swift is black and I had the windows tinted on Friday, it looks awesome now. Sunroof next pay week.
  • inuvikinuvik OregonPosts: 134
    Post some pic's when you get done. I'm sure that everyone here would like to see.
  • ckpickupckpickup Posts: 15
    Sure I can do pictures. Since these come really plain, I'm trying to decide whether I should put some custom graphics on it as well. It kind of looks sharp on it's own...hmmmm.
    Once I have the sunroof put in I'll get some pics on a web site and let you know.
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