My father in-law has a 1999 Chevy Express Gladiator Conversion van that has only 8269 miles (not a typo). Its been driven to FL and back once and some around town driving. It's in excellent condition VIN: 1GBFG15R2X1025929. I would like to know how to get the current value for this van. New it was over $41,000
Hi everyone. My girlfriend and I own a 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 conversion van and want to sell it, but we can't find the blue book value for it anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It has 101k miles. V6. Auto trans. power everything except seats. TV. bed. Converted by the Sherry Co. in (Indiana I think). High Top. This co. did a beautiful job on the interior. Beautiful true Oak woodwork throughout interior and nice accent lighting. Runs perfect and interior/ exterior in great shape. Turn key. Inspected. Info from (nadaguides.com) under S does not show (Sherry) as a manufacturer for conversions. I'm stumped. Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I have a 2000 Ford Conversion van, loaded, 73,000 miles. It says Cobra on the side but the booklet says Advantage Enterprises. I can't find it listed on NADA guide for anything after 1993, and I'm trying to find out the value.
I have a "92 Dodge Ram Van Hi-Top Conversion (by El Capitan out of Bakersfield) 98 K miles. V8 (5.9L), AT, Fading Paint, Cloth Interior, 4 captain's chairs, fold-down bed,AC Fr. & Back. Runs great. Want to sell and don't have any clue about value. Can anyone in the know help me? Or point me to a web site? I've looked & looked but can't seem to find a helpful site! Thanks for any help at all!!
I just purchased a 2001 Ram Ram Vam 1500 conversion. I'm having problems with my heater. It only goes on High and thats it's. Is this an easy fix or what????? and can someone give me some idea's on what's going on. I love this vehicle and could not pass up buying it.
There are several things you can do, depending on how much you want to spend and how mechanically adept you are. First of all, it's much cheaper to do anything yourself. That said, get a Haynes manual (better for beginners) on your model. Also, check Amazon.com for books (besides the Haynes manual) about getting more Miles-Per-Gallon. Oddly, one of the best ones was written in the 1970's, when few cared about such things. Included will be driving techniques that will improve your mileage, such as knowing when to "make" the automatic transmission shift up (by letting up on the gas), but not lugging the engine. Then start by installing (or having it installed) a tachometer. This will let you see your RPMs vs. speed; which will help you keep your foot light. The lower RPMs (again, without lugging the engine), the better. Also, more horsepower=more mpg, as long as you don't increase the fuel intake to the engine. Ways to add horsepower would be installing a high-flow oiled permanent air filter (which you clean and re-oil) like K&N or similar. Remove the resonator to your air filter box--its only there to keep the noise down, and restricts airflow. Install some premium, hot spark plugs, like Bosch 4-way (has 4 sparks instead of one), along with a copper or brass connector distributor cap and rotor (standard Ford ones have aluminum, which produce poor contacts). Upgrade your ignition coil and wires (find out how many volts your current ignition coil puts out, and doubling it will help). Don't forget to change the fuel filter and transmission filter and fluid, AND the differential fluid (most people and mechanics have forgotten this since most cars are front-wheel drive now). Remove, clean, and repack/regrease your wheel bearings. Make sure your rear drum brakes DO NOT drag, even a little (this is contrary to installation instructions). If you get really serious, you can lower the suspension, add heavier and additional sway bars and spring leaves, with heavy-duty shorter springs and shocks. This limits and controls body sway. Super-serious--add large-rim wheels and low-profile tires (rather than the Ford balloon tires) to decrease sway, increase tire pressure (up to 65 lbs), and decrease rolling resistance. (If that's too much, just get slightly lower-profile tires-and a bit skinnier-next tire change. Be sure to get tires that inflate to 44psi, minimum, and the tread is made for rain mostly (not the noisy mud & snow tires). You can even over-inflate your current tires about 2-3psi without harm. Check into installing a dual-exhaust system next time you need muffler work--and get free-flowing mufflers (and catalytic converters, if possible). A true dual-exhaust system will connect both exhaust pipes coming from the engine, usually between the catalytic converters and mufflers. At the end of your tailpipe, add a short piece of pipe that allows the exhaust to exit at a 90-degree angle to the windflow...not a sharp bend, just a 30-degree with the end part cut at an angle is best. This allows the wind (when driving) to help 'pull' the exhaust gases out. Free-flowing exhaust adds horsepower. Maybe you can get an airfoil or "wing" to put on the top rear of the van, to smooth out the airflow. Standard vans have an airflow that curls clockwise (from driver's side) behind the van, and adds drag, actually 'pulling' the van back. An aerodynamic "bug-shield" on the hood and window rain shields help the airflow, also--you can then crack the side windows up to 2 or 3 inches without it adding drag to the vehicle. Adding window-tint saves on air-conditioning (don't run it unless you need to, it eats gas) and unused seats (like the rear bench) or other things can be removed to reduce weight. Keep the engine clean & grease-free, and keep the van washed and waxed. These are the basics, but there's plenty more. A Ford E-150 with the 302 (5.0 liter) fuel-injected engine can get up to 30mpg or more on the highway (keeping it under 60mph). The 4.7-liter SOHC or DOHC engines, 2, 3, or 4-valve (whichever you have, I'm not sure) can do even better, possibly, since they have more horsepower in the stock engine. BUT--be sure to do your research, and if needed, search, search, and search some more for a very good, knowledgable, trustworthy mechanic. Hard to find nowadays.
I have a 1995 GMC Savana van that was converted by Mark III enterprises. It has a Ricon wheelchair/scooter lift, remote control side doors for access to the lift, docking unit on the floor to hold the scooter or wheelchair so it won't travel in an accident and a 6 way power seat the allows you to go back and turn 180 degrees to access your wheel chair or scooter. The van has approx. 78,400 miles on it. There are two captains chairs and a bench seat in the back. Power door locks and remote start. Power windows, air, and rear air. I just don't know what to ask for this van. It runs great but I have a new one coming and have to get this one out of the driveway. If you can help me with coming up with a price I would really appreciate it. Thanks again, Parrotthead
I sure hope you get a reply with info. I just aquired a 2500 cargo van with the same problem. Was told it is the resister 98% of the time , but that wasn't my problem.
They usually install the resistor for the fan speed control in the air flow duct to keep it cool by the vans own blower moving air across it. There is usually 2 or 3 resistance windings that you control from the speed switch on the dash. Low uses all the resistors at the same time to give the most resistance and slow it down the most. Then they drop out the others for the speed you are asking for. High has a direct 12 volts so that is why you only have high speed. On high there is no resistor involved. If you look at where the motor for the blower is bolted to the duct you most likely will find a small item that is held in place by a couple of screws. It will have a few wires going to it in the form of a plug. Pull the plug off with the fan turned off and remove the small unit with the resistors and take it to an auto parts store and they can check it for you. If this is not it then the switch might be bad. I think you are going to find the resistor bad. Good luck.
i have a 99 ford la west conversion van with 89000 miles and i am trying to figure out what it is worth it has leather and vcr and dvd with a sports top and very clean and i was thinking bout selling it but dont want to go wrong is there a way to find out
I have a 1999 gmc explorer van that I bought in 2001 and generally love it . My biggest complaint is the drum brakes on the rear & some wind noise from around the doors that I can't seem to get rid of. It listed originally around $50,000. I bought it in 2001 used from the original owner with 19,000 miles for $23,000. I would shop for a low mile used as opposed to a new one. They do seem to depreciate quickly in price and as they are usually owned by more mature people are in pretty good condition. I would try to get one from the southwest though because of corrosion.
I have an Explorer conversion chevy hi-top van with 75,000 miles on it...champagne color...I am the second owner...leather seating, back bench makes a queen bed, two captains, and two front captains...tv and other players...factory installed trailer package for towing up to 6200 lbs...complete hitch...michlin tires all around...I added a back window a/c for overnight stays in campgrounds and only used once...excellent condition. Will sell resonable price...now retired and declining health...looking for 4 dr toyota, honda, hyunda sedan....roger70
I'm interested in learning more about the hi-top conversion van you have for sale. Where are you located? My husband and I would like to find a well-kept, well-maintained conversion van for our growing family.Any info your could provide would be helpful! Thanks!
We are a retired couple and no longer need the room this van affords nor do we need the factory installed towing package and equalizer hitch, electric braking system, since we no longer have our camper to pull...due to our poor health we are willing to sell this van at a really low price to someone that needs a van like this...this is a C20 van and is an Explorer conversion with has leather seating...the bench seat makes a queen size bed...plus two captains chairs...plus the driver and passenger seat up front...sun-roof, tv, beige carpeting and maple wood accents....the van only has 73K miles, michlin tires all around and we are only the second owner...champagne exterior...we live in elizabethton TN.
Thanks for the reply. Is there an email at which I can write to you? Also, can you tell me what year the van is? Do you happy to have any photos you can send? It sounds like a really well-kept vehicle and we are in the market for a Explorer Conversion Van.
I'd love to discuss via email or phone. Please let me know your email and I'll drop you a note.
Yes, I do have some pics I can send you if I can figure out how to send via this post...The van is a 1995 model year and had 53000 on it when I bought it...now 73K...Since the van is an older model I have been offering it for $9995.00 but am willing to take less if I can sell it before spring when it will go up to $9995.00...so I will continue to try to send you pics....roger 70
Thanks for attaching some pictures to your page. The van looks really nice. Do you have any pictures of the interior as well? Also, are you able to put luggage on the top of the van?
Also, your profile says your email is "private", so I'm unable to email you directly.
pull up one of my postings that I replied to you and click on....roger70....a screen will come up showing some info which has my email address...Also I will try to send you some interior pics...roger70
We have a used conversion van with 152 K miles. It has all the bells and whistles that comes with a full conversion van (leather seats, CD, DVD, VCR, front and back bucket seats, fold down bed, power windows). Runs excellent. We purchased the van basically brand new with 400 miles and have enjoyed it immensely. We recently purchased a new vehicle and want to sell the van for $7500. We are located in Williamsburg, VA and will send photos.
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram conversion van (Regency). It has 135k miles. Just this year, the Check Engine started coming on and going off. Today, it is off (smiles). What is that???? It drives just fine and doesn't sound different. I asked someone about it and they said they had the same thing happen to them and they just ignored it; that it had something to do with the emission system. Any ideas? I have to watch my money, which is why I haven't had it checked out. If it isn't going to hurt anything to keep driving it that way, I won't worry about it, but if it is, I would like to get the problem fixed.
We are seeking a conversion van. The specs are listed as follow: Year Make: 2000 or newer Mileage: Around 80,000 or more No High Top Prefered passenger door on drivers side too.
Hi, I am looking at buying a conversion van.. One I am looking at is a 1991 Dodge Fiesta Conversion Van, 50,000 miles, could you give me an idea of price and waht trouble things I should be looking at. My friends say that ford has the best older vans? this is a new venture for me, I want something that will last a while and I don't have to work on .. can you give me an idea of a price. bama
We have a 1991 Chevy Conversion Van the Tiara Package that we have been considering selling but we can't find a way to find a value for selling. It has 37,000 orginial miles on it. It is garage kept. Has never been in snow. Still has the tags on the underneath carriage. This vehicle is in mint condition but we can't find a way of finding the pricing for it. Can someone tell me where I can find out how to price it? Most of the sites don't take the conversion packages into play.
I need advise on a used Chevy G-20 conversion van 1993,( 2 owners and maintained,) .. 150,000 miles. Never owned a vehicle of this kind, completely ignorant, into this kind of travel. I did not want to spend too much and if I did not like the conversion van, I want to be able to turn around and sell it. someone give me advise please... What is a range of a fair price for this vehicle? what I should be looking for when I get a mechanic to look over?.. oh I also want to drive it to vermont this summer...from Colorado
My husband and I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 high top conversion van with an engine that needs replacing. It's in decent shape (78,000 miles, air works but only on HIGH, inside is clean) but has some flaws (no ext. damage but needs new paint, pass. window doesn't work). It's been difficult to get a value on it online and we don't know if it's worth it to fix it and try to sell it or just salvage it? Any advice is appreciated.
Hi. my mother in law needs to sell my late father- in laws van. i'd like to get an idea of what to ask. The KBB and similar web sites are not detailed enough. It's a 2001 Ram1500 Enterprise XR hightop. It has about 86K miles, 318 V8, Michelins, 4 captains chairs (cloth), rear bench/ bed, DVD player and in very good cond, except for the airbag light on at times (dealer has been unable to fix). Thanks!
We have a 2006 Savana Van customized by Sherrod Vans, low top that is in excellent condition. I am looking at trying to get a asking price but so far not a large amount of luck. Where would someone suggest we look or try?
You can get the computer codes scanned for free at some AutoZone or NAPA type stores. It's probably the upstream oxygen sensor not yet failed, but starting to go flaky and giving out intermittent bogus signals. Eventually it will fail and the check engine light will stay on until you fix it.
I have the same van with about the same milage and my oxygen sensor has been wonky for about a year. I keep resetting the check engine light and it stays away for a couple months at a time.
I bought a cheap ELM327 based scanner that connects my van to my laptop and reads the engine computer. Pretty handy, especially if you do your own repairs.
Realy, Hat’s off. Well done, as we know that “hard work always pays off”, after a long struggle with sincere effort it’s done. This action proof to be a win, win situation. This is a true art work, which will be a success story.There’s usually a good bunch of talent nominated- they just don’t usually win. The initiative taken for the concern is very serious and need an attention of every one. This is the concern which exists in the society and needs to be eliminated from the society as soon as possible. ============================== Compare Van Insurance
Auto zone and advance auto does free readings on check engine lights. I had to replace my sensor 2 it was $60.00's for the part and then you have to pay someone for the labor. But if you bring it to them they can tell you whats wrong with it and then buy the part right there. Auto zone has better prices.
hello, I have a 98 For econoline 150 Mark 3 conversion van I need to sell. I looked on NADA and KBB and can't even get an idea on pricing it. It has 148,000 miles, power windows, power doors, AC and heat work, tv and dvd player in the back, 4.2L V6 engine, automatic trans, tortoise top, cloth interior. gold exterior, beige inteiror. no dents, everything works, the paint on the tortoise top is chipping in a couple of spots, but no where else on the vehicle. 4 captains chairs and a bench seat. I live in Georgia, if that makes a difference. Thanks!
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Thanks
I just purchased a 2001 Ram Ram Vam 1500 conversion. I'm having problems with my heater. It only goes on High and thats it's. Is this an easy fix or what????? and can someone give me some idea's on what's going on. I love this vehicle and could not pass up buying it.
Also, check Amazon.com for books (besides the Haynes manual) about getting more Miles-Per-Gallon. Oddly, one of the best ones was written in the 1970's, when few cared about such things. Included will be driving techniques that will improve your mileage, such as knowing when to "make" the automatic transmission shift up (by letting up on the gas), but not lugging the engine. Then start by installing (or having it installed) a tachometer. This will let you see your RPMs vs. speed; which will help you keep your foot light. The lower RPMs (again, without lugging the engine), the better. Also, more horsepower=more mpg, as long as you don't increase the fuel intake to the engine. Ways to add horsepower would be installing a high-flow oiled permanent air filter (which you clean and re-oil) like K&N or similar. Remove the resonator to your air filter box--its only there to keep the noise down, and restricts airflow. Install some premium, hot spark plugs, like Bosch 4-way (has 4 sparks instead of one), along with a copper or brass connector distributor cap and rotor (standard Ford ones have aluminum, which produce poor contacts). Upgrade your ignition coil and wires (find out how many volts your current ignition coil puts out, and doubling it will help). Don't forget to change the fuel filter and transmission filter and fluid, AND the differential fluid (most people and mechanics have forgotten this since most cars are front-wheel drive now). Remove, clean, and repack/regrease your wheel bearings. Make sure your rear drum brakes DO NOT drag, even a little (this is contrary to installation instructions). If you get really serious, you can lower the suspension, add heavier and additional sway bars and spring leaves, with heavy-duty shorter springs and shocks. This limits and controls body sway. Super-serious--add large-rim wheels and low-profile tires (rather than the Ford balloon tires) to decrease sway, increase tire pressure (up to 65 lbs), and decrease rolling resistance. (If that's too much, just get slightly lower-profile tires-and a bit skinnier-next tire change. Be sure to get tires that inflate to 44psi, minimum, and the tread is made for rain mostly (not the noisy mud & snow tires). You can even over-inflate your current tires about 2-3psi without harm. Check into installing a dual-exhaust system next time you need muffler work--and get free-flowing mufflers (and catalytic converters, if possible). A true dual-exhaust system will connect both exhaust pipes coming from the engine, usually between the catalytic converters and mufflers. At the end of your tailpipe, add a short piece of pipe that allows the exhaust to exit at a 90-degree angle to the windflow...not a sharp bend, just a 30-degree with the end part cut at an angle is best. This allows the wind (when driving) to help 'pull' the exhaust gases out. Free-flowing exhaust adds horsepower. Maybe you can get an airfoil or "wing" to put on the top rear of the van, to smooth out the airflow. Standard vans have an airflow that curls clockwise (from driver's side) behind the van, and adds drag, actually 'pulling' the van back. An aerodynamic "bug-shield" on the hood and window rain shields help the airflow, also--you can then crack the side windows up to 2 or 3 inches without it adding drag to the vehicle. Adding window-tint saves on air-conditioning (don't run it unless you need to, it eats gas) and unused seats (like the rear bench) or other things can be removed to reduce weight. Keep the engine clean & grease-free, and keep the van washed and waxed. These are the basics, but there's plenty more. A Ford E-150 with the 302 (5.0 liter) fuel-injected engine can get up to 30mpg or more on the highway (keeping it under 60mph). The 4.7-liter SOHC or DOHC engines, 2, 3, or 4-valve (whichever you have, I'm not sure) can do even better, possibly, since they have more horsepower in the stock engine. BUT--be sure to do your research, and if needed, search, search, and search some more for a very good, knowledgable, trustworthy mechanic. Hard to find nowadays.
It will have a few wires going to it in the form of a plug. Pull the plug off with the fan turned off and remove the small unit with the resistors and take it to an auto parts store and they can check it for you. If this is not it then the switch might be bad. I think you are going to find the resistor bad. Good luck.
My biggest complaint is the drum brakes on the rear & some wind noise from around the doors that I can't seem to get rid of.
It listed originally around $50,000. I bought it in 2001 used from the original owner with 19,000 miles for $23,000.
I would shop for a low mile used as opposed to a new one.
They do seem to depreciate quickly in price and as they are usually owned by more mature people are in pretty good condition.
I would try to get one from the southwest though because of corrosion.
Here is the link to the NADA page to search Van/Truck Conversion Values.
http://www.nadaguides.com/usedcars.aspx?LI=1-21-1-5004-641-627-50311&l=1&w=21&p=- 38&f=5693&gc=VL>c=CN&c=26&any=0
I'm interested in learning more about the hi-top conversion van you have for sale. Where are you located? My husband and I would like to find a well-kept, well-maintained conversion van for our growing family.Any info your could provide would be helpful! Thanks!
Thanks for the reply. Is there an email at which I can write to you? Also, can you tell me what year the van is? Do you happy to have any photos you can send? It sounds like a really well-kept vehicle and we are in the market for a Explorer Conversion Van.
I'd love to discuss via email or phone. Please let me know your email and I'll drop you a note.
Thanks Roger!
Thanks! Some photos would be great! Let me know if there is anything I can do to help.
Thanks for attaching some pictures to your page. The van looks really nice. Do you have any pictures of the interior as well? Also, are you able to put luggage on the top of the van?
Also, your profile says your email is "private", so I'm unable to email you directly.
Thanks! We'll wait to hear from you!
The specs are listed as follow:
Year Make: 2000 or newer
Mileage: Around 80,000 or more
No High Top
Prefered passenger door on drivers side too.
I am looking at buying a conversion van.. One I am looking at is a 1991 Dodge Fiesta Conversion Van, 50,000 miles, could you give me an idea of price and waht trouble things I should be looking at. My friends say that ford has the best older vans?
this is a new venture for me, I want something that will last a while and I don't have to work on .. can you give me an idea of a price. bama
Can someone tell me where I can find out how to price it? Most of the sites don't take the conversion packages into play.
I have the same van with about the same milage and my oxygen sensor has been wonky for about a year. I keep resetting the check engine light and it stays away for a couple months at a time.
I bought a cheap ELM327 based scanner that connects my van to my laptop and reads the engine computer. Pretty handy, especially if you do your own repairs.
==============================
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