Can anyone email me step-by-step instructions on how to tune-up a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 3.5 engine? or Can anyone tell me where I can obtained the same?
First off, thanks for all of the info. It was nice to know that others were having the same mysterious problem, the 4wd light flashing with the ABS coming on shortly after and stayin on. I have an '01 Montero Sport ES. Through reading through the posts, I noticed a common theme, almost all of us were not using the 4wd system. I was ready to pull everything apart and follow the instructions provided. I thought first I would try something else...using the 4wd system. So I went into 4wdHigh and same prob kept occuring. I then went into 4wdLow and drove around for about 5 minutes at a time for about3-4 times. Low and behold, the flashing light is gone and hasn't come on for two days now, fingers crossed!! I figure that the problem was because I havent used it so I used it. I hope this helps before people start spending money Once again thanks. FG
Hi, the same think, 4wd flashing and later ABS turn on. I take off the two selenoids, one was 38 ohm, and the other one 110K ohm. For to know if working, i put 12Vdc with a battery a one of them (110k ohm, the yelow one) sound a clik!, strangely the other with 38 ohm is dead, no sound. I Injekted W40 in the two selenoids and dip in alcohol for one night. At next day the yelow one sound more loud, but the other one sound low. Well, in my country the original replacement cost about $200 Us dolars (sud-america). but I find a similar selenoid (korean) with the same three nozzles, but with other form ($36 US, each one). And Work perfect. Just necesary was change one, the blue one. If they can tell me where i can upload pictures please? Thanks a lot I save arround $500
I need a part for the transfer case on a 2000 Montero Sport. The parts I need have been discontinued. I need the nylon? ball and all that goes on the bottom of the shifter to keep it in place. Seems item has been discontinued and the shop can't even get a part number. Anyone have a heads up on this? I'm going to swear off anything Mitsubishi if this holds. Anyone have a parts diagram? thanks
i have a problem my montero sport does not shift into gear in the morning or after it sat there for 1 hr and when it does move it gives me a big jolt before running can some one help me please
After finding this forum when experiencing this exact problem I was extremely happy! Big question though... While researching the part, I found a pre-2000 to 2000 solenoid, and a 2001-2005 solenoid.
Unfortunately the parts site, does not show actual part numbers, so I can not tell which is which. (I own a 2000) - For those that have ordered and/or replaced this part, was the number different than posted in the forum?
Ahhhh... the parts site, has a part number lookup. I can look up the MR263723 Freewheel Clutch Valve, but it doesn't indicate a year. Anyone know if there is actually a different switch for different years?
Light on took to Advance and they read it Multiple Cylinder Misfire everyone concured that is needed a tuneup I took it in for tune-up and oil change which is done every 3-5 k Wires plugs coil pack and PC Valve included 75K mileage low... On drive home doing same thing and just as bad Looked under it to see if something leaking and pipe glowing red on passenger side before 1st catalytic converter. I have 2 on this and it Y's out. Now they say probably need new catalytic converters and probably need both. Someone else said perhaps it is in the fuel tank and needs a fuel cleaner or just keep driving it I am concerned with the red glowing pipe to drive it so it is parked........ Just spent around $450 before gettng into the expense of catalytic converters is there anything else to check.....or do I just go with what they say.....Saying 550 for parts plus labor is this right? Otherwise car has been great.
I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport XS. Two days ago the 4x4 stopped working and there is a rattling sound underneath as if something is loose. Is my 4x4 transmission shot or is there something else going on telling the computer to the 4x4 to stop working? Has anyone had this problem with the 4x4 just stopping? We live in Colorado and presently can't get it out of the driveway due to the 4x4 not working. It's even hard to just move it forward; the back right tire spins and obviously can't get traction (snow and ice) and the back left tire does nothing. Wondering if this is because of it's independent rear suspension? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated since I will need to tow it soon to a technician to have it serviced. Would like to give them some insight based on others experience. Thanks!
I have to thank you and the rest of the people posted there problems and how they solve it. I have a 2000 Montero Sprt LS 4WD and have almost 113,000 miles and still in good condition. For the past year, I had been having the same problem with my 4WD light blinking then the "Anti lock" light turns on after a couple of miles driving. Bought the part(MR263723 Freewhell clutch solenoid valve) at my local Mits. dealership for $92 (tax included) plus $110 labor, done! problem was fixed. Thanks again.
I have a 2003 Montero Sport LS. I want to add a trailer hitch for towing a small open trailer and one horse trailer. What do I need to make sure the car is ready for a hitch, i.e., brake lights, etc.
Thank you all for the help, after reading all the posts I went straight to my local dealer and bought the Freewheel Solenoid Valve for $94, I am not a mechanic but I consider my self quite handy, so I decided to do the work my self, quite frankly, this is really simple, just remove the air filter and right below you'll find the valves, 2 more bolts and that's it, the only tricky part is to remove all the hoses, just make sure you remember to order so you know which one goes where when mounting the new valve.
I got some pictures of the work I did, posted them on flickr:
Bottom line, thanks to this forum I fixed the flashing 4x4 light with ABS light coming on after 10 minutes aprox. for just the cost of the part and the time invested. My advice, if you have some skills under the hood, save yourself the labor costs and do it yourself.
I have a 2002 Montero Sport XLS AWD that is stuck in Fail-Safe. This is the second time that this has happened in three months. The first time, it was happening during snow and ice mostly, but sometimes not. Turning the vehicle off for a few seconds seemed to fix the problem. Finally, wife convinced me to take it in. Mitsubishi gave me an 54 Error code. I bought the A/T Fail Safe Control Relay for 20.00 from Mitsubishi and put it in. Everything was fine until last week. Now the Montero is back in Fail Safe and this time will not come out no matter what I do. This time however, there is sometimes a buzzing sound coming from the kick panel on the passenger's side floor where the A/T Fail Safe is located when you first start it. Sometimes nothing. Does anyone know what might be the issue this time. I want to take it in to Mitsubishi to have it tested, but the closest Mitsu dealer to me is over 50 miles away and over some pretty steep mountains. Is it fine to drive there? Do I need to have it towed? I have not driven the vehicle since it reverted back into Fail Safe, wanted to find out first what issue was. Thanks. Patrick
I have the same problem with my 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport that many others have posted about. Shifts hard from reverse to first, then shortly after shifts into 3rd (safety mode) neutral light flashes and won't shift to any other gears until it has been shut off and restarted. Here's the odd part, on rainy days, after driving on wet roads for about 10 minutes, I can shut it down and restart it and it will work perfectly until the roads and weather dries up. I have replaced 2 sensors on the transmission so far... and refused to pay the idiots at the local Mitsubishi dealership more because they wanted to "crack open the transmission to check the wiring." The wet weather thing proves that the issue is electrical in nature... but it won't pass inspection now because driving in 3rd gear all of the time is causing codes to trip saying I need a new catalytic converter. HELP PLEASE!
I had this problem. 2001 Montero LTD. With the help of this thread, I decided to add a button in the dash. The Monte has a bunch of those 1.5 inch removable panels, I took one out and drilled a 1/2 inch hole, wired in a momentary switch from Radio Shack.
I didn't want to rewire the whole thing, so I used an ohmmeter to locate the horn wire. (On the steering wheel bottom, there's a removable inspection cover. Under there are three wiring clusters. The single wire, red with a circling black stripe, is the horn wire. Disconnect it after confirming it is the right one.) Under the dash, the wire is green with a longitudinal black stripe. I connected to it, and the switch's other side goes to ground. Confirm your wiring is the same if you try this.
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi that has the key with transponder built in. The case is cracked and the key part falls out all of the time so i bought a key shell that doesn't have the transponder installed in it. Can i just take the electronics from the old key and install them into the new key shell then cut the key to match or do i need to reprogram the key chip
I have a 2000 Montero Sport 2 whl drive 3.0 automatic. I was not having any problems with it untill I had a service center change the trans filter an fluid. Now it jerks bad an the neutral light flashes. If i pull over a kill the vehicle, an re-start it will work for a few minutes. I have had trans ppl look an can not figure out the problem! I like many other people are at my wits end! If anyone can help me, I would so appreciate it!
Sports are a necessary part of life. And in all of them basic rules of sports need to be firmly followed particularly if we talk on the subject of safety. This site http://www.basicsportrules.com/ provides basic rules of very game. Which helps in playing safe games.
i have a 95 mitsubishi montero and i was driving it on the freeway to tak my kid to school and there was a loud squeal sqeek noise then there was knocking what the heck is going on !?!please help!!! :mad: :mad: :mad: :confuse:
Hi.... I have a 2001 Montero Sport Limted 4x4 for which i have changed the front differential which coasted me lot of money. Now after 3 months both the Anti lock and 4x4 light are flashing. Can anyone let me know what can be done.
Hi.... I have a 2001 Montero Sport Limted 4x4 for which i have changed the front differential which coasted me lot of money. Now after 3 months both the Anti lock and 4x4 light are flashing. Can anyone let me know what can be done.
Hi gk123, I have the same problem before and this forum helped me a lot. I want to help and give it back. It would be the freewheel solenoid valve. It is located just below the air cleaner box located in the passenger side of the engine bay. I forgot the part no. but you may try to browse the previous messages and I'm sure you will find it.
Hi, I have a 02 Montero Sport, 2 wheel drive, the vehicle runs and shifts great but I noticed when I take off on a cold start for the 1st 10 to 15 min's the 3rd shift before going to OverDrive has a bit of a Flare up, so for example it gets to about 3,000 RPM and right before going into overdrive the RPMs kinda slip to about 3400 or so and then come right back down, it only happens for just a split second or so and its still shifts smooth, theres no jerks or hard shifts it just seems like it slips or flares up for just a second on the last shift from taking off, Is this normal or is this the start of a problem? Any help would be great, Thanks..<
Hi, I have a 2001 Montero Sport 4x4, with 180K miles on it. My first suggestion is you probably have a lot of miles on the truck, let it warm up, I have started to 'baby' my baby, and she does much better, after getting some temp gage movement prior to driving. As far as the slipping transmission problem I thought I also had at one point. I had a trans flush done and I believe it fixed the problem (I drive in severe conditions 6 mo out of the year and 17-20K miles). I recently had a severe trans leak, the seals were all shot, those were just replaced about 6 months ago. Now the truck has put itself into "fail safe" mode and will turn over but there is no getting her to drive. The dealer stated it was the upper valve body and solenoids (which you can't get one piece without the other now, as the upper valve body is 'obsolete'). So it is now at a private mechanic before we go down the path of repairing, replacing anything having to do with the transmission. I had heard from another Service Manager (one who did not get our business since I live out of state now, but did when I lived close) all my questions on repairs went through him since I didn't trust my local dealership. He stated he's never had to touch an A/T on the Montero Sport in regards to major overhauling. So if I'm reading everyone correctly, the most logical place to start is replacing sensors? And this does fix the "grinding" or something is broken noise? Thoughts or suggestions?
The car has a tow rating of 5000 pounds. To tow over 3500 pounds you'll need to install a brake controller and have trailer brakes. Most places that install trailer hitches can probably help with the hitch the wiring harness and the brake controller
THANK YOU!!! I've been searching for a week on what could be an economical fix and thanks to your info I too was able to workaround the horn issue in my 2003 Montero Limited.
Very happy to get the horn back and still pass inspection without being out a lot of money!
Just purchased a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4x4, it has 136000 miles on it already. I know buying a used car you always get what you pay for and then some!! We thought it was a great family car... now when you drive around 20-50 mph she begins to shudder like she can't find the right gear than you hear this racket that sounds like when you drive over the wake up strips on the highways (we don't have those so I know it's not actually that, just sounds like it). Took it to the mechanic he said it was showing a catalytic error code. I am wondering though if this is the catalytic converter or a sensor tricking the converter into thinking it is bad.
I was washing my 02 Montero Sport AWD and i lean against the shift switching it from AWD to the neutral postion, now i cant place it in any of the postion... the vehicle drives well but i just cant get it to go into 4H or 4L or AWD it just wont go its like its disconnected or jammed. has anyone had a problem like this?
Hi i have the same problem have you figured it out yet?? i replaced the water pump belts, fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel pump, plugs, oil, air filter ect. lol cant fig it out?? 2000 montero sport 3.0 v6 130,000 miles 2wd
Definitely airbag. I found lots of used ones on ebay for about $25-35. Fixed mine after 3 years of getting up at night to disconnect the fuse. (it'd go months between issues.) Even replaced the clock spring. Definitely airbag
I had to replace the transmission control module computer, but it is serialized to another computer, so had to replace both, at about $2500 just to drive again. darn mitsubishi.
my mechanic haad a local machine shop MAKE several parts for mine because the ONLY option is to replace the entire transfer case, more than these old trucks are worth. darn mitsubishi.
I have a very loud knock that randomly appears at startup, the always goes away, sometimes in 20 seconds, or 5 minutes. Replaced all front end parts including timing belt components and water pump. The noise became less frequent after this. Could it be the timing belt shroud/housing just rattling? It is definitely more common when the weather and motor is cold, but also very random. I have driven 40,000 since this first started.
My SUV has 124,000 miles on it. The Check Engine Light came on, car very slow to accelerate & when pressing on gas pedal AND even when car is idling at red light it vibrates left to right and/or shudders like I'm driving over a bunch of speed bumps. It feels like the car will stall, but doesn't. I just had spark plugs/wires replaced, oil change, tires rotated ($500.). Over the last 2 years, I've had OS2 sensor replaced, all belts & hoses replaced, Drive belt replaced, oil pan re-sealed....spent thousands. I just picked up my car from mechanic yesterday & it drove fine for 8 miles, it worked great. When I drove it hours later-to go to work, the problem came back but not as severe, Check Engine light came on, car hesitates to accelerate, shakes when idling at red light. I don't have money to keep replacing things & want to get to the nitty gritty. Anyone heard of this or know of a "real" solution?
Car has 124,000 miles on it. It is idling rough when I am sitting at a red light, then feels like it's going to stall, but doesn't. Also when idling it starts to shake back & forth like I'm running over a bunch of speed bumps...this is while I'm not moving. At 35-40 mph the car starts to shake, and has a hard time accelerating, but does. Once I'm going 45 mph & above, the problems go away and it feels like it's running fine. I just had the car at the mechanics for this problem and they replaced spark plugs, wires, did oil change & rotated tires. The problem still exists. Over the last 2 years I've had the OS2 sensor replaced, oil seal (was leaking oil), replaced all hoses & belts, including drive belt & timing belt, fuel induction service, replaced gasket, crank seal, 2 front cam seals, a/c belt alternator & OT belt, p/s belt I've spent thousands keeping this thing running. I'm trying to avoid having the transmission replaced, since I've read on some blogs that this didn't solve the problem. I'm only getting information of what Doesn't fix the problem, and I'm looking for the "Fix" that will fix the problem. I want to start with inexpensive fixes first, since money is a problem right now. I am open to all suggestions. Thank you.
place your parking brake on turn off the fan,radio,lights etc put in neutral hold the gas peddle down for about 4 to 5 mins then put on lights radio ,ects repeat once or twice and car should learn its idle bye about 10 to 15 min, when your putting the gas peddle down only too about 1and 1%2 on the tac maybe 2 grand ,it will shut off about 3 times then hold its own after this put it in park and you should be all set after you get it too idle in neutral place on lights and flashers heater any electrical too watch tac rev up on its own too adjust for increase in power
Hi, I have same problem. It only occurs after the vehicle has sat overnight or more (cold engine). If you immediately shut off the engine after starting, and then promptly restart, does the noise go away ? Mine goes away on restart. I only have the problem when the engine is cold. - Mike
Comments
Anyone have a parts diagram? thanks
After finding this forum when experiencing this exact problem I was extremely happy! Big question though... While researching the part, I found a pre-2000 to 2000 solenoid, and a 2001-2005 solenoid.
Unfortunately the parts site, does not show actual part numbers, so I can not tell which is which. (I own a 2000) - For those that have ordered and/or replaced this part, was the number different than posted in the forum?
Thanks in advance!
What do I need to make sure the car is ready for a hitch, i.e., brake lights, etc.
Thank you all for the help, after reading all the posts I went straight to my local dealer and bought the Freewheel Solenoid Valve for $94, I am not a mechanic but I consider my self quite handy, so I decided to do the work my self, quite frankly, this is really simple, just remove the air filter and right below you'll find the valves, 2 more bolts and that's it, the only tricky part is to remove all the hoses, just make sure you remember to order so you know which one goes where when mounting the new valve.
I got some pictures of the work I did, posted them on flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/83206424@N00/sets/72157623467647243/
Bottom line, thanks to this forum I fixed the flashing 4x4 light with ABS light coming on after 10 minutes aprox. for just the cost of the part and the time invested. My advice, if you have some skills under the hood, save yourself the labor costs and do it yourself.
I didn't want to rewire the whole thing, so I used an ohmmeter to locate the horn wire. (On the steering wheel bottom, there's a removable inspection cover. Under there are three wiring clusters. The single wire, red with a circling black stripe, is the horn wire. Disconnect it after confirming it is the right one.)
Under the dash, the wire is green with a longitudinal black stripe. I connected to it, and the switch's other side goes to ground. Confirm your wiring is the same if you try this.
So I got my horn back. WooHoo!
1) Is it time to replace the Timing Belt, is this imperative???
2) When replacing the Timing Belt, is it best to also replace the
Water Pump, all the Idlers and the EXPENSIVE Hydrolic
Dampener ?
3) I am a reasonably good "shade tree" mechanic, how difficult of a
replacement is this ?
4) Any answers, directions and / or hints will be greatly
appreciated ..;)
Thanks
Barry
helps in playing safe games.
I have the same problem before and this forum helped me a lot. I want to help and give it back. It would be the freewheel solenoid valve. It is located just below the air cleaner box located in the passenger side of the engine bay. I forgot the part no. but you may try to browse the previous messages and I'm sure you will find it.
Hope this helps.
Very happy to get the horn back and still pass inspection without being out a lot of money!
I just picked up my car from mechanic yesterday & it drove fine for 8 miles, it worked great. When I drove it hours later-to go to work, the problem came back but not as severe, Check Engine light came on, car hesitates to accelerate, shakes when idling at red light. I don't have money to keep replacing things & want to get to the nitty gritty. Anyone heard of this or know of a "real" solution?
At 35-40 mph the car starts to shake, and has a hard time accelerating, but does. Once I'm going 45 mph & above, the problems go away and it feels like it's running fine.
I just had the car at the mechanics for this problem and they replaced spark plugs, wires, did oil change & rotated tires. The problem still exists.
Over the last 2 years I've had the OS2 sensor replaced, oil seal (was leaking oil), replaced all hoses & belts, including drive belt & timing belt, fuel induction service, replaced gasket, crank seal, 2 front cam seals, a/c belt alternator & OT belt, p/s belt
I've spent thousands keeping this thing running. I'm trying to avoid having the transmission replaced, since I've read on some blogs that this didn't solve the problem. I'm only getting information of what Doesn't fix the problem, and I'm looking for the "Fix" that will fix the problem. I want to start with inexpensive fixes first, since money is a problem right now. I am open to all suggestions. Thank you.
I have same problem. It only occurs after the vehicle has sat overnight or more (cold engine). If you immediately shut off the engine after starting, and then promptly restart, does the noise go away ? Mine goes away on restart. I only have the problem when the engine is cold. - Mike