Acura Integra - (All years/styles)

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  • mk26mk26mk26mk26 Member Posts: 8
    I can't find my mfr's warranty for my 1990 Integra. If anyone still has a copy of the warranty, I'd be most grateful if you could look up whether there's a lifetime warranty for seatbelts. My passive restraint on the driver's side stopped working.

    Many thanks.

            Martin
  • integradriverintegradriver Member Posts: 123
    Didn't know about the sticker in the glovebox...moot point anyway. I called the dealer because the code card that I have didn't work...they changed the radio for me back in 1998! And the new card was in my service records...which got stolen a few months ago (car broken into, that's all they took). But they had a new code for me.

    I got the timing belt done at around 60K miles, I suppose a Honda dealer could do it, but I don't like my local Honda dealer so I still go back to Acura.

    Couldn't tell you about the warranty, but if it's supposed to be lifetime, you should be able to call a dealer and confirm this.
  • cageym2cageym2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi people. I've not been to this board before and don't own an Integra, but I am hoping you will be able to help me help a friend who is seeking my advice.

    The car at issue is a 1995 Integra RS with 110,000 miles. My friend is a salesman and spends a lot of time in the car, though it is all local driving.

    Recently the ABS warning light has been on. He took it in for service and was told that the "modulator" and "accumulator" needed to be replaced, a $1600 investment. They were pretty vague about the safety if the repairs weren't made, but didn't say outright it was unsafe. It's a lot of money for a car that probably isn't worth 3 times that!

    I guess the question is whether he just ignores it, unloads the car now, without repairs, or fixes it and hopes to get another couple of years out of the vehicle. Any advice?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    it does not affect the regular operation of the braking system. So the question is, how much does your friend care about ABS? I kinda doubt I would fix it, I would just keep the car and drive it. But make sure that if the car is sold, the buyer is aware the ABS is non-functional (ie don't disconnect the light!). :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    After two years of uncertainty, my wife has decided to keep her '97 Integra GS coupe with 31K miles. It's her "weekend" car now since she drives her 325Ci the rest of the time. She wanted to keep the Integra in the family, but none of our kids need a car (son just bought a Corvette).

    So, I am back to spending a modest amount to improve its performance, particularly handling. Previous advice from himiler and only1harry was to install a Comptech rear brace and larger sway bar. Is that still the advice? How much handling improvement will I see? I did replace the orginal Michelins with Dunlop SP 5000, and the handling improved a lot. Still, I can notice the understeer.

    How much will a new exhaust header and exhaust system help the engine? I see that Comptech sells both, but I am wondering if anyone has other recommendations.
  • jimc93sijimc93si Member Posts: 34
    I would put on an AEM CAI and the stiffer rear sway bar. Mine is stock except for Kumho tires and the AEM CAI and it is plenty fast for me.
     Upgrading the exhaust header is pretty worthless except at WOT, but it looks good and you obviously have the money. You could go for a full catback exhaust, also.
  • car_lover1car_lover1 Member Posts: 3
    Hey all

    I am looking to buy a 90 Acura Integra 4 dr sedan. It has 124K miles on it,auto, p/w,p/l,no leaks.
    I was wondering if you knew of any potential problems that this particular model might have or pose in the future?
    The owner says that the car is a-ok with no problems.

    appreciate any input...
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    look for flaking in the paint clear coat and check the area under the trunk where the spare tire sits for standing water or signs there has been water running in in the past. Check the taillights to make sure there is not water sitting inside.

    Also, the timing belt, with plugs and valve adjustment was just due at 120K - was any of it done? If not, has it been done in the last 30K?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • car_lover1car_lover1 Member Posts: 3
    First off, thanks to the host for reposting my message in the right forum - I get lost in this cyber maze!

    And thanks also to nippononly for the advice. The timing belt was replaced at 90Kmiles. Do you (or anyone else?) still think thats ok or does the car need a 120K service? What else apart from the timing belt/plugs/valve adjstment are due at this stage?

    again, thank for the input.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    is fine, then. Besides those other items, you would normally flush the coolant every 30K and replace the air filter, but both are cheap so no worries. Oh yeah, and replace distributor cap and rotor along with the plugs if you do them. If it is running well, though, you can put the tune-up parts off until the next smog check or whatever.

    The paint and rear leak issues are much more important than that, and if it is sound in both areas, you have a great deal on your hands!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • car_lover1car_lover1 Member Posts: 3
    ok so now I have another question....excuse the level of my limited knowledge since I am new to Acuras (they don't have em back home!)

    someone mentioned that I should find out whether the 90 Integra LS I'm looking at has passed a vehicle emissions inspection and that cars that old rarely do. Is that true even for the 90 Acuras?

    some more updates...the car I saw has some axle noise from the front right...and the rear window doesn't work. I havent had the chance to get it inspected yet - are these expensive repairs? Should I even get myself into this? I am jst scared that I might end up with a car and have to do a lot with it before its driveable!
    But I liked it nonetheless!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    so what are you going to do about that window? If it stays up and keeps the rain out, I would leave it. I am sure it would be relatively expensive to fix, yes. If by "axle noise" you mean clicking like bad CVs, that will be about $300 at a shop for a new axle installed (or $500 at the Acura dealer). Beyond that, it gets a little hard to diagnose over the airwaves.

    Hondas and Acuras run very clean in general - my '88 always passed smog even with the tune-up overdue, and 200K+ on the clock. But also bear in mind that passing the smog check may be the seller's responsibility - it certainly is here in California. So you shouldn't have to worry about it.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mlinhardtmlinhardt Member Posts: 9
    I have a 97 GSR with 135K miles.

    I had the radiator go at 120K. I get about 50K for clutches, and 24K for rotors. Overall very disappointing reliability compared to my 153K mile 93 Civic, and my 168K mile 93 Rodeo.

    Is the rattling from the transmission? I had a carrier bearing problem $$$$ and the transmission had to be disassembled and some of the parts had to be replaced.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    to hear about all those problems with your car. :-(

    Where does the rattle sound like it is coming from? You may want to post on the Maintenance and Repair board.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • flsparrowflsparrow Member Posts: 2
    Help, I am about to purchase a '99 Acura Integra LS. It is in excellent condition with only 38,000 miles; one owner. Any info. will be helpful in making my decision. Asking price $10,000. Is this too high? Car recently had its 35,000 mile check-up at dealer.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    You might want to check used car pricing here at Edmunds.com. Just click on the "Used Cars" tab and navigate your way to the price estimator. If the car you mention would be rated as "clean", my first impression is that the $10K asking price is in the ballpark.

    My wife still loves her '97 GS coupe.
  • flsparrowflsparrow Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I checked at the Edmunds site and yes, $10,000 is in the ballpark. The '99 that I am looking at is very clean and has been maintained. Thanks for your help.
  • jkunyajkunya Member Posts: 3
    Hi. I'm looking at a 1987 Acura Integra as a possible first car for my 15.5 year old son. The car has 110k miles on it and has a new exhaust system. I've been told it has a new timing belt also. The interior is in excellent condition with everything working (COLD A/C) except the radio speakers seem bad and the rear wiper doesn't work. It's an automatic, 1.6L 4 cyl, with sunroof, cruise, AM/FM cassette & equalizer and that's about it (no power windows, doors, or mirrors). The body is in very good condition, but it does look like it has had some body filler and paint added around the rear wheel wells; otherwise no rust or dings. Runs & drive very well!

    I know there are many factors in determining a price, but given the above and it being a Acura Integra what is a decent price for a car like this?

    Is there anything I should watch out for in this car (due to its' age or history)? I'm a little leary because it doesn't have ABS brakes or airbags which I'd like to have for my son.

    Thank you,
    -Joe
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    engines on these things are rock solid - my '88 ran 255K before I sold it.

    That said, the little things do add up. The rear wiper on mine was inoperative too - rear end electrical gremlins on these cars are very common. You should make sure all the rear lights work, including the third brake light.

    The radio speaker problem is also very common - this one can be rectified if need be for $50/pair or so.

    Old Honda automatics - you need to be careful. Does it shift promptly into every gear, and is there any hesitation to change gears while driving, even when stone cold? You want the answers to these two questions to be yes and no, in that order. Check the color of the fluid too - nothing burnt or dark.

    With all that said, if it is in excellent condition it would be worth around $2000 in my area, but in your case I would knock that down several hundred for body filler and the like. Make sure that t-belt was truly replaced!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jkunyajkunya Member Posts: 3
    Nippononly,

    Thanks for the information. It's very helpful and insightful.

    -J
  • bumpitnahoebumpitnahoe Member Posts: 3
    I am looking to buy a 1991 Acura Integra GS 2 dr. for $2250 w/ 187,000 miles. I am a college student and will be taking the car to school. Is this worth it? The owner has kept track of all maintenance since he's owned it (got it at 62,000 mi) and it looks like he's kept up on it. Routine oil changes and the such. Here are the major repairs that have been done since 62,000 when he got it...front and rear brake pads at around 80-90k, brake master cylinder replaced at 105k, timing belt replaced twice last change at 168k, water pump replaced at 112k, both outer CV boots replaced around 140k, radiator at 155k, distributor at 168k, alternator at 180k, and new exhaust system at 184k. what do you think?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    welllll, it's a fun car!

    condition of: leather seats? body and paint? look at the bottom of the engine for signs of oil leaks. open the hatch and pull up the carpet to look for signs of water coming in - a major hassle to deal with that might make you less happy come rainy season.

    if all of that gives you the right answers, it might be worth $2250 where I live (CA). manual or automatic?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • bumpitnahoebumpitnahoe Member Posts: 3
    haven't gone to see it but i was told it has cloth seats with only problem being a small tear in the driver's seat...nothing major. as for the body on the records it says left quarter panel was repaired and entire car was repainted at Maaco at 167k, as for oil leaks the oil pan, oil pan gasket, and drain plug were replaced at 117k so that sounds like it would help with any leaks. its a manual. records dont list a cluth replacement (past 62k).
  • bumpitnahoebumpitnahoe Member Posts: 3
    im in NC...also, other than not having leather the car is fully loaded, power windows, power door locks, power moonroof, etc.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    being a GS, I assumed it was loaded, except for the leather in '91.

    Distributor leaks are common, but your distributor was replaced, so that would cure that. Depending on driving style of the previous owner, the clutch may be worn - that will be obvious when you drive it.

    Be aware that a Maaco paint job isn't going to last very long. The engine and the trans on these cars are extremly durable, so that is a point in its favor. It sounds like it might be overdue for a tune-up, and I would be curious what its compression numbers are - do you have smog check in that state?

    Anyway, that is a huge work-up for a $2000 car. Check for the engine and hatch leaks, stop it and start it up a couple of times, and then go on faith if you enjoy the drive! :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • pkcheng55pkcheng55 Member Posts: 2
    We're trying to sell our 2001 Acura Integra LS coupe with Auto. It's light blue and has only 17,500 miles. Very clean, non-Smoker car and it is in very good shape except for a few of dings and a little scratch in back bumper. I’m in San Francisco, California 94112.

    We never buy or sell a car in private party before. Is $13900 asking price too much?
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    Scroll back to the top of this page and click on the "used car" tab. Then follow the instructions to get Edmunds pricing on your car. Good luck on making a quick sale.
  • algae1algae1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I'm a newbie to this forum. My daughter is looking at buying her first car which is a '92 Integra. It has 174,000 Km (108,000 miles) on it and is in good shape inside and out.
    I have been a Nissan owner for the past 10 years and am wondering if the timing belt is as much of an issue with the Integra as it is for the Nissans? Also what are the known issues I should look for with this car?
    Thanks very much for any advice.
    Gary
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    t-belt is very important on these cars - it is an interference engine (instant self-destructo if it breaks while driving) - make sure it has been done and if there is doubt, do it.

    Electrical accessories at the rear end are an issue, as is water coming in around the hatch door or through the taillights. Pull out the spare tire and check for evidence (staining etc) of standing water in the well it sits in. Make sure all the rear lights work as well as the wiper. Check all the HVAC controls up front as well. Make sure the buttons are working to shift the airflow between the dash, the floor, and the windshield.

    Beyond that, nothing major. Make sure to check for bad CV joints at the front (crank the wheel all the way over in a parking lot and accelerate slowly while listening closely to the front for the sound of pebbles rattling in a can; then repeat with the wheel cranked all the way the other way). Worn spark plug wires and old distributor caps have a significant impact on the way these cars drive - eyeball those.

    Plus, of course, all the usual stuff you check out on any used car.

    Good luck! Manual or automatic?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • scentscent Member Posts: 5
    Help looking at a Integra LS with 35500 miles 13,500 or Brand new Honda Civic VP for 12750. Can't decide what to get... go new and get that new car smell or go used with all the toys but no leather. Thanks
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    these cars are very different in their performance. The VP is the 117 hp base engine, with the high profile tires on 14s (or are they all 15s now, I forget?).

    The Acura is on wider, lower-profile tires (rims are 15s) with much more anti-sway control and better suspension, significantly more power, 4-wheel discs for braking, a moonroof, the list goes on and on. For me, no way is the new car smell going to compensate for losing all that. Buy a can of it at the auto parts store and spray it in that Integra, would be my advice.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jarrardjarrard Member Posts: 1
    hello acura owners,

    I have a 96 LS Integra w/1500,000. I was just told that I have a faulty 4th valve. The other 3 work fine. One shop says I should have the entire top half of the engine replaced for $2100. Problem is I just had that done about a year ago. Another shop says that i can just have the one valve and gasket replaced for about $1000. My question is is this even worth the money? I like my car and not having a note but I want to know can 1 valve be fixed or is that a entire valve job issue? Thanks for all your help and advice
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    if you really have 1.5 million miles, then I would call it money well spent and move on to a new car! :-)

    If OTOH it has 150K miles, which I suspect is the case, I would spend the money to fix it if everything else is in good order and well-maintained.

    Having said that, the major expense of replacing a valve is taking the head off, machining the head, and putting it back on. NO WAY do you pay to have all that done and then only replace the one valve. You replace all the valves - the individual parts are not a huge part of this cost. The labor is. I would think you could go halfway between those two estimates for a good and comprehensive valve job - have them put on a new timing belt and water pump at the same time as the extra cost is only for the parts. It is not necessarily a good idea to replace the whole head, which is what the $2100 estimate is, I suspect. The head is likely still good.

    One other reason to replace all the exhaust valves (it is most likely an exhaust valve that has burnt out - have you asked them which valve it is?) is that they are all the same - if this one has failed now, it is likely that more of them are near the point of failing.

    If it is in decent shape, go for the repair. Especially if it is a manual transmission. These cars go a long way, my old '88 was at 250K+ when I sold it, and I would rather have a paid-for Integra than my $15,000-owing RSX!

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • fedfed Member Posts: 2
    have a 2001 type r to sell soon, but can't get any idea of a decent asking price -- any help will be greatly appreciated
  • mher916mher916 Member Posts: 6
    I guess it kind of depends if its still stock? Is it souped up or been raced? From what I've heard from my boyfriend who also has a Type R, I think a decent price for a stock type R would be around $16,000 to $17,500. (Private party) I know most people prefer it being stock though. What area are you in? I know a friend of mine is looking to buy a Type R right now.
  • mher916mher916 Member Posts: 6
    being an Intgra owner and Civic owner, I would prefer the Integra. The vehicle overall is stronger...feels better when driving...and depreciate slower. I chose a used 99 Integra GSR two years ago for $15,000 over a 2000 Civic Si...and its soo worth it. No regrets at all. Never had a problem with my car.
  • adamssjadamssj Member Posts: 11
    Im looking to buy my first car and ive wanted an integra for awhile and I finally have 4k saved and found this deal.

     

    94 Integra GSR two door hatch

    91,000 miles SAYS in excellent condition, but it has shortshifter and racing cluth all going for $$$4,000 bucks, is that worth it???? Or is there most likely something wrong with it?

     

    Last question being, is there a certain year/model integra that comes with a regular VTECH engine If I cant afford a decent GSR?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    are the VTECs in the Integra line. When you say racing clutch, do you actually mean a RACING clutch? If so, I would avoid it - that is no casual mod, and there are going to be GSRs out there that haven't been raced. And in my area, $4000 would be a downright steal for an eleven year old GSR with 91K. Would make me suspicious.

     

    If you can't get into an Integra in your price range, you could always get a Civic EX - also has VTEC (albeit lower powered) and lots of options for increasing power aftermarket.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • adamssjadamssj Member Posts: 11
    Hmmm, yeah thats what I figured. No in the descrip it says it has a "racing clutch" which means the guy has probably raced the hell out of it. Look suspicious to me.

     

    But with between 4 and 5,000 bucks I can still find a decent 2 door LS 94 or above right? Ive heard its okay if the car has up to 150,000 miles on it because they last forever if driven decently, dunno how true that is. But yeahhh I was hoping to find a GSR out there if possible but I guess you havta spend a little bit more than 5k :(
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    my '88 LS went 250K before I sold it - that guy is still driving it. They are fantastic in terms of lasting power - I wouldn't be worried about miles provided the seller can prove it has been decently maintained. I would expect you to be able to get into an LS from '94/95 for $4000, provided it has the usual kind of miles for that age - say 120K-150K. That is in my area - you may be able to do better in other parts of the country.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • adamssjadamssj Member Posts: 11
    Right on, so as long as the owner seems to have driven the car pretty decently, the miles shouldnt matter too much..right on. I guess my last questions would be..

     

    When I go to buy or look at a private partys car, there anything I should look for in particular, or anything I should watch out for? I dont wunna buy a car and then havta turn around and spend money on fixing it right away. Ive heard you should make sure the water pumps and timing belts are working good and not too old. But thats all ive heard.

     

    Ohhhh and, which car is faster STOCK, A civic EX (because of the VTECH engine) or a STOCK integra LS? And thanx for you replys man, yur helpin me alot, I dont want my first car to be a melon :(
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    the LS would have the edge, just barely. The EX is fun to push hard when the VTEC kicks in, though. And I was just thinking that you will be able to get more car at the money going with the Civic - it will be newer with less miles.

     

    Beginning in '94, the Integra LS got 140 hp out of a 1.8, but weighed about 300 pounds more than the Civic, which made about 125 hp (IIRC) out of a 1.6. Of course, in the Civic, the last 15 of those horsepower were only available once the VTEC kicked in, which happened at some very high rpm like 5000+.

     

    On Integras and Civics, you have to make sure the timing belt was done, and the water pump with it. That should be within the last 60K miles - the belt is due every 60. Next, look in the trunk/under the hatch. Pull up the cover where the spare sits - is there any water in there? Is there staining indicating there has been water leaking in there in the past? Those are common problems - also check the taillights for proper operation and make sure they don't have sitting water in them. NEXT, check out those CV joints - get in a parking lot, crank the wheel all the way over and drive slowly in a circle, listen for any sounds (no sound is a good sound). Then crank the wheel the other way and do it again. Get under there and eyeball the CV boots - are they cracked or broken? CVs and boots are common problem areas too. NEXT, on the Integra, punch the button for each and every airflow direction on the dash HVAC - do they all work? Does the fan work at all speeds? You need to check the electronics carefully on old Hondas to make sure eveything is still working - wipers, lights, stuff like that. Finally, if it were me, I would avoid an Integra this old in any dark color - the black ones and to a lesser extent the dark green ones have had early problems with paint fade or wear. Does the clearcoat look intact on all the horizontal surfaces?

     

    Hondas are fantastic, fun cars that can go a really long way, but they are also high maintenance as they get beyond the 10 year/150K point.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • adamssjadamssj Member Posts: 11
    Nice, Ill definitely take note of all that. Thanx a lot for the info. So it looks like im either going after an integra LS or GS or possibly a GSR if I can get some extra money.

     

     Now say I buy an integra LS, since it doesnt have a VTECH engine in it ; If I go ahead and slap on a decent exhaust system and an AEM cold air intake, that would definitely put it up over a stock civic EX right? I like both cars, but I want an integra a lot more so im trying to make the best out of whatever one I get since I found out none of them come with regular vtech engines.

     

    And for future mods, do you have any suggestions as far as exhaust intake (headers if needed?)or anything else?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    who mod their cars and tell me their stories, but I personally keep my cars stock, so I can't give you a lot of specifics. But I would say generally speaking, just the exhaust and the CAI should net you 5-10 hp at the wheels, depending on what you choose to install, and yes, that would give you the edge over the Civic, definitely. And the Integra is much more of a driver's car than the Civic all the time.

     

    BTW, at that vintage, the GS was really just an LS with leather and alloys, and some of the LS's even had alloys. I would go with the LS unless you really love leather, because I have found that the leather in these cars doesn't age all that well unless it is well taken care of. And who takes the time to properly condition and maintain leather seats? Not most folks.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • adamssjadamssj Member Posts: 11
    Right on, well I guess all I have to do now is wait another month or 2 to save some more money and then go car shopping! Thanx for all yur help man I appreciate it. I'm definitely gonna be prepared when I go to inspect the car im gonna buy lol. Oh and about what you said earlier about the intagras not having the VTECH engines. You said none of the integras come with VTECH engines but that they also are stock 140 hp? Thats pretty sweet, thats alot more HP than a civic EX before their VTECH kicks in high RPMS. Even tho it does way more thats still more power. Good stuff. So its basically safe to say that an integra is just a higher class civic with a little more power? Ohhhh and if ever in the future I were to look into purchasing a GSR engine for the car, you know how much the engine itself would cost or a place I could find out? And if that ever did happen, should a new tranny be purchased as well? Or do the trannys usually last a long time? God I love how much I dont know..lol sorry for the million questions.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    "So its basically safe to say that an integra is just a higher class civic with a little more power?"

     

    That's a pretty good characterization, except for the specialty models like the type-R. Not a whole lot of Civic in that one! :-P

     

    The suspension in most of the years has been noticeably better than the Civic's. But the interiors were nothing that great most of the time - just Civic class with better seats. The powertrain was usually Civic + 10%, and in that case the power increase in the base Integra was usually offset by its weight increase over the Civic. Of course, the intro of the GSR VTEC engines changed all that, and then finally with the advent of the RSX, the base integra has significantly more power than the Civic EX for the first time ever.

     

    As to the cost of a GSR engine, well that would vary a ton. Used, new, rebuilt, junkyard motor, what? I am sure it would vary from one to several thousand dollars.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • j30j30 Member Posts: 30
    I have a 94 LS with 55,000 and the car has been a great run around for my wife. But I am getting a little concerned about the timing belt,

    the manual says 6 years or 90,000.

      

    So, should I spend the money and get it done or wait a few more years when we get closer to 90k? Just how important is the age factor? The car has never left Florida and looks almost showroom fresh so the salt and snow of the great north

    isn't getting in anything...

     

    On a side note something finally broke on the car, we had to replace the brake master cylinder because of a leak and the main controller

    for the ABS is bad and they want $2250 to fix, so no more ABS...

    When they had it in they wanted to do the timing belt then but I decided to wait on it. On a plus I can't believe they actually gave us a free Enterprise rental for three days when they had the car, we have had the car for 11 years! Acura sure takes care of it's customers.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    if it were me I am sure I would wait out the mileage on a timing belt. However, it should be easy enough to pull back the timing cover and just check to see if the belt is showing signs of age, which would be visible things like cracking. If you don't know how to do this, I am sure your favorite mechanic would do it for just a few dollars.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • adamssjadamssj Member Posts: 11
    It looks like overall im going with an Acura Integra LS 2 door like I was saying before. I was thinking about going after a GSR because I've seen alot on autotrader between 94 - 96 with 150k miles going for about 5500 bucks. But I think I would be safer reliability and lasting wise going with a regular LS. Plus im sure itll go plenty fast for my liking. By budget is about 5k at high tho, you have any more input on what I should do there? And 4-5k is enough to buy a decent LS around 1995 - 1997 year model right?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaMember Posts: 12,555
    you wouldn't get a '97 in my area for $5000. A '95, maybe. Look for a '95 with lower miles (130K, say) at that price - a decent one should turn up.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

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