I always apply the parking brake in my 01 Accent GS when parking the car, eventhough it (the car) is an automatic. Today when leaving the parking lot at work, I released the hand brake, put the tranny in drive and eased on the gas to pull away. Just as I did this, there was a fairly loud bang, like the park brake had seized and suddenly let go. I noticed no odd sensations in the brakes while driving home. The park brake has never seized in my car before ... it was parked for only 8 hours and on level pavement. Is it normal for the P.B. to stick like that? Will it harm the brake or any other component of my car by slightly seizing and suddenly releasing?
$8700 is a great price for a car. I paid $8350 plus about $775 in taxes and fees. It came to about $9100 or so. It was a 2001 leftover. I got white. I prefered Green or red. I now like white more. You paid the right price for your car. The GL is only about a $1000.00 more and the dealer throws in A/C sometimes.I went to another dealer and almost bought the Accent L for $8500 with no A/C.
The people here on Long Island make good salaries but the cost of living is sky high. Lots of people here drive Hyundais. Take care. I hope you enjoy your car. Its a fun car.
I was interested in purchasing a 1997 Accent for 2500 and I was wondering if that is a good bargain. Also the life span of the car and if they face major mechanical problems.
I have experienced the same banging sound after releasing the parking brake and backing up in my 5-speed Accent. It has happened twice on my car. It could very well just be the brakes adjusting since it has only happened a few times. I have never had any problems with how the brakes operate so I'm not concerned. Now, if it happened everytime I backed up, than that could indicate a problem.
Its great that you got financing. Make sure your allowed to prepay the balance on your loan without penalties. Even if the dealer charges you a higher rate, take it. You can payoff your loan with your credit card and transfer the credit card balance to another card Co. with a 0% balance transfer . Sometimes the card co. offers 1 year with o% if you transfer. AT&T credit offers this. I'm saving about $600 on this and I can pay it off with time. And there's no requirement that you carry collission, theft/fire, so you can cancel that coverage after a couple of years. Please get information about this before you payoff your balance.
The "bang" I described earlier happened twice last week while pulling ahead from a dead stop after the parking brake was released ... it hasn't happened since though ... ??
Anyone out there compare the 2 when shopping for a car? If so, what were your findings and conclusions other than the Echo gets better gas mileage and is a Toyota?
Also, what is a good price for an 02 GL with auto and A/C? How is the gas mileage? I am kind of concerned that the Accent with a 1.6 automatic is rated at 25/35 which is just a mpg or 2 better than the heavier and more powerful Elantra.
I drove off the lot with my 2000 Accent L with air conditioning including taxes, title, and registration for $10,700. I don't think you are going to be able to do that with the Echo. The Accent is about 200 pounds heavier than the Echo. Does this make a difference in stability on the highway? Yes. The Accent came with defroster, intermittent wipers, power steering, power brakes, and other thoughtful amenities. Better check the Echo closely to see what you get, and at what price. The mileage figure for the Accent is conservative. I regularly get 39.5 mpg on the highway, the car practically runs on fumes. The hatchback is extremely useful for carrying bulky items. I like this car. No problems at 18,500 miles....
I think the Echo is a tromendous value if you get a stripped version, but if you start putting options on, the car gets expensive.. it's not very yummy to have a car when it's own brother (the corolla) outvalues it..LoL
Well, things are not better. The car (2001 Accent)runs terrible until it warms up, then only adequately. It is in the shop today for the fourth time in about 2 months, and they are telling me it has the same codes as before, that is, bad spark plugs and ignition coil. They have already changed the spark plugs twice and the coil once with no improvement.
Now, however, they are trying to blame me. They asked me what weight oil I used when I changed it, which was 10w30, and which I also know is just fine. They also didn't like that I used a Purolator filter instead of their filter, but I used that brand based on recommendations from this page that I still believe were good recommendations. Regardless, they are changing the oil and filter, who knows what other weight they will use, but it just seems pointless to me. Can anyone here see how this could help? Does any of this make sense?
Your 10w30 oil should be just fine, that is what I am using. I use Deutsch, Bosch, and STP filters, guess what, these filters are identical except for the labeling. The spark plug and coil part of the problem is making me very suspicious. I once had a car that constantly fouled plugs. But it wasn't because the plugs were bad. The thermostat wasn't allowing the engine to reach full operating temperature and carbon shorted the plugs as a result. Shorted plugs could damage the coil, too. Check your temperature gauge. Does it go half way up within the first 4 or 5 minutes of operation? I get the impression that correct operating temperature is going to be crucial for the proper operation of this car...
Well, my horn quit again, but this time I was able to track down the problem. It's the relay malfunctioning. I took the relay out and banged it on the concrete and than plugged it back in and the horn worked a few times and than quit. You can hear the relay click in a funny way every now and than, just like the radiator fan relay did on my VW when it started acting up. So now I need to get a new relay. I'm hoping the dealer has one in stock. I'm still debating whether I will try and make them pay for it. The problem is it may work right when I go down there and than they won't care what I have determined the problem to be so I may just pay for it myself to avoid the hassle of proving the relay is bad.
I compared the two before buying my Echo. Given its size, the Accent was the strongest contender among the Hyundai line.
Yes, I know I could have gotten an Accent comparably equipped cheaper than what I paid for my Echo, but the Toyota matched or beat the Hyundai in all the areas that were important to me. Price was somewhat important, but it took a back seat to those areas listed below.
Those areas (not in order of importance) are safety, expected resale value, initial quality, expected reliability, and fuel economy. Actually any of these areas are just about as important as another. That is why I say they are not listed in order of importance.
Styling wise, I like my Echo better, but the Accent has always been a sharp little car.
Not sure I believe the poster, but one guy with an auto Echo claims to have gotten gas mileage in the mid 40s.
Hyundai does seem to be making great strides. I will be interested in seeing how they fare in the 2002 J.D. Powers survey of initial quality.
I don't mean to sound super critical, but why is it when a car has a problem, someone always seem to say, "oh that is typical of Toyotas so I wouldn't worry about it,"?
I have a Toyota and have had it for almost nine months and 15,000 miles now. I have never had my car go bang when releasing the parking brake.
My roommate's son's fiancee has a '93 Corolla and she has never had a "bang."
I have a friend who had an older Camry (pre-90s) and it never had a bang. She now has a '98 Camry and it has never had a bang.
If one make's car has a problem, wouldn't it be more reassuring to say, "oh, all cars from that make do it,"?
Again, I am not trying to stir up trouble. Just want an explanation.
If it were me and the car was still under warranty where it would not cost you anything to get it fixed, I would take it to the dealer. If the horn refuses to cooperate and works when you get there, stay there until the problem is repeated.
I have obtained an average MPG of 43.5 for my automatic ECHO since buying it new about 15500 miles ago. If you give me your e-mail I'll gladly send you (or anyone else interested) my Excel spreadsheet that includes every cent and every fill-up since the purchase of the car.
I got the relay and paid for it myself (took 2 days to order part and apparently the same relay is used in Mitsubishi products but they didn't have one either). The horn was working normally both times I went to the dealer so I just paid the $14.20 to avoid the hassles of my dealer's service department. So far it seems to have fixed the problem. As long as I can count on it again, I will be happy.
If it were me, I would have made the dealer fix it. What is the point of buying a car and having a warranty if the level of service causes you to have to shell out the money from your own pocket?
Yes, even for $14, I would feel this way, but hey, I am a cheap...... ; )
Normally I would feel the same way, but my time is worth a lot more than a measly $14. The fact the problem was very intermittent meant that the dealer may not have been able to reproduce the problem. And as you know, if they don't see the problem, than they aren't going to try and fix it. But since I knew what the problem was, I figured saving all that hassle and time would be worth the $14. My other reason for doing it was the fact that my service department has crappy customer service. I got in a cussing fight with my service advisor last time because he lied to me, so I try to avoid him at all costs. Not to mention that the dealer only has 1 Hyundai technician on hand which means there are long waits. Now, if I had a more major problem, I wouldn't have a problem taking it to the dealer. But this time, I let it slide. I'm sure you can understand my reasoning better now.
I went out to help car shop for my cousin who was interested in a used 97' Accent GL. The dealer wanted 8900 for it, which is WAY TOO MUCH, although it only had aruond 24k miles. I manage to help lower it down to 5500+sales tax, etc..but I still feel thats alot.. what do you guys think?
Thanks for telling us the mileage, but don't really have enough information to go on.
But does it really matter. The car is bought so why do you want to know if it is a good deal? It's not like you can take the car back.
But if you really want to know if it was a good deal, you can go to the used car section of Edmunds and see what the probably dealer price would be. You can also check out prices at KBB.com or NADA.com.
You are right that $8900 is way too much for that car. I don't care if it only has 24k miles and is in show room condition. It is still a 5 year old car. And it is not a 5 year old BMW. It is a five year old economy car.
Put my first 300 miles on my new car. So far ,so good. I love this little car ! I highly recommend this car to anyone considering an economy car. The Hyundai Accent GL is a delight to drive. Its a little noisy when it accelerates but its not too bad. The A/C is real real cool. I keep it down on 1 speed most of the time. The radio is top notch. Nice crisp sound. The interior is so wonderful. The seats are fully adjustable with lumbar control and they are real plush. It comes with a quartz digital clock, interior gas and trunk release buttons, dual mirrors, power steering, power breaks, intermit ant wipers,air bags, drivers seat arm rest,60/40 split folding rear seats, tachometer, mirror,cup holders. I got this car for $8400 plus tax and misc. expenses. Total was about $9100 or so. My dealer gave me free lifetime oil changes and a free tire replacement guarantee. If you plan on buying the car, wait till the end of the year and get a left over car. Mine was left over. My color selection was limited. Either White or gray. I chose white. Glad I did! I never would have bought a car now if it wasn't for the car ad. The car dealer advertised a brand new 2001 Accent GL for $5800 or so. I went to the dealer and they told me they had to add shipping, delivery and other expenses so the real cost ballooned to $8400. At first I was angry that I wasn't getting the car for that much. But I thought they couldn't sell the car that cheap. The MSRP on the sticker was $11,274 so I figured $8400 plus free oil changes for life was a steal nonetheless. I bought a 1992 Mitsubishi Mirage hatchback brand new in 1992 and paid $6400 (tax included). The car was stripped. No a/c, radio. It didn't have power steering or brakes . Almost 10 years later, I bought this Hyundai accent for only $2700 more and its loaded with everything except power windows. When I bought the 1992 car, it was the cheapest car in the entire market.
If your considering the Hyundai Accent, buy it. Its a wonderful value. The car should easily be selling for much more. I guess Hyundai is trying to change public opionion and there selling it cheap to attract people who would otherwise look at other cars. The only thing I don't like, it has no tilt steering wheel. I have to squeeze in to get in. The average person shouldn't have any trouble. I'm 6-6. Once I get around the steering wheel, i have plenty of leg room and most importantly, the head rest is behind my head. In my other car, the headrest wasn't high enough.
Thanks aldag for the response, but the temperature gauge seems to indicate a normal warm-up time. Here is how things stand at the moment. They went ahead and changed the oil to 5W-30, and it does seems BETTER, but still not good. The check engine light has done it's flashing routine only once since I got it back, but even once is one time too many in my book. The biggest issue now is that they seem to have made other things worse. In particular, when idling after being fully warmed up, the entire car shakes. Now I know this is not the smoothest running car around anyway, but does anyone else experience this? The vibration is enough to feel almost like a massage chair when I just sit there in park. If I very lightly touch the gas, all of the vibration goes away. Finally, I was reading a little brochure about the Accent that Hyundai sent to me after I bought the car, and it states that a flashing check engine light may indicate a malfunctioning catalytic converter, and that one should pull over immediately and call road side assisstance. This scares me a bit.
Given all of that, what do you think I should do now? I have zero faith in my dealership. Reading the online service manual, it stated somewhere that rough idling may indicate a malfunctioning vaccuum system. In my mind, this makes perfect sense considering the evidence, including constantly fouled plugs, and at least apparent emission problems indicated by the flashing check engine light. Perhaps a messed up PCV valve? Then again, I do not pretend to be a mechanic, and know little about cars. I am just trying to use common sense.
Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Awhile back someone asked about the stereo opening in the 2000 Accent, and there was no adapter. Is there one now? Will a standard aftermarket head unit fit into the rounded opening? Has anyone actually installed a stereo in an Accent?
Sounds to me like your car is idling a little too low, which could be caused by a clogged PCV valve, malfunctioning mass airflow sensor or oxygen sensor (the last 2 would definitely set off your Check engine light). My car vibrates a little in neutral as well. It can be felt through the seat and floor, but it's not as bad as what you are describing. I highly doubt you have a catalytic converter problem though. If that was bad, you would either have a strong rotten egg smell or a significant reduction in power. I'm sorry you are having a repetitive problem, but it sounds like your dealer just doesn't know what he is doing. Try your best to find another dealer and see if they can't fix the problem for you. Good luck!
Has anyone had any experiences with a '99 Accent. A local dealer has one (A/T) with 24,000 miles on it. They're asking $7,995 which seems a little steep.
My wife drives a 4-door 99 Accent GL that has 30,000km (19,000 miles) on it and so far, the car has been very reliable and relatively easy on fuel. Can't comment on the price, as it's in American dollars ... but an earlier post said he got a new 01 Accent for $8,500 U.S. , so $7,995 U.S. for a 99 might very well be a little stiff ...
Waiting for a tow for my 99 Accent now. The air bag light went on last night and both headlights (high beam) burned out. Looks like the alternator is putting out too much voltage and overcharging the battery. I hope the air bag control box isn't fried. The worst thing is tha car has 61,880 miles on it so no warranty.
I think that '97 with 24K would be worth $3500-$4000, maybe $4500 if everything works and nothing is chipped or scratched.
I also think that '99 with 24K would be worth about $5500-$6000, again, $6500 if you can't find anything not showroom perfect.
Both are GL's, which mean that they are sedans, not hatchbacks, and worth a little more just for that.
But remember, a new '01 GL sedan with automatic, air, and cassette, after $500 rebate, is $11,244. And that is before any dealer discounts, trade-ins, or cash down. The '02 has the same price, the base price was raised $692 and AC was made standard, but you lose the rebate, but you get a newer car. So the '02 will cost you $11,744 before any discounts or such. I would expect dealers to discount the '01s to under $10,000, maybe you could get one with 5-speed for $9500 or so.
Shop around for the best price. Don't pay $11,274 for this car. Thats the sticker price. I see other postings and laugh at the high prices people paid for this car. I got mine for $8400 (plus tax) and free oil changes for life. My car was a 2001 accent GL with A/C. It was brand new! Even at this riduculous price, my dealer probably made a profit. Don't believe the dealer when he says its the lowest price. If you live close to NY (Long Island) , and your willing to buy here,The dealers name is Millenium Hyundai in Hempstead NY. If you need more info, just let me know.
I would assume that the dealer has the products and know how to install these lights. I have a 2001 GSi and it came equipped with the fog lights. So to answer your question, the dealer should have the exact fit, or at least the ability to acquire them, as well they probably have a (MOP) method of procedure for installation complete with the switch.
Well, my dealer had my car for a few more days, yet it came back almost exactly the same. They said the check engine code indicated a misfire in #3, the same as two other times (other times it had been multiple cylinders though), and all they could do was squirt in some cleaner and hope for the best. They also said that Hyundai would require the removal of the cylinder head if it came back with the same codes again. I don't know too much, but I know that taking off the head is a pretty serious thing, isn't it? What could they possibly find out by doing this, that they can't find out some other way? So far, no engine light, but it runs almost as rough, so it is probably just a matter of time.
Anyway, I am tired of this car, so I am lightly considering trading it in for something else. What could I expect for it? It is a 2001 GS package 3/automatic with about 8800 miles on it. Maybe I am just too picky, and someone else wouldn't mind the problems. I don't know what to do.
GL 5speed. 5000+ miles in 8 weeks. Runs like new. Same mileage (about 35) after oil change. Comfy, good AC, nice radio. Got rear-ended on the interstate, minimal damage. While its in the shop, I've got a Ford Escort rental. It sucks! Mushy, underpowered, uncomfortable. Can't wait to get the Accent back. I think dashingwave is spoofing us or his dealer got a fire sale on a bunch of Accents. Mine's sticker was $11000. Edmond's says "invoice" is $10200. I offered $10400 and they gave it to me with no fuss, so I guess I could have gone lower. They did have rust-proofing and detailing on it for free, i.e., nothing added to the sticker, so I figure that was worth a few hundred bucks, and the detailing adds a lot to the appearance. Anyway, sucker or not, I'm happy with this little car so far.
Glad to hear you're happy with your new car, and very sorry to hear about your accident. Hopefully, it will be be back together soon, and you'll be on the road again with your Accent.... Thanks again for sharing the details. ;-)
My 99 Accent ran great for the first 60,000 miles. But at 61,800 miles the alternator blew out and took the headlights with it. The dealer charged me $438 to fix it!! And the new alternator is only garranteed for 12,000 miles. I have already driven 3,000 miles. I will naver go back to that dealer again!!! It had to break 1800 miles after the warranty, figures. Two weeks after that the battery died and left me stranded at a gas station. I hsd to call the roadside assistance to give me a jump. Instead of driving to the hated dealership I took my Wife's Elantra and got a new battery at Wallmart. I just found out the battery was still under warranty! Hyundai has a two year free replacemen warranty for the battery. Unfortunetly the battery was 2 years and one month old when it failed. Hyundai will still pay 75 % though. Now I got to get a hold of Hyundai and see if I can get my $33.10 back (75% of $44.14). The car still runs and looks great though. I wonder what will happen to my engine or trans at 102,000 miles.
Well, I am more or less resigned to keeping my car for the long haul, I've definitely had worse. With this decision, I just want to make it run as well as possible. I figure since they think the plugs are responsible for making the car run rough (they have replaced them twice, or so they say), I would like to put in the best possible. Any recommendations? I have heard that the Bosch Platinum+4 plugs are above average. Anyone used these? They don't have a part number for the 2001 1.6L, but since the normal Hyundai part number is the same as the 2000, then the 2000 Bosch plugs should work, right?
I used Bosch platinum tip plugs in a 94 Excel that I once owned and found them to be excellent! Wife's 99 Accent just passed 30,000 km and I've noticed that the car is idling a little rougher than it should lately ... maybe it's time to have a new set of plugs installed ... I wouldn't hesitate to use Bosch again!
Put the Bosh +4 plugs in my 99 Accent at 30,000 miles. They ran great, then replaced them with a new set of Bosh +4's at 60,000 miles. The set that ran 30,000 miles still looked to be in great shape. I can reccomend the Bosh plugs.
I installed Bosch +4 in my '00 Accent 1.5 liter. They seemed to help the car rev a teeny bit quicker, but overall I noticed no real difference. I was hoping for a fuel economy boost, but it only made about a 0.5 mpg improvement in the city. I would recommend getting the regular Bosch Platinum plugs as you save 3 bucks a plug and still get the same 100,000 mile range. With my experience, I see no reason to pay the extra money for the +4. I think the +4 is a gimmick. The regular Bosch Platinum plugs are definitely a higher quality plug than the cheap Champions that come from the factory. So hopefully that will help your engine run smoother. As for part numbers, if the Hyundai part number is the same for the 1.5 and 1.6 liter engine than yes, u can use the '00 Bosch part number. I used the '99 number to buy my '00 plugs, but I called the dealer and made sure there was no part number difference between the '99 1.5 and the '00 1.5. Good luck on getting your car back to normal!
I just bought a new 2002 GS 5-speed with the CD package (beautiful Coastal Blue). I found the dealer via the Internet, and although he didn't have the car I wanted in stock, he found it in Rhode Island and drove it the 80 miles or so for me. His original quote was "$100 above invoice," but he ended up charging me $10,800, which is $13 less than the dealer invoice he showed me (including the advertising fee). I got a slightly better quote from another dealer, but the one I chose was about half as far away from both home and work.
I've only had the car for four days now, but so far I like nearly everything. The sound system is very clear (I'm hearing things in familiar radio commercials that I had missed until now, for instance). I find it very comfortable to drive, too: I'm 6'1" tall, and this is only the second car I've ever driven where I can't operate the pedals if I push the seat all the way back! There's plenty of headroom, as well (at least in the front, though my head presses against the liner when I'm in the rear seat).
There are only a couple of things I'm not thrilled with so far. First, if I let someone into the rear seat from the driver's side, I have to readjust the seat from scratch -- both the fore-and-aft and seatback angle settings are lost. The other cars I'm familiar with that have the "spring forward" action to facilitate rear-seat access only have it on the passenger side. Second, the heater seems a bit wimpy, taking a long time to warm up the cabin even on these fall mornings. I'm hoping it won't be a problem during the New England winters!
I'm waiting to see what kind of gas mileage I get. I'll do my first fill-up this afternoon, and it's not looking terribly exciting (the gauge is less than 1/4 for about 240 miles). I imagine it will improve, though, as the break-in process continues.
I'll close by thanking the various people who have posted here. I did a lot of Internet research before deciding to commit to the Accent, and the last couple of hundred messages on this board were definitely grist for that mill.
I too was a bit confounded by the driver seat resetting when I first got the car, but it actually does work on both sides once you get the hang of it. The issue involves the fact that the same lever is used to adjust the seat as is used to move it up, so your intentions have to be more 'clear' so the seat knows what to do. In practice, this means making sure to pull the side lever ALL the way up before you move the seat forward. If you pull it most of the way up, the seat will move, but will not reset properly. If you listen closely, there is an audible click or ping when you pull the lever all the way up, and I believe this is the seat somehow marking its settings. As an added measure, I also make sure to continue to hold the lever all the way up until the seatback is all the way tilted and the seat is physically sliding forward, though I am not sure if this really helps. Again, I think the real key is making sure to pull the lever all the way up.
If this doesn't help, or my instructions are in any way not clear, please let me know. I haven't yet bothered to try to look under the seat to see how this actually works, but I know that it does. Try it.
Just passed 20,000 miles and everything seems to be working OK. I enjoy driving the car, especially on the highway. My last fillup was 7 gallons for 280 miles, mostly highway driving. This has been very consistent after the first 6000 or 7000 miles. Around town driving, the mileage drops back to the low 30's per gallon. One thing did break, the small plastic clip for the sun visor, very minor. I am rather tough on the clutch, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts. I rotated the tires this past weekend. The back tires are like new, I anticipate another 20,000 miles to this set of tires which would make them the best original equipment tires I have experienced, from a wear viewpoint. Very economical to buy, economical to run.
Thanks, dbwells, for the suggestion. My impression was that the seat returned to the "default" position, which is about 1-2 clicks forward and 1 click more reclined than my preferred setting. I'll try your technique next time I move it, though, and see what happens. Oh, I had a question, too: how exactly do you move the seat to its original position? Slide the seat first and then rotate the back, or rotate the back and then slide the seat? Or does it matter?
The mileage on my first tank of gas was better than I had feared. It turns out that the gauge is more pessimistic/conservative than I expected: it was showing 1/8 or a bit less, but only took 8.2 gallons. That works out to 31.9 mpg, which is pretty reasonable for the first tank and doing mostly suburban driving.
Comments
were you backing up when that happened ?
You paid the right price for your car. The GL is only about a $1000.00 more and the dealer throws in A/C sometimes.I went to another dealer and almost bought the Accent L for $8500 with no A/C.
The people here on Long Island make good salaries but the cost of living is sky high. Lots of people here drive Hyundais.
Take care. I hope you enjoy your car. Its a fun car.
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Please get information about this before you payoff your balance.
Also, what is a good price for an 02 GL with auto and A/C? How is the gas mileage? I am kind of concerned that the Accent with a 1.6 automatic is rated at 25/35 which is just a mpg or 2 better than the heavier and more powerful Elantra.
Thanks.
Now, however, they are trying to blame me. They asked me what weight oil I used when I changed it, which was 10w30, and which I also know is just fine. They also didn't like that I used a Purolator filter instead of their filter, but I used that brand based on recommendations from this page that I still believe were good recommendations. Regardless, they are changing the oil and filter, who knows what other weight they will use, but it just seems pointless to me. Can anyone here see how this could help? Does any of this make sense?
I am getting fed up!
Please help!
DW
Yes, I know I could have gotten an Accent comparably equipped cheaper than what I paid for my Echo, but the Toyota matched or beat the Hyundai in all the areas that were important to me. Price was somewhat important, but it took a back seat to those areas listed below.
Those areas (not in order of importance) are safety, expected resale value, initial quality, expected reliability, and fuel economy. Actually any of these areas are just about as important as another. That is why I say they are not listed in order of importance.
Styling wise, I like my Echo better, but the Accent has always been a sharp little car.
Not sure I believe the poster, but one guy with an auto Echo claims to have gotten gas mileage in the mid 40s.
Hyundai does seem to be making great strides. I will be interested in seeing how they fare in the 2002 J.D. Powers survey of initial quality.
I have a Toyota and have had it for almost nine months and 15,000 miles now. I have never had my car go bang when releasing the parking brake.
My roommate's son's fiancee has a '93 Corolla and she has never had a "bang."
I have a friend who had an older Camry (pre-90s) and it never had a bang. She now has a '98 Camry and it has never had a bang.
If one make's car has a problem, wouldn't it be more reassuring to say, "oh, all cars from that make do it,"?
Again, I am not trying to stir up trouble. Just want an explanation.
I have obtained an average MPG of 43.5 for my automatic ECHO since buying it new about 15500 miles ago. If you give me your e-mail I'll gladly send you (or anyone else interested) my Excel spreadsheet that includes every cent and every fill-up since the purchase of the car.
No need to send me the spreadsheet, but if you ever want to converse off the board, my email address is in my Edmunds profile.
Yes, even for $14, I would feel this way, but hey, I am a cheap...... ; )
The dealer wanted 8900 for it, which is WAY TOO MUCH, although it only had aruond 24k miles. I manage to help lower it down to 5500+sales tax, etc..but I still feel thats alot.. what do you guys think?
But does it really matter. The car is bought so why do you want to know if it is a good deal? It's not like you can take the car back.
But if you really want to know if it was a good deal, you can go to the used car section of Edmunds and see what the probably dealer price would be. You can also check out prices at KBB.com or NADA.com.
You are right that $8900 is way too much for that car. I don't care if it only has 24k miles and is in show room condition. It is still a 5 year old car. And it is not a 5 year old BMW. It is a five year old economy car.
I highly recommend this car to anyone considering an economy car. The Hyundai Accent GL is a delight to drive. Its a little noisy when it accelerates but its not too bad. The A/C is real real cool. I keep it down on 1 speed most of the time. The radio is top notch. Nice crisp sound. The interior is so wonderful. The seats are fully adjustable with lumbar control and they are real plush. It comes with a quartz digital clock, interior gas and trunk release buttons, dual mirrors, power steering, power breaks, intermit ant wipers,air bags, drivers seat arm rest,60/40 split folding rear seats, tachometer, mirror,cup holders.
I got this car for $8400 plus tax and misc. expenses. Total was about $9100 or so. My dealer gave me free lifetime oil changes and a free tire replacement guarantee.
If you plan on buying the car, wait till the end of the year and get a left over car. Mine was left over. My color selection was limited. Either White or gray. I chose white. Glad I did!
I never would have bought a car now if it wasn't for the car ad. The car dealer advertised a brand new 2001 Accent GL for $5800 or so. I went to the dealer and they told me they had to add shipping, delivery and other expenses so the real cost ballooned to $8400. At first I was angry that I wasn't getting the car for that much. But I thought they couldn't sell the car that cheap. The MSRP on the sticker was $11,274 so I figured $8400 plus free oil changes for life was a steal nonetheless.
I bought a 1992 Mitsubishi Mirage hatchback brand new in 1992 and paid $6400 (tax included). The car was stripped. No a/c, radio. It didn't have power steering or brakes . Almost 10 years later, I bought this Hyundai accent for only $2700 more and its loaded with everything except power windows. When I bought the 1992 car, it was the cheapest car in the entire market.
If your considering the Hyundai Accent, buy it. Its a wonderful value. The car should easily be selling for much more. I guess Hyundai is trying to change public opionion and there selling it cheap to attract people who would otherwise look at other cars.
The only thing I don't like, it has no tilt steering wheel. I have to squeeze in to get in. The average person shouldn't have any trouble. I'm 6-6. Once I get around the steering wheel, i have plenty of leg room and most importantly, the head rest is behind my head. In my other car, the headrest wasn't high enough.
Given all of that, what do you think I should do now? I have zero faith in my dealership. Reading the online service manual, it stated somewhere that rough idling may indicate a malfunctioning vaccuum system. In my mind, this makes perfect sense considering the evidence, including constantly fouled plugs, and at least apparent emission problems indicated by the flashing check engine light. Perhaps a messed up PCV valve? Then again, I do not pretend to be a mechanic, and know little about cars. I am just trying to use common sense.
Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
DW
Thanks,
bill b
I also think that '99 with 24K would be worth about $5500-$6000, again, $6500 if you can't find anything not showroom perfect.
Both are GL's, which mean that they are sedans, not hatchbacks, and worth a little more just for that.
But remember, a new '01 GL sedan with automatic, air, and cassette, after $500 rebate, is $11,244. And that is before any dealer discounts, trade-ins, or cash down. The '02 has the same price, the base price was raised $692 and AC was made standard, but you lose the rebate, but you get a newer car. So the '02 will cost you $11,744 before any discounts or such. I would expect dealers to discount the '01s to under $10,000, maybe you could get one with 5-speed for $9500 or so.
I see other postings and laugh at the high prices people paid for this car.
I got mine for $8400 (plus tax) and free oil changes for life. My car was a 2001 accent GL with A/C. It was brand new!
Even at this riduculous price, my dealer probably made a profit. Don't believe the dealer when he says its the lowest price.
If you live close to NY (Long Island) , and your willing to buy here,The dealers name is Millenium Hyundai in Hempstead NY.
If you need more info, just let me know.
Anyway, I am tired of this car, so I am lightly considering trading it in for something else. What could I expect for it? It is a 2001 GS package 3/automatic with about 8800 miles on it. Maybe I am just too picky, and someone else wouldn't mind the problems. I don't know what to do.
Please, any suggestions are appreciated.
DW
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Any thoughts on this are appreciated,
DW
As for part numbers, if the Hyundai part number is the same for the 1.5 and 1.6 liter engine than yes, u can use the '00 Bosch part number. I used the '99 number to buy my '00 plugs, but I called the dealer and made sure there was no part number difference between the '99 1.5 and the '00 1.5. Good luck on getting your car back to normal!
I've only had the car for four days now, but so far I like nearly everything. The sound system is very clear (I'm hearing things in familiar radio commercials that I had missed until now, for instance). I find it very comfortable to drive, too: I'm 6'1" tall, and this is only the second car I've ever driven where I can't operate the pedals if I push the seat all the way back! There's plenty of headroom, as well (at least in the front, though my head presses against the liner when I'm in the rear seat).
There are only a couple of things I'm not thrilled with so far. First, if I let someone into the rear seat from the driver's side, I have to readjust the seat from scratch -- both the fore-and-aft and seatback angle settings are lost. The other cars I'm familiar with that have the "spring forward" action to facilitate rear-seat access only have it on the passenger side. Second, the heater seems a bit wimpy, taking a long time to warm up the cabin even on these fall mornings. I'm hoping it won't be a problem during the New England winters!
I'm waiting to see what kind of gas mileage I get. I'll do my first fill-up this afternoon, and it's not looking terribly exciting (the gauge is less than 1/4 for about 240 miles). I imagine it will improve, though, as the break-in process continues.
I'll close by thanking the various people who have posted here. I did a lot of Internet research before deciding to commit to the Accent, and the last couple of hundred messages on this board were definitely grist for that mill.
I too was a bit confounded by the driver seat resetting when I first got the car, but it actually does work on both sides once you get the hang of it. The issue involves the fact that the same lever is used to adjust the seat as is used to move it up, so your intentions have to be more 'clear' so the seat knows what to do. In practice, this means making sure to pull the side lever ALL the way up before you move the seat forward. If you pull it most of the way up, the seat will move, but will not reset properly. If you listen closely, there is an audible click or ping when you pull the lever all the way up, and I believe this is the seat somehow marking its settings. As an added measure, I also make sure to continue to hold the lever all the way up until the seatback is all the way tilted and the seat is physically sliding forward, though I am not sure if this really helps. Again, I think the real key is making sure to pull the lever all the way up.
If this doesn't help, or my instructions are in any way not clear, please let me know. I haven't yet bothered to try to look under the seat to see how this actually works, but I know that it does. Try it.
DW
The mileage on my first tank of gas was better than I had feared. It turns out that the gauge is more pessimistic/conservative than I expected: it was showing 1/8 or a bit less, but only took 8.2 gallons. That works out to 31.9 mpg, which is pretty reasonable for the first tank and doing mostly suburban driving.