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Comments
Also I cant keep the door handle rods to stay on for more than a month?
Thanks everyone
~Dave
Do you have pics?
-Paul
Is your wiper touching the glass before it strikes the lamp?
If so, you might take off your spare tire. You can loosen the bolts holding the taillight on and put some kind of spacer under the edge of it to tilt it forward a bit. Something as simple as a washer or two would probably work.
If you wiper is NOT touching the glass, I think that is the problem and the wiper assembly is not lined up properly. Since it was an aftermarket top, or one added later, it is possible that if somebody put the wiper assembly together and attached it to your top, they didn't line things up properly.
-Paul
-Paul
Thanks for your help. Looks like you were right. I went back to the place where they fixed my transmission and he checked it out. "Eval" something or another came up on the reading. I explained the overflowing of gas and he said that was probably what caused the cel to come on. He cleared it and told me to see if the light comes back on it may be another issue. So far, I've driven about 150 miles and no light. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
Again, thanks for your help!
What absolute rubbish! Either you have the wrong wiper blade and arm, or the center brake light housing is damaged or misaligned, or you have a poorly made aftermarket hardtop. The easiest solution will be to park alongside a similarly equipped Jeep and compare the two. Otherwise, take a couple of pics and post them here for an opinion.
2: Also I cant keep the door handle rods to stay on for more than a month?
1: Your transmission, an Asian AX15, doesn't have a bad reputation in that respect. When you say "reverse doesn't happen", could you be a little more descriptive? Does the lever go into position, but it's as though you just hit a neutral, or if you go to reverse from another gear do just remain in that gear, or does the lever feel blocked from even going to the reverse position?
2: Thats easy, just re-tighten them every 25 days! :shades:
Seriously though, a little more detail please. Which bits are detaching from where?
Like people, old mechanical components sometimes get quirky.
Not every service manager is like that.
Let JEEP.com know about this guy...
Get his name and title...
Maybe he could get a job working for microsoft or dell.
If it IS the linkage, it really is no big deal to get the new parts to fix it. There was a TSB some time back for if it is knocking. The parts and fix are listed here at http://www.4x4xplor.com/T-CaseTSB.html. While not your exact problem, it DOES show what you need to look for.
-Paul
Any ideas as a do it yourself job over the weekend ?
Suggestions appreciated.
Another question, I will replace my power steering fluid and lubricate the steering this weekend....any oil specification that you might suggest ?
I also would like to mention that i replaced the tires recently, I read your suggestion about the BFGoodrich AT however, after some comparison....I end up with the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo with Unit-T AQII....it appears to be a little more civilized for city driving but still enough for some offroad....anyway...time will tell.
I like 'Valvoline Synpower Power Steering Fluid'. It's easily available, it's inexpensive, it's synthetic, and it's very low foaming. Low foaming doesn't matter much if you're just topping off, but it's a big deal if you've just changed the fluid and are bleeding the system through.
I will go ahead with the Valvoline power steering oil. You guys already told me a suggestion for transmission, which is the Mopar oil...what about transfer case and differential? I will go with synthetics on those but should I also go for a Mopar oil or you would have some other suggestions ? I will be doing it this Saturday.
For the diffs I used Valvoline Synthetic 75w90 (I THINK that weight is correct).
For the transmission (AX-5 in mine - manual), I used Redline MT-90. REALLY made for smooth shifting.
-Paul
Unless you spend a lot of time at high speed in low range, any regular Dexron III will be fine for the transfer case. I use Wal-Mart's Supertech for that, as well as their oil filters. (Tsjay can tell you about the quality of the media specified for their filters!).
I can't remember which transmission you have, but on a '97 if you have a manual then make sure to use a GL-3 oil, and if it's an auto use ATF+3........ not Dexron or Mercon. Brand really doesn't matter here, and don't be fooled into thinking that an early auto needs the more expensive ATF+4 (though it won't hurt it).
The biggest benefit of using a synthetic will be for a manual transmission, which as erickpl says, will shift smoother.
Mac is there any problem with the 85/140 for the diffs if you're NOT towing?
-Paul
-Paul
You drive a Jeep, right. 'Venture off the Boulevard, yes.
...maybe find a place where the menu is in Spanish and the waitress has dark eyes.
Good real food, on a plate not in a sack.
IMHO...
There are places that serve food on plates!!!!!
I must get out more!
Can the switch be replaced indivdually or doI need the whole heat/air unit?
Thax Chrysler-Plymoth-Dodge
Second, it could have the wrong oil in it. If it's cold outside and the transmission has inadvertently been filled with a heavy weight oil it will be difficult to engage any of the gears.
Third, and most likely, you may have worn synchromesh collars, which usually appear after high mileage or incorrect lubrication (using GL-5 instead of GL-3).
Fourth, a poor quality job may have been done when the 'new gears' were fitted.
Fifth, depending on your particular lift, the gear lever may be restricted in its movement and be striking the console or tub aperture before gears can be properly engaged.
It could be any number of things; Autozone will read the codes for free. Find out what they are and check back with us.
Sometimes cheep on ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TunerLugs-5-16-8mm-Wheel-Wheels-Rims-Spacer-Space- rs-B_W0QQitemZ180063022643QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33749QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Woha this might be the longest link in the world.
They come in pairs so you can use one on the JEEP and play tuff guy frizbee with the other.
I would suggest that it might be a worn universal joint on the propeller shaft, but it's really hard to make an accurate guess at this distance. Why not have a mechanic ride with you so that you can point out the noise first hand?
Sounds like tire noise to me. The tires may be cupped or have some other odd wear pattern. FWIW, I also think that a competent inspection would have revealed the problem prior to purchase.
Not as rare as a real mechanic at Wally World.
Not impossible, just not the first place I would look.
I would look into other drive line problems.
There are eight universal joints on these little Jeeps. any one can cause this.
Any other loose or worn drive line components ie. motor, transmission, transfer case momounts... Clutch pressure plate, throw-out bearing...wheel bearings...ect.
Get a creeper, a light and a rag...crawl around under the Jeep...wiggle things an look for stuff that looks wrong.
Get to know and love the dirty bits of you Jeep as much as the shiny parts.
Good luck and Happy Jeepin'
Well with the very very limited car knowledge that I have (apologies), I have discovered that the vibration tone is altered if I just touch the 4wd lever, which suggests the vibration is coming in that direction. I am guessing the problem could be something as simple as the loosish lever vibrating against something, or is this a sign of a far scarier problem? I know this sounds like something that a mechanic needs to look at but I wanted some advice here to at least sound like I know what I am talkng about! (We had the wheel balance re-checked and all is fine)
As I suggested earlier, a worn propeller shaft joint could be indicated. The rear propshaft is connected to the transfer case, to which the 4WD selection lever is attached, though as you say it could just be a loose lever.
Also, vibration problems of this nature often occur when a Jeep has been lifted. Has yours been modified in any way?
-Paul
It's a possibility. Even identically specified Jeeps can react differently to the same lift. Diagnosing odd vibrations over the internet is intuitive guesswork at best. There no substitute for seeing the vehicle and experiencing the problem, but doing it here requires starting with the obvious and working towards the less likely.
My 2003 Wrangler started doing this as well...I had about 28,000 miles on it when it started bucking down the highway. It would generate various "misfire" codes and the stealership told me sparkplugs and $200 later I had new spark plugs an only moderate bucking down the highway. I too figured bad sensors, but did some more research and learned jeep published a TSB about carbon fouling (Why jeep mechanics don't know about this I don't know). It turned out it's my driving habit that caused it. I pretty much babied my Jeep and because of that carbon was building up on valves and sparkplugs. Improperly functioning valves can cause lots of the problems listed here. I fixed that problem by making a point to wind the engine out before shifting. This driving style is terrible to the gas mileage, but the engine has been running smooth ever since. The TSB says 3200 rpm is the speed at which the valves start to rotate, so rev it past that. Luckily, my problem wasn't that far gone and I was able to fix it just by that. You may be fouled up to the point you'll need to de-carbonize the engine with something like 'Sea Foam'.
Anyhow, if you check one of her later posts here, you'll see that she sold the Jeep before fixing it.
I'm not sure what the TSB is you're referring to, could you quote the number, but you don't need to rev that high all the time. Just make sure to use higher revs now and again to allow the valves to reposition themselves, and to burn off any recent deposits. If you always like to drive gently at low revs you might also consider using a spark plug from a higher heat range.