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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • tjdhamitjdhami Posts: 1
    hi there hope your problem worked out. i have one of my own, and i don't know much about doing it yourself thing, advice any one.
    i have a TJ Se 97 - 2.5ltr - standard.
    it was parked for a couple of months during this winter. now when i try to start it, it will start when i try to jump start it, but would not other wise, tried replacing the battery. even with the new battery, the panel lights up but the ignition does not tick. when i get it started by giving it a jump, it runs fine, but the battery does not get charged. i am realtivey new to the maintaining and repair thing. got a couple of my buddies who are truckers to take a look but they couldn't figure out what's wrong.
    please advice.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    It doesn't happen often, but you may have a defective new battery. Check all the cable connections to make sure they are free of corrosion and are tight both on the battery and to the starter, engine, and body. Sometimes an extra boost of current such as when you jump it will overcome a bad connection. A bad alternator or charging problem would not effect the ability of the Jeep to start if it has a good battery.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Honestly, I think you may have some bad cables at the battery. If it will start, but only with a jump, I'm thinking the battery cables are corroded or worn enough to keep enough juice from a single battery. Check your terminals and the wire right behind them, along with the rest of the connections to the starter setup. That is a common place for wire rot (don't ask how I know). Replacing the cables to the starter shouldn't be that big of a job and should be doable fairly quickly (less than an hour or so).

    Hopefully Mac will chime in here too, but that it was it sounds like to me.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Can't really add anything to what's been said already. While there is an outside possibility that the new battery is bad, it's far more likely that the battery cables are at fault. It's a cheap and easy fix.
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    JEEP JUMP...
    You did not say where and how your Jeep was stored over the winter.
    Was it inside, outside, tarped out behind the barn?
    All these will have an effect on storage/damage done.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Good point. Possibly had vermin who decided to make some pasta out of your cables...

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Doesn't really alter the diagnosis though. Starts with a jump but doesn't charge. New battery fitted, but still needs a jump and still doesn't charge. Either both batteries are faulty or the cable to battery connection is bad. Whether the problem is caused by corrosion, vermin, or the supernatural, changing the battery cable s would still be a good next step. :)
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    I think you are correct.
    I missed the charging issue.
    I was thinking more along the line of a humidity problem.
  • I've noticed this problem on many sites all across the web. My 1997 Jeep Wrangler IL6, m.t, 4x4; when given gas, hesitates. I ran the codes and replaced MAP sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor. This improved the hesitation but did not eliminate it. I swapped out new plugs, rotor, and cap. (Old plugs had signs that engine was running rich) I checked for intake issues from the filter to intake manifold, all is A-OK. A ran a injector cleaner through the system. I used to get 18-20 mpg, I am now down to 10. Blowing black smoke out of the exhaust. Worried that my new catback and hedman header are gonna get destroyed as I also now get back fire.

    Can an 02 sensor be to blame?

    Thank you ahead of time. The weather is warming up and looking forward to getting out on the trails.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Can an 02 sensor be to blame?

    Certainly it could. Have you checked for codes? Sounds like you are running way rich.
  • thnx, for reply. Yeah, way rich! LoL! If i was looking for 10mpg, I'd be running a Lambo on 33's. That would be a sight!

    I ran codes again.

    This is what popped up in order.

    12* Battery Disconnect / Direct battery input to the PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles

    24** Throttle Position Sensor Voltage High (or Low); or TPS Voltage Does Not Agree With MAP / Throttle position sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor

    15** No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal / No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions

    24** Again! LOL

    14** MAP Sensor Voltage Too High (or Too Low); or No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor / MAP sensor input above the maximum (or below the minimum) acceptable voltage; or 5 Volt output to MAP sensor open

    13** No Change in MAP From Start to Run / No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmospheric) pressure reading from start-up

    55* Completion of fault code display on the Check Engine Lamp (MIL)


    I did replace both MAP and TPS before I posted original message. So now I guess it's off to a professional!

    If anyone has any insight into this please continue post. If I get this resolved, I will post what the mechanics did! Thank you and good Jeeping to all!


    well, it's off to a professional
  • 98blue98blue Posts: 2
    I'm having a hard time folding/removing the rear seat of my 98TJ.

    Does anyone have any tips?? Thank you for taking the time !
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I think that the lack of a VSS signal is playing a part here. It sounds like an intermittent VSS problem though, as the engine won't idle if the signal is completely missing. The PCM requires road speed information, which it correlates with engine speed, throttle position, O² sensor input etc. to determine fueling requirements. Also, VSS data is used when deaccelerating so that the IAC can be used to generate correct MAP conditions. That could be why the PCM is seeing the MAP data as incorrect and is throwing the MAP codes.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The seat pivot point is a bar that passes through two brackets with holes in them, the bar being retained with two 'R' clips. To remove the seat you first remove the 'R' clips then slide the seat to one side until the bar comes out of one of the brackets. Slide it the other way to free it from the other bracket, then lift it out. It's easiest to perform the whole operation from the rear.
  • 98blue98blue Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for taking the time Mac24! This should help this not so mechanically inclined TJ owner!

    Thanks again!
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Just ordered a Tire Cover for my Jeep. Do they just slip over the spare without taking the tire off the back or do I have to take the tire off to put it on properly? Come to think of it..if I have to remove the lug nuts to take the tire off I would not be able to put the cover on and put the lug nuts back on...Its early here.:)
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    You failed to specify if the cover is the kind that you push on with your thumbs or if it is the kind that you pound on with a hammer.
    Did you just buy one?
    They usually come as a set of four, five if you want to cover your spare.
    I think they get pretty dirty if you drive on them.
    Good luck.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250

    If it is the flexible type, they generally come with an elastic band in the back. It looks kind of like a shower cap (Sorry, that is the best description I could come up with). You just push this band over the tire and it holds the cover in place.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Remembering a previous post that you sometimes get finger trouble these days, you'll find that it's easiest fitted and removed while warm, preferably in direct sunlight, as the vinyl material gets less flexible when the temperature drops.

    In order to remain attached at speed it has to be snug fit, hence it doesn't just snap on, it has to worked into place. If the weather won't play ball then a hair dryer will probably do the trick.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112 works.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Yep..both some new stuff. Are there directions or a diagram for the install for my 2006 Jeep Wrangler X?
    Yes...I am new at this.:) I added a Jeep Grille overlay which looks great and a new bumper. When the weather gets warmer I plan on installing a safari style bikini and a deck cover. This new "toys" can become a money pit..but I do love it so.........Pushing 60...feel like 18 again.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250

    I'm 68 and can relate on the feel like 18. I have had my 2000 sport for seven years now. I will keep it as long as I can climb in it. I live in the Chicago area and have had the top down twice so far this spring. It has gone up and down so much the zippers on the windows are worn out.

    Seems like I get a lot of stares at times, people wondering what that old man in that Jeep is grinning about. They will never know.

  • emmy2emmy2 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 4wd Jeep Wrangler X with 59K miles that when driving in 4th or 5th gear and am approaching a stop sign or have to slow down and I put it in neutral, I hear a "clunk" coming from the floor on the passenger side. Without having it checked, I have been told it could be a ball joint or mounting joint. Any suggestions on what it could be before I take it to a dealer and have to pay an enormous amount for a checkup?
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Would you believe that my name is Terry too? Small world. There are not many of us around.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Could be a 'U' joint or maybe an engine mount. However, I can't really be definitive at this distance.

    You shouldn't have to pay very much for an analysis, in fact some dealers will do that at no charge, as will most independent shops.
  • emmy2emmy2 Posts: 2
    Thanks, I'm going to inquire and suggest its a U joint problem and see what they say.
  • weasel80weasel80 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2003 Jeep Rubicon and it has developed a shacking the drive train. I took it to a front end specialist. They determined that the shacking was called a 'castor shack" but were unable to fix it does any one have any suggestions to fix it. Also there is a button under the stereo labeled axel lock. I had that checked too and they said the button was broke but they put the axel in the locked position. Does that have any thing to do with the shacking?

    Thanx Joe
  • shusakashusaka Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport with the 4.0 L6 and a five speed. Last weekend I parked it and it wouldn't restart, i plugged in an OBDII code reader and it came up P0340 which is a Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction, any ideas on how to fix????
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The Camshaft Position Sensor is located inside the distributor on earlier models, but on later ones like yours with a coil rail, it actually replaces the distributor. You'll find it poking out of the right side of the block, above the oil filter.

    Check the connector first, but most likely the CPS has failed and will need replacing.


    If you can't see the pic go here: CMP pic
  • winchupwinchup Posts: 1
    I have installed a Dana 44 front & rear end from a 2003 Rubicon into my 98 TJ. My front locker has recently ceased to lock although the air pump still operates. Is there an o-ring or some other internal seal to check in the pumpkin? Where can I get a schematic diagram for the Rubicon Dana 44 front end?

    Thanks for any help!
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