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VW GTI (All styles)

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Comments

  • turbotorqueturbotorque Member Posts: 45
    wow.
  • jchagtdijchagtdi Member Posts: 55
    AND $1000 owner loyalty rebate with the 0%.
  • nixomosenixomose Member Posts: 95
    I bought one of the first mk4 gti's, as in there are two different cars called 1999 GTI VR6 and I got the later one. There was no 1.8T at the time, although I more recently bought a subaru wrx and I must say I hate turbolag, I'm much happier with my bigger vr6 though I haven't driven a 1.8t.
    the engine is a great engine so far as I can tell I've got 54K on my gti and not a hiccup of any kind.
    There are a surprising number of stupid things wrong with it, but nothing critical to performance of the car (the rear wiper doesn't work right, the gas gauge sits at empty 80% of the time then wakes up at random, things like that)
    But I must take exception to your comment that all the luxury toys are good.
    When I bought the vr6, it was all or nothing, you couldn't get a vr6 without the moon roof, electric tint mirror, heater mirrors, climatronic, rain sensing wipers and all that.
    I must say the rain sensing wipers far exceeded my expectations and I'm very happy to have this gadget.
    But hell hath no fury like the anger I exhibit when I want to get air to blow out of the climate control system. Sadly, it is not broken, it is just badly designed, you can't make it do what you want. at 76 degrees it automatically turns on recicrulate, whether you want it to or not, and if it's cold inside and you want to blow cool air, forget it, impossible. it's either "LO" or hot air.
    I can't imagine the quality control or design test people at VW that let this pathetic monstrosity of progress exist.
    Oh, and one other thing, while I'm whining... the drive by wire stuff (unless they've improved it a LOT) has to go. give me a cable to the intake any day.
    Try stepping on the gas and brake at the same time and watch what happens. But overall, it's still a VW and lots of fun to drive. kicks my WRX's [non-permissible content removed] in that regard, though it's nowhere near as fast.
  • teresitateresita Member Posts: 20
    I'm planning to drive from California to Florida in September. I have a 2002 GTI, 1.8 turbo, stick shift.
      Besides getting it serviced and oil change, etc.
     anything else I should do during the drive, besides put in gas?

      Anyone every drive cross country on their GTI?
     will it be hard on the car?
     Please advise.
  • teresitateresita Member Posts: 20
    doesn't anybody read these posts?
     or am in in the wrong place?
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    People read, sometimes it just takes a bit longer for people to answer in certain areas than others.
  • conallconall Member Posts: 91
    Don't know if this is of much help, but I put about 1600 miles driving around in the Southwest on my '92 16V when it was new. After that I drove over 70 miles to work and back for 2 years - both without problems.
  • gmkrphgmkrph Member Posts: 12
    Alas , I have to sell my 2000 GTI. And I am faced with the minor problem of it's worth. Because of the fact of it's Ultra Low Mileage and Condition.
    2000 GTI GLX VR6 , Tropic Orange , Black Leather,
    9000 Miles ! Showroom Condition - MINT - Impeccable / How much of a premium can I add to this car for it's mileage/condition ??
    Inside/Outside/Under the hood / it looks like it just came off the showroom/ What is it worth ?
    Thank You , George in Bristol,Connecticut
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Have you used the TMV (True Market Value) tool to calculate the private party selling price of your car? Go here Used Car Appraiser It will at least give you a number to start with.
  • nixomosenixomose Member Posts: 95
    I look my 99 vr6 to canada and back in 3 days. 1100 miles total. It's not cali to florida, but it was a longish drive. I changed the oil and put gas in it. It's a VW, what else does it need?
    Maybe make sure when in fla that bugs haven't consumed the air filter and radiator. can't really think of anything else.
  • conallconall Member Posts: 91
    Has anyone with a 2000 or newer GTI, with around 50 thousand miles, ever had any idling or stalling problems? Hopefully this problem doesn't exist for the newer models, though there definitely were troubles of this kind with the A2's from '85 to '92.
  • nixomosenixomose Member Posts: 95
    I finally got around to putting new shocks and struts on my vr6 gti. So much better than stock, I can't say enough nice things about it except how difficult it is to do with normal tools.

    Alas after some rental equipment I got it done, and it was well well worth it.

    I got these adjustable ones, so I set it to 'unbearable' and it's great.
  • hebreezehebreeze Member Posts: 1
    Hello:

     

    What are you selling your GTI for? Does it have heated seats?

     

    I'm in CT as well.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    no buying or selling in the boards.

     

    Thanks!
  • hugh1hugh1 Member Posts: 8
    after a 5yr love-hate relationship with my Jetta 99vr6, (am radio,maf,other warning light, windows, sun roof problems)I dumped it at below wholesale and took a bath. Now, I am salivating for a GTI VR6. There are still some 04s around at around 15% off window. Question: has VW cleaned up it's act or can I look forward to the same problems with an '04?
  • gejogejo Member Posts: 1
    Don't do it! find another car.

     

    We have been looking and haven't found one that drives like it(2001 GTI 1.8 T) but the one that came closest was the Saab 92 Aero (227 HP T). The BMW 1 Series is coming next year to the US, so maybe that one is one to consider. My brother has one and he likes it, however, BMW reliability is not good for 5 and 7 series, so who knows about the 1.

     

    We have been talking to German people that know the 2006 GOLF models and they say it is as bad or even worse now (they have them for a while in Europe). VW has reduced costs by 30% (price not reduced though) and the quality is just getting worse.

     

    We were in love with our GTI but the problems were too many and finally we said good bye.

     

    FIND ANOTHER CAR. They are just getting worse.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    If that is true about the new Golf's reliability not being any better than the current crop of cars, that will be very disappointing and not a good thing for VWoA.
  • turbolag_daveturbolag_dave Member Posts: 1
    i just got a 2000 GTI turbo i love, but i notice the car gets VERY hot underneath after about 30 minutes of driving, then only hot air comes thru the vents -- have to turn on the AC to keep from cooking! anyone have this same symptom? solution? thanks!
  • conallconall Member Posts: 91
    I have an old Audi turbo (which I also love) with that same problem. I'm lucky to have the tilt-back roof for more ventilation.
  • crazydanocrazydano Member Posts: 1
    hey everyone. my '97 GTi is making a loud clunking noise in the front only when i am turning into/backing out of a parking spot...haven't noticed any other noises while driving. took it to the VW dealership, they replaced the front struts and components, then the lower control arm brackets, then both the CV axles. $3500 and a few weeks later i get the car back, and when i get home and park it i hear the same noise. i called VW back and they said they didn't know what could still be making the noise, and that there was nothing else they could do about it.

     

    well i'm a little upset about the whole situation, to say the least. i took my car in to get a certain problem fixed, and i ended up with $3500 of extra repairs. so i guess i have a 2 part question:

    (a) any idea what could be causing the problem??

    and

    (b) is there anything i can do about the dealership screwing me over??

     

    any help will greatly appreciated.

     

    Dano
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    My guess would be loose or hardened(shrunk) sway bar bushings or loose/broken sway bar endlinks, given all that has been replaced thus far. You need to get the car hoisted to check for this, though.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Did the dealer provide you with an estimate for the repairs and did he specify why the CV axles and control arm brackets (do you mean the contorl arm bushings?) needed to be replaced? If he did and you signed off on the repair, I'm afraid there is nothing you can do. If he didn't, you can threaten him with a lawyer for doing repairs you didn't ask for and they will probably freak and either refund you some money to calm you down or find the true problem and fix it for free. You could potentially go for an entire refund if you wanted to take it as far as court. I personally would be raising hell over them doing all these repairs and then it not fix the problem you took it in for. I think at least a partial refund is called for, unless you willingly signed off on all repairs and they have legit reasons for replacing what they did. Seems to me they were just guessing at what could be wrong and replacing parts at random, rather then actually looking for the problem, and laughing all the way to the bank with lots of your money in hand. Let this be a lesson to you that when repairs get this expensive, you need to get a second opinion and you should also never use a dealer for these kind of out of warranty repairs as they are always extremely expensive.

     

    With the age of your car and knowing that VW shocks are notorious for not lasting long, I would say it was reasonable for the dealer to assume changing the struts would fix the problem (you probably needed them anyway and I'm sure the car's handling feels a bit tighter). But why they replaced both CV axles and messed with the control arms is beyond me. CV axles can last a long time as long as the rubber boots are intact. I find it hard to believe all 4 boots were ripped open, thus requiring both axles to be replaced. I have an 84 GTI with over 200k miles and still have the original left CV axle, not to mention all the original bushings. And I don't hear any clunking (knock on wood).

     

    I'm not totally clear on when your clunking occurs. Can it be heard only when you park? Does it occur anytime you park or only when entering a raised or uneven surface? Do you ever hear it during u-turns or over bumps? A common source of clunking is the strut bearing. This should have been replaced when they did the struts. If they didn't, then this could be your problem, but they tend to clunk over bumps and turns. Other possibilities are the sway bar bushings, sway bar links, control arm bushings, and ball joints. However, these would all cause a loose feeling in the handling and the noise should be heard over bumps and while making turns. Without hearing the noise and seeing what situations make it occur, its hard to say for sure, but I will mention one problem that is often overlooked. It could simply be a loose brake pad. If you are missing the clips that hold the brake pads securely in place or they are installed wrong, the pad will be able to move slightly back and forth. It will be heard as a loud clunk as you back up and then you will hear another one after you stop and move forward. Usually the noise is only heard when moving in and out of parking spots. Both my 84 GTI and 2003 Suzuki Aerio had this problem. In my GTI's case, it was a clip missing, and then later on, the calipers were worn out.

     

    At any rate, good luck. I hope this info is useful for you. Let us know if you find out the real problem and whether you get anywhere with getting a refund.
  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    I expect to buy a hatch in the next year to replace a 92 Civic Si. Looking for something that will be comfortable, sporty (doesn't need to be pocket rocket)& get good gas mileage.

     

    We have a 04 Audi A4 1.8T CVT that we are very happy with it; especially with the amazing 27-29 mgp in mixed driving & 34-37 mpg on the highway (no lead foots in family).

     

    With that experience, the 02-04 GTi is on my hatch short list. What kind of mileage are you 1.8T GTi owners getting (please include your driving style and whether you have AT or 5 spd manual)? Thanks!
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    I have a '00 Golf GLS 4-dr, 1.8T, 5-spd. I drive fairly aggressively in mostly city driving. I've increased the boost slightly as well and avg. 24 MPG in the winter, 25 MPG with summer driving.
  • hugh1hugh1 Member Posts: 8
    dear gejo:

    Were your problems exclusive to the 1.8T or did you hear of them in VR6s too? Does Brazil vs Mexico assembly matter? Was told by VW sls mgr that Jetta VR6 and GTI VR6 are two different animals...anyone care to comment? Drove a Honda Civic SI but it just doesn't cut it...132ftlb torque @5k vs almost 200 @ 3200 is the reason why, plus a 4cyl vs 6cyl...apples & oranges. Someone tell me some GTI VR6 success stories please !!!
  • lori3lori3 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I have an '85 GTI that started to buck or jump like the engine was not getting power in 1st and 2nd gears. This problem started gradually until it has got so severe I can not drive the car now. The engine runs great in neutral and reverse. Has anyone ran across this problem before or have any suggestions as to what it might be?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    How many miles are on your car? When was the last time the clutch was replaced?
  • jcu1886jcu1886 Member Posts: 39
    I have a 2003 GTI 5-speed. Fairly aggressive driving, all city, yields me 20 mpg. On trips, however, 34-35 is not usual even at speeds of 70-75 most of the time (interstates).

    Cleveland, OH
  • timdemiotimdemio Member Posts: 8
    I recently acquired a GTI VR6 and noticed that shifting the GTI has a different feel from shifting the Passat V6 5-speed. The Passat 5-gear shift is very smooth, but shifting the 6-gear GTI feels like loading a bolt action rifle. Could anyone that has experience with both cars share his/her opinion? Thank you.
  • lori3lori3 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    The odometer says 85,000 which is what it said when I bought car used in 1994 and the first 4yrs I drove approx 100 frwy miles a day. Also a couple CA. to AZ. trips. Two yrs ago on trip to AZ the at 85mph the car jumped out of 5th gear the rpms reved no power shifted to 4th gear fine shift back to 5th did it again. Lost 5th and had the clutch repaired and 5th gear back. When the car starts to stall it makes a low gutter growl as it dies, seems like it's getting flood or no gas. Not sure what. The car has sat now for a 1yr and I started it the other day no problems give it gas in neutral engine sounds strong but can't drive it. help
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I would have them check the fuel distributor for a little fuel filter that the factory installed to catch any particles in the fuel line during the car's manufacturing process. If the filter is there, it should be removed because it's no longer needed after the first 3000 miles.

    I had the same thing happen to me when I had my 1987 GTI. All of a sudden the car started to stall and lose power.

    If that doesn't solve the problem, the other possibility is the transfer pump inside the fuel tank. 1985-1987 VWs with the CIS Fuel Injection came with two fuel pumps - an internal (transfer) pump (attached to the fuel level sending unit) which draws the fuel from the gas tank and sends it to the main (high-pressure) pump located under the driver's side rear wheel well.

    NOTE: The main pump should last at least 250,000 miles or more - so that should rule out the main pump as the cause - unless you're hearing strange groaning sounds from the rear wheel well.
  • lori3lori3 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    What a surprise, thanks for responding and the info.

    I am pretty sure the car may have 200,000 miles on it if not more and yes I do hear noises coming from the rear. When I get down to a 1/4 tank of gas It gets louder and I have to get gas. I ran out of gas one day on the frwy, the gauge was between a 1/4 & a 1/8 so after that I'd get gas at the quarter mark.

    After you took the fuel distributor filter out your car ran good? No problems?

    I hope to get my car back on the road soon, and will take your advice and check these things out. It may take a little time but I'll keep you posted with the out come..... Thanks again for your help.

    Just wanted to let everyone know that I love my GTI, it's been a great car. This is the first time I've ever had any real problems with it. We call her Blacky, give her appreciation rub now and then and she's been good to me.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    The problems went away after the fuel distributor filter was removed.

    At 200,000 miles and a noise coming from the rear, the culprit is more than likely the transfer pump (inside the tank attached to the fuel tank sender unit). When that goes bad, the main fuel pump works much harder and produces a groaning sound. So I would get the transfer pump replaced.
  • chchoichchoi Member Posts: 40
    In manual, it does not require to use synthetic oil. I bring my car to dealer for service and they use 5w-30. They did not say synthetic is require, but they say all 2005 are now require. So why 2001 is not required, it is same engine? Should I switch to synthetic? What benefit do I have for using synthetic?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    If you use the recommended VW 502.00 spec synthetic oil - you have a much better chance with VW honoring the engine warranty for sludge in case something does go wrong. If you continue to use 5W30, you are playing Russian Roulette.

    Because of the heat turbocharged engines produce, synthetic oil reduces the chance of sludge forming in your engine (excessive sludge will result in oil starvation and engine failure) as opposed to conventional dino oils.
  • syndrome666syndrome666 Member Posts: 2
    Ok, now most of us here know that European cars are usually more durable than asian or american. Ever since I read all these reviews, I kept jumping from one vehicle to another, since there's always something wrong with almost any car you own, even if you got it brand new. So GTI was and probably still is on top of my list after doing intensive research on cars reading forums on numerous websites and visiting car make's websites, so far I've cancelled out hyundai tiburon 6speed manual due to major complaints about its clutch burning out nearly after 12,000 miles which is when the clutch warranty ends, and plus the car is way too slow compared to VW GTI, Toyota Celica GTS has too little torque and not enough room in rear seats/trunk a little slow for a sports car too. Next up was acura rsx type s, which one of my friend's owns, he even hooked a custom exhuase and a carbon fiber hood, and i must admit it's a great little car made by honda, but doesn't have enought torque (only 143lb ft.) I even recall him going up this steep hill under a 40 or 45 degree angle and the car was barely pulling due to low torque, but the car in front (audi a4 as i recall it) climbed the hill in no time. Civics are out of the question, they just plainly suck, in all aspects that is (torque, hp, safety, acceleration) but I gotta give them credit for reliability, I mean the european Si type R is pretty cool but it never came out in the states, and plus it's like the bigger twin of the RSX Type S, So RSX would decline in sales if that would happen.
    Anyway back to my topic...
    Basically what's happening is I'm getting a new car this week, and it has to be preferably no more then $25K with most, if any, preferable options included. After reading most of these forums on the cars I listed above, I came down to the conclusion that the VW GTI is the best bet for the price, I mean small electrical problems, which many claim to have had on their VWs, I can take care of.
    What would be the better car in terms of fun, acceleration, and reliability, the 1.8T or the VR6? I'm a big fan of manual tranny, so I had my eye on the VR6 particularly for its extra shifting gear, and the fact that most 6 speed models accelerate quicker then 5 speed. Unfortunately when I test drove the GTI, they only had a 1.8T, so I never got to try out the 6 speed model. Any suggestions?
    By the way VW, which is a budget german car, has the smoothest manual gear shifter compared to any japanese or american car, the second I sat in the 1.8T I was amazed at how big on the inside a tiny car like that can be, even the rear seats had a good amount of legroom to sit comfortably, I mean this thing actually feels luxurious from the moment you get in, and it drives smooth, compared to the hollow bodied japanies cars which rev at 5-8 thousand rpms to get out the max power, GTI accelerate so fast, I swear this thing could rip most compact cars, even a lot of sedans and coups. But then again, I never tried out the VR6 so I shouldn't be talking here. Anyway any GTI owners out there, please leave feedback on what you think of your vehicles, and which would you say is more preferable particularly for speed.
  • wolfhousewolfhouse Member Posts: 6
    If you are looking at the VW for reliability, you are misguided, strongly so. I would definitely wait for the next generation (1Q 06), which might be more reliable, will have a much stronger 2.0T engine (said to be comparable to the present VR6). Don't fool yourself, the Mark IV Golf/Jetta/GTI (the present generation) have destroyed VW's image of a somewhat reliable car company.
    If you wanna have a feeling of how the GTI V will ride, you can look at the new Jetta being sold right now. If you want a feeling for the new engine, the Audi A3 has it : you might want to consider that car too.
  • wetwilliewetwillie Member Posts: 129
    I have owned both: an '02 200hp 24V 6sp GTI. I now own an '00 4dr. Golf 1.8T 5-sp. This one has increased boost and improved suspenders (bilstein).

    The VR6 is the true jewel in this comparison: beautiful sound, glass smooth, torque on tap anywhere from idle to redline. But the VR6 is nose-heavy so turn-in isn't as instinctive as it is in the lighter 1.8T. The turbo has some lag (ALL turbos do) but is fun to drive with a 5sp. I would say the VR6 is more fun straight line, but the 1.8T is more fun when you throw curves into the mix.

    The reliabilty issues have been dealt with and the common problems (coils, window regs, O2 sensors) are non-existant in the latest versions. The '04 version of the Mark IV will likely be much more reliable than the Mark V's.

    The Audi A3 has me anticipating an even higher evolution of the hatch. Can't wait 'til they arrive on our shores so I can test drive one! :P
  • syndrome666syndrome666 Member Posts: 2
    Thanx for your feedbacks, as for the new Mark V GTIs, they just don't look like a classic european car anymore, they tend to pull the modern [non-permissible content removed] or ford focus look, and no V6 available? I've seen the new Jetta as well, and find it really ugly, VW is trying to go with the flow in terms of power and design with the new generations of their compact cars, I find the Mark IV the most attractive GTI ever built, I mean yeah it is known for some minor problems, but what cars don't? It's not like the tranny fails every 10K miles, or the engine overheats, electronic problems, such as lights, windows, wipers, radio, are somewhat common on many cars, but I can always get that fixed without having it taken to a repair shop.
    I had my eye on the A3 Audi, but I don't know if it'll fit into my budget since it's expected starting pricce range is 25K and with add ons and optional features it'll come out to around 27-30K probably, I mean 25K is pretty much my limit, I can't afford to waste so much since I only work 2 days a week, and have tons of school work in between mon and thurs, so not much time to earn enough $ to afford something a bit of a higher class. The past 2 days I almost sold out to a couple of Nissan dealers for an Altima SE-R, but I checked it out, and it's not my type of car, even though it's pretty powerful and supposedly faster then the GTI VW, I find it too hollow on the inside, too much empty space, where the GTI is cozy and luxurious looking, and has a really dark atmosphere inside, I'm also hearing from some of its (altima SE-R) consumers that it's having clutch problems already. The freakin thing just came out last fall. Always the most expensive parts on those asian cars, it's as if they're made to break. I feel happy I never owned one now. My first car was an '87 900S SAAB sedan, and it was a pretty reliable car, never had a problem with the engine, most of the interior was funcional except for the heated seats and the odometer which was stuck at 169,613 miles, but probably had around 200K on it by the time I broke the axle (can't resist burn-outs, that car was fun to do that on, but the weight of the body killed the axles). Wasn't worth fixing compared to the price I got the car for, and the first and previouse owner never bothered changing the rotors, so I had that problem on both sets of wheels (that was a disaster), got rid of it after towing it to my house.

    Posted by wetwillie:
    "The VR6 is the true jewel in this comparison: beautiful sound, glass smooth, torque on tap anywhere from idle to redline. But the VR6 is nose-heavy so turn-in isn't as instinctive as it is in the lighter 1.8T. The turbo has some lag (ALL turbos do) but is fun to drive with a 5sp. I would say the VR6 is more fun straight line, but the 1.8T is more fun when you throw curves into the mix."

    But can't you just modify the front suspensions putting stiffer ones?

    thanx for your suggestions, I think I'll go with the Mark IV VR6, and oh yeah one more question. Does it matter where they're made? cos the 04 were made in Germany, and the 05 are made in Brazil.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Every VW that I've owned was more reliable than 90% of the cars on the road today.

    Case in point:

    1975 VW Scirocco - 250,000 miles
    1987 VW Golf GT - 624,000 miles
    1997 VW Jetta Trek (still own) - 135K miles
    2003 VW Jetta Wolfsburg Edition - 47K miles.

    My secret? I have REGULAR maintenance done on them, either by myself or my mechanic. Coming from an aircraft maintenance background (in the US Air Force),
    I learned the importance of proper maintenance which I applied to every vehicle and power equipment I've owned since.

    VW's reliabilty ratings (on only a handful of items - whether it's the coil-related issue, oil burning (bad rings), etc), are a result of bad suppliers (65%), self-inflicted manufacturing issues (i.e. falling window regulators) (15%), and poor/inattentive drivers who do not properly maintain their vehicles (20%).

    Most people with their busy lifestyles nowadays usually don't take the time to make sure their vehicles are in good operating condition - with the worst culprits being those who lease their cars (which is why I make sure I buy my cars brand new - so I know the history of how they are driven) - these are the drivers who are most likely to neglect maintaining their vehicle (just jump in, turn the key, and drive), and the first to blame the manufacturer when something goes wrong. A recalled item due to a manufacturer's defect is one thing, but neglect is another thing entirely.

    For example, the sludge issue on VW's 1.8T engine was completely avoidable, even before the TSBs were issued requiring synthetic oil (which, IMHO, should have been the standard oil used in ANY turbocharged engine - If VW used it for the TDI's (diesels), they should have used it for all of their turbocharged engines right from the get-go).
    The issue of sludging in turbocharged engines has been around for a long time (case in point, the Chrysler 2.2 Liter 4-cylinder turbocharged engines of the 1980's were notorious for turbocharger failures due to oil sludging and coking in the critical turbocharger bearing area - resulting in excessive wear and their early demise).

    The fact of the matter is - the majority of people do not know how to operate a turbocharged vehicle - Here's a couple of guidelines to back up my argument:

    1) Before shutting off the engine after a high-speed drive, the engine should idle for about two minutes to allow the oil temperature to stabilize and cool down the turbo's bearing. If I had $10 for every person that didn't do this (about 90% of the turbo-driving public), I would be on the Forbes richest billionaires list.

    2) Do not exceed the manufacturer's guidelines for oil changes - if they recommend changing the oil at 5000 mile intervals, get it changed at or before 5000 miles, not 100, 200, or 1000 miles over the interval. Once again, If I had $10...(see item #1).

    As for the "street-car racing" set, these individuals seem to be good at installing lowered suspensions, loud exhausts, fancy engine mods, wings, spoilers, etc., but jugding by the amount of "slammed" vehicles on the roads these days, they don't seem to be good at performing basic automotive maintenance. As I cruise by these stranded vehicles driving one of my "unreliable" VW's, I shake my head and say to myself "That car may have broken down, but at least it looks cool..." But I digress....

    Bottom line - with any vehicle, you get out of it what you put into it. If people take the time to have the proper maintenance performed on their vehicles on a regular basis, more often than not (save for factory recalls), the vehicle will be reliable.

    And that logic applies whether you're driving VW's, Mazdas, Fords, Chevy's, Hondas, Toyotas, Lawn Tractors, etc....
  • djadadjada Member Posts: 2
    Hello - I am new to forums but will try my best to follow protocols....
    I too drove both the VR 6 and the 1.8T . Found the 1.8 to be a better fit for me and I am completely taken with the driving experience I've had with it. It goes in for oil changes every 3000 miles and is carefully maintained. I am now faced with a dilemna. I currently live in California and will be moving to the East mid-summer. I very much want to take my car, but am getting conflicting advice about how it might fare in the winter. I contend it will be just fine, but certain people here think I'm asking for trouble based upon 17" alloys and sports suspension. My thinking is with appropriate tires/wheels for winter I'll be in good shape. As for other needs for "winterizing" my car, I suspect those would be standard in a cold climate. I'll probably be in either New York or Connecticut. Can/will anyone guide me? I have this habit of becoming very attached to my cars, and don't want to give it up unecessarily. Thank you...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Your car will be fine in the East Coast winters - there are plenty of cars running around here with 17"alloys and sports suspension. The only thing I would seriously consider is either find higher profile tires for the 17" alloys or buy a set of 15" wheels/tires to swap out the 17s during the winter months, and put the 17s back on when the weather gets better.

    One word of caution - you must be extra alert to the road conditions in the East - because a good sized pothole can wreck a 17" rim in nothing flat if you hit it too fast. I had to replace a 16" BBS rim on my 2003 Wolfsburg 1.8T Jetta for that reason...
  • djadadjada Member Posts: 2
    Many thanks, I may not have to face separation anxiety afterall..
  • chetumchetum Member Posts: 1
    i have a problem with the driver seat but they are not the original ones. the seat rocks back and fourth i thought that it would be a lose bolt but it was not the hump that holds the front of the seat is broken cuz it wroughted. what can i do to fix it need help soon
  • lockdownlockdown Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I agreed with what you said. Could you give some more information in detail about how you maintain your car? Got a new GTI. Love it. Just want to keep it in good shape. Hope you can provide some advice besides oil change.
    Thanks in advance.
  • jbyrdjbyrd Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking to upgrade the suspension on my 2001 GTI VR6. So far I'm looking at the Eibach Pro-kit springs with KYB AGX adjustable shocks. Anyone have any feedback on either?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    Here goes...

    Exterior - While parked at home, if you have a garage - keep it in there. If not, buy a Wolf Car Cover - it's a worthwhile investment.
    If you live in an area where the roads are heavily salted during the winter, wash the car at the first opportunity (I would opt for the car washes that are heated, and have an undercarriage wash). This is not so much for the body (VW rustproofing is excellent) as it is for preserving your car's finish.

    Interior - Vacuum every once in a while and use some sort of (Armor All-type) protectant on the dash, door, and center console (do not use on the steering wheel or foot pedals).

    Engine - Oil change every 4000-5000 miles (depending on your driving conditions - if your daily drive is mostly highway, go with the 5000 mile interval; if your commute involves a lot of stop-and-go driving, go with the 4000 mile interval) with VW 502.00 spec (read: synthetic) motor oil. Use premium unleaded fuel ONLY. I usually go for the Amoco (BP) ultimate, Sunoco Ultra, or Shell premium at every 4th filling to keep the fuel system clean - otherwise I use premium (minimum 91 octane) at some of the local gas stations in my area.

    Driving habits - A good rule of thumb when driving a turbocharged automobile - Before shutting the engine off immediately after driving at highway speeds is to let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. This is done to allow the engine oil temperature to stabilize and properly cool down the turbocharger bearings while the turbo is winding down. Of course if your driving destination is a couple of minutes from the highway and you drive at slower speeds (25-35 mph) approaching the destination, that will also allow the engine oil temperature to stabilize.

    Economy - The 1.8T engine will give you decent fuel economy (upper 20s to 30 mpg) as long as you drive a steady pace. Once you put your foot into it and use the turbo heavily, your mileage will drop to the very low 20's very quickly.
  • waiwai Member Posts: 325
    I recently purchased a VR6 Jetta 6 speed, I believe has the same txn and 200hp engine as yours. I noticed when I upshift every gear, it has the same jerky action as mentioned by you. (This is somewhat different from my 97 Civic EX. I need to pedal the gas slightly just before releasing the clutch to have this jerky action disappears). Do you have the same experience?
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    BTW - What's the mileage on your GTI?
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