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Comments
The repair kit from Dodge is about "a buck and a half" installed.
Cheaper it you you can cut and solder.
If you can hit it with a rubber mallet and it sounds like marbles, chances are you one needing a catalytic converter.
They have issued a recall for older SE's like 97-00 IIRC, that should do a reprogram of your computer for problems and I believe if your catalytic is broken, they'll replace it. But you may need to check with your dealer to be sure.
-Paul
I've been searchibg for a relay to ingauge the high beam I can't find it (is there one?)The lever switch seems to be a momentary that's why I'm assuming there is a relay. Thanks for any ideas.
Terry
Tim
This looks like a straight forward component replacement.
............................If your Jeep has airbags........
MAKE SURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AND WAIT TWO MINUTES BEFORE WORKING ON ANY DASHBOARD COMPONENTS.
Three screws will remove the plastic cover from the steering collum.
Two screws and a wiggle pull procedure will get the turn signal, hi/low... thing lose.
Push the new one in...screw it...go for a night ride shake/down.
Enjoy your newly installed klicking light blinkin' thingy.
Terry
got a Haynes looked over the wire diagram, has to be the switch
I'll let you know
Tim
Second problem is getting a "power" tool of some type, ie screwdriver, torque wrench etc. The operative word is is "power." It would let me take the hardtop and bumpers off easier and quicker. The device would natuarally have to be able to fit the star screws without hitting the side of the hardtop. Maybe some type of three position tool. I am not sure a straight up and down screwdriver would fit but have not tried it. Not being a tool guy I don't even know if they make them that would take off the star type bolt. It would have to be powerful because I broke my first ratchet when removing the bumper to put a license place on.
The hitch...it must cost 100 dollars or less. The wife had spoken.
So many to choose from, here's a few:
Compact screwdriver features 42 in.lbs. of torque and a compact design that gets into tight spaces, but fits comfortably in the palm of your hand. Lithium Ion technology is environmentally friendly and has a slow discharge so it's typically ready when you are. Grab -N -Go charger base keeps the unit ready and easily accessible -contains bit tip storage.
General Features:
Cordless Screwdriver Pistol grip Drill Type Power screwdriver Chuck:
Quality Standard Motor-Engine:
Torque In./lbs. 42 in./lbs. Handles:
Main Type Pistol grip Batteries:
Number Included 1, integrated Cell Type Lithium-Ion Battery Charger
About $40.
Locks in 2 positions for angle and in-line screwdriving. Variable speed and reversing trigger switch operates at variable speeds of 0-500.
Variable speed range capability
On-board bit storage
Includes bit
Includes battery charger
Adjustable torque allows you to match torque to job
Motor brake stops engine quickly for precise drilling
Handle adjust to match work and for optimum comfort
Includes storage case
Includes rechargeable battery
Around $100
This cordless screwdriver with case from Craftsman features a 1/4 in. hex collet chuck, a 22-position clutch and an automatic spindle lock. Comes with cradle and charger, two double-ended screwdriver bits, hardware, owners manual, 21 bits - 1/4 in. bit holder, four 25 mm. Phillips (P0, P1, P2, P3), four 25 mm. Slotted (4-6 mm., 6-8 mm., 8-10 mm., 10-12 mm.), four Robertson (R0, R1, R2, R3), four Allen (H3/32 in., H1/8 in., H5/32 in., H3/16 in.) and four Torx ( T15, T20, T25, T30) bits.
4 volt lithium battery pack provides power & longer run time
Adjustable 2-position handle allows for greater versatility
1/4 in. hex collet accepts standard nut/screw driver bits
Adjustable torque clutch permits selection of proper driving torgue needed for various jobs
Automatic spindle lock automatically locks collet to allow manual tightening
Integrated worklight provides direct light source to work area
LED Charge Indicator illuminates when tool is charging
Around $35
Many, many more, but that should give you a start.
Why go for a high-cost solution when about $5.00 in parts from Lowes will solve the same problem?
-Paul
To answer the question, yes, they handle the bits for Torx as well as regular screw heads and bolt heads.
Bolts, wingnuts and big washers would be much cheaper and simpler.
The ONLY reason I can think of as to why Jeep uses the Torx bits is that quite a few Wrangler owners never remove the hard top. The Torx screw looks a lot cleaner and less obtrusive.
But I've seen people do the wingnut thing and put the bolt in from the top so the wingnut is under the lip of the Jeep's tub, looking just as clean.
Torx attachment would fit on power tools just like they fit on a socket wrench. Sears has a series of Torx bits and I've been using them for a while with no problems.
-Paul
-Paul
thanks
I am not sure which power screwdriver would have enough power to do that job.
This looks like the cool tool for this job. http://www.truckstuffusa.com/hoistatop.html
Cheaper that an ER visit. Or repairing a broken top.
Bring out PBR's.
For big stubborn nuts and bolts you need an impact wrench. Available as either pneumatic or electric (corded and cordless). Lots of choice under $100.
-zach
If you remove it and try to move the slider and it won't go, then the door that the slider controls sounds to me like it is stuck.
A Factory Service Manual can help you track that down.
-Paul
i have a TJ Se 97 - 2.5ltr - standard.
it was parked for a couple of months during this winter. now when i try to start it, it will start when i try to jump start it, but would not other wise, tried replacing the battery. even with the new battery, the panel lights up but the ignition does not tick. when i get it started by giving it a jump, it runs fine, but the battery does not get charged. i am realtivey new to the maintaining and repair thing. got a couple of my buddies who are truckers to take a look but they couldn't figure out what's wrong.
please advice.
thanks
peace
Hopefully Mac will chime in here too, but that it was it sounds like to me.
-Paul
You did not say where and how your Jeep was stored over the winter.
Was it inside, outside, tarped out behind the barn?
All these will have an effect on storage/damage done.
???
-Paul
I think you are correct.
I missed the charging issue.
I was thinking more along the line of a humidity problem.
Can an 02 sensor be to blame?
Thank you ahead of time. The weather is warming up and looking forward to getting out on the trails.
Damion
Certainly it could. Have you checked for codes? Sounds like you are running way rich.
I ran codes again.
This is what popped up in order.
12* Battery Disconnect / Direct battery input to the PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
24** Throttle Position Sensor Voltage High (or Low); or TPS Voltage Does Not Agree With MAP / Throttle position sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor
15** No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal / No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions
24** Again! LOL
14** MAP Sensor Voltage Too High (or Too Low); or No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor / MAP sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or 5 Volt output to MAP sensor open
13** No Change in MAP From Start to Run / No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmospheric) pressure reading from start-up
55* Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine Lamp (MIL)
____________________
I did replace both MAP and TPS before I posted original message. So now I guess it's off to a professional!
If anyone has any insight into this please continue post. If I get this resolved, I will post what the mechanics did! Thank you and good Jeeping to all!
D
well, it's off to a professional
Does anyone have any tips?? Thank you for taking the time !
Thanks again!
TIA
Did you just buy one?
They usually come as a set of four, five if you want to cover your spare.
I think they get pretty dirty if you drive on them.
Good luck.
If it is the flexible type, they generally come with an elastic band in the back. It looks kind of like a shower cap (Sorry, that is the best description I could come up with). You just push this band over the tire and it holds the cover in place.
Terry
In order to remain attached at speed it has to be snug fit, hence it doesn't just snap on, it has to worked into place. If the weather won't play ball then a hair dryer will probably do the trick.