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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • rfl222rfl222 Member Posts: 1
    the transmission will not go into reverse... 1-5 work fine but reverse doesnt happen. Any ideas?

    Also I cant keep the door handle rods to stay on for more than a month?
  • scubadhpscubadhp Member Posts: 5
    I am wondering if anyone else is having problems with their rear wiper on the hardtop. Whenever I try to use the wiper on the rear window it almost always gets stuck on the center brake light that comes over the spare tire. When I discussed this with the dealer that I bought the top from I was promptly told that "a jeep is an imperfect vehicle, and he could/would do nothing about it." that was a few years ago, and I have spent the last several winters not being able to see out the back window b/c the rear wiper doesn't work. Has anyone else experienced this issue and do they have any remedies that work?
    Thanks everyone
    ~Dave
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    What year Jeep? What kind of top? Stock taillight setup?

    Do you have pics?

    -Paul
  • scubadhpscubadhp Member Posts: 5
    sorry, those are very relevant facts i left out. the car is an 02 sahara. the top is whatever the dealer ordered for me, in 04. stock taillight setup. what i can say about the top is that it is one piece, with the machinery for the rear wiper on the upper right side. i hope this helps...
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Which part of the wiper assembly is hitting the tail lamp?

    Is your wiper touching the glass before it strikes the lamp?
    If so, you might take off your spare tire. You can loosen the bolts holding the taillight on and put some kind of spacer under the edge of it to tilt it forward a bit. Something as simple as a washer or two would probably work.

    If you wiper is NOT touching the glass, I think that is the problem and the wiper assembly is not lined up properly. Since it was an aftermarket top, or one added later, it is possible that if somebody put the wiper assembly together and attached it to your top, they didn't line things up properly.

    -Paul
  • scubadhpscubadhp Member Posts: 5
    i think its the wiper itself that is hiting the lamp, and the blade is touching the glass, it's as if the wiper blade is too thick and catches. in an experiment i tried trimming the blade shorter a few inches from the end of the blade. and it seemed to help, but there has to be a better solution, it can't be designed so poorly that it catches everytime. i'm pretty ignorant when it comes to technical and/or mechanical things with cars.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Well, it sounds like SOMETHING is out of shape, and I'm thinking it is the center brake light. Trying some kind of small spacer on the bottom of the brake light to push the top of it 'out' might help and solve the problem.

    -Paul
  • doplee1doplee1 Member Posts: 4
    Mac24,

    Thanks for your help. Looks like you were right. I went back to the place where they fixed my transmission and he checked it out. "Eval" something or another came up on the reading. I explained the overflowing of gas and he said that was probably what caused the cel to come on. He cleared it and told me to see if the light comes back on it may be another issue. So far, I've driven about 150 miles and no light. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

    Again, thanks for your help!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    When I discussed this with the dealer that I bought the top from I was promptly told that "a jeep is an imperfect vehicle, and he could/would do nothing about it."

    What absolute rubbish! Either you have the wrong wiper blade and arm, or the center brake light housing is damaged or misaligned, or you have a poorly made aftermarket hardtop. The easiest solution will be to park alongside a similarly equipped Jeep and compare the two. Otherwise, take a couple of pics and post them here for an opinion.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    1: the transmission will not go into reverse... 1-5 work fine but reverse doesnt happen. Any ideas?

    2: Also I cant keep the door handle rods to stay on for more than a month?


    1: Your transmission, an Asian AX15, doesn't have a bad reputation in that respect. When you say "reverse doesn't happen", could you be a little more descriptive? Does the lever go into position, but it's as though you just hit a neutral, or if you go to reverse from another gear do just remain in that gear, or does the lever feel blocked from even going to the reverse position?

    2: Thats easy, just re-tighten them every 25 days! :shades:
    Seriously though, a little more detail please. Which bits are detaching from where?
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    My '95 Wrangler has the 2.5L motor and 5 speed trans. For several years now my transmission often fails to engage reverse. The lever simply won't move all the way to the reverse location. I found that easing out the clutch slightly allows me to engage reverse gear.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    That's actually quite normal. Doing that rotates the gears sufficiently for reverse to engage (no synchro on reverse). An alternative method is to engage another gear (third often works) then while keeping the clutch fully depressed, reverse can often be easily selected.

    Like people, old mechanical components sometimes get quirky. :)
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Sounds like you need to find another dealer to service your vehicle.
    Not every service manager is like that.
    Let JEEP.com know about this guy...
    Get his name and title...
    Maybe he could get a job working for microsoft or dell.
  • tonto51tonto51 Member Posts: 1
    4wd was working fine and then we had a bad snow and now my jeep will not engage into 4wd. the lever is loose wear there used to be some give? What happened?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Best way to find out is to get under your Jeep. Sounds like your shift linkage was loose. It either broke, came loose or it got binded up.

    If it IS the linkage, it really is no big deal to get the new parts to fix it. There was a TSB some time back for if it is knocking. The parts and fix are listed here at http://www.4x4xplor.com/T-CaseTSB.html. While not your exact problem, it DOES show what you need to look for.

    -Paul
  • brazucabrazuca Member Posts: 95
    Hi guys, here I am again with another question...lol. You know, I had other things to fix and to worry about, but slowly I starting going through the list of things and now I'm trying to fix this light. I can go into 4WD high and low without a problem and I know it's working....however, there is a red light in the panel that should come on when it's engaged. Anyway, since I was getting some touch up paint at a dealer I asked the question and the response was....you have to leave the car here for a day....it maybe a huge job...and I did not like that answer....I believe in the past Mac or Paul told me not too worry about it and that's what I did....but it's bothering me now...I'm trying to put everything back to work on this '97 TJ.

    Any ideas as a do it yourself job over the weekend ?
    Suggestions appreciated.

    Another question, I will replace my power steering fluid and lubricate the steering this weekend....any oil specification that you might suggest ?

    I also would like to mention that i replaced the tires recently, I read your suggestion about the BFGoodrich AT however, after some comparison....I end up with the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo with Unit-T AQII....it appears to be a little more civilized for city driving but still enough for some offroad....anyway...time will tell.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The light will be green I think, but no matter. The problem will either be the bulb or its connection to the instrument panel (most likely), or the switch on the transfer case which activates it (second most likely), or the associated wiring and connectors (least likely).

    I like 'Valvoline Synpower Power Steering Fluid'. It's easily available, it's inexpensive, it's synthetic, and it's very low foaming. Low foaming doesn't matter much if you're just topping off, but it's a big deal if you've just changed the fluid and are bleeding the system through.
  • brazucabrazuca Member Posts: 95
    Thanks for the suggestion on the 4WD light....and to know the light will be green... :)

    I will go ahead with the Valvoline power steering oil. You guys already told me a suggestion for transmission, which is the Mopar oil...what about transfer case and differential? I will go with synthetics on those but should I also go for a Mopar oil or you would have some other suggestions ? I will be doing it this Saturday.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    For the t-case I used Mobil 1 ATF.

    For the diffs I used Valvoline Synthetic 75w90 (I THINK that weight is correct).

    For the transmission (AX-5 in mine - manual), I used Redline MT-90. REALLY made for smooth shifting.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I use Valvoline Durablend Semi Synthetic 85/140 in the diffs because that's the recommendation if you tow. Regular 85/90 is a couple of bucks cheaper if you want, and would make more sense if you change it frequently due to the risk of contamination, i.e. driving through deep water frequently.

    Unless you spend a lot of time at high speed in low range, any regular Dexron III will be fine for the transfer case. I use Wal-Mart's Supertech for that, as well as their oil filters. (Tsjay can tell you about the quality of the media specified for their filters!).

    I can't remember which transmission you have, but on a '97 if you have a manual then make sure to use a GL-3 oil, and if it's an auto use ATF+3........ not Dexron or Mercon. Brand really doesn't matter here, and don't be fooled into thinking that an early auto needs the more expensive ATF+4 (though it won't hurt it).

    The biggest benefit of using a synthetic will be for a manual transmission, which as erickpl says, will shift smoother.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Valvoline Durablend Semi Synthetic - that is what I was thinking of.

    Mac is there any problem with the 85/140 for the diffs if you're NOT towing?

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    No, but it will hurt your wallet to the tune of about $4 for both axles, a price worth paying IMHO. ;)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Ouch! That's steep. That means I would have to miss getting a Taco Bell lunch! :) hehehe

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Missing lunch at Taco-Bell is not a bad thing...
    You drive a Jeep, right. 'Venture off the Boulevard, yes.
    ...maybe find a place where the menu is in Spanish and the waitress has dark eyes.
    Good real food, on a plate not in a sack.
    IMHO...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Good real food, on a plate not in a sack.....

    There are places that serve food on plates!!!!!

    I must get out more! :)
  • spadinispadini Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 1997 Wrangler, the fan switch only operates on high.

    Can the switch be replaced indivdually or doI need the whole heat/air unit?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes, the switch can be replaced on its own, but while it may be the cause of your problem it's just as likely to be the resistor pack which is inline with the fan motor. You'll find it located at the bottom of the HVAC housing in the passenger footwell.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Be aware the switches on these jeeps usually burn out due to another problem. ...faulty ground...loose connectors...
    Thax Chrysler-Plymoth-Dodge
  • 99wrangler99wrangler Member Posts: 4
    I just bought a 1999 Wrangler Sport 5speed. I’m having trouble getting it into 1st and 2nd no matter the conditions or where I push the clutch to. Sometimes it will go into second but still grind (grinds rarely going into 5th as well). No problems with 3rd or 4th. I was told that new gears were put into it, but am unsure how that would affect anything. It also has a 4in suspension lift. Any ideas on what I should do?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There are several possible causes of your problem. First, your clutch may not be disengaging fully. This could be caused either by the clutch itself, the pressure plate or the thrust bearing, or by a hydraulic problem with the release mechanism.

    Second, it could have the wrong oil in it. If it's cold outside and the transmission has inadvertently been filled with a heavy weight oil it will be difficult to engage any of the gears.

    Third, and most likely, you may have worn synchromesh collars, which usually appear after high mileage or incorrect lubrication (using GL-5 instead of GL-3).

    Fourth, a poor quality job may have been done when the 'new gears' were fitted.

    Fifth, depending on your particular lift, the gear lever may be restricted in its movement and be striking the console or tub aperture before gears can be properly engaged.
  • dllrharrisdllrharris Member Posts: 1
    I have an '02 Wrangler Sahara. My engine light will come on periodically and stay on for a day or so and then go back off. I have checked everything that I know to check as well as what the owner's manual say's (which is basically check the fuel cap), but nothing. I have noticed that while it is on it will slightly jerk occasionally while I'm driving, but other than that it appears to run fine. Any ideas what might be causing this?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Any ideas what might be causing this?

    It could be any number of things; Autozone will read the codes for free. Find out what they are and check back with us.
  • 99wrangler99wrangler Member Posts: 4
    I just want to say that this is my first time using a forum and how much I appreciate the response. What you’ve said makes a lot of sense to me, and a few things you’ve mentioned are exactly what I and a couple of friends thought of. Again thank you for the professional advice.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Glad to be of help, though I've given you plenty to investigate. Please post back when you have a final solution.
  • cbeascbeas Member Posts: 14
    I have an '04 Sahara with dual tops. My wiper does the same thing with the hardtop. I didn't have that problem until I changed my spare tire to a 31" tire. I think it puts a little backward pressure against the brake light housing which causes it to come into contact with the wiper. I've thought about putting a washer or 2 beneath the brake light housing to raise it up a little and see if that helps. I just never think about it until I'm out driving in the rain. Let me know if you figure out a solution to yours. Once I put the washers on mine I'll post again to let you know if it worked.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    If the 31s are pushing the brake light back you might try a wheel spacer.
    Sometimes cheep on ebay...
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TunerLugs-5-16-8mm-Wheel-Wheels-Rims-Spacer-Space- rs-B_W0QQitemZ180063022643QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33749QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
    Woha this might be the longest link in the world.
    They come in pairs so you can use one on the JEEP and play tuff guy frizbee with the other.
  • frozenreadsfrozenreads Member Posts: 3
    We are the proud owners of a 2000 Jeep Wrangler TJ Sahara. It is the first time we have owned a jeep wrangler and really love it. Neither my wife and I have much knowledge of cars and we are a little worried that our jeep begins to make a reasonably loud noise, possibly caused by vibration at exactly 50mph, which tails off at 55mph but comes back again between 60mph and 70mph. Before we bought the jeep we had a complete car inspection and nothing wrong was found. The mechanic suggested getting the wheels balanced. We did this at Walmart, but the problem persists. Could Walmart have not done it correctly, or do we have another problem, or is this just how jeeps behave? Help, we love our jeep and want to know its not going to blow up any time soon!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    No, this isn't how a Wrangler normally behaves. If WalMart had done a poor job of balancing the tires (and the tires are the cause of the problem), then the symptoms might have changed but they wouldn't remain the same.

    I would suggest that it might be a worn universal joint on the propeller shaft, but it's really hard to make an accurate guess at this distance. Why not have a mechanic ride with you so that you can point out the noise first hand?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Could Walmart have not done it correctly, or do we have another problem, or is this just how jeeps behave?

    Sounds like tire noise to me. The tires may be cupped or have some other odd wear pattern. FWIW, I also think that a competent inspection would have revealed the problem prior to purchase.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    High speed shakes due to tire problems are pretty rare.
    Not as rare as a real mechanic at Wally World.
    Not impossible, just not the first place I would look.
    I would look into other drive line problems.
    There are eight universal joints on these little Jeeps. any one can cause this.
    Any other loose or worn drive line components ie. motor, transmission, transfer case momounts... Clutch pressure plate, throw-out bearing...wheel bearings...ect.
    Get a creeper, a light and a rag...crawl around under the Jeep...wiggle things an look for stuff that looks wrong.
    Get to know and love the dirty bits of you Jeep as much as the shiny parts.
    Good luck and Happy Jeepin'
  • frozenreadsfrozenreads Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    Well with the very very limited car knowledge that I have (apologies), I have discovered that the vibration tone is altered if I just touch the 4wd lever, which suggests the vibration is coming in that direction. I am guessing the problem could be something as simple as the loosish lever vibrating against something, or is this a sign of a far scarier problem? I know this sounds like something that a mechanic needs to look at but I wanted some advice here to at least sound like I know what I am talkng about! (We had the wheel balance re-checked and all is fine)
  • frozenreadsfrozenreads Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the tip. I have discovered driving that by touching my hand to the 4wd commandtrac lever, the vibration alters in tone. Can this narrow the issue down to something or do I need to take this to a mechanic who knows what they are talking about? If you can at least throw me some possible reasons I can pretend to know what I am talking about! Sorry, my mechanical skills are not great. Could the vibration be something as simple as a wobbly command trac lever or something more scary?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I have discovered that the vibration tone is altered if I just touch the 4wd lever, which suggests the vibration is coming in that direction.

    As I suggested earlier, a worn propeller shaft joint could be indicated. The rear propshaft is connected to the transfer case, to which the 4WD selection lever is attached, though as you say it could just be a loose lever.

    Also, vibration problems of this nature often occur when a Jeep has been lifted. Has yours been modified in any way?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Mac, you thinking driveline vibes from a lift? Even a budget spacer boost could do that I guess. Each Jeep seems a bit different and it isn't unheard of...

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Mac, you thinking driveline vibes from a lift?

    It's a possibility. Even identically specified Jeeps can react differently to the same lift. Diagnosing odd vibrations over the internet is intuitive guesswork at best. There no substitute for seeing the vehicle and experiencing the problem, but doing it here requires starting with the obvious and working towards the less likely. :)
  • bekinitopbekinitop Member Posts: 1
    try checking the heater control valve and the blend doors in the heater box. hope this will fix your heat :)
  • jedimasterjedimaster Member Posts: 1
    Been using 4x4 mode a lot in the last week due to recent Colorado snow storms. I noticed yesterday that my Jeep is making a screeching noise - coming from the transfer case area. Makes the sound when the clutch is engaged. Doesn't make the sound when it's in neutral and clutch is out. Makes the sound when moving but it's worse when it's in gear, clutch engaged and idlining - like at a stop sign. Sounds kinda like a loose/screeching fan belt but not as bad. Any ideas? Bad news? Everything seems to work OK, including 4x4.
  • jimmyebjimmyeb Member Posts: 1
    What's your driving style?
    My 2003 Wrangler started doing this as well...I had about 28,000 miles on it when it started bucking down the highway. It would generate various "misfire" codes and the stealership told me sparkplugs and $200 later I had new spark plugs an only moderate bucking down the highway. I too figured bad sensors, but did some more research and learned jeep published a TSB about carbon fouling (Why jeep mechanics don't know about this I don't know). It turned out it's my driving habit that caused it. I pretty much babied my Jeep and because of that carbon was building up on valves and sparkplugs. Improperly functioning valves can cause lots of the problems listed here. I fixed that problem by making a point to wind the engine out before shifting. This driving style is terrible to the gas mileage, but the engine has been running smooth ever since. The TSB says 3200 rpm is the speed at which the valves start to rotate, so rev it past that. Luckily, my problem wasn't that far gone and I was able to fix it just by that. You may be fouled up to the point you'll need to de-carbonize the engine with something like 'Sea Foam'.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    That was a real blast from the past........ Sept '06!!! :surprise:

    Anyhow, if you check one of her later posts here, you'll see that she sold the Jeep before fixing it.

    I'm not sure what the TSB is you're referring to, could you quote the number, but you don't need to rev that high all the time. Just make sure to use higher revs now and again to allow the valves to reposition themselves, and to burn off any recent deposits. If you always like to drive gently at low revs you might also consider using a spark plug from a higher heat range.
  • terryandleeannterryandleeann Member Posts: 4
    Thanks in advance for any assistance! We have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 L and after just a few seconds of running it will simply shut down. We have the Haynes Repair Manual and after reading it the problem seems to be from insufficient fuel flow. While consulting chapter 4 (fuel systems) we can't find any solutions. Not real crazy about taking it to the dealership just yet. I'm sure this isn't the first time this has happened.... It ran fine 3 days ago... Any ideas????
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