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Comments
-Paul
-Paul
tidester, host
tidester, host
We're looking forward to your report!
tidester, host
For a manual, you need to pop off the gear shift pattern button thing. Underthat is a 3/4" nut I think. Unsecure that and the knob comes right off. That button has a little 'ring' edge around it to help it set in the knob itself. You have to get into that groove to get it out. In the process I messed mine up. I'd LIKE to get a knob from coolknobs.com, but haven't done so yet.
For an auto, no clue.
-Paul
I thought about doing that, but considered that since my Jeep's name is Kermit, getting a Kermit the Frog pin and having it done in lucite by that coolknobs. More fun than a snake's head.
I considered an 8-ball, but didn't want to jinx myself. It IS a 97 and first model year TJ. Same reasoning with a hand grenade.
-Paul
Here's one:
Amazon
and here's another:
Marsars
- See if any of the zipper teeth are bent or not parallel to the other teeth.
- Make sure you are putting the starting point for the zipper all the way into the little 'pocket' thing at the base of the other part of the zipper. If it is not seated all the way, it may not work properly either.
- WD-40 is the LAST thing to use on a zipper. Zipper wax is better.
My guess is if you can't get it started, you don't have it seated properly. If you start it and it stops part way around, you either need to wax that particular area or you have a damaged zipper, which can be straightened usually.
-Paul
Ooooh, that's sad! :P
You have a TJ. Simple as that.
Obviously, for a correct answer in double quick time you came to the correct forum. Stick around.
YJ - 1986-1995 builds - square headlights
TJ - 1997-2006 builds - round headlights
Generally, you don't want to give our your VIN on a site, just for security reasons. You can request a build sheet from DC from www.jeep.com, but you only have to provide your last 6 or 8 of your VIN.
But 2003 is DEFINITELY a TJ. Rubicons are only available in TJ form - as well as the uber-new JK (2007 model-up).
-Paul
They don't last for ever.
Get your bucks up and buy a new top.
Just replacing the back window might do the trick.
The tinted ones from Bestop are reall cool too.
They look alot better than the clear ones.
After you get it working the best thing you can do is use the zippers often. Keep them clean. Just give the zipper a quick blast when ever you wash the jeep.
No lube wax or grease.
I have a '99. All I do is wash the zippers and zip them up and down at least once a week.
Good luck.
Not everybody can afford to swap a top because of a sticking zipper.
I only upgraded mine because my 97's top was the single ply layer and it had serious holes in it (from previous owner). My son and I messed up the zippers when putting the windows back on after a wheeling trip and I darn sure wasn't replacing the top because the zippers have issues in a couple of areas. I straightened the teeth and smoothed the operation - all the while saving the cost of a new top.
Now the idea for new rear and/or side windows is a good idea, and you can usually find em on eBay for a decent price. It is a good solution if the zipper with the problem is on the window side of the zipper.
-Paul
Are you sure you got all air bubbles out of the system when doing the pump and t-stat?
Do you have any codes or Check Engine light (CEL)?
Check the throttle cable at the throttle body and see how tight it is. Any chance there is a bind that won't let the throttle return to idle position?
-Paul
They love to ride the skid plates on Jeeps, especially the cool ones. The cool Jeeps that is.
When you first take off the mouse of mice will squeal with joy, because they are as happy as you are to be going out in your Jeep. (Cold Jeep)
Later on in the ride they are less thrilled an quiet down. (Warm Jeep)
When you kick it into 4wd they are getting ready for a little bit bumpy ride. Hanging on tight. Maybe whispering and wondering what is next. Some times they will hang down from the frame to see what is coming next. (quiet mouse)
If you open the door and hang out look under the Jeep you might spy one of them. Do not be scared and squeal. People will think you are unstable and probably call your Mom.
If you really want to test this out do a Rat Patrol move. (ie. Jump your Jeep off a sand dune.)
Listen closely as the squeals of joy will turn screams of terror.
Sometimes a hard landing will knock the little furrys off and you will not hear them ever again unless you go back and pick up your little buddys.
Or it might be a dry centering ball on the double cardin cross universal joint.
Not as much fun as jumping off a big dune and shooting a 50 at the [non-permissible content removed].
http://www.bigredhair.com/movies/ratpatrol.html
Good luck...Good wheeling...
1) Safety flashers - When you press in switch they light up, but don't flash. Right and left turn signals are working fine.
2) Small rust hole - 1/2 inch in diameter where floor pan is welded in on drivers side. For temporary fix, covered with aluminum tape on inside and duck tape underneath. Should the floor pan be replaced?
Thanks,
Bob
2: The floor on any vehicle with a frame is really just there to stop your feet falling through and doing a Fred Flintstone imitation. The proper way to repair is to weld a patch over it, but you could also use pop rivets to secure a patch, or even 3/4" or 1" washers top and bottom with a bolt through the middle. Use some kind of sealer or mastic on the latter two. You'd only need to replace the whole floor if it's extensively rusted and weakened.
~thanks
dave
Click this time waster if you want to enter my world...
http://www.dirtdirt.com/headacher/index.asp?current=01
Rock on in the Free World.
Although it could be the switch, or the switch connector, that's normally an indication for a burned out resistor pack. Both are easy to check. If you do have a ground problem, as indicated in anothe reply, the relevant grounds (G202 and G203 if you have a wiring diagram) are located below the righthand front speaker inside the dash. Take the glovebox out to access them. Unless they're corroded, cleaning and refixing should suffice.
defrost vs. only blowing at the feet, the transition is very sluggish, like 10-20 seconds.
Should be more like 2-3 seconds. Almost certainly a vacuum leak somewhere, though it could be a faulty vacuum actuator, though they're unlikely to all be faulty. The actuators operate the diverter doors and you can see them working if you can get your head down into the footwells.
()
I fought this same thing for about two years with my Jeep.
5 or 6 blower switches...
3 melt downs of the wiring harness ends...
I think the problem has finally been solved.
The heater console which contains the blower switch is not grounded very well on these new Jeeps. This causes the blower control switch to melt down.
The switch is not expensive (25 or thirty bucks) but only replacing the switch is only a temp. solution.
Spent the extra Hundred and replace the console and have a ground cable added.
I had to have the entire Heater/AC console replaced along with the addition of a grounding cable from the console to the metal dash support.
If the DealerShip/ServiceManager does not want to listen and only wants to do a halfass repair find another Jeep dealer to do it.
I think that it is worth the time and trouble to have it done right the first time.
By the way I think the ground cable might have added five dollars to the cost of the vehicle. Go figger..
Good luck. Jeeps are still the coolest rides in the world.
Too late to edit this into my original post!
-Paul
-Paul
Thanks, mac! I hope you and your family got to enjoy the Thanksgiving weekend. I took my son offroading not far from the house.
Got the OME suspension flexin!
-Paul
It's also a good pic to show how well OME suspension allows the axles to articulate, so I changed the title for easier searching. :shades:
No damage from the trip either.
Had a climbout right after that articulation too.
My son was really nervous about it too, as he was with me when I flopped it, but he held in there like a trooper and enjoyed it. We both slept VERY well once the adrenaline wore off!
-Paul
Unfortunately, my check engine light just came on today. Before I take it in, I was wondering if it could be related to 2 things:
1) Last week I had my clutch replaced and some bearings and shafts in my transmission replaced as well.
2) As I was putting gas in my car, the pump kept shutting off (like when your tank is full) after a few seconds. Knowing my tank was near empty I continued to squeeze the handle lightly as I was pumping the gas in my car. It took a while but all of a sudden some gas overflowed. This happened about a week ago. The gas level sensor seems to be ok because I filled up again a few more times with no difficulties.
Can either events contribute to the check engine light coming on?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
-Paul
It would be nice though, and more logical, if a 'check engine' light would let you know if your oil level was low, rather than getting excited about a loose gas cap.
Actually it's more important to your engine's health to take note if your 'check gauges' light comes on. A gauge reading out of the normal range is more likely to indicate something potentially injurious to your engine or the systems attached to it than the CEL will.
Oh, and just one final picky point, DC regards the CEL as a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light).