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Anyone have a parts diagram? thanks
After finding this forum when experiencing this exact problem I was extremely happy! Big question though... While researching the part, I found a pre-2000 to 2000 solenoid, and a 2001-2005 solenoid.
Unfortunately the parts site, does not show actual part numbers, so I can not tell which is which. (I own a 2000) - For those that have ordered and/or replaced this part, was the number different than posted in the forum?
Thanks in advance!
What do I need to make sure the car is ready for a hitch, i.e., brake lights, etc.
Thank you all for the help, after reading all the posts I went straight to my local dealer and bought the Freewheel Solenoid Valve for $94, I am not a mechanic but I consider my self quite handy, so I decided to do the work my self, quite frankly, this is really simple, just remove the air filter and right below you'll find the valves, 2 more bolts and that's it, the only tricky part is to remove all the hoses, just make sure you remember to order so you know which one goes where when mounting the new valve.
I got some pictures of the work I did, posted them on flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/83206424@N00/sets/72157623467647243/
Bottom line, thanks to this forum I fixed the flashing 4x4 light with ABS light coming on after 10 minutes aprox. for just the cost of the part and the time invested. My advice, if you have some skills under the hood, save yourself the labor costs and do it yourself.
I didn't want to rewire the whole thing, so I used an ohmmeter to locate the horn wire. (On the steering wheel bottom, there's a removable inspection cover. Under there are three wiring clusters. The single wire, red with a circling black stripe, is the horn wire. Disconnect it after confirming it is the right one.)
Under the dash, the wire is green with a longitudinal black stripe. I connected to it, and the switch's other side goes to ground. Confirm your wiring is the same if you try this.
So I got my horn back. WooHoo!
1) Is it time to replace the Timing Belt, is this imperative???
2) When replacing the Timing Belt, is it best to also replace the
Water Pump, all the Idlers and the EXPENSIVE Hydrolic
Dampener ?
3) I am a reasonably good "shade tree" mechanic, how difficult of a
replacement is this ?
4) Any answers, directions and / or hints will be greatly
appreciated ..;)
Thanks
Barry
helps in playing safe games.
I have the same problem before and this forum helped me a lot. I want to help and give it back. It would be the freewheel solenoid valve. It is located just below the air cleaner box located in the passenger side of the engine bay. I forgot the part no. but you may try to browse the previous messages and I'm sure you will find it.
Hope this helps.
Very happy to get the horn back and still pass inspection without being out a lot of money!
I just picked up my car from mechanic yesterday & it drove fine for 8 miles, it worked great. When I drove it hours later-to go to work, the problem came back but not as severe, Check Engine light came on, car hesitates to accelerate, shakes when idling at red light. I don't have money to keep replacing things & want to get to the nitty gritty. Anyone heard of this or know of a "real" solution?
At 35-40 mph the car starts to shake, and has a hard time accelerating, but does. Once I'm going 45 mph & above, the problems go away and it feels like it's running fine.
I just had the car at the mechanics for this problem and they replaced spark plugs, wires, did oil change & rotated tires. The problem still exists.
Over the last 2 years I've had the OS2 sensor replaced, oil seal (was leaking oil), replaced all hoses & belts, including drive belt & timing belt, fuel induction service, replaced gasket, crank seal, 2 front cam seals, a/c belt alternator & OT belt, p/s belt
I've spent thousands keeping this thing running. I'm trying to avoid having the transmission replaced, since I've read on some blogs that this didn't solve the problem. I'm only getting information of what Doesn't fix the problem, and I'm looking for the "Fix" that will fix the problem. I want to start with inexpensive fixes first, since money is a problem right now. I am open to all suggestions. Thank you.
I have same problem. It only occurs after the vehicle has sat overnight or more (cold engine). If you immediately shut off the engine after starting, and then promptly restart, does the noise go away ? Mine goes away on restart. I only have the problem when the engine is cold. - Mike