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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If you're lucky you've broken a halfshaft, which is an axle shaft that goes between the wheel and the center of the diff. Not necessarily 'cheap', but probably the least expensive possibility. It might also be one of the spider gears in the diff, again not too bad.
    However, if you've broken something in the transmission.................. :sick:
  • I purchased a 2006 jeep wrangler unlimited 6 speed manual trans. I have had it in the shop 2 times for a throw out bearing. Has any one else had this problem? I cannot find any info on this problem. Please tell me you might know something about this?!?!?!
  • HELP>>>
    The dash board and the radio died yesterday.
    They all quit at the same time. Nothing smells hot, no smoke, no fire.
    All of the gauges quit. (oil press, water temp, amps and fuel level)
    The speedo & tach are dead. Odometer too.
    The radio is also dead.
    Checked all the fuses. OK
    I have pulled the radio and checked all the wires and connections. OK
    Pulled the dash unit and checked the connections and ground wire. OK
    All the wires from the ign. switch look OK too.
    I am stumped...
    Any ideas. ????
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Assuming you don't use the clutch pedal as a footrest (do you?), you've either had two faulty bearings or they're being installed out of alignment for some reason. Warranty should be taking care of this so make sure they look carefully if it happens again.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Time to get out your multimeter, or at least a test lamp.

    The positive side of the power distribution starts at the battery. From there it goes first to the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then on to the rest of the vehicle, either directly or via the fuse block behind the passenger glove box.

    You've obviously lost power to several circuits at once, so you need to find a feed source that common to all. I can only guess but I suspect the PDC or something close to it. This is where your multimeter comes in. Just because a fuse hasn't blown doesn't mean that power is reaching it. Trace the flow through the PDC and onward until you come to the stopping point.
  • well I ve only had it for 2 months.Actually the roads were icy.First time I used it.
  • I've owned my 97 Jeep Wrangler Sahara for about 6 months now. I've had an intermittant problem for the last couple of months. When I start my Jeep it typically turns over several times before starting anyways, but recently sometimes it didn't start at all, just clicked...I let it sit, try again in few, and it would start...when it did start, it wouldn't idle, just stalled out. After I stay on the gas and it ran for a few minutes it would idle fine. Finally, it threw a code one day and I read an IAC motor problem. I put in a new Idle Air Control Motor, and cleaned the throttle body, and it always starts now, but if I don't give it gas right away it will stall out or idle REALLY, REALLY low for the first 40 seconds or so that my Jeep is running. Runs totally fine after about 1min and starts/runs better warmed up. Holding gas pedal to floor on start doesn't help. No code now. Fule pump relay seems to be running. HELP please!! :cry:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Three possibilities spring to mind.
    Faulty transfer case, different size tires on front and rear axles, different gearing on front and rear axles.

    Two and three are easy to check yourself (there are some fairly recent posts on checking axle ratios, don't just go by the tag in your case).
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I think that you had two separate problems. First, a low voltage issue, then a faulty IAC.

    You've fixed the IAC issue so now you need to look at the battery, battery connections, and alternator output.

    Poor or no idle is a common symptom of low voltage. Unless it's new, or tests perfectly, I'd make the battery the prime suspect.
  • Thanks! The battery is only about 3 months old and I just checked and replaced the battery cable connections. I'll stop by someplace and have them check the battery just in case. Is there any way some kind of fuel pump problem could be causeing the starting issue, since I have to give it gas to start it? :confuse: Thanks! :)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    A fuel pump that wasn't up to spec or that had a blocked filter would normally also cause starvation at high demand, whereas your Jeep runs ok at speed.

    A leaking fuel injector(s) can cause a hard start situation, but it's because of flooding which you would smell easily.

    Pumping the gas pedal achieves nothing with a fuel injected engine, it just flaps the throttle butterfly. In a carb'd engine it's different as a carb normally has an accelerator pump, and pumping the gas pedal squirts neat gas into the manifold.

    Don't just check the battery, have the alternator output checked as well.
  • Could you tell me what month your jeep was built? Just curious.
  • I've got a 97 Wrangler Sport with 81000 miles and I have a heating issue. The fan only runs when I have it on high, when it is on any of the three lower settings it will not run, but some air is being blown out of the ducts. It does the same if I'm trying to heat, cool, or use the A/C with the fan - it still only runs on high. Any suggestions?
  • Seriously, mac, you rock. Seriously. lol Found a battery issue and now it starts fine! Thank you so much! You rock, and I totally appreciate the info...answered A LOT of questions no one else was able to answer! :)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    While it's possible that you may have a faulty switch or bad wiring, it's much more likely that the resistor pack is at fault.

    The resistors are used to control the lower three speeds and the pack is located in one of the HVAC ducts, accessible in the passenger footwell.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You're welcome. :blush:

    It's always good to hear when it works out.
    P.S. The check is in the mail. ;)
  • Thanks for the info. You helped me solve my problem!
  • my 98 2.5 4cyl starts hard and engine sputters when im shifting from 3rd to 4th at 3000 rpm in both gears. any helpful hints? :confuse:
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    When is the last time you changed the spark plugs or wires?

    Check your distributor cap and make sure the contacts are clean as well. Have you checked the OBDII codes to see if anything is being thrown?

    Sounds similar to problems I had before my throttle position sensor went out last year. But check the plugs, wires, distributor.

  • thanks Paul, i put new plugs wires cap and rotor, i also replaced the distributor after i put it on the scanner, and i stll have same problem with no new codes
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Can you you drive through this spluttering to reach higher rpm, or are you held at 3K?
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    Probably the heater switch is burned out...
    This part is cheep but is only a symptom of a much worse problem.
    There was a recall for a faulty heater, dash ground.
    This caused the switches to burn out, wiring to overheat, motors to smoke and other electrical issues.
    Check with Jeep and see if your Jeep is included in this recall.
    The recall was for a limited number of vehicles.
    The problem is wide spread. "DENIAL"
    Have the blower motor and all heater/ac related electronics checked.
    The best solution probably is to replace the heater/air conditioner console, (This is the fan switch, heat/ac selector switch, temp mixer) all damaged wiring.
    Make sure the ground wire is firmly attached and undamaged.
    The wiring harness for the heater/ac is not available so it will need to be repaired. (Go figger that one)
    When you are done write a letter to Dodge and ask to join the frat.
    This has been a problem on Dodge vans since 1973.
    (Keeps the service bays full)
    "Thank you Sir. May I have another?"
    Maybe someday Jeep will again be come its own company.
    i.e. AMF/HD Chrysler/Jeep
  • mcrisomcriso Posts: 3
    Anyone know of the best way to gain access to replace the plug s & wires on this 2003 wrangler ? lots of stuff to disconnect. where do i start ??
    any suggestions / ideas greatly appreciated !
  • robby7robby7 Posts: 4
    I noticed noise and no power from my 97 Jeep Wrangler. I discussed the problem with my father, who happens to be a mechanic. He said, "its the cat." (mechanic talk) So, I pulled out my Jeep manual to read about the catalytic converter. There is a disclaimer which reads, "Federally mandated extended warranty which covers emissions. Check with a dealer service department before replacing at your own expense." Next, I looked on the internet for information on extended warranty and found some news that was NEW to me!! Daimler Chrysler has a civil suit against them for NOT notifying customers of the problem. To see the Settlement Fact Sheet, just type: "Jeep Wrangler catalytic converter warranty" in the search field. There are two links to look for: "Diamler Chrysler Corporation Settlement Fact Sheet Civil Case" and "News Release 2005-12-21 Chrysler Agrees to Recall OBD systems." I'm sending this message to all who was not aware like myself, and I apologize if I'm repeating old news. GET THOSE CONVERTERS FIXED AT CHRYSLER's EXPENSE. MAKE THEM PAY!!!!
  • yes it does come out of the sputter past 3000, I also noticed that if I have the heater and radio turned off the jeep runs fine while shifting. I wonder if it could have a elecrical problem?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I rather think you do. Have you checked for codes?
  • texjeeptexjeep Posts: 3
    1997 Jeep Wrangler - The heat and AC work, but the A/C air flows out of the heat vents and not the A/C vents?

    How do you fix such a problem?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    There are no dedicated heat or a/c vents. Perhaps you could explain in more detail?
  • texjeeptexjeep Posts: 3
    When I place the switch in the A/C position, cold air comes out of the defrost vents instead of the air conditioning vents. When I place the switch on heat, hot air comes out of the correct vents.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't mean to be awkward but the problem still needs further explanation.

    The HVAC unit in your '97 uses rotary switch for blower fan speed, and slider controls for both temperature control and for a/c selection and direction.

    You have a large combination of air treatment options. Cooled and de-humidified air can be drawn and treated from the outside or recirculated within the cab. The recirculated air can be directed to the face only, but treated outside air can be sent to the windshield, face, or face and feet. Untreated air is also available. To both treated and untreated air, heat can be added. For instance, if the weather is cold and damp you would use treated air, but combine it with heat to give a warm dry output.

    This is just a basic idea of the HVAC options available to you. Maybe erickpl, who has a '97, can give some greater detail.

    Anyhow, all that was to explain that there are no dedicated a/c vents or hot air vents. Hot, cold, treated or untreated can come from any, or sometimes combinations of vents.

    It may well be that you don't actually have a problem, but are misunderstanding the functions of your HVAC system. Or, it could well be that I am just misunderstanding the problem (wouldn't be the first time :)). Perhaps you could explain exactly what position the sliders are in, and where the air is coming from, when you think it's functioning incorrectly?

    If there is a problem, it will likely be connected with the various actuators and diverter doors that control the air flow and temperature.
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