Vadp, Russian Car. Soviet Military used the 426 (I think) it was in East Germany as a staff car. Similiar to Lada wagon. I don't have a clue as to the Zaporozetch. My best guess would be a tractor by looking at the name, but you guys said it was a car. Pat
Trabant: They have a Trabant Club in Berlin now. You can only get the gas in the old East Sector. Would like to go back over and see what its like without the wall. Without the wall I could probably get lost. Couldn't get lost before because no matter which way you went you would run into the wall.
pcleveland2, Do you mean gas with oil mixed in it? Or a particular grade of gas?
"Couldn't get lost before because no matter which way you went you would run into the wall." I've never seen the wall in reality. As I understand it was separating Berlin on East and West sectors, and wasn't encircling the West sector as a region. Am I right? Sorry for the off topic comments.
This is the list of parts on order that are suppose to resolve the rattle in the engine compartment at idle. My other problems are the tractor like sound and I find the idle much louder in general. They feel the problem is the clutch:
Vadp, Thanks for the info. I guess I'll keep on nagging my dealer for a production date. Its been four weeks already and only now have I received a VIN. Who knows possibly in another four weeks I'll get a production date.
From the information my salesman has given me, if the dealer gave you a VIN number, then they also can also give you a production date (but not a delivery date).
Great News! My 2001 is on a rail car and due in to Cleveland the week of October 1st
Drove in Trabants many times (as a passenger). Their good thing was you felt like you were doing 90 while you were driving 35. Great rush! Now with our Focus we drive 90 and feel like it's still 55... No point in complaining about a rattle in the engine with a Trabant!
B.t.w. the wall went all around West Berlin. It's purpose (according to the government) was *not* to keep people from fleeing East Germany, rather it was to keep spies and other undesired westerners from entering East Germany. All a matter of perspective. I'd never been in West Berlin until the wall came down, but had friends in East that I visited many times (I'd have needed another visum to visit the western part, too much hassle).
Chicagodriver: Just took delivery of my ZX3 last week. It was ordered on May 26th, built on August 14th, and the dealer received around August 28th (I was on holiday at the time so it took another two weeks before I got the car). So, the grand total was about 14 weeks from order to dealer. B.t.w. that dealer initially told me 6-8 weeks (as do most of them), I knew better even at that time and had them put it in writing where they ammended it to 8-12 weeks. They knew better too.
Back in the 60's a was given an old shortwave radio that had been in my aunt's basement for years. I cleaned it up, hooked up a long wire, and soon was listening to Radio Moscow for the first time. The first "news" story I heard was about a family from West Berlin (not a typo) fleeing over the wall to the East. The story went on about how valiant the refugees were, dodging American bullets and all. It was a hoot!
The Soviet propaganda machine was blooming during those times. In seventies every soviet tv news reporter stationed in NYC was feeding countless snapshots of the homeless living in the cardboard shelters near dumpsters. Their commentaries always included lines about unfairness of the capitalistic society towards an average working person which could barely survive on its own. Doesn't it sound familiar? Because today you, americans, hear it on TV every day in the Al Gore propaganda speeches. I just hate commies.
11500 miles... many mods.... our zx3 is fantastic! http://www.expage.com/projectzx3 (thats my home page) hello to all my old friends! notice the deer on my home page! hehe ....
i cant tell you enough how much i appreciate your insight and value your experiences that you relate here regarding the evils of communism. unfortunately,there are many that take our freedoms for granted.im glad your here to remind us what it was like and the way it still is.you are right-on. if this is off topic, so be it. a wake-up call is always welcome. thanks man!
I took delivery of my zx3 tonight! Very cool. I'll be able to put some miles on it tonight, it only has 29 on it now (9 when I got it). I ordered it in the middle of June, and I believe it was built either the last week of Aug., or first week of Sept. I paid 15108 out the door (tax, title...)with the power group, premium group, abs, and side air bags. Tax is 6% in Michigan, bummer. talk to ya later...
Hi folks, just wondering why I see some of you changing oil at 3,000 or 4,000 miles when the standard rate for this car (and almost every new car) is 5,000 miles now? Just being overly cautious? Also, what is this "overfilling" problem some of you seem to have with oil changes? Exactly what do I need to tell people to avoid this?
One more note: you might want to add "rear hatch dinged by roof rack" to the list of flaws. This is a Kona-only problem but all Konas seem to have it.
Got off the train lastnight to find my baby had gotten dented during the day. How this happen I have no idea. The dent is on the hood near where the indents are...do you know where I mean? This totally bites! I feel so upset! Noone understands how much I love this car. I've had minor problems too, but I'm still in love. I'm having the 2nd oil change done tomorrow... booo hooo hoooo
In my opinion, changing oil every 3K is not only overly cautious, but environmentally irresponsible. I understand the first oil change being early because the break-in period, but after that, 5,000 miles is completely safe with today's oil. Changing oil more frequently creates tons of used oil which is either recycled (hopefully) or dumped. I think the 3,000 mi. oil change is a Jiffy-Lube creation to increase their profit margin. I've had many cars (most w/ hi mileage) and I've never had to make an internal-engine or oil related repair.
And I was wondering whether or not anyone out there has had any problems with their car? Any problem even if it is a small thing. I really want to know if I'm going get a good car. Please anyone tell me about your experiences.
Hi! I'd suggest that you go back thru many of the sections of discussion here to get a full view. In this particular section, not too many posts back, there is a list of common or sporadic problems people have had. I'd say the biggest problem of all has been the service and time it takes to identify the source of a problem and FIX IT, particularly after an accident.
Personally, I've had my ZX3 for 9,000+ miles, about 5 months. It has been absolutely great and perfect and I haven't had a single problem. Based on my experience, I would recommend the ZX3.
Silver_Bullet - Did you upgrade your front brake pads, and if so which brand? Have you also replaced the stock brake hoses with steel braided lines, and if so where did you get them. Thanks and Thumbs Up!
Here in Lala Land we have a wall that surrounds the whole country. But we at least are brave enough to admit it is to keep everyone inside. We don't like people leaving.
I was speaking with my mechanic brother-in-law and he says that since my ZX3 doesn't have ABS, switching to rear disc's shouldn't be super hard. Seeing as how the the JacksonRacing ZX3 has rear disc's from Baer, I am starting to that is would be a worth while upgrage. With the added bonus of looking better with my thin spoked wheels.
Does anyone else have info on a rear disc upgrade for our cars??
I switched to EBC "Green Stuff" Kevlar pads - great pedal feel, quiet, and virtually dustfree. On a street car, I've never seen the point of SS brake lines - except for the sex appeal. I'm not convinced you can actually measure the difference with new factory brake lines on a car.
Jimmy- the factory CD ROM shows some of the parts you'll need to convert... and it isn't trivial. Keep in mind you'll need different handbrake cables, and possibly a different master cylinder and brake proportioning valve in addition to the obvious hub/bearing/rotor/caliper parts at the wheels. Don't automatically assume rear discs are better than drums - look at the Civic Si.
experiencing greater static discharge while exiting vehicle. this evening very large visible spark generated off door.,could also feel it run up arm.by far the largest i ever encountered. the weather is drier but relative humidity at about 77%.very strange.i know this has been discussed previously.do not like.
I too am experiencing a lot of static when exiting car and touching door to close it, I thought rubber heeled shoes would help, not so. Would spraying seats with static guard help? I remember reading in these posts something about this a long time ago. What do others do about this? I have a metal plate in my arm which makes this hurt a lot! When we got a new Walmart in this area they use a weird polish on the floor in the grocery department which created quite a shocking situation. You could hear people getting shockied as they opened refridgeration doors in the freezer section. It was even in the paper. I and I know others who had to stop shopping there until the problem was fixed because it hurt so bad. Once they stripped the old wax and started using another brand the problem went away.
ND, yes, I soon realized that the hatch won't open unless both doors are unlocked but, the seat belt warning bell sometimes disarms when you get out of the car with the engine still running and sometimes does not. Just a little thing of no concern.
First, I'm glad I found this site...should be fun. In July, I bought a ZX3...Malibu Blue, with automatic trans. and A/C, after looking for a new car for about 2 years. I've never loved ANYthing in my life (well ok...my cat, and Jeanette, in high school, decades ago...don't ask) more than my little Focus!!! It's just the PERFECT car, in my opinion...fast, sporty, roomy, drives and feels like a big car, and very affordable...I got it (loaded) for $13,750, from Metro Ford, in North Hollywood, CA. I don't know how many people have stopped me at stop lights and in parking lots, to say, "Hey, where'd ya' get that?...do ya' like it?...how much?...that's really cool...great color!" I've already driven it up to San Francisco and back, just me and a box full 'a CD's...and it was great!!...ticked off lots 'a BMW's...passing 'em left 'n right!! You can cruise along at 75-80, without knowing it (oops). I know it's targeted for a...let's say, "younger" market...like 20's, 30's...I'm 49, and what the heck...I LOVE IT!!!! THANKS, Ford!!!!!!
My gosh, some of these "dealers". Wonder who at the dealer says there is no fresh air vent. Salesman or Service Mgr. Sounds so typical though. If there is no fresh air vent the foci would be fogged up all the time and you would have to carry a special towel to wipe off the windshield and windows.
If your getting hot air out of vent and you can't get cool air, then something is wrong. Take the guy for a ride and ask him to compare outside air to the vent air.
May have to go back to the rattlesnake thing if they don't get it.
well, im finally getting settled in florida... got my job squared away... unfortunately, i dont get a check for a month... im gona have to cal up FMC and see if i can get my next payment deferred for a couple weeks. Otherwise, the Z is running well.. sending unit isnt acting up anymore, and i didnt feel the need to replace it since ive heard that the replaced ones do the same as the factory ones. my engine rattle seems to be getting louder the more miles i put on my Z... mostly while idling or in reverse, but im not gona take it into the shop to get it checked out until i have heard of a sucessful repair for this issue. So, all in all my Z is treating me very well... ive had it for just under a month, has around 3500 miles on it, and asides from the occasional gas gague quirkiness, and the replaced MAF(mass air flow sensor replaced 1 week after delivery) My Z is great, I love the car and hope for many more "trouble-free" miles. i put trouble free in quotes because i learned the hard way that this car still has the 1st year bugs in it's system... i dont mind them so long as the service guys are not trying to feed me BS with a spoon.
I ned to register and insure my car in FL.. would definately be cheaper than NJ reg/ins... but, that'll have to wait til im financially able to stand on my feet.
< Would spraying seats with static guard help? I < remember reading in these posts something about < this a long time ago. What do others do about < this?
Static guard can help, but only until it dries out - which will probably be in about one day or less.
The zap is the result of the zapee and the car being at different voltage potentials. After driving for a while, the car can acquire quite a charge. The driver and passengers will be at about the same level so you don't realize it.
As you step out, and put your foot on the ground, your charge changes so suddenly there is a big voltage difference between your body and the car's body.
ZAP!!!
The best cure is to keep yourself and the car at the same potential. If you were in constant contact with an exposed metal part of the car's body as you stepped out, you and the car would remain as one, electrically. The charges on both bodies would change together. No voltage difference, and no zap.
Try to keep in contact with some exposed metal on the door (if you can find any) as you step out.
I've noticed some cars running a black (graphite impregnated?) static discharge strip on their underside, attached to a metal part of the car body (usually the rear suspension crossmember) and dragging on the ground. A conductive strip like this should minimize or eliminate the build-up of a static charge - give it a try.
go away for a while and everyone gets a little stand-offish. i know my last post was under my son's best friends log-in name but gosh ... least i thought you folks would say our project looked good. oh well ... back to friendlier confines...
Friends, I'll be off-line for several days and will catch up with you and create Part IV when I return. Don't worry, you will not self-destruct. I hope. ;-)
jw- i recall using a grounding wrist strap,using the universal ic inserter.its amazing ,the power of uncontrolled voltage. silver- static discharge strip is a good idea.i do believe the seat fabric is the culprit.
I likely will be ordering a ZX3 early this spring when my present car comes off lease. Has anyone ordered versus buying off the lot? I have read that waits can be pretty long. I tend to like niche cars and can't believe the value of this head turning car. My current car is a luxury car, but I decided to semi retire and can't see spending a fortune for another one at this time. I will miss leather and a great sound system, but from what I can tell, the Focus has a lot of potential with aftermarket products. I have been online looking for a good value. My husband has a 99 Mustang and our Ford dealer is wonderful. My dealer is just "ok", so I decided to look at Ford after seeing this little car on the street.
Every car I really like seems to have wait lists...any different with the ZX3?
Hi. I don't know where you live, but I bought my ZX3 from Metro Ford in North Hollywood, CA. I started to look at Galpin Ford, the largest Ford dealership in the U.S., and basically, they really weren't too concerned about my specifics in a little Focus (Malibu blue, auto. trans., A/C, CD). They had some Twilight blue ZX3's with cassette players (WHY?), and their attitude was basically, "Well, that's what we have." Garry Bowren, at Metro, searched until he found EXACTLY the car I wanted...from another dealer, and they did a trade. I also got it (loaded) for $13,750, less than what Galpin quoted...AND 5.9% from Ford Credit (with $3,000 down) for 5 years!! I just LOVE it...it's the GREATEST little car ever...PERFECT for me, and what I could afford. Good luck...
As many of you know, I have had significant problems with my Focus. The latest, is that I am getting a new clutch to resolve the loud idle and engine rattle. Not to mention, I need a interior rattle cured, a new interior part and a new headlight. There is no doubt in my mind that ownership of a first model year for a domestic car is not a great idea. I knew this for a fact when I bought the car, but still I did it. Why? It is clearly the best car under 20K. Hard to resist.
I went to a VW dealer last week to sit and compare various models....NB, Golf, Jetta and Passat. There is no question in my mind that these are nice cars, but they are prone to problems too. Very frustrating problems and not much of a dealer network either when you compare to the domestics.
After visiting VW, I really appreciate my 'z' even more. It is like the earlier poster wrote....the greatest little car......it really is.....I just love it. It is so awesome in so many ways...I will count the ways.....there are 3.......driving, comfort and style.
I wish I could count 4.....that is ..... reliability. I don't think it is there yet.
I am hoping that we who have problems with our Foci will get our problems fixed and our little jewels will be problem-free after the first year of ownership. I am envisioning many of us will have a miserable first year of ownership.....take a car to the dealer numerous times.....the problems will eventually be fixed.....and then it will be a more typical car ownership experience.
It will be interesting to know in 6 months if the MY 01 will have better luck.
I am hoping my dealer will be able to fix all my current problems with my car soon. If it is fixed, then I will keep it. If new problems develop. Then I will get them fixed and then trade my car in for something new and different. I will miss my Focus if I have to sell it, but I will because a car is suppose to serve you and not the reverse. If this happens, I will never buy a Ford again and I will tell all the people who may be interested in a Ford to stay away from an unreliable manufacturer of modern cars.
Message to Ford:
The Focus is great. Get it together Ford and you will reap the benefits.
To be clear: Ford you will have customers recommending the Focus to others, and current owners will buy new Focus or trade up to the Mondeo (That's another message for you Ford and don't change the name!!) Ford you need to have design and reliability. If you do this Ford, then no one can touch you.
To be even more clear: Ford you will make a lot of money!
Your engineers are brilliant (Focus is the proof), you must pressure your parts suppliers to be as good, get production to reach for higher and higher goals of quality. Pay your employees well. Give them bonuses and treat them fairly.
Success is not a trick or disguise (it can work like a trick for a while).....success is created from working together, in creating the right team and everyone doing their very best for one goal...the best.
I'd recommend ordering EXACTLY the ZX3 you want, 12 weeks before your lease is up. Until then, I'd ask your Ford dealer to keep checking local area inventory to see if a similarly optioned ZX3 is on somebody's lot.
I'm pleasantly surprised how GOOD the stock CD/radio and speakers sound in the ZX3- I might swap out the speakers but I won't give up the head unit with ergonomically friendly BIG buttons
FWIW - you CAN get leather in the Focus sedan - but then you lose some of that head turning with the ZX3
Project sorry I thought that was you but wasnt sure. Like I said b4 your Z looks beautiful. You must have mad miles on it by now since youre never here as often as you used to be. ND sorry to hear about all your problems I honestly thought that when they replaced your first Z things would be trouble free for you. I'd just have to say that It really seams that the problems each of us have are not a universal thing. I have had my share of problems since getting back my car but nothing as compaired to some others on here. I am very happy with how my car is doing now, not crazy about the MPG but I'd have to admit that it has a little to do with my driving. Other than that things have been going pretty well. I hope and pray that they remain that way.
..also, NorwayDoug. I appreciate your info. I think I will wait and order. I will give it the 12 weeks. I have a favorite Ford dealer that is good at getting the right vehicle and will also order. It is a "country" dealer Jarret-Bodiford Ford in Plant City, Florida, where they really sell a lot of trucks and big vehicles as well as doing fleet deals, but they are extraordinarily nice, much nicer than any of the nearby dealers. "Our" salesman gave us a great deal on my husband's Mustang (35th year edition.) I love driving and am very happy to have found this forum. I will keep reading with interest and marking the days until I can order! I really am looking forward to a Focus.
< Could spraying the seats with Scotch-Guard have < anything to do with it?
Most unlikely.
< I've noticed some cars running a black (graphite < impregnated?) static discharge strip on their < underside and dragging on the ground.
It's next to impossible to ground an object this way. A common practice in the electronics mfg. field has been to use expensive conductive floors and add copper drag chains to rolling chairs to keep them grounded. The chains have zero effect, even on the special flooring. Dragging something from your car over a non-conductive road surface will have equally useless results. And how long is this dragging widget expected to last?
The zap you feel is the result of the person and the mass of the car being at different - much different - voltage levels. It's actually a sudden flow of electrons between the car body and your body. When electrons flow, the result is an electrical current. Hundreds of amps can flow very briefly in some cases.
If you have any electronics knowledge, think of the car and the person as two capactators. Both can achieve and hold some degree of charge and will be at some voltage level above or below ground.
A car, by it's very nature, is also a great static generator. A static charge is generated when two materials come into contact, and are then seperated. Think of your tires and the road. The car is a terrific static generator.
As you drive, the car builds up a charge. The occupants also acquire the same charge. The electrical potential (voltage) difference between the car body and the occupants' bodies is zero. No current flow (zap) is possible at that point.
Now open the car door and set a foot on the ground. Your body capacatance will change by a lot at that moment. The result (without getting too technical) is the voltage level on your body changes. You are now in a position where touching, or even coming near, a metal part on the car will result in a flow of electrons as the electrons on the two bodies attempt to achieve equalibrium. ZAP!
The way to prevent this is to control the electron flow. If the flow is through a sufficiently high resistance for instance, the current flow will occur over a longer period of time, the current will be limited and you won't feel it. Maintaining an electrical connection with the car body as you step out will force the car and your body to change levels together, also eliminating the zap.
Comments
Russian Car. Soviet Military used the 426 (I think) it was in East Germany as a staff car. Similiar to Lada wagon. I don't have a clue as to the Zaporozetch. My best guess would be a tractor by looking at the name, but you guys said it was a car.
Pat
"I saw grandma driving a silver ZX333333 today."
Turning off Genesse onto Cayauga near airport in Buffalo.
Pat
Trabant: They have a Trabant Club in Berlin now. You can only get the gas in the old East Sector. Would like to go back over and see what its like without the wall. Without the wall I could probably get lost. Couldn't get lost before because no matter which way you went you would run into the wall.
Do you mean gas with oil mixed in it?
Or a particular grade of gas?
"Couldn't get lost before because no matter which way you went you would run into the wall."
I've never seen the wall in reality. As I understand it was separating Berlin on East and West sectors, and wasn't encircling the West sector as a region. Am I right?
Sorry for the off topic comments.
Therefore they have ordered
YS42 7550-RA Clutch
YS42 7563-RB Pressure Plate
YS42 7A564-AA Slave
I will give you a report when they replace these parts.
ND
Thanks for the info. I guess I'll keep on nagging my dealer for a production date. Its been four weeks already and only now have I received a VIN. Who knows possibly in another four weeks I'll get a production date.
Great News! My 2001 is on a rail car and due in to Cleveland the week of October 1st
B.t.w. the wall went all around West Berlin. It's purpose (according to the government) was *not* to keep people from fleeing East Germany, rather it was to keep spies and other undesired westerners from entering East Germany. All a matter of perspective. I'd never been in West Berlin until the wall came down, but had friends in East that I visited many times (I'd have needed another visum to visit the western part, too much hassle).
Chicagodriver: Just took delivery of my ZX3 last week. It was ordered on May 26th, built on August 14th, and the dealer received around August 28th (I was on holiday at the time so it took another two weeks before I got the car). So, the grand total was about 14 weeks from order to dealer. B.t.w. that dealer initially told me 6-8 weeks (as do most of them), I knew better even at that time and had them put it in writing where they ammended it to 8-12 weeks. They knew better too.
-Rob-
In seventies every soviet tv news reporter stationed in NYC was feeding countless snapshots of the homeless living in the cardboard shelters near dumpsters. Their commentaries always included lines about unfairness of the capitalistic society towards an average working person which could barely survive on its own.
Doesn't it sound familiar?
Because today you, americans, hear it on TV every day in the Al Gore propaganda speeches. I just hate commies.
Sorry, coudn't resist.
http://www.expage.com/projectzx3 (thats my home page) hello to all my old friends! notice the deer on my home page! hehe ....
Don't usually like tint on the windows but this worked.
your insight and value your experiences that
you relate here regarding the evils of communism.
unfortunately,there are many that take our
freedoms for granted.im glad your here to remind us what it was like and the way it still is.you are right-on. if this is off topic, so be it.
a wake-up call is always welcome. thanks man!
I paid 15108 out the door (tax, title...)with the power group, premium group, abs, and side air bags. Tax is 6% in Michigan, bummer. talk to ya later...
One more note: you might want to add "rear hatch dinged by roof rack" to the list of flaws. This is a Kona-only problem but all Konas seem to have it.
THANX
Personally, I've had my ZX3 for 9,000+ miles, about 5 months. It has been absolutely great and perfect and I haven't had a single problem. Based on my experience, I would recommend the ZX3.
Thanks and Thumbs Up!
I was speaking with my mechanic brother-in-law and he says that since my ZX3 doesn't have ABS, switching to rear disc's shouldn't be super hard. Seeing as how the the JacksonRacing ZX3 has rear disc's from Baer, I am starting to that is would be a worth while upgrage. With the added bonus of looking better with my thin spoked wheels.
Does anyone else have info on a rear disc upgrade for our cars??
Jimmy
Emperor for life
Jimmy- the factory CD ROM shows some of the parts you'll need to convert... and it isn't trivial. Keep in mind you'll need different handbrake cables, and possibly a different master cylinder and brake proportioning valve in addition to the obvious hub/bearing/rotor/caliper parts at the wheels. Don't automatically assume rear discs are better than drums - look at the Civic Si.
dealer says there is no fresh air vent
he told me to use ac
i use it any time it is above 65 degrees
just on low
exiting vehicle. this evening very large visible
spark generated off door.,could also feel it
run up arm.by far the largest i ever encountered. the weather is drier but relative
humidity at about 77%.very strange.i know
this has been discussed previously.do not like.
Jimmy
ND, yes, I soon realized that the hatch won't open unless both doors are unlocked but, the seat belt warning bell sometimes disarms when you get out of the car with the engine still running and sometimes does not. Just a little thing of no concern.
If your getting hot air out of vent and you can't get cool air, then something is wrong. Take the guy for a ride and ask him to compare outside air to the vent air.
May have to go back to the rattlesnake thing if they don't get it.
Pat
I ned to register and insure my car in FL.. would definately be cheaper than NJ reg/ins... but, that'll have to wait til im financially able to stand on my feet.
til next time...
NJ
< remember reading in these posts something about
< this a long time ago. What do others do about
< this?
Static guard can help, but only until it dries out - which will probably be in about one day or less.
The zap is the result of the zapee and the car being at different voltage potentials. After driving for a while, the car can acquire quite a charge. The driver and passengers will be at about the same level so you don't realize it.
As you step out, and put your foot on the ground, your charge changes so suddenly there is a big voltage difference between your body and the car's body.
ZAP!!!
The best cure is to keep yourself and the car at the same potential. If you were in constant contact with an exposed metal part of the car's body as you stepped out, you and the car would remain as one, electrically. The charges on both bodies would change together. No voltage difference, and no zap.
Try to keep in contact with some exposed metal on the door (if you can find any) as you step out.
Jimmy!
carlady/host
You know, all that off-topic stuff.
the universal ic inserter.its amazing ,the power
of uncontrolled voltage.
silver- static discharge strip is a good idea.i do believe the seat fabric is the culprit.
carlady/host
Every car I really like seems to have wait lists...any different with the ZX3?
I just LOVE it...it's the GREATEST little car ever...PERFECT for me, and what I could afford.
Good luck...
As many of you know, I have had significant problems with my Focus. The latest, is that I am getting a new clutch to resolve the loud idle and engine rattle. Not to mention, I need a interior rattle cured, a new interior part and a new headlight. There is no doubt in my mind that ownership of a first model year for a domestic car is not a great idea. I knew this for a fact when I bought the car, but still I did it. Why? It is clearly the best car under 20K. Hard to resist.
I went to a VW dealer last week to sit and compare various models....NB, Golf, Jetta and Passat. There is no question in my mind that these are nice cars, but they are prone to problems too. Very frustrating problems and not much of a dealer network either when you compare to the domestics.
After visiting VW, I really appreciate my 'z' even more. It is like the earlier poster wrote....the greatest little car......it really is.....I just love it. It is so awesome in so many ways...I will count the ways.....there are 3.......driving, comfort and style.
I wish I could count 4.....that is ..... reliability. I don't think it is there yet.
I am hoping that we who have problems with our Foci will get our problems fixed and our little jewels will be problem-free after the first year of ownership. I am envisioning many of us will have a miserable first year of ownership.....take a car to the dealer numerous times.....the problems will eventually be fixed.....and then it will be a more typical car ownership experience.
It will be interesting to know in 6 months if the MY 01 will have better luck.
I am hoping my dealer will be able to fix all my current problems with my car soon. If it is fixed, then I will keep it. If new problems develop. Then I will get them fixed and then trade my car in for something new and different. I will miss my Focus if I have to sell it, but I will because a car is suppose to serve you and not the reverse. If this happens, I will never buy a Ford again and I will tell all the people who may be interested in a Ford to stay away from an unreliable manufacturer of modern cars.
Message to Ford:
The Focus is great. Get it together Ford and you will reap the benefits.
To be clear: Ford you will have customers recommending the Focus to others, and current owners will buy new Focus or trade up to the Mondeo (That's another message for you Ford and don't change the name!!) Ford you need to have design and reliability. If you do this Ford, then no one can touch you.
To be even more clear: Ford you will make a lot of money!
Your engineers are brilliant (Focus is the proof), you must pressure your parts suppliers to be as good, get production to reach for higher and higher goals of quality. Pay your employees well. Give them bonuses and treat them fairly.
Success is not a trick or disguise (it can work like a trick for a while).....success is created from working together, in creating the right team and everyone doing their very best for one goal...the best.
Enough already (BUT I AM DEAD RIGHT!)---
Ford should hire me.
NorwayDoug
Yes, Ford needs not only someone who will listen, but someone who has the power to act on what they listen to! You have my vote.
Pat
I'd recommend ordering EXACTLY the ZX3 you want, 12 weeks before your lease is up. Until then, I'd
ask your Ford dealer to keep checking local area inventory to see if a similarly optioned ZX3 is on somebody's lot.
I'm pleasantly surprised how GOOD the stock CD/radio and speakers sound in the ZX3- I might swap out the speakers but I won't give up the head unit with ergonomically friendly BIG buttons
FWIW - you CAN get leather in the Focus sedan - but then you lose some of that head turning with
the ZX3
ND sorry to hear about all your problems I honestly thought that when they replaced your first Z things would be trouble free for you. I'd just have to say that It really seams that the problems each of us have are not a universal thing. I have had my share of problems since getting back my car but nothing as compaired to some others on here. I am very happy with how my car is doing now, not crazy about the MPG but I'd have to admit that it has a little to do with my driving. Other than that things have been going pretty well. I hope and pray that they remain that way.
I really am looking forward to a Focus.
So there you have it. It is a sure way of telling the difference.
Please let me know which badging you prefer.....2000 or 2001
ND
< anything to do with it?
Most unlikely.
< I've noticed some cars running a black (graphite
< impregnated?) static discharge strip on their
< underside and dragging on the ground.
It's next to impossible to ground an object this way. A common practice in the electronics mfg. field has been to use expensive conductive floors and add copper drag chains to rolling chairs to keep them grounded. The chains have zero effect, even on the special flooring. Dragging something from your car over a non-conductive road surface will have equally useless results. And how long is this dragging widget expected to last?
The zap you feel is the result of the person and the mass of the car being at different - much different - voltage levels. It's actually a sudden flow of electrons between the car body and your body. When electrons flow, the result is an electrical current. Hundreds of amps can flow very briefly in some cases.
If you have any electronics knowledge, think of the car and the person as two capactators. Both can achieve and hold some degree of charge and will be at some voltage level above or below ground.
A car, by it's very nature, is also a great static generator. A static charge is generated when two materials come into contact, and are then seperated. Think of your tires and the road. The car is a terrific static generator.
As you drive, the car builds up a charge. The occupants also acquire the same charge. The electrical potential (voltage) difference between the car body and the occupants' bodies is zero. No current flow (zap) is possible at that point.
Now open the car door and set a foot on the ground. Your body capacatance will change by a lot at that moment. The result (without getting too technical) is the voltage level on your body changes. You are now in a position where touching, or even coming near, a metal part on the car will result in a flow of electrons as the electrons on the two bodies attempt to achieve equalibrium. ZAP!
The way to prevent this is to control the electron flow. If the flow is through a sufficiently high resistance for instance, the current flow will occur over a longer period of time, the current will be limited and you won't feel it. Maintaining an electrical connection with the car body as you step out will force the car and your body to change levels together, also eliminating the zap.