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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • snake1snake1 Posts: 4
    Hello again, I'm looking for help with my 97 TJ Wrangler cruise control. I've installed the factory aftermarket cruise control and also managed to get a copy of the discontinued kit. Thanks to this forum. Now the only thing I can see that might not be just right is the indicator light on the dash. I used a 12volt green indicator light. Does anyone know if there's something special about the light that comes with the factory kit? The reason I ask is because I just can't seem to get the cruise to work. I've taken the jeep to a speedo shop, a machinc, and I've even asked the dealer. Dealer was no help at all. And the other 2 shops are baffled.
    What would be really nice is if someone could hook me up with someone here local (Tampa Fl area) that might be able to help or maybe even someone out there could get me a copy of a wiring diagram so I can make the cruise work. Thanks for any help. I'm at my wits end with this. :cry: :cry: :confuse: :confuse:
  • newjack1newjack1 Posts: 10
    I just don't know what I can do. Maybe I should loosen the bolts on the rear roll bars which should relieve some torque on the windshield. Otherwise I don't know.
  • edalexedalex Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sahara that's had low oil pressure lately(20 lbs), so after changing the sender unit (no help), and trying an aftermarket oil gauge (same), I changed the oil pump. Now that everything is back together, I have NO oil pressure. (And yes, I put oil in it). Any thoughts? Any help?

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'm afraid I'm not too familiar with the rollbar on the YJ. On the TJ the bars that the windshield frame bolts to are adjustable.

    However you do it, you need to position the windshield frame correctly in relation to the doors first, then you connect the roll bar to the windshield frame to hold it in that position. Slacken or adjust whatever you need to, in order to achieve that.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    On the early TJs the cruise control was different on every model year up to '00. Are you sure you got the right one? If so, it sounds like either an installation problem or a faulty unit. Might be worth trying another dealer as it's exactly the same kit that a dealer would have used to upgrade a customers Jeep. Can't help with a wiring diagram for your '97 I'm afraid, but didn't the kit come with one in the instructions?
  • I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler (standard, 4WD, no A.C.). In the past 2 years I have had to replace the blower switch 3 times. The switch keeps melting and therefore the heat will not work. Has anyone heard of such a problem? The last switch only lasted 3 months.
  • 98jeep98jeep Posts: 1
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Try the Jeep Wrangler: MPG - Real World Numbers discussion.

    btw, people tend to ignore posts in ALL CAPS since they are hard to read.

    thats why
  • tyoshutyoshu Posts: 31
    i have an 06 Rubi and sometimes when I am idling at a light or something I hear an odd sound when I accelerate. It has something to do with my A/C and if the jeep idles for a while (not sure how long) when I take off it sounds like the engine is straining to get air and it does not have much power. After I get up to 4th gear (slowly) it seems to go away. It doesn't happen all the time and it never happens when the A/C is off. Any thoughts? Thanks.

  • jplymanjplyman Posts: 90
    I was wondering if anyone knew of any reason I would blow out a tire with only 1200 miles on it - The tire looks fine except for no air - I can't see where anything on the outside of the tire came apart. There looks to be possibly a nail hole in the middle of the tire tread - but the car was driving just fine not pulling indicating a tire going down. As I was driving I heard a loud bang - I thought something had hit my jeep. Then when I start moving again the tire was flat. There are factory Goodyear tires.

    To me it sounds and looks like the bead blew out - is this possible?

  • I just purchased a 1998 Wrangler. It is great, but the center brake light (above the spare) will not come on. My Haynes repair manual was no help. I have tried 5 new bulbs, checked the fuses, and made sure there is no moisture in the socket. I lightly sanded the contacts in the door jambs just to make sure as well.

    Any ideas?
  • Maroon Wrangler 2003 Sahara

    When rain water hits the driver door, a white film covers the door like a waxy haze. Itook to dealer and he used brake cleaner to bring it back to normal.

    Since then, when it rains the same film reappears, not as bad, but diasppears whe nthe door dries. Regular water during washings causes no problem. This only happens on driver door.

    Could egg residue cause this? What a mystery.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Could egg residue cause this?

    That is a mystery! Why would you suspect egg residue?

    IMO, the globular proteins in eggs would not distinguish between tap water and rain unless the rain were acidic. I would expect tap water to have greater mineral content and be more likely create issues but you're observing the effect with rain water only.

    tidester, host
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Could egg residue cause this?

    I guess that there's an easy to check (carton of eggs, passenger door)! :shades:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Better make it two cartons - those organic "free range" chicks get a different diet from the factory birds. :blush:

    I'd browse around the Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts) discussion too (Dawn, clay, new wax?).
  • minizminiz Posts: 2
    Hello all,
    I have an 02 Wrangler X Sport with an I6 engine and 5 speed manual transmission. It has very low miles. The truck is completly stock.

    I was driving along today on the highway (going about 50-55 miles per hour) in 5th gear when all of a sudden the entire vehicle began to shake violently. No lights came on on the dashboard, but the engine started to cut out. I pulled over to the side instantally and released the clutch. Turned off the engine and got out to find smoke coming from around the transmission case under the front end of the vehicle. It smelled like burning moth balls, not burning rubber. I got it towed home on a flatbed truck, as I didn't want to drive it. I had just been out to a local dealership, and they had access to the vehicle. I think they may have shifted the 4 wheel drive lever around and somehow put it in-between 2H and 4H. The light didn't come on, on the dashboard saying that it was in 4H so that is why I didn't think to check. When I was driving it home from the dealer, the Jeep seemed to have trouble accelerating, especially when in 3, 4 and 5. It felt like something was holding it back. I checked to make sure the parking brake was on but didn't think to check if it was 100% in 2H. It starts and runs. I tried that once it was unloaded at the house. The transmission works, but I'm not going to try driving it again until I know what happened. It is now sitting in my driveway. I have no idea what to do.

    What do you all think happened? How much, if any, damage was caused? What should I do with it?

    Thank you!
  • I know..I's such a small detail, but if it is on the Jeep it should work..period.Here is my story:
    Interior lights will not go off. Just happened at 1500 miles. Prior to this they were working OK. Dealer has had the Jeep twice (full day each time) and they are still puzzled as where to look next.I saw the Jeep with the dash off and everything hanging out so I know they are in it.
    The problem seems to be going even further South than me!
    Obvious "look-ats" include door switches to wiring clusters.
    As for now,they pulled the 10 amp fuse to keep the battery from choking.
    Anyone else have this problem or am I an orphan? :confuse:
  • o2curiuso2curius Posts: 12
    I may be having the same problem as you. Is your fan running but no air coming out? Or does the fan not turn on? If the fan doesn't turn on then check you plug to the fan motor, then check the fuse, switch, etc, etc. My problem is that when I turn on derost the louvers kick and it goes to floor. That would be the vaccum cable that contorls the different settings, in my opinion.
  • o2curiuso2curius Posts: 12
    OK, heres your problem straight out. I have a 97 with the 2.5, 5 speed and 2 S.L. + 1 B.L. and 31.10.50 M/T's. Imagine a square box going down the road fairly close to the ground, wind passes over it fairly easy..right? Now take that box, put way too big of tires for the gearing and motor and stick it up in the air an drive it at 55mph...see the problem. Your driving the least aero-dynamic vehcle ever made up where all the wind is. Don't get me wrong, I love my Jeep and a divorce court judge would NOT EVER take it from me!!!! But we all have to face the fact that on the highway they kinda suck but they are UNSURPASSED on the trails...where there is no wind.

    My suggestion to you is get some new gears, smaller tires or some engine "bolt on's" to gain some extra ponies to push you along.
  • The vents do come on and I have air for about 30 minutes, then it just stops blowing, even though I can still hear the fan motor running under the dash and I can still feel the coolness if I put my hand against the vent... but the airflow just stops coming into the cab. If I turn it off for about 20 minutes and then turn it back on, it works for another 30 minutes and then cuts out again. The motor is new, and the fuses are fine. It's quite puzzling and we have spent way too much money taking it to the dealership for them to send it back without being fixed. They cannot figure out what the problem is, and neither can we. Hmmmm.
  • I replaced the left side front rotor and caliper on my 1990 Ford Ranger. I tried bleeding the brakes and they will not stay up. They will pump up but will go back down while driving. I used a helper and also used a one-man pump system. Still go down....Any help appreciated...Thanks!
  • Hi, everyone. I own a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport (stick shift) that has about 62,000 miles on it. In November 2005, I noticed that there was a slight lunging when going up a steep hill (like someone driving a stick that doesn't know how to drive a stick)in third gear. The problem was intermittent and not very bad so I didn't think much of it. However, by June, the problem had gotten so bad that it was occuring just about everytime I was driving and the severity of the lunging was getting worse. Normally it would happen in third gear. The Jeep would lunge felt like it wasn't getting enough gas. If you would hit the gas pedal to floor it, it would barely move. The only thing I could do to get it to stop lunging was to pull over, shut it off and let it sit for a minute. Then when I started back up, it was fine.

    Took it to a Jeep dealership in June and they said it was the spark plugs. Took it to another mechanic and they said the same thing and changed the spark plugs. The Jeep did run a lot better, but I could still tell there was a problem. I took it back in, they said they didn't see a problem and gave it back to me.

    This past week, I was on vacation and the Jeep sat for a week. Took it to the grocery store yesterday and it was fine. On the way back, got into third gear and it started lunging again. This time it was so bad the only way to stay on the road was to ride the clutch. Finally got to a place where I could pull off and shut the Jeep off, let it sit for a minute, started back up and drove home without any further incident.

    It seems that the Jeep does this when I drive somewhere, let it sit for about an hour and then start it up again. The lunging is so bad it's dangerous because you don't have control of the Jeep to get it going, it just wants to stop.

    Yesterday when I pulled off the road, I put it in neutral with the parking break on and the RPMs were going nuts in idle. It was hovering around the number 1, but would go up and down and make a rattling noise in the hood.

    Someone please husband keeps talking about getting rid of it! I am REALLY hoping someone can make some suggestions. I have read that it could be the crank sensor. Does anyone have any ideas? PLEASE HELP!

    (BTW: I do have another problem with the Jeep. There is a crack in the manifold. It's been like that for years and I haven't fixed it because it's been running fine until now. I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not. The mechanic and the Jeep dealership didn't seem to think so, but I thought I would throw that out there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much.)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You need to find a Jeep dealer with competent techs. Your problem could be related to ignition, fuel, a sensor problem, vacuum leak, or any combination of the above. The first place to start is to check if the computer is holding any trouble codes. Just because the check engine light isn't on doesn't mean that no codes are being held.

    As for the cracked manifold (assuming it's the exhaust and not the inlet) it could be contributing. On either side of the catalytic converter are oxygen sensors. The second one tells if the converter is doing its job, while the first reveals as to whether the air/fuel mix is correct and allows the computer to correct as necessary. A cracked exhaust manifold can allow air to be sucked in (as well as blowing exhaust gases out) and this will trick the sensor into showing that the mixture is too weak, which will be then be incorrectly compensated for, making for an overly rich mixture which can cause your symptoms.
  • I Have the same problem, only my jeep is a 2005.. what was the outcome?
  • I have a 1998 Wrangler Sahara doing exactly the same thing. I have ran into dead ends with all the garages and self-diagnostics that I have tried. If anyone has the answer, let me know please. It gets really frustrating, and seems to be getting worse. Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I Have the same problem, only my jeep is a 2005.. what was the outcome?

    Is it still under warranty? What does the dealer say?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Maybe you just need to let an older tech listen to it. Years ago it was common to hear big end rattle, mains rumble, wrist pin tap, cam follower crack, cam bearing screach, timing chain jingle, etc., etc. These days, with most engines outlasting the life of the vehicle, it's rare for a tech to hear any of the above on a regular basis.

    It should be easy to identify the noise just by listening to it, and without any disassembly being required. Just find an old guy with an interest in old cars. ;)
  • It is still under warranty, went to 1 dealership they said it was normal... dont believe them, i have driven in other jeeps before and they do not have the ticking sound when accelerating. Going to take it to another delaership in the next few days. Here is some other information i have found on the net regarding this problem.

    "Looks great. Had it for one week and the motor started ticking. Dealership found metal shavings in the oil, so far this is day 3 without my brand new Jeep. Don't know when I will get it back. Rides well, nice interior."

    "What would cause a constant ticking sound in a Jeep Wrangler engine?
    Detonation....Needs to be fixed immediately "

    "Also, many owners complain of pinging - also known as detonation, caused by fuel igniting before the spark plugs fire - in six cylinder engines."
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    See my previous post re: older techs. The most common ticking or tapping problem associated with the 4.0 I6 is related to the cam followers, though I'm not saying it's the case with yours.
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