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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)



  • littlehlittleh Member Posts: 21
    Hello gangs,
    Would some ones please advise me: Can I use Honda Accord parts to replace Acura Intergra LS parts?
    (I need to replace the strut kits for my 1989 Intergra LS Hatchback door)
    Thank you very much for your help,
    Little H
  • fixingoldfixingold Member Posts: 1
    Is there anything out there which I can purchase to repair the defrost lines on the rear window? I've scrapped into the lines while removing the tint film and need them repaired.. It goes on a 88 Integra LS hatchback.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    I have used a repair kit that can be purchased at an auto supply store. The kit includes a "mask" which is a piece of stiff paper with a slot cut in it and a bottle of copper-containing paint. Place the mask over the damaged area and paint over the damage with the paint. Worked fine on an '87 Horizon that was damaged when removing a decal.
  • 94acura94acura Member Posts: 12
    I have a 94 acura integra LS. The retractable antena won't go all the way back since last year. The problem seems getting worse in the winter time. I am wondering if I can repair it by myself.( Cause the garage will charge couple hundred bucks for this ). If I can do it myself, would you please tell me what kind of tools I need? Thanks
  • srockrsrockr Member Posts: 79
    Am looking into a used Integra. Hopefully the last year made w/ reasonable mileage and well maintained. Have been looking at new cars but the other makes just don't do it for me. Too many weird problems with new cars anymore (& can't afford new Acura.)


    What is a reasonable mileage to hope for on say a '01 Integra?

    How safe would a "certified" Integra be from Acura dealer and would you suggest I have an independent mechanic check car over before purchasing?

    Are timing belts really about $1,200 to replace from Acura dealer (& does this include water pumpt replacement?)Just had a Chrysler belt changed along with water pump and timing belt pully-thing done for about $600.

    What other out of pocket (normal wear items) & approximate dealer maintenance cost will I be generally looking at (as long as car previously was well maintained?)

    Am I taking a chance getting a used Integra from dealship (i.e. am I getting someone's headache?)or on average are they usually pretty well maintained?

    Thanks appreciate it...
  • srockrsrockr Member Posts: 79
    Sorry about misspellings, rambling, etc. It's pretty late right now... Brain fog I guess..
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    My wife has a '97 Integra GS coupe that has been absolutely bulletproof in nearly six years of ownership. They are solid cars.

    You are right to be concerned about the condition of a used one. I would not buy one that did not have a traceable history and/or had not been checked by someone your trust well. I think the actual mileage is not as important as how the car was treated and maintained.

    I expect you will find maintenance costs to be slightly higher since Acura is a premium brand. But, I have found that routine maintenance parts are available at a Honda dealer and that a Honda dealer will do non-warranty maintenance.

    I hope you can find what you want. My wife still has hers even though she bought a new BMW 325Ci in February. The Integra is just too much fun to give up.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    You can look up Honda and Acura recommended service intervals, including estimated parts/labor costs, in Edmunds' Maintenance Guide. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your purchase.


    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • cied2cied2 Member Posts: 3
    My 88' Integra LS gives me a shower the first few times I break after a rainstorm. I was able to find and blow out the front drain holes. This did not help. Are there any other drains in the sunroof area that I missed? Where are they? The sunroof area is currently taped all around so the leaking has stopped. I would appreciate any and all suggestions as how to eliminate this problem .Thanx, Ed.
  • tegyourittegyourit Member Posts: 13
    guys i must say ive learned so much just reading your stories tips etc...i just purchased a 96 teg se...fully loaded...84000 miles paid 7300...i think it was a steal...although theres a few lil things i need to find and fix so im here for tips and opinions...

    1. when first starting the car in the morning i get a whining like sound that queits down after about 10 seconds but can still hear slightly asthe rev of the engine increases...thinking maybe a pulley bearing on its way out...

    2. i get a few squeaks and rattles from the rear and passenger side of car..one sounds like maybe the hatch but ive tried the electrical tape trick on hatch hook and still hear the sound...the other rattles sound more like the suspension bushings or upper shock tower bushing...but im not sure if its that or just loose interior fittings..i.e. the plastics along hatch area and back seat...its really annoying when the car rides so fairly smooth and i hear the rattles when my stereo isnt up...any help in these areas is more than appreciated...i intend on putting work into in the near future but money isnt in my reach at the time to do so...

    complete new suspension, very quiet exhaust (not into the screaming loud pipes) aem cai a must, just to name a few mods...well thanks again fellas for any tips tricks advice etc u may give to me...teg your it..=0)
  • andrewdnaandrewdna Member Posts: 32
    man, I dont know. That doesnt look like a steal to me. I am looking at a 99 gsr for $14k @ 40k miles. anyone know if the 99 model comes with heated front seats?
  • tegyourittegyourit Member Posts: 13
    why isnt it a steal....u tell me where u will find one else where...the se color(burgandy) not to many around (grey leather) the most wanted gsr rims on it...runs strong feels strong looks strong..
    stop drinking haterade...
  • gweinsteingweinstein Member Posts: 4
    I just won a bid on a '98 Integra LS 4Dr (67K mi) on ebay, picking it up on Monday in the town of Oxford, MS. Any advice on the following would be greatly appreciated:

    1. Any special instructions for the mechanic's inspection? Is there any remote chance that someone here knows a trustworthy mechanic in that town?
    2. Any tips about the test drive?
    3. Once back here any tips on the initial service: should I have the timing belt replaced?
    4. Any other tips?

    Thanks in advance,
    Gilbert Weinstein

    PS. BTW price tag: $7311 + $99 docs. Reasonable?
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Check out the tips in this Edmunds' article: Buying and Selling Cars on eBay.

    Others here may have more to add. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your delivery experience. ;-)


    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • tegyourittegyourit Member Posts: 13
    i post get no replies ...this guy post about getting the car and get replies...did i do something wrong here...ahh hell with it..h-t here i come
  • gweinsteingweinstein Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Revka for the congratulations and for the link.

    Yes, I think I did all that...

    Only thing it's not easy to find a Honda/Acura mechanic in Oxford, MS! Checked the yellow pages online, but how do you find out who's reliable. Even found a guy that works only on BMWs!? Oh well, guess I'll just have to take a chance.

    I'll follow up later this week.

  • gweinsteingweinstein Member Posts: 4
    Well, we picked up the car today (my two daughters and myself). Had it checked up there, but probably not a very comprehensive check-up. Only a couple of points came up:

    1. Kind of noisy (after-market) muffler (see more about this below).

    2. Front bumper replaced. No car accident on the Carfax report and no frame damage. Mechanic conjectured that it was a small collision and was never reported to the insurance.

    3. Small tear in the back passenger door panel (plastic). Seller suggested magic glue and liquid leather. Also minor damage to headliner.

    4. At first, I could not get the ignition key out. The mechanic managed to do it and showed me the trick. Don't push the gear lever all the way to the top (or nudge it back a tad). Seller claimed that this problem is endemic to Integras and Civics. Is that so?

    Car behaved very well on the way back (192 miles). I do want to replace the muffler. If anyone here want to make an early offer on the muffler, he can see the item on ebay:

    I have a 3 months/3000 miles powertrain waranty, so I guess I will take it in somewhere here in Birmingham to make sure there are no serious problems.

    Any suggestions, tips, etc, will be greatly appreciated.

    I do have one specific question: the timing belt. Edmunds says replace at 60K; I've seen here 90K; Seller says 75K. I know this is probably not a science, but which figure is more accurate?


  • jaydee6jaydee6 Member Posts: 1
    I disconnected my friend's battery (both cables) in order to recharge it. Now, the radio won't play and the dealer wants $120 to reset the code. We know the code, but don't know how to pull the radio or how to do the reset.
    Can anyone help us?
  • czuczu Member Posts: 1
    Car has 160k miles. Oriiginal owner. Well maintained.

    For over a year, I have been trying to diagnose my integra's overheating problem. Replaced thermostat, hoses and radiator is not original.
    Thermostat registers near "red" when driving freeway speeds over about 30minutes and gets worse going up hills.

    Recently "overheated" around town and mechanic said it was the Oil Filter Housing Coolant Hoses which were worn ..but also said he had never replaced those on any car.

    Well one week later the car is still running hot and this time on a short 15 mile trip.

    Also have the leaking sunroof which has been mentioned a few times on this board...

    Otherwise a great car that I want to keep going.

    Any Ideas?
  • huxley123huxley123 Member Posts: 10
    I am looking at a 200 Integra LS 2-dr Auto with 27K on it. It is Acura ceritified -- used to be the service loaner for the dealer so they looked after it themselves. Dealer is asking 13,900 for it - but might settle for 13K or even less.
    Seems to me like a good deal. However, there are certain questions that I have about the Integra LS:

    1. The dealer said that the car has a immobilizer system, Edmunds also mentions an 'Alarm System' among the standard features. However there is no standard keyless. Does someone know how this alarm system works ?
    The dealer said it would take $600 to install an Acura alarm system with Keyless on it - sounds a bit too much for me. If I wanted to install something aftermarket what would be a good choice for the Acura ?

    2. Does the Integra LS have a VTEC engine ? I found the car to be slightly sluggish in both city driving as well as while trying to reach 60mph on the highway. I had expected a much better response. I drive a Subaru Forester (H4 165hp) and that drives much zippier. This might however simply be a psychological since 0-60 on the Acuras are supposed to be 7.5 sec. ALso it was quite cold (below 10) when I did the test drive -- could that affect the performance ?

    3. Does someone know what kind of mileage the Integra LS will give with a auto ?

    4. What is the main difference between the LS and GS models ? Another dealer in town is selling a 99GS with 32K. They might come out to the same price almost. Is is worth going for a GS ?

    Any comments/suggestion will be welcome.
    Thanks in advance
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    1. a chip in the key has to present a code to the computer before it will allow the car to run. That is the immobilizer. Also happens to make for very expensive replacement keys. The keyless w/ alarm also gets you a glass breakage sensor, and an audible alarm if the car is being ripped off.

    2. 2000 LS does have a VTEC engine - you have to rev it way way up to cross over to the high power cam, so if that is not your driving style you will not get the full benefit from this wonderful engine! The Forester is all about low-end torque, that is a vehicle I have some experience driving, and it is zippy for moderate-speed stuff, but runs out of gas trying to do fast passes on the highway. The Acura is exactly the opposite - a bit of a dog when it comes to low-end torque, but once you get it wound up, it takes off like a rocket.

    3. mpg can vary a lot with driving style, of course. I have a friend with a '99 that always gets mid-20s. If you drive like Mario, you will probably get less, especially around town. Get the manual if you can drive stick - it is a lot more fun!

    4. LS and GS have the same powertrain but GS has standard leather seats, and usually has the alloy wheels where the LS often had wheel covers. GS has more features.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    overheating at highway speeds sounds an a-w-f-u-l lot like you need a new radiator - is there any reason for you to think that it doesn't? It might also be a sign of problems with the head - do you lose any coolant? I am assuming you have checked and there is plenty of coolant present, and no obvious external leaks.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    The LS/GS engine does NOT feature VTEC. It's a standard DOHC configuration w/a redline below 7000rpm. It does make its power in the upper end of the rev range, but the cam profiles do not change.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    I have had an old '88 LS for a couple of days now, and I am super impressed. This thing drives like it is new, 240K, original engine and trans (manual).

    It is the most fun to drive of any car I have ever had, except maybe the '02 celica. But the celica was super confining inside, and this thing is spacious by comparison.

    The engine is the best, bar none. Accelerates instantly and easily, spins freely.

    Plus, I know I am hopelessly outdated, but I like the pop-up headlights!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • xiuxuxiuxu Member Posts: 6
    I am planning an used acura integra LS,1998,
    hatchback,red,looks nice.leather,ABS,CD,
    in wisconsin.
    the milage is 100k,the seller asked for
    $6500,is this price reasonable?
    thanks a lot.

    [email protected]
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Have you tried plugging this vehicle into Edmunds' Used Vehicle Appraiser? This will give you the average prive others paid in your region. Others here may have more to add....

    Good luck, and please keep us posted on your purchase. ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • xiuxuxiuxu Member Posts: 6

     thanks for your reply.
    I checked this car in Edmunds'Used Vehicle Appraiser, and the prices of Trade-in Private Party, Dealer, Retail are $6,568 $7,826 $9,278,
    respectively,it seems that the price of the car
    is acceptable,and even a little cheaper.
    But,I think the prices in Edmunds' used vehicle
    are a little higher than usual.

  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    "...I think the prices in Edmunds' used vehicle
    are a little higher than usual."

    Sure seems that way in your case. Edmunds' TMV is based on a regional average (not lowest cost) over a given period of time, so prices will vary from city to city. Of course your seller may be also eager to sell... and has priced the vehicle below the local market value. Have you compared it with other 98 Integras in your local newspaper ads?

    You may also want to copy/paste your question in the Integra GRS discussion on our Coupes and Convertible Board. Someone there may have some helpful feedback to offer. Good luck. ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    a 5-year-old integra with leather and 100K for $6500, I say jump on it! I would think it would be worth closer to $8-9K in my area.

    I am assuming of course that it does not need repairs right now, and for goodness sake make sure they have already replaced the timing belt!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • xiuxuxiuxu Member Posts: 6
    we went to make an inspection,the inspector
    told me that it's a nice car,but the timing
    belt replacing will cost me $450. So,the
    seller lowered the price to $6000.I bought
    it. I don't know whether I should replace
    the timing belt right now or I can use the
    car for several months more,then replace
    the timing belt.Could you please give any
    thanks a lot.
  • xiuxuxiuxu Member Posts: 6
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    DO NOT WAIT. Get the timing belt changed right away - after all, that is why the price was lowered anyway, so you should have it figured into the cost of the car, right?

    They have a rep for breaking soon after their normal service life, especially if you make full use of the rev spectrum of the engine, and they will destroy the engine internally if they break.

    Get it changed. Make sure they do the water pump as well. These little Honda water pumps never go 120K.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    Also, congrats on your purchase. Sounds like you got a great deal. Btw, in Edmunds' Maintenance Guide you can look up manufacturer recommended service schedules including estimated parts/labor costs.... For future reference, you'll find this guide in our Ownership Section. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your Acura Integra experience.

    To nippononly- Thanks for all your help/feedback on this board. Happy motoring! ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • brekkebrekke Member Posts: 304
    I need to buy front struts for an 87 LS. Does anyone have any suggestions on where or what to buy? I wasn't crazy about the ride, it was very harsh. This car is not worth anything, and my brother-in-law will be doing the install. Also, I had them done in 12/00, there's probably less than 25K on them. How long do they usually last? Should I just buy from Pep Boys?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    is that few miles on them, why replace? Are they leaking? otherwise they should still be fine.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • brekkebrekke Member Posts: 304
    the front end is totally collapsed and even touching the right tire. I'm assuming it was from all the snow - it hadn't been driven in weeks. (I took it out briefly after spring thaw and realized, hmmm, something is very wrong) It's undriveable as is. I was instructed to buy struts, for all I know it could be something else.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    it was buried under a snowdrift? That does not bode well!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    are a type of strut, whereas KYB is a brand that makes shocks and struts.

    KYB are pretty good in general.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • hopeful4hopeful4 Member Posts: 2
    I'm considering the purchase of a '99 Integra GS (leather, moonroof). This was purchased by the dealer off-lease, with 35K miles. The dealer performs a quality inspection, as well as a local repair shop. He's asking $12,998. Seems like a great price. The reliability and sportiness are big attractions.

    Now, about the details. When test driving it, I noticed a steady hum after about 35 mph. The dealer suspects it's from a wheel cylinder, and he's having that inspected/repaired tomorrow. I've seen some complaints of road and engine noise in other postings. Is the Integra generally a quiet car? Also, what about driver seat comfort? I'm about 200 lbs, and have a 30 minute commute to work. I also enjoy weekend drives out of town. How comfortable is the seating for a length of time?
  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    The noise could be a bad wheel bearing. Your profile doesn't indicate what part of the country you're in, but if it's anywhere snowy, there's a good chance that could be it (salt kills 'em). If the noise increases/decreases when you go around corners or turn the wheel at highway speeds, you'll know for sure it's a bearing.

    More likely, however, is that the original tires have hardened and are growling. The stock tires on every Integra (save for the Type-R) were pretty crummy to begin with. Try to work the deal for the cost of new tires (~$400), or at least get the dealer to commit in writing that they'll mount and balance your new tires for free (worth ~$120).

    And no, the Integra is not known for a quiet ride. Fun, yes -- quiet, not really. Your choice of tire can have a lot to do with road noise, if that's a real concern for you, and you could always get some Dynamat to put in the doors to help quell the wind noise

    I did a bunch (~450,000) of highway miles in two Integras, and found the seats to be excellent. I'm a bit narrower in frame than you (150lbs.), so there's a chance you could find the relatively tight interior kind of claustrophobic after a long time in the seat.

    Good luck with your purchase. The Integra is a modern-day classic.
  • hopeful4hopeful4 Member Posts: 2
    I should have mentioned that the dealer has already replaced the tires with a Dunlop Sport style. And yes, I'm in a snowy part of the country. I live in Virginia, the car was leased in Maryland, and since you're in NY, you know what a winter we had here in the East! I hope the wheel bearing service takes care of the problem. Speaking of weather, how well does an Integra handle icy roads?

    How complicated and expensive is the Dynamat installation you mentioned, and does it make a significant difference? Wind/road noise is my only real area of concern with this car.

    Thanks for your helpful input!
  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    You're very welcome.

    Being a front-driver, it does very well in the snow. I only did winter miles while driving on Artic Aplins or Blizzaks, so I can't vouch for the use of all-seasons.

    Depending upon whether you are located in a mountain or coastal area, if you were to get an aggressive all-season tire like the Dunlop Sport SP5000, you should be fine in the wintertime.

    You can purchase Dynamat thru car audio shops or online at http://www.crutchfield.com -- basically, you'd need to pull the interior panels of your doors and trunk to apply it. It adds a bit of weight and is not inexpensive, but it does do a good job of quieting the interior.
  • vinu_neurovinu_neuro Member Posts: 22
      I am planning on getting an Integra for my first car. I am looking at the '93 GS3 (1.7L VTEC). Any one have an idea of what the insurance might be like for a 16 year old driver.
  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    Call GEICO -- they sell the stuff.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    sport coupe?

    Rates will not be that good, that is for sure.

    Liability and comp on mine costs more than on my (newer) 4Runner.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • harry_acuraharry_acura Member Posts: 1
    hi all

        I joined this group recently. I want your advice for making my decession on buying a 91 Acura-2 dr GS Hatchback/ 78000 milage (with leather seat and sun roof). I live in San Jose california. the owner is quoting $4500. is it reasonable. He has not replaced timing belt, he says it will come for many more miles. please advice.

  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    Inform the dealer that time is a greater enemy of a timing belt than is mileage.

    We're in different worlds, used car market-wise, so I can't say if that's a good deal or not.
  • vinu_neurovinu_neuro Member Posts: 22
    What is the difference between the LS and GS?
  • himilerhimiler Member Posts: 1,209
    GS vs. LS -- GS came w/ leather and rear spoiler, and depending on the model year, the GS had standard alloy wheels and was available in a few different colors not offered for the LS.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    the LS usually came with alloys anyway however...before 1990 LS was top of the line I believe and they all had alloys...from 1996 on it is hard to find an LS with alloys, which is a shame. They were pushing their customers to pay for leather seats on the GS in order to get the alloy wheels.

    harry acura: I would not wait on replacing that timing belt. Not only is it 12 years old, but it has done more miles than it should have at this point too.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

This discussion has been closed.